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Old 09-04-2014, 01:24 AM   #1
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Lifting

I have read past threads about this subject but am kinda confused about what's needed when lifting a JK. I have myself a 2013 2 door, I want 35s with a lift. Somethings I read are that im going to want to up my gears. Also, possibly get a tire carrier for the spare 35 because of the weight?

If it helps I want it mainly for looks but I want to take it offroad anytime I want, although i probably wont all the time. What i'm looking at getting is this kit

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Krawler-J.../dp/B009XOPEQY

I haven't decided on tires but definitely want 35s. I'm just really confused with people mentioning I would probably need a new front and rear axle etc etc. Can someone dumb it down for me and tell me what else I would need for a 2013 Automatic Sport? I'm talking about everything for the lift and 35s.I'm sorry about asking a popular subject, thank you.

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Old 09-04-2014, 01:34 AM   #2
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Mike is running 35s on his 2013 Sport S. He's got a TeraFlex 2.5" lift with Rancho 9000xl shocks. 17" RR wheels with 315/70R-17 DuraTracs. He's also got the TeraFlex monster Trackbar and LCAs. He's currently running 3.73 gears. It's not optimal, but you can definitely run 35s on 3.73. You just lose a little bit of power.

You should definitely look into a new tire carrier. You'll be able to run the 35 on the stock carrier for a little while, but long term it will ruin your tailgate if you don't upgrade the carrier.

I'm not sure why someone would tell you you NEED new axles. Mike has been running this setup since November 2012 and hasn't had any issues. He ran 33s for a year, then upgraded to 35s. We haven't seen any axle/driveshaft issues.

Hope this helps!

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Old 09-04-2014, 01:45 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by StarBrite View Post
Mike is running 35s on his 2013 Sport S. He's got a TeraFlex 2.5" lift with Rancho 9000xl shocks. 17" RR wheels with 315/70R-17 DuraTracs. He's also got the TeraFlex monster Trackbar and LCAs. He's currently running 3.73 gears. It's not optimal, but you can definitely run 35s on 3.73. You just lose a little bit of power.

You should definitely look into a new tire carrier. You'll be able to run the 35 on the stock carrier for a little while, but long term it will ruin your tailgate if you don't upgrade the carrier.

I'm not sure why someone would tell you you NEED new axles. Mike has been running this setup since November 2012 and hasn't had any issues. He ran 33s for a year, then upgraded to 35s. We haven't seen any axle/driveshaft issues.

Hope this helps!

Thank you for the quick response

So all I would need is:

Teraflex lift suspension lift kit
Amazon.com: Teraflex 1251002 Suspension Lift System: Automotive

But is it neccesary to get the Trackbar and LCAs? Because those do not come with this kit correct? Thanks again.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:55 AM   #4
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No, the Trackbar and LCAs don't come with the kit. Mike got them because he wanted to tighten up the steering. He felt it was a little flighty with the 35s.

It's an easy enough mod to do after the fact. You could just do the lift/shocks now and add the Trackbar and LCAs if you feel it's necessary.

Sorry, I meant to ask. Do you have 3.21 or 3.73? Do you live in hills/mountainous terrain? Or do you live in the flats? Some people say they run 35s just fine with 3.21, but I just can't see it.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:57 AM   #5
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I have that lift, few things you might want to consider:

Acorn style lug nuts (if your getting new wheels)
Bumpstops (?) might not need them but recommended by most
Flashcal/procal
Shocks
Steering Stabilizer (take it or leave it)
Exhaust Spacer Kit or insert solution for front drive-line here -----

Gears should feel fine for your application.

I got a used 35" spare tire ($30) that weighs a lot less then my Nitto MT's, but on borrowed time until I get a rear/tire carrier.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:02 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by StarBrite View Post
No, the Trackbar and LCAs don't come with the kit. Mike got them because he wanted to tighten up the steering. He felt it was a little flighty with the 35s.

It's an easy enough mod to do after the fact. You could just do the lift/shocks now and add the Trackbar and LCAs if you feel it's necessary.

Sorry, I meant to ask. Do you have 3.21 or 3.73? Do you live in hills/mountainous terrain? Or do you live in the flats? Some people say they run 35s just fine with 3.21, but I just can't see it.
Good to know,it's mostly flat where I live and I have a 3.21 so i'll more then likely go up, thanks again!
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:10 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ragnar View Post
I have that lift, few things you might want to consider:

Acorn style lug nuts (if your getting new wheels)
Bumpstops (?) might not need them but recommended by most
Flashcal/procal
Shocks
Steering Stabilizer (take it or leave it)
Exhaust Spacer Kit or insert solution for front drive-line here -----

Gears should feel fine for your application.

I got a used 35" spare tire ($30) that weighs a lot less then my Nitto MT's, but on borrowed time until I get a rear/tire carrier.

Hope this helps.
I plan in getting new wheels but for now i'll stick with the ones I got since they'll probably do the job for now, simply because im on a budget. Bumpstops seem like they will help so i'll probably get those then. the Shocks Ithink come with the Suspension lift i'm looking at so i'll probably stick with those for a while.Unless i'm better off getting the kit without the shocks and then do my research on which ones I think would be best?The steering Stabilizer isn't a bad price so i'll probably get that too. Lastly, to be honest i don't get why I would need the Exhaust spacer kit?

I like your idea you did for your extra tire so i'll probably do that as well for now, thanks.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:14 AM   #8
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If you are confused stop reading threads. You did the right by starting there but now start asking specific questions about things you don't understand. Asking to have the affair dumbed down is an invitation for everyone just repeating everything you already read.

That RK kit is a high quality lift. It is not mandatory to add anything else. But if you read the threads you should noticed that lifts of that size will cause the driveshafts to eventually fail. How long the driveshaft will last depends on how much and how often you droop the wheels. Most owners don't replace them until they fail because they usually don't fail suddenly unless you push them to the limit.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:38 AM   #9
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I have a 2013 sport 2 door automatic.
I have a 2.5 teraflex coil lift without shocks. I bought Rancho 9000XL shocks. I bought a Teraflex monster track bar. I have JKS quicker disconnects (optional but necessary if you wheel). I have the teraflex exhaust spacers which will be necessary if you disconnect. I opted for the Rancho drop brackets instead of the adjustable LCA's. I am not a hard core rock smashing wheeler. Lower front LCA's will keep your clearance where drop brackets hang down a few inches. Your call on how you plan to use the vehicle.
I have 315-70r-17 duratracs. The Jeep is still in 3.21 gears which are tolerable with the 3.6 but will eventually be upgraded. Mine can be called a daily driver and not a show rig or need to be trailered to events.
I read until I needed glasses before I bought my lift.
My buddies and I did all the work with no problems. I love the way it looks and more so performs.
If you have any direct questions, fire away.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:46 AM   #10
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Also, the Rancho shocks are currently on sale, buy three get one free. The nice thing about the 9000xls are they are adjustable so you can set them for whatever terrain you'll be driving on. They are VERY popular here. And with the sale, I think they are worth the upgrade over the standard shocks that come in the kit. Just make sure you get the xl29 and xl30 shocks.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:34 AM   #11
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You should also confirm if that lift has the old style springs or the new triple rate coils. Buying off amazon could be an older style lift that some place is trying to move out of stock.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ed View Post
I have a 2013 sport 2 door automatic.
I have a 2.5 teraflex coil lift without shocks. I bought Rancho 9000XL shocks. I bought a Teraflex monster track bar. I have JKS quicker disconnects (optional but necessary if you wheel). I have the teraflex exhaust spacers which will be necessary if you disconnect. I opted for the Rancho drop brackets instead of the adjustable LCA's. I am not a hard core rock smashing wheeler. Lower front LCA's will keep your clearance where drop brackets hang down a few inches. Your call on how you plan to use the vehicle.
I have 315-70r-17 duratracs. The Jeep is still in 3.21 gears which are tolerable with the 3.6 but will eventually be upgraded. Mine can be called a daily driver and not a show rig or need to be trailered to events.
I read until I needed glasses before I bought my lift.
My buddies and I did all the work with no problems. I love the way it looks and more so performs.
If you have any direct questions, fire away.
Thanks for responding.

So I don't need this part but would help with more control and the "death wobble" especially if I got 35s, correct?
Amazon.com: Teraflex 1753418 Adjustable Track Bar: Automotive

Then I can get this lift kit but would just need to buy the shocks for it correct?
Teraflex Wrangler 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/Shock Adapters 1352002 (07-14 Wrangler JK 2 Door) - Free Shipping

Then I can buy these shocks
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...FdCCfgodpBIABw

Kind of understand the need of the exhaust spacers, so I think im gonna want this as well.
| TeraFlex Suspensions

Lastly, to be honest I don't understand the point of the Rancho drop brackets, can someone explain the use of it for me, thanks.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:54 AM   #13
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I will tell you that the adjustable track bar is heavily built and is a great upgrade from stock. Stock will work but it will not center your axle. A 2.5 inch lift wont move the axle too much but it will move. It is your call on weather you want an adjustable one. After your lift you may notice that one tire looks outside the wheel well more than the other one. The upgrade I would not miss would be the Northridge bolt kit. The stock bolts have many issues that potentially cause death wobble (along with other stuff) The Northridge kit is a great preventative measure.
Northridge 4X4 Jeep JK Grade 8 Hardware kit

The TF lift you have is good.

The shocks from rancho are the ones ending in 29 and 30 with this lift.

Good on the exhaust spacers.

I didn't see anything on the front discos. Try these;
Jeep Wrangler JK Sway Bar Quicker Disconnect | Wrangler JK Sway Bar Disconnects

The Rancho drop brackets will restore driveability after a lift. Adjustable lower control arms can do the same thing for more money. There is a ton written on this forum about them. In short when you lift your axles angle changes. The brackets restore the axles angle to near stock. They are great for small lifts like this one. You could go without them and see how your Jeep handles and put them on at a later time. For my Jeep they are a necessity.
Once again only you know how you will use your Jeep and this is my opinion from what is working for me. I'm not a rock crawlin monster truck. Just a weekend mudder and light crawler that does a lot of road driving too. Good Luck.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianmm View Post
I have read past threads about this subject but am kinda confused about what's needed when lifting a JK. I have myself a 2013 2 door, I want 35s with a lift. Somethings I read are that im going to want to up my gears. Also, possibly get a tire carrier for the spare 35 because of the weight?

If it helps I want it mainly for looks but I want to take it offroad anytime I want, although i probably wont all the time. What i'm looking at getting is this kit

Amazon.com: Rock Krawler JK3501 3.5 Inch Mid Arm Flex Suspension System by Rock Krawler: Automotive

I haven't decided on tires but definitely want 35s. I'm just really confused with people mentioning I would probably need a new front and rear axle etc etc. Can someone dumb it down for me and tell me what else I would need for a 2013 Automatic Sport? I'm talking about everything for the lift and 35s.I'm sorry about asking a popular subject, thank you.
Just thought I'd mention Rock Krawler lift heights are very underrated, My 1.5" gave me app. 2.5" with heavy bumpers, armor, 35's etc. I would say their 2.5" kit would give 3-3.5" of lift. In fact RK recommends the 1.5" kit for a 2dr running 35's, send them a message on here and they will help you with the decision. Their lifts are top quality and mine rides MUCH better than my previous teraflex kit, They also have great product warranty.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:07 PM   #15
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regarding the 35's on the tire carrier, there are several cheap options so you don't have to focus your time on getting everything all at once. wheels/tires are expensive as well as a lift.

cheap... smittybilt tire carrier - $120ish
cheaper... mbrp tailgate reinforcement - $30ish
cheapest... don't run a spare
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ed View Post
I will tell you that the adjustable track bar is heavily built and is a great upgrade from stock. Stock will work but it will not center your axle. A 2.5 inch lift wont move the axle too much but it will move. It is your call on weather you want an adjustable one. After your lift you may notice that one tire looks outside the wheel well more than the other one. The upgrade I would not miss would be the Northridge bolt kit. The stock bolts have many issues that potentially cause death wobble (along with other stuff) The Northridge kit is a great preventative measure.
Northridge 4X4 Jeep JK Grade 8 Hardware kit

The TF lift you have is good.

The shocks from rancho are the ones ending in 29 and 30 with this lift.

Good on the exhaust spacers.

I didn't see anything on the front discos. Try these;
Jeep Wrangler JK Sway Bar Quicker Disconnect | Wrangler JK Sway Bar Disconnects

The Rancho drop brackets will restore driveability after a lift. Adjustable lower control arms can do the same thing for more money. There is a ton written on this forum about them. In short when you lift your axles angle changes. The brackets restore the axles angle to near stock. They are great for small lifts like this one. You could go without them and see how your Jeep handles and put them on at a later time. For my Jeep they are a necessity.
Once again only you know how you will use your Jeep and this is my opinion from what is working for me. I'm not a rock crawlin monster truck. Just a weekend mudder and light crawler that does a lot of road driving too. Good Luck.

Thanks you, I kind of understand a little bit more on how everything works, but i know i'm going to have to look into each and every item to actually get a good idea of it(fun).

So here's my wish list:

Track bar Adjustable $234
Amazon.com: Teraflex 1753418 Adjustable Track Bar: Automotive

Bolts $45
Northridge 4X4 Jeep JK Grade 8 Hardware kit

Disconnects $175
Jeep Wrangler JK Sway Bar Quicker Disconnect | Wrangler JK Sway Bar Disconnects

Rancho shocks 29/30 $300 if i do mail in rebate
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...FdCCfgodpBIABw

Tere 2.5 Lift $500
Teraflex Wrangler 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/Shock Adapters 1352002 (07-14 Wrangler JK 2 Door) - Free Shipping

Exhaust Spacers $50
| TeraFlex Suspensions

Total $1315,not including re gearing or tires and wheels *ouch*

Re-gear is about $2000 and tires and wheels around $1500?

all in all its gonna be about $4800 in total for everything, if I hold on on the Tire Carriers I want.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:49 AM   #17
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Thanks you, I kind of understand a little bit more on how everything works, but i know i'm going to have to look into each and every item to actually get a good idea of it(fun). So here's my wish list: Track bar Adjustable $234 Amazon.com: Teraflex 1753418 Adjustable Track Bar: Automotive Bolts $45 Northridge 4X4 Jeep JK Grade 8 Hardware kit Disconnects $175 Jeep Wrangler JK Sway Bar Quicker Disconnect | Wrangler JK Sway Bar Disconnects Rancho shocks 29/30 $300 if i do mail in rebate http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...FdCCfgodpBIABw Tere 2.5 Lift $500 Teraflex Wrangler 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/Shock Adapters 1352002 (07-14 Wrangler JK 2 Door) - Free Shipping Exhaust Spacers $50 | TeraFlex Suspensions Total $1315,not including re gearing or tires and wheels *ouch* Re-gear is about $2000 and tires and wheels around $1500? all in all its gonna be about $4800 in total for everything, if I hold on on the Tire Carriers I want.
Tires and wheels will be more then 1500, especially for 5. Rims will be like 1k and the tires will be 1400 give or take. Basically it's all expensive.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:31 AM   #18
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Sounds good but do look into the drop brackets too. Like I said, you don't have to buy them now but drive it a bit and see what it handles like. You can then make a decision. They aren't terribly expensive but make a big difference in the handling. Like I also said that LCA's also do the same thing as brackets at more $$$ but more clearance underneath too. Have fun.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:54 AM   #19
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Just went through the same thing. Ordered my parts Friday, they are set to start arriving today. Went with a TF 2.5 lift from extreme terrain. Look for xtryan (ryanxt, I forget which) on this forum. Send him a pm and he can get you a better deal than listed.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:55 AM   #20
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:10 AM   #21
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Tires and wheels will be more then 1500, especially for 5. Rims will be like 1k and the tires will be 1400 give or take. Basically it's all expensive.
Mine was $1,590 out the door, but that was for (5) Rims (Level 8 Strike 5's) and (5) Toyo 285/70/17s, definitely not 35's though.
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:47 AM   #22
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I went with 5-35/12.5/15" BFG MT KM2s mounted on these wheels for $1650.

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Using 15" tires saved me enough to almost pay for my wheels. Bought from Discount tire direct, they guaranteed the wheels to fit (clear the calipers). Imo Jeeps are one of the few vehicles that look good with more sidewall. This is my TJ with 35/12.5/15 MT/Rs

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Old 09-08-2014, 07:52 AM   #23
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If you buy tires from Discount Tires Direct, look at their warranties, too. Cheap peace of mind for tires so expensive. One bad tire more than pays for the warranties on all five.

I know someone will want to say warranties are not worth it statistically, but when you're planning to take tires off road and beat the snot out of them, I think your chance of needing the warranty goes much higher than typical statistics would bear out.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:02 AM   #24
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If you buy tires from Discount Tires Direct, look at their warranties, too. Cheap peace of mind for tires so expensive. One bad tire more than pays for the warranties on all five.

I know someone will want to say warranties are not worth it statistically, but when you're planning to take tires off road and beat the snot out of them, I think your chance of needing the warranty goes much higher than typical statistics would bear out.
Yup, $150 for lifetime replacement on mine, not included in above price.

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