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Old 07-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #91
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Quote:
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Check this out

Don't laugh, it works great

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/blog/i...-wheel-toe-in/
That's interesting. I'll have to try that next time I'm messing around under there.

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Old 07-27-2012, 12:38 AM   #92
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That's interesting. I'll have to try that next time I'm messing around under there.
I've used thumb tacks and ran a tape measure between em, front and back.
Also this method. Shooting for 1/8-1/4 this was w/ stock 32's.

These were the numbers at the time
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:40 PM   #93
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Second attempt at align,ent and got the same excuse. We don't want to scratch the wheels. Damn you Sears and Midas! Lol

I checked my springs and I have 16 up front and 58 in the back. I was thinking about swapping the springs for a higher rate, 19 front and 60 rear. Also I would like to add Bilstein 5100 to account for the Teraflex leveling kit. I'm hoping this will improve the ride by dampening body motions better than what I have. Also the shocks may help with the front diving when braking. And of course an alignment.

What do you guys think? Will the springs I want to instal make a noticeable difference?
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:42 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by MudderNuker View Post
Second attempt at align,ent and got the same excuse. We don't want to scratch the wheels. Damn you Sears and Midas! Lol

I checked my springs and I have 16 up front and 58 in the back. I was thinking about swapping the springs for a higher rate, 19 front and 60 rear. Also I would like to add Bilstein 5100 to account for the Teraflex leveling kit. I'm hoping this will improve the ride by dampening body motions better than what I have. Also the shocks may help with the front diving when braking. And of course an alignment.

What do you guys think? Will the springs I want to instal make a noticeable difference?
You need to find a real alignment shop. I went to Town Fair Tire and they gave me the same BS. I later found a place that only does alignments and when I brought up the wheel issue they laughed. A real shop will have the proper tools to not scratch you rims and set you up.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:53 AM   #95
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You need to find a real alignment shop. I went to Town Fair Tire and they gave me the same BS. I later found a place that only does alignments and when I brought up the wheel issue they laughed. A real shop will have the proper tools to not scratch you rims and set you up.

x2...sears and midas are not where u wanna go...
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:59 AM   #96
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I said"so what, scratch em" still did not do it
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:35 AM   #97
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The lift the big tires look great, But if your driveing 70 miles a day to work not very wise. I drive alot for work and have 18" HT tires witch drives fine for what i have to do. I bought a cherokee and fixed it up for the trail and city fun.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:25 PM   #98
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Sports Cars vs JK's

My 2012 JKU rides and handles great with a TF leveling kit, stock wheels and new Cooper STT 285 70 17. Tracks straight, doesn't wonder. Can't be happier.

I think many of the problems are tire related. My experiences with sports cars, muscle cars and performance sedans backs that up.

Runs rings around my 2010 engine wise but about the same exact handling and ride.

Like everyone says these aren't a Beemer but they are now closer to a sport car machine than a jeep of old especially with the 6 speed.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:21 AM   #99
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My bone stock Wrangler 2-door has very poor steering and handling. I agree with the OP. If you sneeze you're in the other lane. I doubt there's much to be done about it - it's just a byproduct of the short wheelbase and high center of gravity. The solid axle suspension doensn't help either. Compared with any other car or truck the 2-door Wrangler is going to come out last for stuff like emergency lane change, etc.

Chrysler and Harley Davidson have a similar problem. Their history and tradition determine their engineering. Most of the customers of both companies prefer vehicles that are primitive compared to what could be accomplished if you gave the engineers a clean sheet of paper to work with. It's hard to go modern if the customers want old school.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:02 PM   #100
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My bone stock Wrangler 2-door has very poor steering and handling. I agree with the OP. If you sneeze you're in the other lane. I doubt there's much to be done about it - it's just a byproduct of the short wheelbase and high center of gravity. The solid axle suspension doensn't help either. Compared with any other car or truck the 2-door Wrangler is going to come out last for stuff like emergency lane change, etc.

Chrysler and Harley Davidson have a similar problem. Their history and tradition determine their engineering. Most of the customers of both companies prefer vehicles that are primitive compared to what could be accomplished if you gave the engineers a clean sheet of paper to work with. It's hard to go modern if the customers want old school.
-----------
Although you have a point about the core group of buyers, both companies do have modern choices. The unlimited handles well and Harley makes a modern water cooled sport cruising bike called the V-rod. I own each.

Wranglers have modern devices like Uconnect, ABS, hill assist, towing antisway, side air bags etc. Harley put ABS, fuel injection, cylinder shut off, auto turn signal cancellation, LED lights, among other new tech on their motorcycles. You can have the best of old & new if you want.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:59 PM   #101
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[QUOTE=Dale_K;2642834]My bone stock Wrangler 2-door has very poor steering and handling. I agree with the OP. If you sneeze you're in the other lane. I doubt there's much to be done about it - it's just a byproduct of the short wheelbase and high center of gravity.
My 2-door WAS this way untill I installed adjustable LCA`s. Caster is now at +5. Handling is great. LOWER CONTROL ARMS LOWER CONTROL ARMS LOWER CONTROL ARMS
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #102
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You forget to mention LCA's
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #103
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Lower control arms lower control arms lower control arms
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:03 PM   #104
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adjustable lower control arms
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:04 PM   #105
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sigh....our advice falls on deaf ears..or should i say blind eyes
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:08 PM   #106
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Adj uppers ..... Shorter
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:33 PM   #107
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:26 AM   #108
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Jeep handling and driving straight

hi guys

im new to the form and i am having the same problum with my 2008 rubicon unlimited i have had 5 alinments and still the same thing it didnt start till after the lift was put on i had a 4" rugged ridge lift put on then a drop pitman arm and jks track bars front and back. then i put on 2 steering shocks and still is all over the road and pulls to the right when you let off the gas at high speeds. i have had it alined 5 times and its getting old really fast i had an o7 jk and it drove great have any ideas it drives like an old dodge truck please help thanks
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:40 AM   #109
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Say whaaat??? Even my old '95 YJ was fine at highway speeds....noisy as h#&& with no carpet and usually no side windows, but stable. My new '12 JK is steady as a rock on the interstate at 70 mph with the cruise control set. the radio blasting jazz, and the A/C keeping me comfy in this blankety-blank 100 degree heat.
My YJ was fine at highway speeds too, as long as my highway speed was about 50mph. After that it was exciting (and, yes, hella loud!) It was never the handling though- just not fast enough to outrun the semi trucks.

The TJ was a great improvement in both guts and handling on highway.

I feel that the JK is even better by a fair stretch. I will say though that when I took a JK for my first test drive, one of the reasons I decided to go with the JK rather than another TJ was that I was surprised how much it still felt like a Jeep and not completely tamed yet.

I would definitely have the Jeep gone over to at least make sure you are getting a fair evaluation of the platform. You might also try test driving a few others.

One question to the Rubicon owners out there- I know that I originally (TJ and JK) wanted a Rubi for all of the capabilities but when faced with the cold hard truth about the many thousands of miles of highway between me and Moab....I had just come to the conclusion (via hearsay and reviews) that the highway manners of a Rubicon wasn't going to be worth the trade off for me. (Personal choice obviously). Is it possible that the OP might take a better liking to a Sport or Sahara?
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #110
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I shouldn't post because this is going on and on. But IMO the handling is normal. Having driven many solid front axle Superduty's, the Wrangler drives and drifts around just like a mini F350. I think it's just the nature of the beast.

Comparing to an X3 with IFS, sport suspension, and sport touring tires, I'd expect it to handle great on public roads (and suck off road.)
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:06 PM   #111
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I shouldn't post because this is going on and on. But IMO the handling is normal. Having driven many solid front axle Superduty's, the Wrangler drives and drifts around just like a mini F350. I think it's just the nature of the beast.

Comparing to an X3 with IFS, sport suspension, and sport touring tires, I'd expect it to handle great on public roads (and suck off road.)
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:38 PM   #112
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Maybe I was one of the lucky one's, but my 2012 JKU Sahara (with stock rubi wheels & tires) is a pretty smooth ride - much better than I ever expected in a Jeep, especially after reading forums like this. I've had several cars in the past, including M3's, and was prepared for the worst when I drove the Jeep - but to my surprise, it tracks straight and even corners fairly well (as long as you don't hit a large bump mid-turn). Actually I prefer the ride to my M3's, especially when it comes to potholes and road bumps - hardly feel them in the Jeep - and I'm running all 4 wheels at 40psi. Of course it's loud with those tires, but nothing you can do about that. Check your alignment and look for bent or warped rims, and consider swapping out your tires. Ride quality should NOT be an issue with the new JK/JKUs as long as you're running reasonably stock suspension - and don't let others tell you any different.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #113
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If you do go back to BMW, go for a 3-series "xi" wagon. An all around more capable vehicle than the X-series unless you're wed to the idea of sitting higher off the ground for really no reason at all. =)
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:22 PM   #114
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It's a Jeep.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:30 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by MudderNuker View Post
Hi all,

I Wanted to ask the experts here in a last attempt to salvage what I call a love hate relationship.

I love how my 2012 Jeep JKU Sahara looks, the features and capabilities.

I absolutely HATE how it drives.

This thing is hard to drive in a straight line without constant steering input/correction. This wandering can be exhausting on a long trip. I traded a BMW X3 for the Jeep and now I'm looking to trade the Jeep for an X1.

I know it's a Jeep and they are different but what I can't understand is how Jeep sells a vehicle that is really not meant for highway driving at normal Hwy speeds. Sometimes, in windy conditions it even feels scary to drive. God forbid you drive with one hand only while holding your coffee or changing the tunes. Before you know it you are on the other lane or hitting the rumble strips.

The Jeep has a Teraflex 2" budget boost, and 33" tires.

What can I do to improve the handling/steering of this beast? Steering dampers? Magic? Voodoo? Is it even possible?

Thanks for your input.

I'm sure I will get some people telling me it's a Jeep or is a Jeep thing or just live with it because it is a Jeep, please don't.

I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem, most if not all know what I'm talking about. Don't be shy, its ok, you too call vent about the poor handling.

My girlfriend refuses to drive this thing as she thinks it is unsafe.

Please be kind with your replies.

Go back to stock. I have the stock wheels, and have no issues. Long trips on the HWY= very comfy. I am also coming from a full size gmc truck.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:53 PM   #116
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adjustable lower control arms
Yeah, that!
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:53 PM   #117
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I'm having the same issue, 4 alignments and still a no go. I've been told the tires are bad at 15k miles. Been rotated twice since new. I'm thinking stock SRA's were bad with radial pull (what discount tire called it). The longer I drive on them, the worse it gets.

When driving on the interstate and let go of wheel now, it just drives right on over to right. Alignment is within spec and was told if anything my thrust angle would push me to the left. Only other adjustment I can make is adj ball joints to mess with caster.

I wanted to nail this down before I do oversize tires/wheels. Fighting with Goodyear to get new factory tires, but they won't cover a full set at this point. So my options are, keep take offs and put new set on, then see if problem goes away. If it doesn't, it's a factory issue and I get to try and prove this with jeep. It's tiring driving for 3+ hours and holding the wheel constantly to the left.

Might look for a cheap set of factory tires only just to see what happens. It's becoming my biggest annoyance right now.
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:36 AM   #118
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I'm having the same issue, 4 alignments and still a no go. I've been told the tires are bad at 15k miles. Been rotated twice since new. I'm thinking stock SRA's were bad with radial pull (what discount tire called it). The longer I drive on them, the worse it gets.

When driving on the interstate and let go of wheel now, it just drives right on over to right. Alignment is within spec and was told if anything my thrust angle would push me to the left. Only other adjustment I can make is adj ball joints to mess with caster.

I wanted to nail this down before I do oversize tires/wheels. Fighting with Goodyear to get new factory tires, but they won't cover a full set at this point. So my options are, keep take offs and put new set on, then see if problem goes away. If it doesn't, it's a factory issue and I get to try and prove this with jeep. It's tiring driving for 3+ hours and holding the wheel constantly to the left.

Might look for a cheap set of factory tires only just to see what happens. It's becoming my biggest annoyance right now.
If it's a possible warranty issue the dealership should put a set of tires from another jeep on to rule that out. I would ask or uh tell them to do that.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:03 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BacaraJKU View Post
I'm having the same issue, 4 alignments and still a no go. I've been told the tires are bad at 15k miles. Been rotated twice since new. I'm thinking stock SRA's were bad with radial pull (what discount tire called it). The longer I drive on them, the worse it gets.

When driving on the interstate and let go of wheel now, it just drives right on over to right. Alignment is within spec and was told if anything my thrust angle would push me to the left. Only other adjustment I can make is adj ball joints to mess with caster.

I wanted to nail this down before I do oversize tires/wheels. Fighting with Goodyear to get new factory tires, but they won't cover a full set at this point. So my options are, keep take offs and put new set on, then see if problem goes away. If it doesn't, it's a factory issue and I get to try and prove this with jeep. It's tiring driving for 3+ hours and holding the wheel constantly to the left.

Might look for a cheap set of factory tires only just to see what happens. It's becoming my biggest annoyance right now.
Rotate tires front to back or swap tires with a friend. This should rule out the tires.

"Adjustable" ball joints are used to correct camber that's out of spec.

Stock toe in and steer straight are the only adjustments.

Do you know your camber/caster specs ?

Do you have any modifications ? Some manufactures have the lengths of their lower CA's longer on the right. This is to keep the jeep from following road crown.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:22 AM   #120
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go with 32 lbs in the left front and 34 in the right front. Make sure toe in is correct, if you want to keep the lift, get the AEV Geometry correction brackets. If these measures fail, see the multiple posts about LCA's

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