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Old 08-29-2013, 09:24 PM   #1
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Lift/Tires - I have a Plan, but is it a good one?

First of all I want to that all of you experienced guys who take the time to answer the endless and (most likely) annoyingly repetitive questions of us newbies. I for one really appreciate it!

My 2012 JK Unlimited is a daily driver, and until it is WAY closer to being paid for, the only off-roading it is likely to see is of the dirt road/field road/ fishing hole/ hunting spot variety. I originally wanted to go with 35ís, but I now want to avoid any added expenses of re-gearing, or exhaust/drive shaft clearance issues. Iím trying to avoid the added costs because my 15 year old son just told me he would love his first car to be a Jeep (God bless him), so time to start looking. Based on that, I decided what I really want is a wider and more aggressive tire than what came on it, along with a set of black wheels. Here is the plan I came up with. I would really appreciate any opinions as to if Iím on the right track, or if there are better options Iím not considering.

Lift Ė 2 inch Rubicon Express Spacer Lift
Tires Ė 33x12.5x17 Dick Cepek Fun Country II (or possibly Procomp All Terrains or 305/65R17 Procomp Xtreme ATís)
Wheels Ė Mickey Thompson Classic III (in black)

Questions:
1. Any issues or problems with the 2 inch RE spacer lift? It seems too simpleÖ. spacers, bumpstops and shocks or extenders. Any other parts I need?
2. Are shock extenders OK, or should I get their replacement shocks
3. Any comments on the tire choice(s)? I would like Goodyear Duratracís, but they donít seem to come in a comparable size (12-12.5 inches wide and 33" dia)

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Old 08-29-2013, 09:32 PM   #2
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you can always do the 33-12.50x15


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Old 08-29-2013, 09:34 PM   #3
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They make for a wider more aggressive stance and no lift at all required

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Old 08-29-2013, 09:49 PM   #4
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ave8er--- Any rubbing issues while on road? Have you had it offroad much? Really just wanting any advice you have on this size tire without a lift.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:59 PM   #5
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Looks great! I really like the look of that tire, but I had thought that you would have rubbing issues with a 12 or 12.5 inch wide tire during compression, without running a lift. Could it be due to what I've heard about the Duratrac being a little smaller in diameter that the stated size? I take it there is no issue of the 15 inch wheel clearing the brake caliper and rotor as long as you have the correct backspacing?
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:21 AM   #6
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I have the 33"x12.5 15 on level 8 trackers with no rubbing on the calipers, I ran them for a few weeks with no lift with zero rubbing anywhere... In even fairly mild Off road situations they would have rubbed badly though
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:06 AM   #7
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305/65/17s look really good mounted. There have been a few pics posted on the forum. I think a member called Doha has that size tires on his.

Almost all 2" spacer kits are created equal. When I get one, I'll avoid the ones that have spacers for stock shocks.

For the best ride, I'll probably go with a 2.5" kit and use AEV drop brackets.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDBillet13 View Post
ave8er--- Any rubbing issues while on road? Have you had it offroad much? Really just wanting any advice you have on this size tire without a lift.
no rubbing issues on the road. In situations off road with a lot of flex the rears would hit the fenders and pop the plastic rivets loose. A 1" body lift would probably cure that. They didn't hit that hard but it would pop the plastic rivets.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:49 AM   #9
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So why do so many people go away from the 17-inch wheels when they upgrade? Are the tires cheaper, or are they looking to gain sidewall flex?
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket12JK View Post
So why do so many people go away from the 17-inch wheels when they upgrade? Are the tires cheaper, or are they looking to gain sidewall flex?
Cheaper for the most part. Stick with 17's if you ever plan on 37's
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:33 AM   #11
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I will point out one thing WRT drive shaft and exhaust clearance issues.

A lot of folks think that the lift height is the determining factor here. It is not. If you have seen the TeraFlex video covering the topic, you can understand where the confusion stems from - it's an issue of terminology.

That being said, what controls the "droop" of your axle as it extends are two things - your shocks and your control arms. The length of your springs (and thus, the height of your lift) are not relevant - it just so happens that longer shocks typically accompany longer springs and a higher lift.

I point this out so that you understand a 2" spacer lift does not keep you out of danger for encountering a clearance issue between your DS and exhaust. If we consider what TeraFlex states (an additional 2" of down travel will cause issues), then you need to be mindful of your shocks extended length. Bottom line - if you get a shock spacer that is 2" or more, you are going to have an issue. If you get shocks with more than 2" greater extended length, you are going to have an issue.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:47 AM   #12
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Thanks for the explanation.... I haven't seen that Terra Flex video yet. So what is the best way to avoid the DS/exhaust issue (other than no lift) and still be able to fit a 33x12 or 12.5 without rubbing?
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:51 AM   #13
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I had a 2" BB with spacers and shocks. Never had a clearance issue with the stock DS and the exhaust. Most shocks you get with a BB are not going to extend far enough to be a problem.

I wouldnt worry about it - wheel it - check the boot on the DS after each trip. If you rip the booot replace the DS or drive it til it fails.

Even if by some chance it hits the exhaust the exhaust spacers would probably give you enough clearance and its $60.00 vs $500.

In fact when we installed the lift I have now (RE 3.5" Short Arm Superflex), the stock DS was barlely hitting at full droop. Now the shock that RE sent me was for 2.5-3.5" lifts. I changed to a shock that was for the 4.5" lift and at that point we changed the front DS.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Rocket12JK View Post
Thanks for the explanation.... I haven't seen that Terra Flex video yet. So what is the best way to avoid the DS/exhaust issue (other than no lift) and still be able to fit a 33x12 or 12.5 without rubbing?
A leveling kit and flat fenders especially if you'll be disconnecting your sway bar... I run 33x12.5 with the tf performance leveling kit with a slight bit of rub the under high flex, flat fenders would fix that though
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:01 PM   #15
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If I don't plan on disconnecting the sway bar, am I more likely to get by with no rubbing of either the fenders or the drive shaft? I do like the flat fenders.......can't beat flat fenders, even if its a JKU
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:12 PM   #16
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I've never had an issue with my drive shaft, and only slight rubbing on the rear fenders when I purposely flexed as far as I could... Longer bumpstops would also fix that however it's never been an issue for me so I just run it as is
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2012 jk 6sp
35" Hankook MT's, 1.5" RK lift, Rancho 9000's, bushwacker flatties, F&R Rubi Dana 44's w RCV's, chromoly shafts, 5.13 gears, Ace sliders & rear bumper, skid plates, RR front bumper, Q9000s winch
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:23 PM   #17
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I went with 2.5 AEV w/drop brackets and couldn't be happier and I have no clearance issues with exhaust/DS. Went with 35s as well and no rubbing. Before and after pics...
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:36 PM   #18
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Go 35's. No use in avoiding the inevidable.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:10 PM   #19
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Go 35's. No use in avoiding the inevidable.
Not always true, I'm running 33's and have no plans of doing 35's... There are negatives to going 35's that most seem to forget about
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:25 AM   #20
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Thanks everybody for the input. I really appreciate it! it's gonna be a tough decision.

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