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Old 03-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #91
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Just ordered the Racor lift yesterday and hope it arrives for the weekend. I just hope I can get my car to fit underneath when I am done the install. If not I need to come up with a different plan.

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Old 03-16-2012, 07:53 AM   #92
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My Racor lift is being delivered on Saturday, with the temps going into the 70's next week I need to get the hard top off and Trektop NX on.

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Old 03-19-2012, 01:15 PM   #93
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Mine just arrived. Looks like it is time to head over to the hardware store to get some better lag bolts.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:34 PM   #94
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Brown dropped mine off today as well. Hopefully this weekend I have time to install it. Still waiting on my ORH soft top so not in a huge hurry. I look forward to seeing the install photo's
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:33 PM   #95
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Quote:
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Brown dropped mine off today as well. Hopefully this weekend I have time to install it. Still waiting on my ORH soft top so not in a huge hurry. I look forward to seeing the install photo's
Alright, mine's here. Great thread by the way!

I'm not as mechanically minded as some of you, but I'm gonna give it a shot.

I'm planning on getting most of it started myself then asking a buddy to come over and help for the last bit.

Thanks for all the info! Pics will come of my failure or victory!
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:38 PM   #96
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Got the RACOR up, but haven't put it under more than a 25# load so far.

I am physically beat. I hung the 2x4's all by myself last night. This evening my buddy came over to help with the hanging of the actual lift... It's up, but I didn't put it under any real load today.

I still need to level it (it's ok at the lowest level, but definitely not as it goes up higher, anY ideas?) mount the pipe insulation (for padding) and finally, hang the roof from it.

Pics in the AM.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:30 PM   #97
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Here we go. I'll be trying to attach some photos of my lift in this post.

The issue with it not being level at height was pretty simple actually, the cable wasn't winding cleanly on the axle. When it overlaps it takes up faster on one side than it does on the other, causing issues. Once weight was placed on the cable, it took up cleanly.

1st
Here's my Rubicon, which just joined our family about 9 days ago


Here is a Front view of the lift with the roof under it.


Here is a view from the rear.


I attached two 8' long 2X4's to the ceiling joists to evenly spread the load. Then mounted the frame of the hoist to those boards. I have a 9.5' ceiling and it looks like I'll have more than enough clearance to park the jeep under the roof and hoist.

I added Ubolts to the frame of the lift and also ran 5 pieces of pipe insulation across the bottom of the frame (attached via zip ties). I used duct tape to cover the bottom of the pipe insulation that covered the bolts. Two 1200 lbs, 12 foot rachet straps (orange) were used to hold the hard top up to the frame, with more pipe insulation under the contact points between the hard top and the straps. Finally, a bungie was used to hold the rear window in the down position.

I won't park in the garage for the next 2 days, and even then, I'm likely to inspect the rack and top closely before I "trust" it... I'm fairly certain it'll hold up, but I probably won't sleep too soundly tonight.

Thanks again for the great thread, adding the hoist to the garage was some work, but IMO really makes having dual tops worth it.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:16 PM   #98
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lilMAC25 any chance you can post some photo's where you used the u bolts? Also any concern with the straps on the rear window seals over the long term? I have my lift in the garage and the soft top on the way so I will probably takle this next weekend.
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:14 PM   #99
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lilMAC25 any chance you can post some photo's where you used the u bolts? Also any concern with the straps on the rear window seals over the long term? I have my lift in the garage and the soft top on the way so I will probably takle this next weekend.
On the UBolts, I just drilled extra holes along the steel frame so that the bolts could be used to cross over the double and quadruple wired areas of the platform. I'll try to get a pic of that. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say I might have overdone it... probably 3 or 4 to a side would have been PLENTY. I did WAY more than that (8 or 9 a side, IIRC)


I am a bit concerned about the window seals as all the pressure is on those areas. I do however have some pipe insulation between the strap and the seal for now. Below is a shot from inside the hardtop looking at the upper left edge of the window. The photo is rotated 90 degrees to the left


My intention in the next week or so is to pick up a couple of "movers blankets" and slip one between the platform and the hardtop and one between the straps and the hardtop. I'm hoping that will keep the weight off of the back. I can't figure out a better way to connect the top and the platform for now. The hooks aren't big enough to grab the edge of the room along any point, and I'm leery about running them into the holes on the front and rear edges of the hardtop.

BTW, if the pics disappear, it's because I'm too cheap to pay for Photobucket premium. I use the free service only.
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #100
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PS, on eBay right now there is 1 new 1/2" chuck 12V Dewalt drill for around $117 del. Those usually go for around $190+tax/shipping. That's a pretty darn good deal. My old drill is/was only a 3/8" chuck, I couldn't use the drill attachment to raise and lower it when my arms were (are) tired. So, I bought one of the 2 he had up for sale.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:54 PM   #101
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thanks for the pics and explaination
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:05 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilMAC25
I am a bit concerned about the window seals as all the pressure is on those areas. I do however have some pipe insulation between the strap and the seal for now. Below is a shot from inside the hardtop looking at the upper left edge of the window. The photo is rotated 90 degrees to the left

My intention in the next week or so is to pick up a couple of "movers blankets" and slip one between the platform and the hardtop and one between the straps and the hardtop. I'm hoping that will keep the weight off of the back. I can't figure out a better way to connect the top and the platform for now. The hooks aren't big enough to grab the edge of the room along any point, and I'm leery about running them into the holes on the front and rear edges of the hardtop.

.

I have the same concerns about the rear window seals. I also put the pipe insulation around the strap to try to take some pressure off of the seals. If anyone has any better ideas let's here um
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:33 PM   #103
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I have the same concerns about the rear window seals. I also put the pipe insulation around the strap to try to take some pressure off of the seals. If anyone has any better ideas let's here um
One of the things I am going to do is getting longer straps (18') and put them around the outside edge (still on the back, but not over the window and run them toward the front, like the other straps.) and try to take some of the weight off of the ones on the weather seal.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:34 PM   #104
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thanks for the pics and explaination
Anytime man, this site has helped me a bunch already, and I've only been on it maybe 2 weeks.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #105
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One of the things I am going to do is getting longer straps (18') and put them around the outside edge (still on the back, but not over the window and run them toward the front, like the other straps.) and try to take some of the weight off of the ones on the weather seal.
Dont do this.... I did it just now and cracked the composite lip around the bottom of the rear of the hard top.

After that, I just added 2 more straps through the rear window slot and took load off that way.
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:17 PM   #106
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On the UBolts, I just drilled extra holes along the steel frame so that the bolts could be used to cross over the double and quadruple wired areas of the platform. I'll try to get a pic of that. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say I might have overdone it... probably 3 or 4 to a side would have been PLENTY. I did WAY more than that (8 or 9 a side, IIRC)


I am a bit concerned about the window seals as all the pressure is on those areas. I do however have some pipe insulation between the strap and the seal for now. Below is a shot from inside the hardtop looking at the upper left edge of the window. The photo is rotated 90 degrees to the left


My intention in the next week or so is to pick up a couple of "movers blankets" and slip one between the platform and the hardtop and one between the straps and the hardtop. I'm hoping that will keep the weight off of the back. I can't figure out a better way to connect the top and the platform for now. The hooks aren't big enough to grab the edge of the room along any point, and I'm leery about running them into the holes on the front and rear edges of the hardtop.

BTW, if the pics disappear, it's because I'm too cheap to pay for Photobucket premium. I use the free service only.
One thing you can do is take ratchet ropes or just ropes and take some of the pressure off the straps where it impacts the rear door seal. plus its just adds to your piece of mind. the holes in the side of the racor brace work well for tying into.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:27 PM   #107
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Got mine installed, cant wait to pop the top!
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:48 PM   #108
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Took the hardtop off today.






I used noodles to avoid pressure spots, and I used towels to diffuse the pressure from the hooks. Those straps are "Locking tie downs". They dont ratchet, but have a lock that prevents slippage, 10 bux for 4 at Home Despot.

Just a variation from the Jimbox!!
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:30 PM   #109
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If you are worried about the seals getting damaged from the straps, and if you have the room, you could install a shelf under the hardtop. That is what I ended up doing. This way I can lower the hardtop onto the shelf to reduce the amount of weight on the straps that are attached to the hardtop. Besides, it also gives me a place to store other items.
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:33 PM   #110
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If you are worried about the seals getting damaged from the straps, and if you have the room, you could install a shelf under the hardtop. That is what I ended up doing. This way I can lower the hardtop onto the shelf to reduce the amount of weight on the straps that are attached to the hardtop. Besides, it also gives me a place to store other items.
Actually after looking at the seals closer i'm not that concerned any longer but I do like the thought of a back up just in case something gives way. I had been thinking about a shelf as well and your picture just sealed the deal. Thanks for sharing
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:45 PM   #111
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How close can you get to the ceiling

Due to a large beam across my garage, I will need to park with the Jeep under the hard top, such that the roof of the jeep will need to fit below the hard top. I only have a 9'4" ceiling, so I will need to get the top of the hardtop as close to the ceiling as possible. I should be able to directly attach the Racor to the ceiling since I do have 16" joists, so hopefully that will help. How close can you get with the Racor, I will probably need to be at 12" or less, can I use the Racor?
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:37 PM   #112
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Probably, but you will need to change the way the lines attach to the wire platform so that you can wind the platform up higher. The traditional eye bolts and wire clamps take up too much space. I believe there is a pic on this thread from someone who attached the platform differently that would allow cranking the platform almost to the wheels of the racor. It looked easy to do.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:28 PM   #113
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Limited clearance

I am guessing you are talking about the truss made by nsande1. nsande1, how did you attach the cables to the wooded supports? Do you guys think I should still attempt the Racor, or I am better off attempting something like this?

http://www.jk-forum.com/jk-write-ups-39/1-person-hard-soft-top-removal-storage-under-$50-84638/
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:33 PM   #114
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BillyPete, your install looks very close to the ceiling, did you do anything different to allow it to get that close? What is the distance from where the hardtop meets the foam to the garage ceiling, it looks pretty close?
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:35 AM   #115
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BillyPete, your install looks very close to the ceiling, did you do anything different to allow it to get that close? What is the distance from where the hardtop meets the foam to the garage ceiling, it looks pretty close?
I followed shred_guys idea on this (see post 87) as I wanted as much height as I could get for the hardtop. I did away with the long eyebolts and just ran the cable thru the hole and around the inside and first crossmember then clamped it back to itself with the two crosby clamps. Distance to the ceiling from the bottom of the foam is right at 8". Still room for the freedom tops on the rack.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:55 PM   #116
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Racor failures?

OK, I was all set to order the Racor, but I have read several reviews on Amazon about Racor's failing during raising/lowering and dropping the shelf in free fall; This has me a bit concerned! Has anyone heard of a hard top getting dropped by this system, it might be that the failure reviews on amazon were using a heavier load?
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #117
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I followed shred_guys idea on this (see post 87) as I wanted as much height as I could get for the hardtop. I did away with the long eyebolts and just ran the cable thru the hole and around the inside and first crossmember then clamped it back to itself with the two crosby clamps. Distance to the ceiling from the bottom of the foam is right at 8". Still room for the freedom tops on the rack.
yea baby
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:31 PM   #118
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Advice needed

OK, I need some advice for you folks who have installed the Racor lift.

1. Do the bars that mount to the ceiling have to span several (3) joists, or can they be mounted on a single joist? In other words can I install several screws along one joist if I want the lift to be in that specific direction? What I am getting at is that I want the lift mechanism to be on either side and not the front and the back to make it easier to operate the lift.

2. How much clearance to you think I need from the back wall of the garage so the window is not an issue? From the back wall to the edge of where the rear of the jeep top will be if that makes more sense?

I have the lift ready to install....jeep is on order, should be along in a few weeks. So, I am just "nesting" as they say...getting ready for delivery.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:10 AM   #119
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Just ordered the Racor from Amazon for a Mother's Day gift (every woman's dream gift, right?!.....actually, she wants the lift so she can finally take her top off).

Thanks for all of the information you all have provided. I'm not mechanically inclined, so all of this info helps a ton.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:29 AM   #120
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1. yes, this is what i have done.
2. i keep the window down, so it is not an issue, but if you want to leave the window up, you'll probably need close to 30"

Quote:
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OK, I need some advice for you folks who have installed the Racor lift.

1. Do the bars that mount to the ceiling have to span several (3) joists, or can they be mounted on a single joist? In other words can I install several screws along one joist if I want the lift to be in that specific direction? What I am getting at is that I want the lift mechanism to be on either side and not the front and the back to make it easier to operate the lift.

2. How much clearance to you think I need from the back wall of the garage so the window is not an issue? From the back wall to the edge of where the rear of the jeep top will be if that makes more sense?

I have the lift ready to install....jeep is on order, should be along in a few weeks. So, I am just "nesting" as they say...getting ready for delivery.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

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