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Old 02-22-2012, 05:48 AM   #1
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JKUR 4DR UNLIMITED Auto/3.73's Deep Cherry Red Build

I bought a 2012 JK 4dr Unlimited Rubicon Auto with 3.73's

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Old 02-22-2012, 06:00 AM   #2
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Congrats.

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'11 JKU Sport - TF Leveling Kit - 16" Strike 5s on 33s
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:00 AM   #3
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Enjoy!!!
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smyln View Post
I bought a 2012 JK 4dr Unlimited Rubicon Auto with 3.73's
Where are the photos of the build? Congrats on your purchase.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:10 AM   #5
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I used to own a 2003 TJ 2dr Rubi 5spd with 4.10's on a Rubicon Express 5.5" Extreme Long Arm lift.

I left the offroading world for a couple of years and bought a Pontiac Solstice GXP and modified it for Speed.

After realizing that Jeeping was the most favorite hobbie/past time I have ever experienced I came to the conclusion that you Don't quit Jeeping because you get old, but that you get old because you quit jeeping.

That being said, I purchased my Rubicon not even realizing that Jeep might consider selling a Rubicon with anything less that 4.10 gears.

I am still uncertain which lift I am going to go with. I don't think I want to go with a tire any bigger than ACTUAL 34" but I do know I want a Dependable Lift, with Road Manners that are at least as good if not better than stock and Offroad prowess that never leaves me wanting.

I am certain that with the Unlimited's longer wheel base I am going to want to lift it at least 3.5" but considering that I want to tow my Snowmobile/Atv trailer I don't want to go much higher.

At first I was looking at Rubicon Express, (ie Mopar lift) and discovered that they are recovering from a rough period.
Next, I was kind of in limbo and then I came across a Forum Member's Jeep that had a 3.5" lift. After reading I got extremely happy because I thought here is a complete package that includes Shocks, and the High Steer Conversion and includes AEV's ProCal. Now I was totally happy with there explanation of why they used the Stock components and also was very happy that I could continue to use my stock driveshafts.

I plan on wheeling at Rausch Creek so I went on there forum. I used to wheel at RC about twice a month so I know many of the people on the forum. Someone posted about the same lift I was interested in and they were directed to a lift that my friend sells.

So my search continued on. It seemed I was hung up on the fact that I didn't want to spend more than $2K on the lift including all the ancillary parts. Well, that is easly increased to over $1K excluding the lift when you calculate 2 drive shafts and shocks. Now Include $300 for a High Steer Conversion and some other items and you are easily up to $2400 more than the original Ballpark of $1700.

After some research, I found one place that will ship the Clayton JK 3.5 Lift with free shipping for $1930.95 that is almost $200 less that MSRP.

Now, I think clayton's pricing is pretty reasonable for the other ancillary items so I am trying to see if my friend can get me a 25% Discount on everything.

What ever lift I go with I plan on installing myself.

The purpose of this thread is to show the progress on my Rubicon from Stock to Offroad/DD.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:11 AM   #6
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You are right about Rubicon Express. Mopar repackages the RE lifts and sells them as their own. RE recently went through bankruptcy and was bought out by the parent company of 4WheelParts.

Good luck with your lift decision. There is a lot of info out there to search through. There are some good lifts and some bad ones, so make sure you do your research. What worked on your TJ won't work on a JK.

Don't get the lift based on cost because you get what you pay for. Sometimes there are sales that will help offset the cost of the lift. I managed to get my lift on sale and then I saved another 25% off the installation cost. At least you will save money doing the lift install yourself.

If you don't want to go larger than an actual 34" tire, you can get by with a 2.5" lift. I am running 35x12.50R17 BFG KM2 tires that are actually 34" tires when mounted with the weight of the Jeep on them. My lift is 3.5" and is probably more than I needed for that tire. I can run 37" tires with my lift.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:57 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bo9roadking
If you don't want to go larger than an actual 34" tire, you can get by with a 2.5" lift.
Exactly what I was fixing to say. A Rock Krawler stock mod or Teraflex 2.5" either one would be great. AEV has also just released their 2.5" coil lift.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:08 AM   #8
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Right now I am heavily leaning toward

Rock Krawler JK 3.5 Max Travel System
AFE Y-pipe (This is due to the 2012 front driveshaft hitting stock Y-pipe)
5100 Bilstein Shocks
RK Bump Stops (not included in kit)
SpiderTrax 1.5" Spacers (this is to fit stock wheels with lift)
Tie Rod End from Mopar 52060049AE

I am sure eventually I will go to 35" tires but not until I am ready to regear.

If I can work out a nice deal with Curtis Tatton I may get front and rear driveshafts.

I am also looking at C2 Axle Gussetts and sleeves.

Not including drive shafts I am trying to keep the price below $3500. I am still under that number but with incidentals I am sure I am close.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:50 AM   #9
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Looks like you are well on your way for the build. It won't take long after you get the lift installed that you will want the larger tires. The stock tires will get swallowed up in the wheel openings after you see everything setting higher.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:55 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Smyln View Post
Right now I am heavily leaning toward

Rock Krawler JK 3.5 Max Travel System
AFE Y-pipe (This is due to the 2012 front driveshaft hitting stock Y-pipe)
5100 Bilstein Shocks
RK Bump Stops (not included in kit)
SpiderTrax 1.5" Spacers (this is to fit stock wheels with lift)
Tie Rod End from Mopar 52060049AE

I am sure eventually I will go to 35" tires but not until I am ready to regear.

If I can work out a nice deal with Curtis Tatton I may get front and rear driveshafts.

I am also looking at C2 Axle Gussetts and sleeves.

Not including drive shafts I am trying to keep the price below $3500. I am still under that number but with incidentals I am sure I am close.
Looks like a very nice build. The RK Stock Mod might could save you a bit of money and still allow plenty of clearance for 35s. Just a thought.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:31 PM   #11
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Today I purchased

Rock Krawler JK 3.5" Max Travel Kit

4-5100 Bilstein Shocks

J.E. REEL Front. Drive shaft

2 Pair of SpiderTrax 1.5" Wheel Spacers

Teraflex Bump Stop F/R
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:35 PM   #12
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you will like the lift.
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2012 JKUR dozer clear coat 6spd
mods.. lots of mods
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smyln View Post
Today I purchased

Rock Krawler JK 3.5" Max Travel Kit

4-5100 Bilstein Shocks

J.E. REEL Front. Drive shaft

2 Pair of SpiderTrax 1.5" Wheel Spacers

Teraflex Bump Stop F/R
Congrats. I think you will be very happy with that setup. I'm looking forward to seeing the photos of it when it is done.

Are you going to do anything with the crossover exhaust or wait to see if the new drive shaft clears?
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:54 PM   #14
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With regards to the exhaust I am going to see how the fit is with the lift. I have a local custom exhaust shop that can modify my exhaust cheaper than the afe y-pipe, and cat back.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:15 PM   #15
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I am waiting for my evo Offroad c2 gussets and lower contol arm skids and aev procal module to arrive.

I plan on beefing up the front d44 in three phases.

Phase 1) weld c2 gussets and lower control arm skids and wheel with 32" bfg's and Moab wheels.

Phase 2) weld rs-e bombshell outer sleeves and custom weld trusses and regear to 4.56 gears. Add 35" tires.

Phase 3) add cro moly shafts.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:25 PM   #16
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With regards to the exhaust I am going to see how the fit is with the lift. I have a local custom exhaust shop that can modify my exhaust cheaper than the afe y-pipe, and cat back.
Probably a good idea getting a custom exhaust done. I still need to get the exhaust bend adjusted that goes over the rear trackbar. With the RK lift moving the axle back an inch, the bend hits the trackbar if the driver's side rear tire is stuffed in the fender. I like my aFe hi-tuck cat back, but it has the bend located for the stock axle location. It would probably have been fine if I didn't move the axle.
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:14 AM   #17
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you lifted the vehicle. How did you move the axle back if the vehicle went up?

If the drive shaft stays the same wound't the rear axle move forward if the rest of the vehicle went up?
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:50 AM   #18
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you lifted the vehicle. How did you move the axle back if the vehicle went up?

If the drive shaft stays the same wound't the rear axle move forward if the rest of the vehicle went up?
If a lift hasn't been engineered to account for axle movement, it will cause the front axle to move backward and the rear axle to move forward as the Jeep gets higher. The higher the lift, the shorter your wheelbase gets and the rougher the onroad ride becomes. The shorter wheelbase also causes the tires to move closer to the pinch seam as the axles move toward each other.

The RK 3.5" Max Travel Suspension that I have and that you are installing, along with all of the RK xfactor kits, have longer rear adjustable control arms that will move the rear axle back an inch. There isn't anything special that you will have to do for it. Follow the lift installation instructions and you will be fine. The stock rear driveshaft bolts up with no problems.

I think of the longer rear control arms as a mini long arm setup for the rear without modding the control arm brackets. The nice thing is that you still retain about the same wheelbase length as the Jeep had when stock for better ride quality and you don't have to trim the pinch seam to keep the tires from hitting it. It also keeps the tires centered in the wheel well which not only looks better when viewing your Jeep from the side, it helps with clearance issues when stuffing your tires in the fenders during full articulation situations.

As an added bonus, the 3.5" Max Travel suspension has accounted for roll center correction with the rear trackbar bracket and front draglink flip kit. Your Jeep should steer and corner as well or better than stock.

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