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Old 05-09-2013, 09:26 PM   #91
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Looks great Charlie.
Thanks, man!

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Old 05-24-2013, 11:56 AM   #92
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Subscribed ... and thanks!

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Old 05-24-2013, 02:57 PM   #93
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Hi Matador,
Will I be able to run 35s with the MC 2.5 lift on a 2012 JKUR without any issues?
What are your thoughts on using the Rancho adjustable shocks (6000 I believe) as oppose to the OME shocks that are optional with the MC kit, looking for softer On road performance!
And lastly how much of an impact would 35s have on the jeep with 3.73 gear?
Thank you for the informative thread.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:05 PM   #94
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Hi Matador,
Will I be able to run 35’s with the MC 2.5” lift on a 2012 JKUR without any issues?
What are your thoughts on using the Rancho adjustable shocks (6000 I believe) as oppose to the OME shocks that are optional with the MC kit, looking for softer On road performance!
And lastly how much of an impact would 35’s have on the jeep with 3.73 gear?
Thank you for the informative thread.
You will be able to run 35's with pretty much any 2.5" kit. Being that you have the newer engine the 3.73's should be fine with 35's. I have 3.21's with 35's an its fine with me.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:08 PM   #95
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Hi Matador,
Will I be able to run 35’s with the MC 2.5” lift on a 2012 JKUR without any issues?
What are your thoughts on using the Rancho adjustable shocks (6000 I believe) as oppose to the OME shocks that are optional with the MC kit, looking for softer On road performance!
And lastly how much of an impact would 35’s have on the jeep with 3.73 gear?
Thank you for the informative thread.
Max do you have any aftermarket bumpers, winch skids etc.? The reason I ask is because of the weight. Suspension companies estimate their kit lift amount based on a fully loaded Jeep. If your Jeep is stock and you install the MC 2.5" kit your going to be getting around a 3.5-4" lift. At that type of height you should have no problems running 35's, just keep an eye on your pinch seam and rubi rail, they might need to be trimmed. If your running a fully loaded Jeep and you do come in at 2.5" then you "might" need to trim your fenders. You definitely would need to trim them if you plan on doing any offroading.

In terms of the shocks, the Ranchos are nice. The firmness adjustability is a great option and allows you to dial it in based on your personal preference. With that said, I think that the MC kit is better paired with a set of OME nitro shocks. I also think that the Nitro shocks are an overall better quality shock than the Rancho. I think they will hold up better over time. My advice for you would be to find someone local running a set of OME shocks and ask them to take you for a test drive. You'll be able to tell if its something that you can live with. If they aren't then go with the Rancho.

The 3.73 gearing is a tricky one and more dependent on where you live. If you have a lot of steep hills in your day-today driving, the 3.73 gearing might be annoying. Kurtz, here on the forum has a JKUR and is running heavy kevlar 35's with 3.73. He notices the power loss but in our area its not a big problem since we don't have steep hills. The new engine and transmission is really stout and capable, so you won't damage anything running 35's on your Jeep with 3.73, it will just be a bit slower. Not a terrible thing for a vehicle with a max speed of 100mph and as aerodynamic as a brick.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #96
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Hey everybody!!! New to this forum. Finally got my first jeep this past weekend. New 2012 wragler JK SAHARA colormatched hard top. Gecko pearl. I love this thing fun to drive wish I would've gotten one of these sooner. Wanna get it lifted. What is a good recommended lift height for this type of jeep? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Will lifting it affect my warranty?
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:21 PM   #97
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You will be able to run 35's with pretty much any 2.5" kit. Being that you have the newer engine the 3.73's should be fine with 35's. I have 3.21's with 35's an its fine with me.

Thanks OffRoadCam09 that is good to know that your 3.21 is working well with 35s.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:25 PM   #98
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Hey everybody!!! New to this forum. Finally got my first jeep this past weekend. New 2012 wragler JK SAHARA colormatched hard top. Gecko pearl. I love this thing fun to drive wish I would've gotten one of these sooner. Wanna get it lifted. What is a good recommended lift height for this type of jeep? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Will lifting it affect my warranty?
Lol start with page 1 in this thread decide what you will use your jeep for and a budget oh and welcome
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:32 PM   #99
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Max do you have any aftermarket bumpers, winch skids etc.? The reason I ask is because of the weight. Suspension companies estimate their kit lift amount based on a fully loaded Jeep. If your Jeep is stock and you install the MC 2.5" kit your going to be getting around a 3.5-4" lift. At that type of height you should have no problems running 35's, just keep an eye on your pinch seam and rubi rail, they might need to be trimmed. If your running a fully loaded Jeep and you do come in at 2.5" then you "might" need to trim your fenders. You definitely would need to trim them if you plan on doing any offroading.

In terms of the shocks, the Ranchos are nice. The firmness adjustability is a great option and allows you to dial it in based on your personal preference. With that said, I think that the MC kit is better paired with a set of OME nitro shocks. I also think that the Nitro shocks are an overall better quality shock than the Rancho. I think they will hold up better over time. My advice for you would be to find someone local running a set of OME shocks and ask them to take you for a test drive. You'll be able to tell if its something that you can live with. If they aren't then go with the Rancho.

The 3.73 gearing is a tricky one and more dependent on where you live. If you have a lot of steep hills in your day-today driving, the 3.73 gearing might be annoying. Kurtz, here on the forum has a JKUR and is running heavy kevlar 35's with 3.73. He notices the power loss but in our area its not a big problem since we don't have steep hills. The new engine and transmission is really stout and capable, so you won't damage anything running 35's on your Jeep with 3.73, it will just be a bit slower. Not a terrible thing for a vehicle with a max speed of 100mph and as aerodynamic as a brick.
Thanks Matador,
I do have a fully loaded jeep both front and back so 2.5 lift is what I am going to get. And that is what I want, I am hoping to avoid trimming the pinch seam and Rubi rails, I guess it will also depend on the wheels back spacing as well right?
Would you say that the OME shocks are about the same stiffness as the stock Rubi shocks or softer?
Thanks
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:31 PM   #100
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I decided that I'm okay with linear springs. Just picked up a 2.5" TF kit w/shock extensions and the exhaust spacer kit for $460.78 delivered. Do you reckon I should eventually add adjustable lower control arms and f/r tracking bars? What would be the next logical upgrade? It's a Rubicon so I figured the shocks are okay. ... Are they?

Thanks a lot for your write-up.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:15 PM   #101
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Thanx so much for the 411 everybody. I will def check out the first page.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:11 PM   #102
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Hi Matador,
Will I be able to run 35’s with the MC 2.5” lift on a 2012 JKUR without any issues?
What are your thoughts on using the Rancho adjustable shocks (6000 I believe) as oppose to the OME shocks that are optional with the MC kit, looking for softer On road performance!
And lastly how much of an impact would 35’s have on the jeep with 3.73 gear?
Thank you for the informative thread.

Anyone have any comments on 3.73 gears vs 3.21 gears and gas mileage when throwing on some 35's? I have a pentastar and probably won't do 35's as mine is a DD, but I'd like to do something bigger eventually (maybe 33's).

Maybe I should just wait for gas to get cheaper!
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:38 PM   #103
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Anyone have any comments on 3.73 gears vs 3.21 gears and gas mileage when throwing on some 35's? I have a pentastar and probably won't do 35's as mine is a DD, but I'd like to do something bigger eventually (maybe 33's).

Maybe I should just wait for gas to get cheaper!
I have 33s and the 3.73 gears. Dd, mix of highway and local. I usually get around 19 mpg.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:55 PM   #104
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Anyone have any comments on 3.73 gears vs 3.21 gears and gas mileage when throwing on some 35's? I have a pentastar and probably won't do 35's as mine is a DD, but I'd like to do something bigger eventually (maybe 33's).

Maybe I should just wait for gas to get cheaper!
It would be better to have 3.73 with 35's but I do run 3.21's with 35's on my 13 sport an get 18 mpg an it isn't that bad at all. Downshifts on steep inclines but that's to be expected
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:29 PM   #105
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You guys must be talking highway mileage. I'm getting closer to 14mpg with 33s in the city.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:59 PM   #106
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I'm not Matador, but let me take a crack at this question . . .

Matador of course couldn't create a write-up for every kit out there. He had to make some choices about which to include in this thread, and the RC kit you mention didn't make it.

More importantly though, the kits Matador have included in this thread are all quintessential, well known, and popular examples of their type.

The RC kit you refer to is probably the cheapest spring kit on the market. It's a "discount brand" sold at "discount" prices. Like Harbor Freight tools and Wal-Mart brand clothes.

....
So what about the Rubicon Express RE7121?
Rubicon Express Part RE7141M - 2.5" Standard Coil Suspension System with Mono Tube Shocks-RH1

Is it in the same category as the RCs?
If not what is the lift/wheel clearance/pro/con/ for it?
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:23 PM   #107
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So what about the Rubicon Express RE7121?
Rubicon Express Part RE7141M - 2.5" Standard Coil Suspension System with Mono Tube Shocks-RH1

Is it in the same category as the RCs?
If not what is the lift/wheel clearance/pro/con/ for it?
I'd put RE above RC, but a voice in my head (based on nothing specific really) wants to put them below MetalCloak, Full Traction, AEV, TeraFlex, Clayton, Rock Krawler, etc.

RE used to be really good, but the company was bought out a few years ago. The consensus seems to be that it's a "middle of the road" brand now.

I have no personal experience to determine whether that's accurate. And even if it is, that's not necessarily bad.

The kit you linked basically looks like RE's answer to this kit by TeraFlex. They're similarly priced, and I'd expect them to behave similarly. My only concern would be that TeraFlex is more popular here, so it might be the safer bet.
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:30 PM   #108
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Hers is a good rule of thumb when looking at kits. Anything that will net you more than a 2" lift and doesn't address axle alignment and caster angle by providing a solution for track bars or control arms, probably isn't a good choice.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:47 PM   #109
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I decided that I'm okay with linear springs. Just picked up a 2.5" TF kit w/shock extensions and the exhaust spacer kit for $460.78 delivered. Do you reckon I should eventually add adjustable lower control arms and f/r tracking bars? What would be the next logical upgrade? It's a Rubicon so I figured the shocks are okay. ... Are they?

Thanks a lot for your write-up.
^This question for me, too. I have the same kit being installed tomorrow and having read this whole thread, I'm not sure if I need to replace the trackbar or not.

Also, even though the TF kit says it requires 3.5" backspacing, the guy at the shop said not true and he could put the kit on a JKU with stock wheels. Is he magic, or what does he know that I don't?
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:10 PM   #110
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^This question for me, too. I have the same kit being installed tomorrow and having read this whole thread, I'm not sure if I need to replace the trackbar or not.

Also, even though the TF kit says it requires 3.5" backspacing, the guy at the shop said not true and he could put the kit on a JKU with stock wheels. Is he magic, or what does he know that I don't?
You "might" be ale to get away with it because you won't be replacing the lower front control arms but if your running longer rear sway bar links they might hit the tire.

But, like I had mentioned, any kit that give you more than a 2" lift needs to address the track bars and control arms to a certain degree.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:58 PM   #111
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You "might" be ale to get away with it because you won't be replacing the lower front control arms but if your running longer rear sway bar links they might hit the tire.

But, like I had mentioned, any kit that give you more than a 2" lift needs to address the track bars and control arms to a certain degree.
Let me see if I understand. Since I don't want to go any higher than 2.5", phase 2 of my lift will be control arms and trackbar which will improve the ride and handling? But if/when I replace the control arms, I will have to go to 3.5" backspacing for sure?

Thanks for sharing your expertise.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:37 AM   #112
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Let me see if I understand. Since I don't want to go any higher than 2.5", phase 2 of my lift will be control arms and trackbar which will improve the ride and handling? But if/when I replace the control arms, I will have to go to 3.5" backspacing for sure?

Thanks for sharing your expertise.
depending on what you get. Metal cloak front lower control arms retain the same curve in as the stock arms and you probably won't need to replace the stock wheels. They also sell spacers for the rear sway bar links to avoid contact. In either case your talking about very tight tolerances and it still has the possibility of rubbing. If you insist on running stock wheels on a 2.5" lift I would suggest finding a set of used spacers just in case you face clearance issues. If it turns out that you marginally clear everything, just turn around and sell the spacers, there is always a market for used spacers.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:53 PM   #113
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depending on what you get. Metal cloak front lower control arms retain the same curve in as the stock arms and you probably won't need to replace the stock wheels. They also sell spacers for the rear sway bar links to avoid contact. In either case your talking about very tight tolerances and it still has the possibility of rubbing. If you insist on running stock wheels on a 2.5" lift I would suggest finding a set of used spacers just in case you face clearance issues. If it turns out that you marginally clear everything, just turn around and sell the spacers, there is always a market for used spacers.
It's not that I insist on running stock wheels. It's that I picked up a set of custom wheels with about 5.25" backspacing at a good price. The guy said he would exchange them for something else if they don't work with the lift. It sounds like changing them out would be the best thing to do to keep my options open in the future.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:57 AM   #114
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It's not that I insist on running stock wheels. It's that I picked up a set of custom wheels with about 5.25" backspacing at a good price. The guy said he would exchange them for something else if they don't work with the lift. It sounds like changing them out would be the best thing to do to keep my options open in the future.
If you can do that, I would suggest you go in that direction. Less of a headache all around. I would also suggest that you try to go with wheels that are "Hubcentric" instead of "Lugcentric" both the AEV and Rugged Ridge wheels are Hubcentric.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:06 PM   #115
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Hi Matador,
So if you were to rank the top 3 lift kits that you have reviewed, would it look like this;
1-MC
2- AEV
3- Terra Flex
Or????
Thanks
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:34 PM   #116
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Hi Matador,
So if you were to rank the top 3 lift kits that you have reviewed, would it look like this;
1-MC
2- AEV
3- Terra Flex
Or????
Thanks
Unfortunately it doesn't work like that. Choosing a lift should be based on what you intend to do with it.

If your asking for my opinion I would start with saying that they all pretty much can get you through most situations and can each handle most of the terrain that the other can, BUT I feel they are each more specialized in a certain area and shine more than the others in certain situations. For example....

Highway driving: I would give AEV the edge. Any other LCG (low center of gravity) lift will have a focus on highway comfort and handling but AEV's geometry brackets prove to outshine them all.

Rock Crawling: This one is tough, because in terms of toughness I would probably give it Rock Krawler. Their stuff is built to take a serious beating and is designed for optimal clearance in key areas. They also have a lifetime warranty on hard parts. BUT, Metal Cloak has an advantage when it comes to articulation. I feel that their control arm joints are a better option and provide the ability for much more flexing.

Beach Sand: whenever your talking about sand you have to consider corrosion. So if your in an area that salts the roads during the winter and you like to go on the beach I would opt for Metal Cloak because of their zinc coating on everything, it helps with protecting their parts from the elements.

So that's how I would break down the big 3. Again, they all can do well in each environment but usually one out shines over the others. Teraflex is a great company and a very close 4th option but I don't feel it beats any of the 3 in those categories. That's just my opinion.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:02 PM   #117
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But, like I had mentioned, any kit that give you more than a 2" lift needs to address the track bars and control arms to a certain degree.
The TF kit came with a bracket to adjust the track bar. I have traded out my wheels for ones with -12 offset and 4.5" backspacing. Hopefully, that puts me in a good position for the future.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:51 AM   #118
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I have a question for those of you "in the know" regarding my '13 JKU Sahara. I need to level it out without raising the rear of the jeep at all or it won't fit in my garage. I am going to use coil spacers in front only but am unsure as to what size. One seller mentioned that the "factory coil isolators" add 3/4" if used along with added spacers. What size do I need to buy? Thanks, Max.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:39 AM   #119
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I have a question for those of you "in the know" regarding my '13 JKU Sahara. I need to level it out without raising the rear of the jeep at all or it won't fit in my garage. I am going to use coil spacers in front only but am unsure as to what size. One seller mentioned that the "factory coil isolators" add 3/4" if used along with added spacers. What size do I need to buy? Thanks, Max.
Check with Terra-Flex, their Leveling Kit may only raise the front with the back remaining at the stock height.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:01 AM   #120
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Thanks, Ray. I plan on using only the fronts, be they Teraflex, Daystar or whatever. My problem is not knowing for sure what size to get.

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