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Old 01-29-2014, 03:25 PM   #1
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Jk sport 2011

2.5" lift spacer lift w/shock extension skyjacker Steering stabilizer. when I go about 40-60 and hit a bump the jeep and the wheel shakes until I stop (very bad shake) it has 42k and is a auto. Does any body have any ideas. Also it still has the stock 32" tires any help will be nice lol I did Check the track bar bolt it looked fine

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Old 01-29-2014, 03:28 PM   #2
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It's the death wobble... here's a link to correct it

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Old 01-29-2014, 03:47 PM   #3
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Now you think that's the problem even with the stock track bar I checked the bolt it doesn't really seem lose mybee a little bit but not much at all
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:00 PM   #4
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I answered your question back in the Technical section!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djscopa View Post
Now you think that's the problem even with the stock track bar I checked the bolt it doesn't really seem lose mybee a little bit but not much at all

You need to have some turn the sterring wheel while you watch the TB bolts.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:19 PM   #6
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Old dogger I know you did I posed this before I got the response. I'm going to try a 9/16" bolt
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Djscopa View Post
Old dogger I know you did I posed this before I got the response. I'm going to try a 9/16" bolt
Your probably beyond fixing this with a bigger bolt. You need to see if your bushings are bad in the Track bar.

I had my OEM ball joints go bad after 11,000 miles. This casused me to have death wobble. I am runing 35's but your ball joints could be bad also.

Also the bolt has to be torqued at 120-5 lbs. You cant just put a wrench on it and tighten.

Also is this shake include the front tires and the front feeling like its going to come off the jeep...or is it bump steer and the wheel just moves bak in forth then stops.(sawing action)
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:54 PM   #8
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The wheel shakes back and forth with vibration I have to stop or almost stop to correct it I was driving the jeep with no problems. after the lift is when this started , it stopped for a wile and came back worse and it still has the stock rims and tires
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:57 PM   #9
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The lift has exposed a weak component that is going bad/bad...either TB bushings or ball joints my guess.....
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorillahydrographics View Post
Your probably beyond fixing this with a bigger bolt. You need to see if your bushings are bad in the Track bar.
Exactly.
The track bar bolts are 125. Get yourself a good torque wrench.
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:01 PM   #11
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I prob have to just bring it to the shop and get the jeep looked at. I was just hoping its something small.
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:03 PM   #12
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Even using a 9/16 bolt and tight to 125. The holes may be worn because of the DW. There's a good chance it might return.

Have a shop weld washers on each side of the factory mounts if the holes are worn. This is the easiest fix other than replacing the mounts or installing HD brackets.

There's 4 tie rod ends. The adjustment sleeves and ball joints that should be checked, also the pitman nut, unit Bearings and control arm bushings,
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djscopa View Post
I prob have to just bring it to the shop and get the jeep looked at. I was just hoping its something small.
WAIT.... Where in MA are you ?
I'm in CT
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:07 PM   #14
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I'm in Braintree ma 10min out side of Boston
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:12 PM   #15
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I'm in Braintree ma 10min out side of Boston
Dang ... That's a trip
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:19 PM   #16
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Yes it is
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:43 PM   #17
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Endangered is in MA. I believe they are in Springfield though.
I advise you to find a reputable off road shop. Not a dealer or small hole in the wall. You'll be surprised on what some of these shops do to fix DW. Replace the Stabilizer is one
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:49 PM   #18
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Just a head's up: on my daughters JKU, she was running stock 255/17 tires and wheels at about 65K miles, (no lift) it would get the "death wobble" shake every now and again, similar to poster, when we put new tires on shakes went away and haven't been back in 10K miles.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Just a head's up: on my daughters JKU, she was running stock 255/17 tires and wheels at about 65K miles, (no lift) it would get the "death wobble" shake every now and again, similar to poster, when we put new tires on shakes went away and haven't been back in 10K miles.
Death wobble is very specific. Tires can cause vibes or a overall crappy ride but only "contribute" to DW. Not be the root cause.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:44 PM   #20
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Ok so I had the jeep in my buddy's shop this am we checked the tie rod ends, drag link ends, ball joints and the movement of the track bar bushing and bolt they all were fine. I only thing I can c is that I do not have a adjustable track bar to the the axle centered would not having that cause the DW.
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:02 PM   #21
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The first shop didn't find my DW Cause...they missed the ball joints...took it to a 4x4 shop and they found the bad ball joints....DW solved.

Not saying your buddy doesn't know his stuff...but not all shops are created equal when it comes to lifted jeeps.

Not having an adjustable TB would not cause DW from what I know.
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:26 PM   #22
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Ok I have to find a 4x4 shop near my house I live close to Boston there's not to many places that know about lifted jeeps
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:52 PM   #23
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I took my jeep to the off road shop near my house they told me I need to get a lift with adjustable arms and a track bar and get rid of the spacers. To fix the DW and that every thing is fine on my jeeps besides the caster. Has this happened to any one before
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:18 PM   #24
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I took my jeep to the off road shop near my house they told me I need to get a lift with adjustable arms and a track bar and get rid of the spacers. To fix the DW and that every thing is fine on my jeeps besides the caster. Has this happened to any one before
Not true....take it somewhere else. I have spacers on my lift. With your lift you could add an adjustable TB but I dont think its needed with 2.5" lift.

Either your bushings in your TB are bad or the next culprit I would investigate is the Upper and lower ball joints.

Trust me I went through what you are...one shop said it was my tires out of balance...then it was my caster....

None of that fixed it.

Took it to a 4x4 shop down the street and they found the ball joints to be bad...no more DW.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:20 AM   #25
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Not sure if you got your issue fixed or not, but Caster is for sure your issue. When you put the 2.5" lift on you changed the angle which your axle is rotated in relation to the ground. In order for the suspension to operate without the wobble the angle needs to be slightly forward. 96 degrees i believe. So 6 degrees forward

Think about a shopping cart. The wheels are straight up and down. No caster. And they wobble like crazy! Now think about your bike. The caster angle is positioned slightly forward and no wobble.

You can fix this a few different ways. Did I read this right and you are running stock size tires? Try larger tires. After installing a 3.5" lift on my wife's JKU I took it for a spin on stock rims and tires and got some death wobble. Put the 35s with new rims on and no more death wobble. 80000 miles later and plenty of road trips across country and no death wobble. I bought some adjustable control arms for her just in case but they're still in the box in the garage. I never needed to put them on.

IMO try bigger tires first. You know you want them anyways :-) if that doesn't fix it. Go with some adjustable control arms. Ultimately the control arms are the real fix but if you want bigger tires anyways you may give that a shot to see if your issues are remedied.

Another thing that would help but isn't a fix per se would be a dual steering stabilizer. It doesn't address the original issue of caster but may keep you from getting a wobble. Really a band aid but it helps.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:52 AM   #26
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Here's a good picture.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:57 AM   #27
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Warning! A very long write up that was found elsewhere. But very useful.

Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and without adjustable control arms, is not adjustable on this vehicle. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel return-to-center may be diminished when coming out of a turn. As you can see by the drawing, stock caster to pinion angle separation is 6*. This is represented as the pinion at 0* (zero rise) or 90* at the pinion flange face and the caster set at 96*. If we were to rotate the pinion up to stock JK position, the pinion would be tilted up 2* and caster angle now would be 94*. In alignment terms, this is known as 4* of caster. A stock JK has 4* caster and 2* of pinion up tilt for a total of 6* of separation. Most lift kits (see note 1) change the caster and pinion angle when they are installed. This is to prevent drive shaft vibration and transfer case damage. Many kits feature adjustable control arms. When a lift kit is installed, the owner frequently complains of touchy steering. As mentioned above, this is due to too little caster. This is where adjustable control arms will help. With these you can remove a little of the added pinion up tilt to help get your caster and steering a bit closer to stock. There are a number of proper, appropriate ways to measure caster angles. Only 2 can be done with a fully assembled front end housing. First, and most obvious, is with an alignment machine. Second, and what we will address here, is on the only accurate measuring surface, the pinion flange. It has been said that you can get a measurement off of the end forgings (or ‘C&rsquo but this is incorrect. End forging are cast and then machined. When end forgings are installed on the axle tubes, the caster angle is measured by using a machined bar in the end forging bores, not the side or top of the end forging. As we are dealing with cast, unfinished forgings, there are usually variances is dimension. The bored surfaces are precisely measured and their relationship to the sides or top of the end forgings may vary. On the JK, measuring the pinion angle is a simple exercise in deductive reasoning. We know there is 6* of separation. By using a simple angle finder, we can measure the pinion angle at the drive shaft flange (where the angle reads 0 on the above drawing). You’ll want to zero the angle finder first to compensate for ground that may not be level. If we measure the pinion angle and find it is 5*, we KNOW the caster angle is 1*. If the pinion angle reads 4*, we KNOW the caster is at 2*. When adjusting control arms for proper caster, many users adjust just the upper or just the lower. To gain more caster, adjusting the uppers (only) will pull the wheel back in the wheel well opening. Adjusting the lowers (only) will push the wheel forward in the opening. Ideally, adjusting both upper and lower is the best option as the wheel is placed properly in the wheel well. When adjusting for better caster angle it is crucial to keep an eye on the pinion to driveshaft angle. Remember, the lift kit companies have changed the caster to keep proper (or close) driveshaft to pinion angles. Keeping these angles in their proper location prevents driveshaft vibration and potential catastrophic transfer case failure. Any adjustment you make should be minimal. Installing a 4” lift and trying to get back to 4* of caster almost guarantees a quick failure of a driveshaft, transfer case bearing or the entire transfer case. Depending on your lift, getting back to 1 or 2* of caster may be a huge success and make a significant difference in the handling of your JK. Anytime you have adjusted control arms it is a good idea to get a 4 wheel alignment. Using control arms of equal length (side to side) is a very important to keeping the Jeep tracking straight. An alignment can make small corrections that will make a huge difference in tracking. As was mentioned earlier, the stock JK caster angle is 4*. This is a very slight angle by most standards. Many builders use 6-7* as their standard caster. Having more caster than stock is not uncommon when using an aftermarket axle housing such as a ProRock 44 Unlimited. The ProRock 44 Unlimited is designed with 4* of extra caster. This allows users to dial in their pinion correctly and retain factory caster angles (or better). With this housing you will measure as done with the stock housing but use 10* of separation. If your pinion angle is 4* you have 6* of caster. If you have 5* of pinion angle, you have 5* of caster. For more information about ProRock 44 specifications, click on the link below: http://www.dynatrac.com/pdfs/ProRock%20FAQ_revK.pdf To help understand the differences between the standard ProRock 44 and the Unlimited version, click on this link: http://www.dynatrac.com/pdfs/Choosin...using_revC.pdf — Scott Frary, Dynatrac

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