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Old 06-03-2012, 08:49 PM   #1
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Lockers and re-gear

I am thinking of installing some lockers and doing a re-gear. I have a 2011 JKU. Dana 30 front, 44 rear and 3.21 gears. I really want lockers. I am not a hard core off roader but can see that if I had lockers I would do a lot more of everything. Is it worth doing lockers on that front Dana30 and beefing it up. I want to re-gear to say 4.56 or 4.88. I am looking at expense. I would like to stay with the 30 front and re-gear and lockers. Will beefing that front up be enough???
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:41 PM   #2
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No one can answer your question for certain as there are many variables.

I am running 37's with a dana 30, arb air lockers front and rear, 5.13's with axle sleeves and gussets and I haven't had any issues.

Just because I don't have any issues doesn't mean you won't either.

You just got to know what is going on in the axles and know your limits and what to stay away against.

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Old 06-03-2012, 09:42 PM   #3
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I don't have lockers, so take this advice with a few grains of salt. Have you been in a situation where lockers would have saved you?
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:46 PM   #4
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Re-gear and beef up the D-30, you'll be fine if you do nothing hardcore. A guy I know is running 37's on D-30 and an AMC 20. But we do everything slow when we go wheeling. No BAJA stuff at all. Always taking it easy. And he also has 4.56 gears.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:46 PM   #5
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I went two years without lockers where in those situations I couldn't run the trails I wanted to without them. Got my lockers and I never looked back.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:29 PM   #6
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The way I see it is, if you "need" lockers then you will know it. It all depends on what you do with your jeep.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC
I don't have lockers, so take this advice with a few grains of salt. Have you been in a situation where lockers would have saved you?


All the time since 94 or so when I started wheeling in something biger of my own besides a 4 wheeler.

This is the first rig that I have had thats been locked front and rear(I have allways ran a rear locker). Let me tell you its a whole new level of what you can do with your rig.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:34 PM   #7
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Heh Heh, good call-if you've been on difficult trails and you don't need lockers-----you don't know what difficult means !

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Old 06-03-2012, 10:38 PM   #8
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The way I see it is, if you "need" lockers then you will know it. It all depends on what you do with your jeep.





All the time since 94 or so when I started wheeling in something biger of my own besides a 4 wheeler.

This is the first rig that I have had thats been locked front and rear(I have allways ran a rear locker). Let me tell you its a whole new level of what you can do with your rig.
Front and rear lockers not only allow you to do more, but they also allow you to do the same as non-locked vehicles at slower speeds with more controle and without smashing up your front diff, LCA mounts, t-case housing, etc ... In 4wWL with both axles locked, you can creep over things that you otherwise would have to gun it and smash your way over/out of. Seen this too many times.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:45 PM   #9
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So true. "Slow and in controll" as we like to say to eachother when things get a little dicy.
Some guys rigs you just cant tell them this. Cause they just cant do it slow. Its more like "back up 2 foot and bump it!"
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:41 PM   #10
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I run 4.88 gears and Eaton E-Lockers in the front D30 with mine and am very happy with this set-up. I do have LSd in the rear so seen no need for rear lockers and have had no issues with keeping up on the trail with front only lockers. Now if I was doing a lot of vertical rock crawling, then rear lockers has it's advantages there but on the east coast, my front lockers work perfectly for my needs and have got me out of many situations

Was planning on doing rear lockers later but after seeing how well this set-up works, I have no plans to add the rear locker now.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:59 AM   #11
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Thanks everybody!! I wanted to reply with every quote he because they are all right on. You pretty much answed my question about the 30 up front, beef it up and it should be ok. I am not looking to go crazy and I have not been out on a trail where I needed locker but I have avoided certain runs because I didn't have lockers and watched my buddies go and do them and I was salivating. Some rock crawling and some steep rocky climbs where I don't think I could have done the climb without winching. I am going to solve some of my clearance issues by eventually going with slightly more lift and 35's, right now I only have a TF leveling kit and 33's which is absolutely fine for riding the trails and what not but it doesn't look to be enough for what I want to do. Plus my breakover angle isn;t what it needs to be. I am only planning on an AEV 2.5" lift, I am assuming it will be enough.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jervboy View Post
Thanks everybody!! I wanted to reply with every quote he because they are all right on. You pretty much answed my question about the 30 up front, beef it up and it should be ok. I am not looking to go crazy and I have not been out on a trail where I needed locker but I have avoided certain runs because I didn't have lockers and watched my buddies go and do them and I was salivating. Some rock crawling and some steep rocky climbs where I don't think I could have done the climb without winching. I am going to solve some of my clearance issues by eventually going with slightly more lift and 35's, right now I only have a TF leveling kit and 33's which is absolutely fine for riding the trails and what not but it doesn't look to be enough for what I want to do. Plus my breakover angle isn;t what it needs to be. I am only planning on an AEV 2.5" lift, I am assuming it will be enough.
35's will give you a great look with a 2.5" lift. I would steer away from AEV as they use brackets that are more suitable for on road purposes and not so much off road. Teraflex and Rock Krawler both make great kits for off road and on road without brackets.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
35's will give you a great look with a 2.5" lift. I would steer away from AEV as they use brackets that are more suitable for on road purposes and not so much off road. Teraflex and Rock Krawler both make great kits for off road and on road without brackets.
I will check those others out. I was looking at the Teraflex, I was a little confused though. Teraflex supplies you with new sway bars and AEV gives you extension brackets. Aev states they use the brackets because they say the they don;t want to replace the "quality" sway bars the factory uses. Are they just sucking up to Chrysler because Chrysler and they are somewhat "in-bed-together?"
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:25 AM   #14
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I will check those others out. I was looking at the Teraflex, I was a little confused though. Teraflex supplies you with new sway bars and AEV gives you extension brackets. Aev states they use the brackets because they say the they don;t want to replace the "quality" sway bars the factory uses. Are they just sucking up to Chrysler because Chrysler and they are somewhat "in-bed-together?"
Yes. AEV and Chysler are in bed together.

Chrysler doesn't make anything quality except for the stock steering stabilizer. (Truthfully)
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:28 AM   #15
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Several good lifts on the market. Full Traction should not be overlooked..... just be sure to do your homework, ask questions, and don't try to save money on your lift. The owner of Full Traction gave me a convincing argument against the brackets that AEV uses... although I am a fanboy of lots of AEV's stuff.... not their lifts though.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #16
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Don't waste your time with 4.56 gears. They do not work well with the 3.8L. Go 4.88 or 5.13 depending on manual or auto. I am going to run 5.13, Eaton E Lockers around and sleeved/gusset front.

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Old 06-26-2012, 02:30 PM   #17
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Just wondering, do all jku's have LSD stock, or is that something you need to add if you regear?
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjwhite622 View Post
Just wondering, do all jku's have LSD stock, or is that something you need to add if you regear?
No...
All Wrangler have BLD/traction control.
LSD is an option on Sports and Saharas.

Rubi's have lockers and do not have an option for LSD.

--------------

To the OP...how much will all of that cost? Would it be worth it to trade-up to a 2012/13 Rubi on 4.10's? That way you get you lockers and your re-gear (assuming you are going from auto to auto).
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panthermark

No...
All Wrangler have BLD/traction control.
LSD is an option on Sports and Saharas.

Rubi's have lockers and do not have an option for LSD.

--------------

To the OP...how much will all of that cost? Would it be worth it to trade-up to a 2012/13 Rubi on 4.10's? That way you get you lockers and your re-gear (assuming you are going from auto to auto).
So if my jkus is equiped with lsd, it would be on my build sheet or original window sticker as an added option, right? I have a 2010 btw, thanks for the reply and the info
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjwhite622 View Post
So if my jkus is equiped with lsd, it would be on my build sheet or original window sticker as an added option, right? I have a 2010 btw, thanks for the reply and the info
Yup, it would be an option on your window sticker that says "Trac-Lok(R) Limited Slip Differential". It would also be on your build sheet.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
No...
All Wrangler have BLD/traction control.
LSD is an option on Sports and Saharas.

Rubi's have lockers and do not have an option for LSD.

--------------

To the OP...how much will all of that cost? Would it be worth it to trade-up to a 2012/13 Rubi on 4.10's? That way you get you lockers and your re-gear (assuming you are going from auto to auto).
IMO, it is never a good option to trade in a car for a new car note. Most the time there is negative equity built up and the dealer won’t give much on trade in, so you go to having a bigger auto note and a fresh 72 months of payments.

This way the OP and the most of us here built unique Jeeps to our specs.

-Dan
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:43 PM   #22
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Just FYI, people often have the misconception that you need to regear when installing lockers. You dont. If your ok with your power now, but want added traction, add the lockers. If ya got 4:10 ratio, it is great for 33's. If you have a pentastar with 4:10's you can dive right into 35's without getting too sluggish.3:73's can be had but I would not do it, your heep would be a dog. Just my 02 cent pal.
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:25 AM   #23
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Hate to open this back up, but I want to confirm some things here that I am reading. And have a question as well. I have a 2011 JK sport with 3.73 I believe, I'm running 33s but would like to go to 35s or even 37s eventually. I want at least front lockers. I'm thinking 4.88s for the regear.
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:26 AM   #24
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If I do a front locker first, can I regear later?
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:32 AM   #25
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Yes but ideally you would do both at the same time to keep from paying for the same labor twice. Also I wouldn't lock a dana 30 but that's just me. Do a rear locker and then save up for a front rubi axle or an aftermarket currie/dynatrac 44.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:33 AM   #26
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JeepNinja23, It would be most cost effective to save your pennies and do it all at one time when you think about it.
Many people lock Dana 30's but only you can answer how you wheel. Its not smart to lock it without building it better (gussets, tubes, trussed and even new shafts) and even building it better may result in a failure at the weakest point dependent on wheeling. Once again only you know what you want to do with your rig. Hell, you can just be done with it and tack in some 1 tons and really not worry much about breaking anything except your wallet to the tune of about 10K.
I am in the same predicament now and I have to slap myself in the face and tell myself that it would be cool to have 37's and new dynatrac 44's or 1 tons but I live in Wisconsin and use my Jeep as a DD as well as a wheeler.
At best I will find some Rubi take offs and build them a little, regear and be happy.

As with most things Jeep, you can usually solve it with cash. I'm a working stiff with kids and other bills. I also think you learn by having a limit on your vehicle. I like to wheel with the open diffs (LSD in rear-mostly open) and I still have some climbing to do to figure how to upgrade.

SO the first place to start with your punch list of should I and what should I is with you.
How are you thinking of using it? How much money are you able to spend at 1 time?
Many combinations possible. I will tell you that you mentioned 37's and unless you are going to be 100% on road mall crawling looking cool, 37's are in the real big boy/girl world of spending money to make it right. That is to the tune of about 6 to 10K unless you want to spend that money on tow trucks and mechanics.

Lots to think about. hopefully you arent too confused but it starts with you. Keep us informed.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:48 AM   #27
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Its not smart to lock it without building it better (gussets, tubes, trussed and even new shafts) and even building it better may result in a failure at the weakest point dependent on wheeling.
The problem with locking a D30 is going to be ring and pinion strength. Especially with 4.88 or 5.13 gears that pinion gear gets extremely small and only 1-1.5 teeth are in mesh at any given time. Throw in some 37s and that's a recipe for disaster. Keeping it unlocked and allowing for some wheel slip/spin could help to prevent a r&p failure. But absolutely it depends on how you plan to wheel it.
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:46 AM   #28
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OP: have you looked into selling your 2011 and buying a used Rubicon?

You may be surprised once you crunch the numbers for regearing, adding lockers and beefing up the front axle, vs selling yours and getting a Rubicon with comparable miles and equipment.

The added benefit is that a Rubicon retains the value of those factory "add-ons", while aftermarket add-ons normally won't.

Just something to think about.

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