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Old 03-09-2012, 12:02 AM   #31
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He did a writeup in Project JK back in December, but they weren't available to the public for the '12's @ the time.

Which is fine, cuz I had bigger fish to reel in. Just getting around to armor now.
They're going to look pretty sweet

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Old 03-09-2012, 12:10 AM   #32
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They're going to look pretty sweet
They're actually black. The red ones are just for photo purposes. Wonder how many people don't read the fine print, and get a case of the redass when they open the box and find black skids.

Tough world.

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Old 03-09-2012, 12:12 AM   #33
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They're actually black. The red ones are just for photo purposes. Wonder how many people don't read the fine print, and get a case of the redass when they open the box and find black skids.

Tough world.
Haha, the red would have been too flashy for your ride; I was counting on the black, and it being built like a tank
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:10 AM   #34
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These are on my list for next month.

EVO: Bumper/Armor/Skids, EVO MFG(5) ProTeK Skid System for 2012 Jeep JK Wranglers


Still gotta figure out some protection for the diffs.
I just had the Evo system installed + Poison Spyder diff covers last week.

I already had rock rails and figure I'll stick with the stock skids over the evap and gas tank and start with what wasn't already covered.

I figured the Evo 3 piece system for $399 is a great deal considering for that price you usually just get 1 skid.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:54 AM   #35
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myself, I'm a fan of

1. rock sliders/rocker guards
2. evap skid
3. oil pan skid (which ties directly into...
4. tranny skid (there are a number of systems that simply protect both, rockhard 4x4 and evo are the first two to come to mind)

anything after that is really dependent on the type of wheeling you do, and what you find yourself dinging up. Things like diff covers and LCA skids are nice extra protection to add on, but not really needed unless your constantly dropping onto rocks. I don't really agree with replacing the transfer case skids or gas skids, just because the factory is good enough, unless you destroy them. Also if you have a rubi, flipping the quick disco motor is a good idea, or skidding it. Other protection mods you should do are get a steering stabilizer relocation kit, as the factory location leaves it prone to a good bashing
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:27 AM   #36
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Looking at doing diffs./oil pan. I did the evap relocation on mine. Seen the skid not help when hit hard. Just my thoughts
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:41 AM   #37
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In the pre 2012 3.8l v6 and with the proper gearing---there will be no effect of the additional armor weight--and tire weigh difference means NOTHING, in the JKU, it might in the JK-

I use Rockhard® oilpan armor, because they're one of the few that provide protection for the Fumoto® draiin valve-

I'd recommend the diff. covers, over the diff skids, cause most skids make changing the diff fluid, a little more time consuming-

None of the mfgs make JUNK--but ACE stuff takes more "fitting", or so--as I've read, I don't use any of their stuff !

It's a jungle out there-

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Old 03-09-2012, 09:49 AM   #38
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--ROCKHARD®--the strongest-




I've also got some Poison Spyder®--

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+1
I'm using the RockHard underbody skids, Expedition One Rubi Skid, Poison Spyder Brawler Rocker sliders, and Poison Spyder EVAP skid. I'm still trying to decide on diff covers or diff skids.

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I just had the Evo system installed + Poison Spyder diff covers last week.

I already had rock rails and figure I'll stick with the stock skids over the evap and gas tank and start with what wasn't already covered.

I figured the Evo 3 piece system for $399 is a great deal considering for that price you usually just get 1 skid.
The EVO skids look great. Does the engine skid transfer any engine vibration to the Jeep because the skid is bolted directly to the oil pan? Since I haven't seen the install directions, maybe the EVO setup uses rubber vibration isolation where the engine skid connects near the crossmember? When I saw that the skid bolted directly to the engine's oil pan, I was also wondering if there were any issues when the engine rocked under acceleration that would move the skid and cause other issues?
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:57 AM   #39
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I can't comment on that, my Rockhard oil pan has about 3/4" clearance on the pan bottom and attaches to the frame/crossmember-


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+1
I'm using the RockHard underbody skids, Expedition One Rubi Skid, Poison Spyder Brawler Rocker sliders, and Poison Spyder EVAP skid. I'm still trying to decide on diff covers or diff skids.


The EVO skids look great. Does the engine skid transfer any engine vibration to the Jeep because the skid is bolted directly to the oil pan? Since I haven't seen the install directions, maybe the EVO setup uses rubber vibration isolation where the engine skid connects near the crossmember? When I saw that the skid bolted directly to the engine's oil pan, I was also wondering if there were any issues when the engine rocked under acceleration that would move the skid and cause other issues?
I wouldn't want the oil pan skid attached to the oil pan, too many points for trouble-


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Old 03-09-2012, 10:02 AM   #40
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The EVO skids look great. Does the engine skid transfer any engine vibration to the Jeep because the skid is bolted directly to the oil pan? Since I haven't seen the install directions, maybe the EVO setup uses rubber vibration isolation where the engine skid connects near the crossmember? When I saw that the skid bolted directly to the engine's oil pan, I was also wondering if there were any issues when the engine rocked under acceleration that would move the skid and cause other issues?
I have not noticed any additional vibrations from mine. It does install on top of the rubber isolators. No other issues so far after 2 months installed and multiple off road drives.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:06 AM   #41
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I'll be going fot the Pure Jeep Evap relocator and skid since it does both. That is first for now. I already got Poly LCA skids. I'll get diff covers when my gears come in.

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Old 03-09-2012, 10:09 AM   #42
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I'll be going fot the Pure Jeep Evap relocator and skid since it does both. That is first for now. I already got Poly LCA skids. I'll get diff covers when my gears come in.
-Dan
What gears you going to? Manual or auto? Just curious.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:10 AM   #43
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I can't comment on that, my Rockhard oil pan has about 3/4" clearance on the pan bottom and attaches to the frame/crossmember-




I wouldn't want the oil pan skid attached to the oil pan, too many points for trouble-


JIMBO
I have the same RockHard engine skid. It doesn't touch the engine so there is not vibration transfer or skid movement. I was wondering if the EVO design might be a problem with engine vibration transfer, torque rocking the engine that would cause the skid to move, and the direct contact of the skid with the engine's oil pan that might be another point of contention with protection from rocks/logs. Instead of the skid taking the impact, the engine still gets hit, it just has more steel between it and the obstacle that hit it.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:14 AM   #44
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What gears you going to? Manual or auto? Just curious.
I am going to 5.13's, I am a 3.8L auto.

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Old 03-09-2012, 10:14 AM   #45
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I have not noticed any additional vibrations from mine. It does install on top of the rubber isolators. No other issues so far after 2 months installed and multiple off road drives.
Good to hear that there is no vibration issue. Are you talking about rubber isolators where the skid bolts near the crossmember because the oil pan doesn't have any rubber isolators on it? Is the back of the skid using the rubber isolators from the transmission? If it uses the transmission, then movement is probably not an issue either because the engine and transmission would rock together. The skid would still move, but it would be in unison with the engine and transmisssion.

Of course that would bring up another point. If the skid is bolted to the engine oil pan and the transmission, any impact would transfer energy to both of them instead of to the frame. Also, if you get high centered on the skid, the weight of the Jeep will be held up by the engine and transmission instead of the frame. I don't know if that is a valid concern, but something to consider.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:28 AM   #46
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Good to hear that there is no vibration issue. Are you talking about rubber isolators where the skid bolts near the crossmember because the oil pan doesn't have any rubber isolators on it? Is the back of the skid using the rubber isolators from the transmission? If it uses the transmission, then movement is probably not an issue either because the engine and transmission would rock together. The skid would still move, but it would be in unison with the engine and transmisssion.
Yes the rubber isolators in the back under the tranny mounting plate. Getting those bolts off was the most difficult part of the install for me. From Project JK:

Click image for larger version

Name:	Isolator.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	115.5 KB
ID:	103419

To get high centered on the oil pan or tranny skid while not on the axle, that would have to be a very strange situation since the axle and diff and cross skid (edited, didn't mean rock rails) and LCAs all hang well below the oil pan. I wanted the skid to protect against the random rock or log sticking up bumping the pan or tranny cooler line, especially if I were to flex down after the axle cleared or something.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:32 AM   #47
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River Raider has some nice skids too

-Dan
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:37 AM   #48
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I am going to 5.13's, I am a 3.8L auto.

-Dan
My guess is that this will become this
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:39 AM   #49
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Yes the rubber isolators in the back under the tranny mounting plate. Getting those bolts off was the most difficult part of the install for me. From Project JK:

Attachment 103419

To get high centered on the oil pan or tranny skid while not on the axle, that would have to be a very strange situation since the axle and diff and rock rails and LCAs all hang well below the oil pan. I wanted the skid to protect against the random rock or log sticking up bumping the pan or tranny cooler line, especially if I were to flex down after the axle cleared or something.
If you've never been high centered on your transmission, you're picking too easy of a line. Just put it in second, and give it all shes got!
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:43 AM   #50
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If you've never been high centered on your transmission, you're picking too easy of a line. Just put it in second, and give it all shes got!
Hahahaha...a classic quote.

Kids, don't follow that advice.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:43 AM   #51
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If you've never been high centered on your transmission, you're picking too easy of a line. Just put it in second, and give it all shes got!
I'm still a newb. Give me time. I've only been high centered once and it was in mud and I was good and stuck.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:44 AM   #52
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Here here-


Quote:
Originally Posted by RoobyRoo View Post
Yes the rubber isolators in the back under the tranny mounting plate. Getting those bolts off was the most difficult part of the install for me. From Project JK:

Attachment 103419

To get high centered on the oil pan or tranny skid while not on the axle, that would have to be a very strange situation since the axle and diff and cross skid (edited, didn't mean rock rails) and LCAs all hang well below the oil pan. I wanted the skid to protect against the random rock or log sticking up bumping the pan or tranny cooler line, especially if I were to flex down after the axle cleared or something.
Thats why I used the Rockhard and to protect my Fumoto valve !

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My guess is that this will become this
--BINGO--

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Old 03-09-2012, 10:50 AM   #53
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Thats why I used the Rockhard and to protect my Fumoto valve !
Fumoto valve...cool.

Can always count on Jimbo to show me something to add to my mods list.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:52 AM   #54
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Evap skid is worthless. I have one and never even put it on. never even touched my evap to the day.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:54 AM   #55
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Heh Heh, thanx RR, just remember--using the Fumoto, you have to make arrangements/modifications for "accidents"-


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Fumoto valve...cool.

Can always count on Jimbo to show me something to add to my mods list.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:17 AM   #56
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Evap skid is worthless. I have one and never even put it on. never even touched my evap to the day.
ignore this man. how do we report a post for being awful and wrong? get an evap skid. do it. I didn't, I always made fun of it, and then I drove over a log and removed it. sure, it was easy to get a new one, but then I spent 3 months chasing evap issues. Just skid it up and be done with it. It's the lowest hanging part of your jeep besides the diffs and control arms. just remember every time you put a ding on your gas skid, that could have just as easily been your evap!
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #57
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Evap skid is worthless. I have one and never even put it on. never even touched my evap to the day.
You will, at some point, and they break, and they're expensive. The poison spider skid not only protects the evap, but it relocates it higher so contact is less likely.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:27 AM   #58
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Heh Heh-


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Evap skid is worthless. I have one and never even put it on. never even touched my evap to the day.
From what I hear--even malls can be dangerous, you know--curbs !

Quote:
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ignore this man. how do we report a post for being awful and wrong? get an evap skid. do it. I didn't, I always made fun of it, and then I drove over a log and removed it. sure, it was easy to get a new one, but then I spent 3 months chasing evap issues. Just skid it up and be done with it. It's the lowest hanging part of your jeep besides the diffs and control arms. just remember every time you put a ding on your gas skid, that could have just as easily been your evap!
---BINGO-

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You will, at some point, and they break, and they're expensive. The poison spider skid not only protects the evap, but it relocates it higher so contact is less likely.
Good advice-

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Old 03-09-2012, 11:29 AM   #59
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You will, at some point, and they break, and they're expensive. The poison spider skid not only protects the evap, but it relocates it higher so contact is less likely.
to slighty contridict myself, replacing a destroyed evap system is cheap and easy. something like 50-60 bucks. you need the evap pump, and the canister. easy enough to pull the old one off, put the new one on. really the trouble you get into is the connectors. those are fairly delicate, especially the electric one.

so while I highly recommend the skid, it is worth pointing out that for the cost of an evap skid, you can pay for 2 replacement evaps (essentially 3 total)
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:55 AM   #60
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It's been said but get a Diff Cover to replace the stock one. At least for the front. It hangs low and a solid cover is not very expensive. It's 3-4 times as thick. The bolts that come with it are longer and most are recessed so you don't take the head off of them like I did. Add a lube locker for $22 so you don't have to mess with the sealant and I have read the lube locker will hold better if you hit something hard and the cover shifts slightly. Plus you can paint it to match your Jeep. You needed to change that diff fluid anyway right.

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