So I'm looking into the vast myriad of options and prices of building a built to order Wrangler. I've been staring at Jeep.com for about 3 days trying to make head and tails out of the best model for the money. I am having such a hard time comparing apples to apples.
My budget is leaning toward the shallow end of the Jeep pool, but AC is a must (my wifeboss says so), along with a couple of other things like 3.73 axle for towing.
To level my playing field, I threw a spreadsheet together so I can compare models across the board, with pricing. So taking the first 3 models and making them all the same (17" rims, A/C, 3.73, hard top, etc) I came to the following conclusion:
The very base model came to $29040, the S model was $29650, and the Willys was $30980. This doesnt include dealer or TTL....so what have I missed here? Why does it seem that I can spec a base model to make a Willy's for $1940 cheaper? Seems to be quite a large amount to pay for the name. Surely I've done something wrong, right?
Has anyone found the same thing? No one's ever accused me of being a genius, but am I THAT dumb?
Read the details in each model standard equipment. If you spent 3 days (or just 3 hours) researching and analyzing wrangler models and options online - you know more about it than the salesman.
Jeep site is terrible. You go through a process only to find there is no provision to order what you spent choosing. Dealers only what they have on the lot or have coming down the pike
Willys comes with rock rails, bfg's mud terrains w/black rims, rubicon shocks and stickers and a few other things (floor mats, tail light guards maybe?). I'm not completely familiar with the nitty gritty details of each model.
I believe there are difference between models that you are not considering. The sport S has power windows and locks the sport does not. What did you add to the sport to make it almost the same price?
The build tool can give some ideas of differences between models. I used the compare models tool to see which models had which options standard and available.
After all of that I found a sales manager at a dealership who was willing to go through his build options with me. Some colors and options were not available to dealers that were in the jeep.com build tool. That being said he had options that jeep.con did not.
Find a good dealer or drive to Western NC and work with the guy that I did.
Personally I don't think all those intermediate models are a very good value. Get a sport or sport S and build it up, or get a Rubicon, just my 2 cents.
...
The very base model came to $29040, the S model was $29650, and the Willys was $30980. This doesnt include dealer or TTL....so what have I missed here? Why does it seem that I can spec a base model to make a Willy's for $1940 cheaper? Seems to be quite a large amount to pay for the name. Surely I've done something wrong, right?...
Don't know if you have seen this one not, but on the Wrangler home page there is a link that lets you compare the different trim packages side by side. Lower, right, click the "Compare Models" button and they show you all of them with their standard features and options available in columns. You can also scroll, right, to the more expensive models and compare them side-by-side in columns.... Hopefully this link will work.. To see more detailed info in each category, click the "+" sign on the left at the beginning of each section.
It would be great to have one source with a spread sheet (chart) that would literally list every Jeep Wrangler model and what the options are on each. I realize that would be a lot of information but it surely would be helpful to a lot of folks.
Click the link in post #9. Isn't that what you're looking for? Or as close as is available? You can scroll from the least expensive to the left, to the most expensive to the right.
I've had problems with their configurator the past few days in that some options just don't work when clicked on.
I kept clicking on the auto trans option for one of the models, and it said it had to change the gear ratio to apply it. I hit Yes, but it would never work. It stayed stuck on the manual trans. Tried it with both Firefox and Chrome browsers on two different computers, same problem.
When I did the same option choice for other Wrangler models, it would work just fine.
Not sure what's going on, but I wish they'd fix it. I'm experimenting with a lot of different builds as I get ready to order something this week.
Chrysler is horrible on the configuration sites. They JUST added a feature to show when wheels are changed. Also, last I looked the transmission photos are front drive transaxles and the 3.6 engine isn't the JK version. So poorly designed.
The Willys is going to be noisier and stiffer on the road than either of the sports because of the mud terrain tires and suspension. It will be better off road because of those same things.
Other than that, which model is better looking to you?
Sorry for the late reply. I guess I'm narrowing it down. I was originally after the Wrangler, but now heading for the Unlimited. I figure it's going to be a fun, touring vehicle for the family, so need more space (our 5 and 6 year old girls know how to pack lots of stuff).
I think the Willy's with the offroad capability is where I want to head. Seems the dealers don't order many Willys, so I guess I'll have to pay closer to retail than I'd wanted.
Anyone recommend a dealer in Missouri? It's not a big state, I can travel.
When I was ordering my Hard Rock I noticed on the model comparison that the Hard Rock does not come with the 115V outlet according to the chart but the stardard Rubicon does. The website is wrong, my Hard Rock has it.
The wheels and tires on the Willys are worth the price of admission vs. a Sport.
Then throw in the LSD, rock rails, and stickers.
Unless you're doing a build where you throw all of that out, the Willys is an excellent package.
+1 for the Willy's. It had the off-road upgrades I wanted without going full Rubicon and paying for options I didn't want. It was the perfect package for me who didn't want a base sport, doesn't like the Sahara, and didn't want to pay for a Rubi.
Thanks Mike, you make a good point. If I could order exactly what I wanted, I'd be in the high $40s; not an option. Is it true that a 'lot' of people buy the base model so they can do all their own customizing and add on? A dealer told me that about 6 weeks ago. Although I like the idea of that, sometimes it's nice to have everything done before you buy it.
Figure out exactly the options that you want, look at the MSRP, deduct ~10%. Then pick up the phone and call Erica Ramsey at Koons Tysons Corner (Vienna, VA), and mention WranglerForum to get 5% (Rubicon and I think 75th Anniv. models) or 7% (All other Models) off the Invoice. If they can't find exactly what you want, you're going to have to do a little research on your own. I'll be happy to help if you like, but know going in that your must-have items may be accompanied by "why would I want that?" items in the end.
I got my Rubi last year loaded for about 9% under msrp . Worked out to be just over 1% under dealer invoice. I could have fought more over the 1100 holdback but I was happy
Buy the Jeep you want, within your budget. Don't just settle for what dealers around you have in stock. One of the advantages to a Jeep compared to imports is how easy it is to order exactly what you want. The wife and I were about to do that but we managed to find a Jeep on a lot just over an hour away that was exactly what she wanted. Had that not happened we would have ordered one. The price you pay should not be affected by you ordering it vs. picking one on the dealer lot. The only drawback to ordering a Jeep is availability, at times certain colors and / or versions are not in production. If we had not found the exact Jeep the wife wanted we would of had to order one and the color she really wanted (Purple) was not in production so we were waiting for the next best color (Hyper Green) to hit production.
You should be able to get one for between 5% and 10% below retail easy, more is possible but the more expensive ones tend to offer a bigger discount.
Pick up a brochure, or print out the full description from each model you're looking at. Then highlight the differences. I never had a problem with the build and price. In the end, you just need the package and a few options to tell the dealer what to order. Then use the MSRP as a check sum to verify they got it right. I'm not the sort of person who will pay for options that I don't want, so I make sure I know exactly what I want before I order. I also like to do my own work on my vehicles, so many times you can find a better aftermarket option and add it later. I saved a few grand on my Jeep by skipping some options that I didn't need, and that includes buying aftermarket stuff.
You definitely missed some options to get a base up to a Willy's level and even with the available options the Willys will have more features.
base vs willys
3.21 v 3.73
O v Trac-Lok
N/A v Performance Suspension
? v All weather Slush Mats
? v Chrome / Leather-Wrapped Shift Knob
? v EVIC
? v Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
? v 1-year Sirius
O v Connectivity Group
O v Remote USB Port
N/A v UConnect Voice Command w/ Bluetooth
16"x7.0" steel v 17"x7.5" high gloss
Goodyear v BFGoodrich
N/A v Deep Tint Sunscreen Windows
N/A v Willys Hood Decal
N/A v Willys Wheeler Grille
Another thing to consider is getting what you want out the door because of the warranty. Granted FCA is 3y/36k but still, you don't want to void the warranty since you threw on a lift right when you got it home.
Don't forget, Willys vs Willys W, which has the power convenience group. Not an issue with a 2door but rolling down the back windows sucks.
Also see about pricing out exactly what you want through TrueCar or even a credit union buying programs. I know USAA uses TrueCar. If you get a quote from that you should be able to order what you want for that price at a dealer. Might take 6-8 weeks but you get what you want and don't pay for extra stuff you don't.
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