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Old 05-08-2011, 12:30 PM   #1
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Question Lift vs Tires

Hey

Still new to jeeps so this may be a dumb question...

How high of a lift kit can you get away with while still running the stock 32" on 18 inch rims before it starts to look silly?

I have future plans for tires...I have future plans for a lot of things but if I can pick up some stuff in the meantime I am gunna. My plan is 35" tires...but I am gunna run at least a season on my stock 32" so should I just wait to get the lift with the tires or what?

So let me have it!

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Old 05-08-2011, 12:35 PM   #2
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you don't need a lift for 32s....and you don't need one for 35s either. do what you want, but the front axle is weak and should get some major reinforcement before going to 35s. lifts don't get you ground clearance because they don't get the diffs any higher off the ground(diff is your lowest point).

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Old 05-08-2011, 12:38 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by swingtail82 View Post
you don't need a lift for 32s....and you don't need one for 35s either. do what you want, but the front axle is weak and should get some major reinforcement before going to 35s. lifts don't get you ground clearance because they don't get the diffs any higher off the ground(diff is your lowest point).
I know I don't "Need" hehe...but I WANT! what do you mean by major reinforcement to the front axel?...and the newb comes out :P
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:48 PM   #4
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I know I don't "Need" hehe...but I WANT! what do you mean by major reinforcement to the front axel?...and the newb comes out :P
most people don't, but if you search the web you'll find out that the front axle on the jk is pretty much a sissy when you add larger tires(bigger than 33). the axles break, tubes bend/shear and the outer "C's" open up. if you don't wheel your jeep it's no big deal. I would recommend the Offroad Evolution 44magnum sleeves and corresponding gussets before going to anything larger than 33. some people will tell you that it's not necessary but the last thing I want to do is figure out how to get my busted axle jeep out of the national forest when I'm 50 miles in.
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:51 PM   #5
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added weight means added stress. open diffs are less likely to have issues because a locked diff produces more torsion
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:35 PM   #6
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Are we talking about Dana 30s or 44s?
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:15 PM   #7
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Are we talking about Dana 30s or 44s?
I believe it is the 30's I may be wrong but I think the 44 only comes on the rubicon standard
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:33 PM   #8
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I'm talking about both.....the 44s are stronger than the 30s but they are still in need of reinforcement
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:48 PM   #9
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why lift, you can run 35s with some cutting and bump stops and you can clear 37s with metal cloak arched fenders.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:22 PM   #10
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To answer the original question: I'd say much over 3" and it starts to look like a roller-skate. By contrast, there are plenty of folks that to 2" to 2.5" budget boosts and the like on stock tires/wheels.

On the reinforcement for 35s issue, yeah, you can sleeve it, gusset it, and replace your ball joints. But for 35s you'll also want to regear it.

If your mostly a street guy, the latter is by far the most important. If you plan on wheeling a lot, then the other items will eventually come to call too but you know what? There are quite a few folks on here running 35s on the D30 front axle and they're doing fine. It can become an issue eventually I suppose but I'd expect it'd be alright for a while.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:32 PM   #11
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Stock tires/wheels and 2.5" TeraFlex Spring lift - looks OK to me:



Works with 35s too:
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:53 PM   #12
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Second picture looks much better. IMO I wouldn't go any higher than either a 3/4 spacer lift from Daystar all around or a 1.75 leveling kit by Teraflex with stock 32" tires.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:58 PM   #13
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Second picture looks much better...
I agree, but as the OP my plan was to go to 35s, so I lifted it first and ran it for a year till I shredded the sidewalls on two of my 32s on a trail.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:59 PM   #14
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This was after I got my 2.5" front 1.5" rear on stock 32 GY SRA's



After putting on 285/70/17's

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Old 05-09-2011, 01:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhamilton83

I believe it is the 30's I may be wrong but I think the 44 only comes on the rubicon standard
That's why I was asking.

I didn't catch if he identified the trim level.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:59 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by swingtail82 View Post
you don't need a lift for 32s....and you don't need one for 35s either. do what you want, but the front axle is weak and should get some major reinforcement before going to 35s. lifts don't get you ground clearance because they don't get the diffs any higher off the ground(diff is your lowest point).
I agree on beefing up the front Dana 30 but dissagree that a lift doesn't give you more ground clearance. Granted only taller tires will raise your axles, but a suspension lift does in fact increase your ground clearance for everything else, bumpers, oil pan, T/C, gas tank, body, etc....

More lift= more ground clearance
Less lift= Less ground clearance

With a good spotter and or driver, you can usually exercise good tire placement & keep from hitting your differentials.
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:29 PM   #17
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The TF 2.5" lift looks fine with the stock wheels/tires IMO. NOT that new wheels and 35's aren't on my list of course

I just installed my lift a month ago

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Old 05-10-2011, 09:01 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 07XMan2Door View Post
I agree on beefing up the front Dana 30 but dissagree that a lift doesn't give you more ground clearance. Granted only taller tires will raise your axles, but a suspension lift does in fact increase your ground clearance for everything else, bumpers, oil pan, T/C, gas tank, body, etc....

More lift= more ground clearance
Less lift= Less ground clearance

With a good spotter and or driver, you can usually exercise good tire placement & keep from hitting your differentials.
ground clearance is "Usually" measured by measuring from the ground to the lowest point on the vehicle.....I understand that lifts raise everything else, but if we're talking about "Real" ground clearance the diffs will be the lowest point. When it comes to crawling the LCOG(properly built) goes just as many if not more places than the guy with the rediculous lift. the only situation that I can see where 9 miles of lift is gonna help is water(and we all know how often we try to cross rivers)...and you stated "With a good spotter and or driver, you can usually exercise good tire placement & keep from hitting the differentials"....if that's the case then what's the point in blowing countless dollars on achieving a horrible center of gravity?
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:03 PM   #19
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build it how you want, but I prefer low and slow
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:48 AM   #20
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The lowest part of your jeep determines your ground clearence. Generally these are the diffs. you raise the diffs with larger tires, which also makes climbing objects easier but adds a lot of stress to axles.

The purpose of lifts is to enable larger tires. In general you want the smallest lift to run the tires size you want as a low COG is a really good idea.

Mod it the way you want, but a 3" lift will do most of what you want if not all and maintain a low COG

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