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Old 03-09-2012, 11:57 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sneck View Post
to slighty contridict myself, replacing a destroyed evap system is cheap and easy. something like 50-60 bucks. you need the evap pump, and the canister. easy enough to pull the old one off, put the new one on. really the trouble you get into is the connectors. those are fairly delicate, especially the electric one.

so while I highly recommend the skid, it is worth pointing out that for the cost of an evap skid, you can pay for 2 replacement evaps (essentially 3 total)
If you count the money to buy the new evap canister, your time to go get a new evap, your time to install it, and the added hassle of needing to replace it in the first place, the skid is cheaper. After replacing the broken evap can, you are still in danger of repeating the damage.

I agree with you on getting the evap skid protection to avoid the hassle. I bought my Poison Spyder evap skid for $105. My 2012 already had a stock evap skid, but the Poison Spyder skid provides more clearance for the rear driveshaft. I've seen photos of people that have hit the rear driveshaft boot on the stock evap canister skid.

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Old 03-09-2012, 12:33 PM   #62
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ignore this man. how do we report a post for being awful and wrong? get an evap skid. do it. I didn't, I always made fun of it, and then I drove over a log and removed it. sure, it was easy to get a new one, but then I spent 3 months chasing evap issues. Just skid it up and be done with it. It's the lowest hanging part of your jeep besides the diffs and control arms. just remember every time you put a ding on your gas skid, that could have just as easily been your evap!

coming from a guy who cant even cut a pinch seam and drives over logs.

its really the lowest hanging part of your jeep? beside diffs and control arms? you sir take the cake for being an idiot

you chased 3 months of evap issues because your an idiot


dont buy the evap skid.


try relocating it for ten bucks.

skiding evap canister, last

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Old 03-09-2012, 12:45 PM   #63
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your an idiot


you are = you're. I know, I know, just a typo. It's just funny in that context.

Man, relax. No need to attack people.

My 2012 has an evap skid. It's about as thick a aluminum foil though.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:47 PM   #64
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coming from a guy who cant even cut a pinch seam and drives over logs.

its really the lowest hanging part of your jeep? beside diffs and control arms? you sir take the cake for being an idiot

you chased 3 months of evap issues because your an idiot


dont buy the evap skid.


try relocating it for ten bucks.

skiding evap canister, last
relocation is protection just as skidding is. thing is, not everyone wants to relocate. but saying your skid is a waste because you didn't use it, but failing to point out you relocated, is a bit disingenuous

and since you said it. What's wrong with driving over a log?

either way, do something to protect the evap system. no reason not to; factory spot it's just waiting to take some damage
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:53 PM   #65
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this thread is a list of armor importance in order...

dont skid the evap relocate it.

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Old 03-09-2012, 01:22 PM   #66
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this thread is a list of armor importance in order...

dont skid the evap relocate it.

Relocation is definitely a valid option, but it makes some warranty issues harder to get done if your Jeep is still under warranty. Adding a skid doesn't impact warranty.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:28 PM   #67
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Relocation is definitely a valid option, but it makes some warranty issues harder to get done if your Jeep is still under warranty. Adding a skid doesn't impact warranty.
also, for folks looking at other changes down the line, that space is used when you do a 3-link conversion (the Rock Krawler lift is very popular with this), or even a coil over conversion (looking at you EVO double down!). obviously not an issue for all, but something to note
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:37 PM   #68
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also, for folks looking at other changes down the line, that space is used when you do a 3-link conversion (the Rock Krawler lift is very popular with this), or even a coil over conversion (looking at you EVO double down!). obviously not an issue for all, but something to note
Very true. I plan on upgrading my RK 3.5" Max Travel to the RK Long Arm 3-Link after my warranty is gone. The rear truss would not have enough clearance if the evap was relocated over the rear axle.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:18 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by bo9roadking
Very true. I plan on upgrading my RK 3.5" Max Travel to the RK Long Arm 3-Link after my warranty is gone. The rear truss would not have enough clearance if the evap was relocated over the rear axle.
It doesn't re locate over the axle, just higher
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:31 PM   #70
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FWIW, I first went with the following:

Smittybilt Side Armor;

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Full Width Front Bumper;

Skid Row Offroad Front Lower Control Arm Skid Plates;

Rancho RockGear Dana 44 Differential Covers (x2);

Rancho RockGear Front Differential Glide Plate; and

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Oil Pan, Transmission & Catalytic Converter Skid Plate.














Next stop:


$220 - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Transfer Case Skid Plate;

$360 - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Fuel Tank Skid Plate;

$100 - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Fuel Tank Breather [Evap] Skid Plate;

$130 - Synergy Suspension Rear Lower Control Arm Skids with Shock Mount;

$150 - Synergy Suspension Rear Long Travel Upper Shock Mount;

$65 - Synergy Suspension Inner C Upper & Lower Gusset Kit; and

$100- Synergy Suspension Front Inner Axle Sleeve Kit.

Ouch (again).
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:44 PM   #71
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I have to armor plate my keep due to all the hot chicks that try to kidnap me
And junk....
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:48 PM   #72
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I have to armor plate my keep due to all the hot chicks that try to kidnap me
And junk....
You need some chick armor, my friend.



I think that lion's about to get sick...
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:52 PM   #73
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You need some chick armor, my friend.



I think that lion's about to get sick...
Oh yeah? My chick can defeat your chick armor:

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Old 03-09-2012, 10:55 PM   #74
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Haha...but mine's got a pet lion. Granted, the lion looks like it's about to spew, but hey.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:58 PM   #75
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Haha...but mine's got a pet lion. Granted, the lion looks like it's about to spew, but hey.
He's just hungry. And she does have a cool lion breast plate, which is a nice touch.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:03 PM   #76
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He's just hungry. And she does have a cool lion breast plate, which is a nice touch.
Though it would be better if she had two of those lion protectors spread out a little laterally to protect the various protrusions. Just aesthetically, I mean.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:15 PM   #77
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Though it would be better if she had two of those lion protectors spread out a little laterally to protect the various protrusions. Just aesthetically, I mean.
A pincer movement kinda deal. I agree.

I'm a big fan of symmetry, too.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:26 PM   #78
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A pincer movement kinda deal. I agree.

I'm a big fan of symmetry, too.
I don't mind if they wiggle a bit outta center, but if you're going to use lion armor shields, you gotta protect both vulnerable points. Otherwise, it's just like having only one diff protected by covers or plates or whatever.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:32 PM   #79
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I don't mind if they wiggle a bit outta center, but if you're going to use lion armor shields, you gotta protect both vulnerable points. Otherwise, it's just like having only one diff protected by covers or plates or whatever.


Yeah, an accident waiting to happen.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:40 PM   #80
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Yeah, an accident waiting to happen.
Yeah, I mean if the feared pincer movement you mentioned targeted one side, if you have protected only one of the two upper ventral regions of the torso with armored lion shields, you risk all kinds of bad things. Just like armoring only one of your two diffs. When it comes to protecting the terminal ductal lobular units, it's best to use two lion shields. In such cases, two is beter than one.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:04 AM   #81
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Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Oil Pan, Transmission & Catalytic Converter Skid Plate.

Is that the exhaust loop of a 2012 in this picture?

How much clearance is there between the pipe and the skid?

It looks like the pipe is vulnerable to damage...
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:56 AM   #82
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Came across this in my internet travels, wonder if its worthwhile?
JK Rockcrawler Oil Pan - $175.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:01 AM   #83
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Came across this in my internet travels, wonder if its worthwhile?
JK Rockcrawler Oil Pan - $175.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
If you can get your hands on it, its amazing. Do a google search on it though; these things are pretty elusive. The rancho oil pan skid is very similar to it, so if you just want to get the oil pan, and don't care about the transmission, it's a pretty good choice, certainly cheaper. I went rockhard4x4 myself. It's the kit EVO used to use on their king of the hammers build; I like to think it'll be good enough for me
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:38 AM   #84
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Is that the exhaust loop of a 2012 in this picture?

How much clearance is there between the pipe and the skid?

It looks like the pipe is vulnerable to damage...
Yes. 1012.

As to the clearance, I'll look and report later.

I see the 3/16" plate as protecting the exhaust rather than endangering it.
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:24 AM   #85
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Awesome pics on here guys thank you for posting 'em!
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:20 PM   #86
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good thread. makes me want to buy more stuff. must....quit...buying...have...to...restrain...mys elf.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:14 PM   #87
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Yes. 1012.

As to the clearance, I'll look and report later.

I see the 3/16" plate as protecting the exhaust rather than endangering it.
There's about 1-1/2" of clearance.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:10 PM   #88
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It doesn't re locate over the axle, just higher
Not sure where you got your information, but it is wrong. Doing a quick search on relocation kits, I found several manufacturers with descriptions or pictures that show the evap over the rear axle. Here are 3 different manufacturers with evap canister relocation kits and it clearly states in the description of the product or displayed in a picture that the relocation is above the rear axle.

Pure Jeep Evap Canister Relocation Skidplate PJ1070

http://www.jeepswag.com/jeep_jk_evap...tion/index.htm

Rock Hard 4X4 RH6005-A - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Evap Canister Relocation Bracket for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:23 PM   #89
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FWIW, I first went with the following:

Smittybilt Side Armor;

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Full Width Front Bumper;

Skid Row Offroad Front Lower Control Arm Skid Plates;

Rancho RockGear Dana 44 Differential Covers (x2);

Rancho RockGear Front Differential Glide Plate; and

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Oil Pan, Transmission & Catalytic Converter Skid Plate.














Next stop:


$220 - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Transfer Case Skid Plate;

$360 - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Fuel Tank Skid Plate;

$100 - Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Fuel Tank Breather [Evap] Skid Plate;

$130 - Synergy Suspension Rear Lower Control Arm Skids with Shock Mount;

$150 - Synergy Suspension Rear Long Travel Upper Shock Mount;

$65 - Synergy Suspension Inner C Upper & Lower Gusset Kit; and

$100- Synergy Suspension Front Inner Axle Sleeve Kit.

Ouch (again).
Nice setup. Have you considered drilling a hole in the front trackbar bracket on the axle to relocate your steering stabilizer above the tie rod? It will make is less vulnerable to rocks and other obstacles.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:42 PM   #90
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There's about 1-1/2" of clearance.
Awesome; thank you for checking!

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