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Just finished installing RACOR lift for hard top

110K views 268 replies 93 participants last post by  Shinny 
#1 ·
Installation was a piece of cake. The most time consuming part was hand ratcheting all the screws into the 2x6's and also the 12, 4" lag screws into the ceiling joists.

My three ceiling joists were 51" apart instead of 48", so I had to use the 2x6's.

I loaded up the platform last night with some cinder blocks to test the weight overnight, and then tonight lifted the top off.

RACOR HD lift on amazon.com for $130
Ratchet straps at home depot for $10
1" pipe insulation at home depot for $1.39 ea

I apologize in advance for the iPhone pics
 

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#13 ·
Umm... with all that open space above the RACOR, couldn't you lay them flat on the rig? Then use a thick blanket and lay the 2 front roof panels on top?

Just wondering. Haven't seen the rig in person. Hell, I haven't had my full top off, yet. Just the doors and front top.
 
#4 ·
ZOMB1E said:
Installation was a piece of cake. The most time consuming part was hand ratcheting all the screws into the 2x6's and also the 12, 4" lag screws into the ceiling joists.

My three ceiling joists were 51" apart instead of 48", so I had to use the 2x6's.

I loaded up the platform last night with some cinder blocks to test the weight overnight, and then tonight lifted the top off.

RACOR HD lift on amazon.com for $130
Ratchet straps at home depot for $10
1" pipe insulation at home depot for $1.39 ea

I apologize in advance for the iPhone pics
Is that crack in the ceiling from the kit?
 
#7 ·
NEWWRANGLEROLDCJ7 said:
nice rig, man I need a garage

I was thinking about building a structure with 2 inch pipes, so i could lift and suspend my top off the ground,
The RACOR is a bit overkill, as the top is only approximately 100lbs. I'll bet you could rig something up with pipe as long as the base is sturdy. Be creative! :punk:
 
#9 ·
clear lake jeepn said:
good lord....what a PIA....one more reason I will NEVER have a hard top. Looks like some dungeon apparatus.....any questions from the neighbors as to what the shiznit goes on in your garage??? HA HA...just kidding!!
:rofl: I think they're used to me running my table saw at 11pm.

I actually got my hard top back on, bolted down, with the front panels locked, in about 10 minutes first try :punk:
 
#12 ·
thinking about that brings to mind something that happened to my best friend awhile back....he is a VERY smart Radiologist....but hung hooks for bikes in the garage with the garage closed and never stopped to think about where the hooks were placed in relation to the door when it was up....to make a long story short...he had bikes come crashing down on a new Mercedes SUV and a BMW conv!!!! Book smart, yes....any lick of common sense?? You tell me!!
 
#15 ·
Looks just like my install...2x4s and all. I load our kayak and dimensional lumber. Have a tall garage and wide split between the single door and the double door (three car plus garage...I love it!)
 
#18 ·
JIMBOX said:
:D Congrads Zombie, I've got my off-road inflate fishing boat/twin hull duck boat on top the carriage --

The RACOR, for the price is unbeatable !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
Thanks Jimbo, if it wasn't for your advice, I wouldn't have known about the RACOR :punk:

seadog said:
Umm... with all that open space above the RACOR, couldn't you lay them flat on the rig? Then use a thick blanket and lay the 2 front roof panels on top?

Just wondering. Haven't seen the rig in person. Hell, I haven't had my full top off, yet. Just the doors and front top.
The RACOR has a max capacity of 250lbs. The 4 door top is about 100lbs and the front doors are about 64lbs each. It probably would hold all the weight, but I don't know how comfortable I would be knowing the cost of replacing the top :)

spm488 said:
After seeing this I ordered my lift on Amazon. Great idea. Can't wait to see if you have a handy idea for the doors!
Good deal! It's much cheaper than buying the hoist-a-top.

I'm thinking some kind of hangers on the wall that will be at the same height as when I lift them off. Also something that will take the weight off the window frame.
 
#20 ·
:D Oh yea, I've built hoists/wall supports/lift contraptions, but

The homemade pulley/rope/hook, Rube Goldberg setups I've seen, can save 100 bucks, then one little miss co-ordinated move, can/does drop a corner of the $2000 buck top, why try to be Einstein-just pay $150 bucks and

------------------------------------FAGETABOUTIT---------------------------

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 
#22 ·
Thanks boss :punk:

American Eagle series 185 wheels
Eagle Alloy Wheels

Zone Offroad 3" lift w/Nitro Shocks
3" JK Suspension System

Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ 35x12.5
Tire, Baja MTZ 8 Ply SLT Mickey Thompson MT5266 by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center

Alloy USA 4.88 Gears to get those tires moving!
Jeep Wrangler JK Ring & Pinions and Installation Kits by Alloy USA and Superior

If I could have done it all over again, I would have bought the tires, wheels, and lift combo on Zone Offroad's website.
 
#24 ·
I was wondering how you would connect this lift to a hard top.

So it appears you used the included 4x4 platform and put pipe insulation to protect the hard top. then you just wrapped tie down straps around the hard top and platform? Looks like you weaved the straps thru the platform.

Looks like a better solution than trying to use hooks in corners etc. Better long term support for the top itself.

Nice job.
 
#25 ·
I am looking for a little input. I have everything I need now and my joists are 48" apart, however, it is going to have to be installed so the wire grid supports are going to be towards the front and back of my Jeep, not on the sides. This is going to cause the center spindle to also run front to back. I can't really think of any reasons why this should be an issue but since your's is already installed I was wondering if you may have any insight. Do you see any problems with installing it this way?
 
#26 ·
You're going to need your rear window open to remove the top, so the best bet would be having the spindle to the front of the jeep.

The crank seemed to wok best for me when I had some downward tension, but you won't be able to do that with the spindle on the front either.

I think Jimbo might have run his front to back though.
 
#27 ·
:D Mine is front/back and you get the same torque/tension on all four corners with an even weight, no matter which way it's positioned-



The only detract in having it this way, is the (sometimes) position of the operating rod, but no difference in "strain"

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 
#28 ·
Thanks guys. I am glad I asked, I was going to put the crank to the rear, but I never thought about the rear window. I guess with the crank to the front I can just operate it from the front seat since the front sections of the roof will be off anyhow?
 
#29 ·
:cool: Well, I don't think so-




Even with the "T" tops off, you'll still have the top directly underneath the rack and you won't have enough clearance to operate the rack rod (RR)-

You'll have to stand either in front, or side to operateit--no sweat-

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 
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