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Old 02-19-2013, 12:49 AM   #1
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Angry Lift Kits? Lift Kits? Lift Kits!?!?

As a guy who (this is sad to say but I didn't have much of a dad growing up to teach me these things) doesn't know much about the mechanics of vehicles, I have learned a lot from reading the hundreds of posts on here regarding all walks of jeep life. I swear some of you are Jeep gods (No, I will not list names. Don't want anyone's ego to get big ). But I still have not come any closer in figuring out what is right for me
So I ask all of you. Please give me your input.

I have a brand new 2013 Wrangler S that I want to get lifted. This is my dd, so I'm not looking at anything crazy like a 3.5" lift. I do want to take it off roading and do some moderately rock crawling, but I still would like to keep something of a decent gas mileage () and have good stability/traction while driving in the city.

The Rubicon 2.5" lift looks promising. So does TeraFlex's.
But should I be focusing more on anti-rock or SwayLoc?

Also I have learned that it would be wise to have disconnect swaybars. Should this be something I buy separately from whatever suspension lift kit I get or together? If I buy it separately are there things I need to look for to make sure it works with whatever suspension lift kit I get?

How big of a factor are lockers playing in with all of this?


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Old 02-19-2013, 02:04 AM   #2
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You might look into a more comprehensive kit that comes with sway bar disconnects such as this one:

Rock Krawler Suspension RKJK25MT - Rock Krawler Max Travel 2.5" System for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Lockers are going to be a subjective thing. If you stay in the moderate to low difficulty trails, chances are you may never need them. In my opinion, your money would be better spent on a winch unless you are already planning on spending the money to regear.

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Old 02-19-2013, 04:15 AM   #3
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Just a comment about lockers. Been wheeling 6 times and I've only needed lockers twice. This weekend we were climbing a big hill. The sport in the group took about 10 tries and only got up by backing up and gunning it. The video was my second try and first with lockers. So Lockers you don't need too often but they sure make it easy.

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Old 02-19-2013, 06:30 AM   #4
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I just had the RK 2.5 max travel installed yesterday. I have to tell you it's a great improvement over stock. It's a more complete lift than treadles. You know what they say you get what you pay for. It's well built. Haven't taken it offload yet but I'm sure it won't disappoint. If you have the money do it right and do it once. Don't want to spend money and then be disappointed.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:03 AM   #5
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Throwing a wrench into your choices.

Check out the MetalCloak 2.5" lift.

Go Terps!
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:52 AM   #6
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My 2 cents on the matter. Whatever disconnects you choose, make sure they are appropriately long for whatever suspension lift you choose. I would get some that attach to your vehicle when they are disconnected and are not zip tied or whatever. You can accomplish the same thing by removing your stock ones to see how big a difference disconnecting makes.
Lockers do not have to be expensive. Do some research on Aussie Lockers, many people have installed them on their front Dana 30's in their garage at home. Its a little confusing but with patience and watching plenty of videos you too can do it.
I have found that generally we break parts when the vehicle is pushed beyond its limits, so Lockers will push the limit a little further, they will allow you to go further with less stress on parts because you are not having to hammer down on the gas pedal.
Really, do whatever you think will get you to the end of the trail, test your Jeep's limits, it will tell you when you cant go any further, by either breaking or just not making it. Buy a tow strap some armor and a winch.
MetalCloak is awesome by the way, I love my MetalCloak stuff.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:44 AM   #7
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Aye. I do plan on eventually getting new bumpers, a winch, and some rock guards/rails as well. But I want to start off with good lift first. I hate buying something and then realizing that it isn't what I need. Speaking of rock rails. Is it safe to use those as a step? I'm thinking about whenever I have a date and how in the world she is going to be able to get into my jeep. I like my women short
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferninAZ View Post
Lockers do not have to be expensive. Do some research on Aussie Lockers, many people have installed them on their front Dana 30's in their garage at home. Its a little confusing but with patience and watching plenty of videos you too can do it.

Really, do whatever you think will get you to the end of the trail, test your Jeep's limits, it will tell you when you cant go any further, by either breaking or just not making it. Buy a tow strap some armor and a winch.
MetalCloak is awesome by the way, I love my MetalCloak stuff.
I have an open diff in the rear and want lockers for muddy trails and hills. Would you suggest getting an auto locker for the front or rear? I don't want anything where the clutches will wear out. My budget is $500 MAX and I need a winch first.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedison View Post
Aye. I do plan on eventually getting new bumpers, a winch, and some rock guards/rails as well. But I want to start off with good lift first. I hate buying something and then realizing that it isn't what I need. Speaking of rock rails. Is it safe to use those as a step? I'm thinking about whenever I have a date and how in the world she is going to be able to get into my jeep. I like my women short
Rock rails are safe for your shorty (see what I did there). What is your budget for the lift? That will help determine what lifts you'll look at.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:55 AM   #10
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You posted that you wanted a lift and everyone started giving you suggestions, however you need to get the horse back in front of the cart. What size tires are you planning to get? Have you ever driven off road?
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by cmaggi2 View Post
I have an open diff in the rear and want lockers for muddy trails and hills. Would you suggest getting an auto locker for the front or rear? I don't want anything where the clutches will wear out. My budget is $500 MAX and I need a winch first.
I believe that having it in the front is the way to go, but there are arguments for both. I have an Aussie up front because I believe that if I need to go into 4wd then I would like both of my front tires to be pulling me up and over or thru an obstacle. The Aussie is almost not noticeable during daily driving on the street except when making a U-turn or in a slow turn into a parking space. Regular driving around I dont even know its there. Like I said, there are arguments for both, I prefer it in the front.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:11 PM   #12
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X2 on Rock Krawler but not knowing your budget You said you want to do it once I would get RK JK 2.5 Max Travel System you can add upper ca's or rear track bar later and with any RK 2.5 lift 35" tires are no prob.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDe...tCode=RKJK25MT

sj
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ferninAZ View Post

I believe that having it in the front is the way to go, but there are arguments for both. I have an Aussie up front because I believe that if I need to go into 4wd then I would like both of my front tires to be pulling me up and over or thru an obstacle. The Aussie is almost not noticeable during daily driving on the street except when making a U-turn or in a slow turn into a parking space. Regular driving around I dont even know its there. Like I said, there are arguments for both, I prefer it in the front.
I was thinking up front too since it's a DD as well, but didn't know if a locked front and open rear was common.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by daggo66
You posted that you wanted a lift and everyone started giving you suggestions, however you need to get the horse back in front of the cart. What size tires are you planning to get? Have you ever driven off road?
I was thinking 33s and have only taken her off road twice so far. Nothing big. Just some hills and a bit of rocky terrain(small rocks). I don't mind spending up to a grand on a lift, I just want to do it right the first time
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokinjoe
X2 on Rock Krawler but not knowing your budget You said you want to do it once I would get RK JK 2.5 Max Travel System you can add upper ca's or rear track bar later and with any RK 2.5 lift 35" tires are no prob.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDe...tCode=RKJK25MT

sj
Is there a whistling smile icon on here? Because that's what I just did
That SJ, looks very very interesting. Thank you.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:14 AM   #16
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Throwing a wrench into your choices.

Check out the MetalCloak 2.5" lift.

Go Terps!
Does MetalCloak make a 2.5" for 2 doors?
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Old 02-20-2013, 02:46 AM   #17
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Does MetalCloak make a 2.5" for 2 doors?
They don't, something about not enough interest right now I think.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:41 PM   #18
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Just a comment about lockers. Been wheeling 6 times and I've only needed lockers twice. This weekend we were climbing a big hill. The sport in the group took about 10 tries and only got up by backing up and gunning it. The video was my second try and first with lockers. So Lockers you don't need too often but they sure make it easy.


Help me out here. I'm debating 1) whether to get lockers or not and 2) where they should fall in the order of upgrades.

For item #1, there isn't any publically accessible technical wheeling within a 2 hour driving range of the D.C. area that requires lockers*. A state of the art locker front and rear seems to be about $3000+ installed. I don't mind spending the $$$ but how many times will I actually need it? Given that I have decent M&S tires, an OEM limited slip rear diff, and a winch I'm not sure the cost/benefit is there for me. For $3k, I could go on a really nice vacation. I'll probably get them but the frugal part in me is thinking how to justify it.

*the only exception would be deep snow wheeling but then that's only for a few times during the year and chains would probably work better.

For item #2, where exactly do lockers fall into the order of upgrades for a D.C. area wheeler? I have said winch, decent lighting, front sway bar disconnects, and some undercarriage armor. On the to do list in no particular order is a roof cargo rack, more forward lighting, improved rear lighting, a 2 1/2" lift kit, and more undercarriage armor.

Sorry for thread jacking.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:51 PM   #19
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Help me out here. I'm debating 1) whether to get lockers or not and 2) where they should fall in the order of upgrades.

For item #1, there isn't any publically accessible technical wheeling within a 2 hour driving range of the D.C. area that requires lockers*. A state of the art locker front and rear seems to be about $3000+ installed. I don't mind spending the $$$ but how many times will I actually need it? Given that I have decent M&S tires, an OEM limited slip rear diff, and a winch I'm not sure the cost/benefit is there for me. For $3k, I could go on a really nice vacation. I'll probably get them but the frugal part in me is thinking how to justify it.

*the only exception would be deep snow wheeling but then that's only for a few times during the year and chains would probably work better.

For item #2, where exactly do lockers fall into the order of upgrades for a D.C. area wheeler? I have said winch, decent lighting, front sway bar disconnects, and some undercarriage armor. On the to do list in no particular order is a roof cargo rack, more forward lighting, improved rear lighting, a 2 1/2" lift kit, and more undercarriage armor.

Sorry for thread jacking.
My suggestion is to go wheeling, when you get stuck, figure out why you got stuck and then buy a part that will get you past that part of the trail. Go wheeling again, when you get stuck, figure out why you got stuck and then buy a part that will get you past that part of the trail. Repeat until you break a part and then upgrade those parts so they do not break as easy next time. You will quickly learn your weak spots after the first time you are stuck.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #20
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RK Has some real nice kits there control arms are beef. I loved there kit in my JKUR we have a local trail and the road in is real rough with the progressive rate springs it sailed over with speed 4 people loaded winch bumper heavy tire carrier on 37s . I traded that jeep in on a 2dr and building it up. Would I run RK again the control arms absolutely. I didn't like there track bars I would run jks track bars and for the coils in a 4 door yes in a 2 door I feel they are to stiff. So I will be piecing a kit together on my new jeep
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #21
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My suggestion is to go wheeling, when you get stuck, figure out why you got stuck and then buy a part that will get you past that part of the trail. Go wheeling again, when you get stuck, figure out why you got stuck and then buy a part that will get you past that part of the trail. Repeat until you break a part and then upgrade those parts so they do not break as easy next time. You will quickly learn your weak spots after the first time you are stuck.
Good advice. Unfortunately there are no publically accessible areas within a 2 1/2 hour driving range of the D.C. Metro area that a stock Wrangler can't handle.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:41 PM   #22
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So what would be better,
Rock Krawler 2.5" X Factor or the 3.5" X Factor? They are the same price.
Planning on getting 15" Black Rock Vipers with the 35" GY MTR Kevlars.
Got some really rocky trails here in the Vegas area.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:43 PM   #23
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So what would be better,
Rock Krawler 2.5" X Factor or the 3.5" X Factor? They are the same price.
Planning on getting 15" Black Rock Vipers with the 35" GY MTR Kevlars.
Got some really rocky trails here in the Vegas area.
Im no expert, BUT from what I have read on this forum, it depends on your budget. With 3.5" of lift, you will need do get new driveshafts soon. Also if you plan on getting flat fenders, then I think you will need 37's to look "awesome" LOL. Good luck with your Jeep though.

I have settled on the 2.5" RK lift but am really deciding on what i really need/want between the flex system or the max travel...
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:59 PM   #24
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So what would be better,
Rock Krawler 2.5" X Factor or the 3.5" X Factor? They are the same price.
Planning on getting 15" Black Rock Vipers with the 35" GY MTR Kevlars.
Got some really rocky trails here in the Vegas area.
That would be a pretty similar setup as mine. I have the same wheels and tires and the 2.5" Max Travel Pro lift from RK. IMO the 35s match well with the 2.5" lift. 37s fit better under the 3.5" lift. You'll get tons of travel out of this lift and a little more height that advertised.



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Old 03-07-2013, 07:59 PM   #25
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You'll need to look at the 2.5 vs 3.5 kits, as some of them are simply taller springs, and others have associated drive-line correction components... You really can have a lot of fun with just some good tires, maybe a bit or armour, and a winch. That said, a 2.5 is the sweet spot as far as street use vs. off-road. If you go 3.5 or 4.5, you are really setting yourself up to get 37+ tires... which aren't much fun on the pavement...

2.5 and 35's is nice.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:41 PM   #26
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:32 PM   #27
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Hey everyone. Sorry for the extremely overly delayed response. Work became extremely busy and then there was the possibility of getting deployed again. But things have finally calmed down again. My Poison Spider rock sliders have arrived and I am currently waiting for my Rock Crawler 2.5 in lift to arrive
I'm now looking into, and reading about, bumpers and I am strongly leaning toward the SRC, or the XRC, Smitty bumpers (front and rear). But now I have a new concern that I didn't even know about. The weight of the bumpers!
Does anyone know if these bumpers will severely drag my future new lift down to pointless? Any recommendations?
I promise to upload pics as soon as the parts get added
And for those of you who live near sac, or if I ever run into while out on a trail, i promise to buy a drink as a sign of my thanks.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:04 AM   #28
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I have an AEV 2.5 lift kit and use the Rugged Ridge XHD Aluminum Front Bumper with a Smittybilt winch. I notice no front end droop at all.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:51 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jedison View Post
Hey everyone. Sorry for the extremely overly delayed response. Work became extremely busy and then there was the possibility of getting deployed again. But things have finally calmed down again. My Poison Spider rock sliders have arrived and I am currently waiting for my Rock Crawler 2.5 in lift to arrive
I'm now looking into, and reading about, bumpers and I am strongly leaning toward the SRC, or the XRC, Smitty bumpers (front and rear). But now I have a new concern that I didn't even know about. The weight of the bumpers!
Does anyone know if these bumpers will severely drag my future new lift down to pointless? Any recommendations?
I promise to upload pics as soon as the parts get added
And for those of you who live near sac, or if I ever run into while out on a trail, i promise to buy a drink as a sign of my thanks.

A lot of the lift kits will give a two door more lift than they advertise. It's been mentioned a few times that a 2.5 kit has pushed almost 4 inches of lift on a two door. If it was me, I would almost want more weight on the bumpers to keep the height a bit lower and risk less damage to the drivetrain - or buy a kit for less height or specifically for a two door.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:57 AM   #30
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My rock sliders weigh 84lbs. I guessing that a new front and rear bumper is going to weigh a total around 120lbs. That's a good 200+ lbs of new weight on the jeep.
:/

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