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led interior light kits

8K views 53 replies 27 participants last post by  HardRick 
#1 ·
Anyone have a good one that they recommend?
 
#13 ·
The rear dome light is canbus. The license plate light and the front dome are not.

If you don't get a canbus rear dome bulb, the rear view mirror map lights will remain on, draining your battery.
 
#14 ·
I bought the same kind of bulbs off eBay with no issues other than I had more money left over for beer. Prices are in Canadian dollars.

Front dome - 194 LED bulbs - $0.99 for two shipped
Rear dome - 578 LED bulbs CAN BUS - $2.38 shipped
 
#16 ·
#26 ·
Anyone have a before and after pic on the license plate, by chance? I want to do interior because I will find brighter light inside to be more functional. Changing bulbs by the plate wouldn't do much for me, except perhaps make sure I never have to deal with a burnt out bulb. If I do it, I just don't want it to stand out like a sore thumb, looking too bright and out of place.
 
#27 ·
While I don't have any pics, I can definitely tell you that the LED bulb I put in from superbrightleds.com is very bright white. I have Recon LED taillights, so my entire rear is bright at night. The plate bulb I have is bright enough to illuminate the entire plate and ground beneath it. If you go to the web site, you can choose LEDs that aren't as bright with different coverage patterns.
 
#34 ·
stupid question...

My 2 door only has one dome light (in the sound bar) along with those in the mirror.

Is the dome light in the sound bar the non CANBUS or the rear that is CANBUS?

I've also read a little bit about the map lights in the mirror. I have read that they're just your typical 194, and I've also read that they're soldered in and can't be replaced without completely rebuilding the mirror. What gives?

Exco
 
#35 ·
The sound bar in my JKU was the non- CanBus. I assume it's the same in both JK and JKU. My mirror was a soldered circuit board type light that I couldn't change. I just disconnected it because it stuck out lime a sore thumb against the blinding leds
 
#38 ·
Well,you guys won't believe what I did for an interior light in my JK. Of course, no lights in the back of those babies and when you pop open the tail in pitch black dark you can't see jack. To kill 2 birds with one stone, I bought a 3 cell maglight LED (900 lumens on high) and a maglight holster from TrekArmor because I need a good big light to leave in the jeep. I mounted the holster on the roll bar as far back as it would go next to the tailgate glass, pointed straight up. When I need a light back there I just reach over and hit the on button on the maglight. When that light hits the white surface of the hard top, it lights up the entire jeep like it daylight. When I'm done, click it off. Now I have my interior light and my emergency flashlight. Works like a charm and a lot brighter than anything I could stick up there.
 
#48 ·
Here's a quick list of the one's I know..

footwell lights - soldered COB - not Canbus (take apart the mount, cut the wires, and put in aftermarket lights, much easier than dealing with unsoldering the chips)

Map lights - soldered COB - not Canbus - either unsolder and change out, or use a tinted lens or glass to color the color

Dome lights in soundbar - not Canbus

Dome light in cargo (over rear seat) - Canbus needed - will cause map lights to stay on if not the right bulb

*work around* If you wire the tiniest standard 12v light in line on the positive wire to the light you can use any LED you want because the standard bulb will create enough draw in the line. I wired a light the size of a grain of rice inline and tucked it behind the light, you don't even know it's there.

License plate - not Canbus

Rear tail lights - reverse is not Canbus, I never tried the stop/tail/turn

Front side marker on fender - not Canbus

Dash lights - soldered COB - I haven't messes with them

HVAC lighting for HVAC switches - lighting built into unit, must take apart unit for access which I never did - basically unserviceable
 
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