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Made my own Mikeybilt Tailgate Table/Molle Rack!

23K views 33 replies 17 participants last post by  ArmyofMike 
#1 ·
Wave to All!

I have been going back and forth on getting a Smittybilt GEAR Tailgate holder, but also wanted a table for my tailgate. However, spending $65 on the GEAR system and another $100+ for a table setup is beyond my financial capacity...and I'm cheap. So...I built my own.

Many times, when my family and I go on trails, in the snow, or camping, the kids climb in the back to hang out/eat and I'm left standing at the back. Too many times, I've had a size 3 in my samich and I'm tired of it!! So, my angst led me to this solution.

I built the "Mikeybilt Tailgate Module" out of everyday parts I got from local stores. Overall cost was around $25-$30 depending on what you have already.

What I got for the build was:
1) 11.8" x 23.8" black shelf ($6 at Home Depot, black)
2) Magnetic strip ($5 at Harbor Freight)
3) 2 hinges ($3 at Harbor Freight)
4) #8 finishing washers and screws ($8 at Orchard, 3 washer bags of 8=24 total)
5) 9' of 2" webbing ($5 at REI)
And I had the velcro, 550 paracord, zipties, and patches

Everything together ( I did not use the Neodymium magnets after all):


Shelf:


Magnetic Strip:


Washers:


First, I mounted the hinges to the bottom of the shelf on equal sides to make it horizontal. Then, I drilled two holes on both sides for the 550 paracord to go through. I used zipties to mount the hinges to the topmost vent slit on the tailgate. I want to make sure this will be usefull before I actually drill holes in my tailgate. The zipties are quite strong and they do not rattle once tight. I tied the paracord to the bottom side of the shelf equally on both sides and affixed it under the black plastic cover on the tailgate.


Next, I centered and attached the magnetic strip on the top of the shelf. I put velcro on the magnetic strip to help with rattling and ease of getting it off the tailgate (it's quite strong).


The magnetic strip contacts the tailgate metal just above the black plastic molding. This holds quite strong and the table rests a bit on the black plastic...perfect!


Then, I got my 2" black webbing and cut three equal pieces and burned the ends.


I then drilled equal holes on both sides of the board starting at 4.5", to 9.5" from the tailgate side of the table. This is where the screws/washers will go to hold down the webbing:


Then, I doubled up on the webbing and drilled the screws/washers through the webbing into the pilot holes. Two screws per webbing an inch apart.


Next, I fastened a few more washers to the front/bottom of the table to add more stability, tautness and support.


After this, I attached some molle pouches, a strip of velcro for my patches (we don' need no stink'in patches!)


It is very sturdy and strong and does not rattle at all. I'm pretty stoked with my $25 ingeniuty!

If you want more pics, please ask!
:iamhappy:
 
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#4 ·
With the zipties, no more than about 10#'s, but once I drill it, I would think it would be fine with up to 20#'s without a doubt. I have this exact shelf on a rack in my garage, and it has held well over 30# of crap and not had issues.

In reality, I will probably be using it for lunch/drinks/working on parts, but I'm thinking I can actually put my Coleman stove on here to cook also! :beerdrinking:
 
#9 ·
I will go out in a bit and take some pictures of the hinges/550 cord mounting.

Excellent work. I love seeing ingenuity at work. Mine is usually motivated by my... sense of value as well.

Once you get those hinges screwed in, I bet that would hold pretty much weight. If someone wanted even more, they could attach some sort of metal cleat to the bottom, like a piece of the shelving rails, then run the para cord through that, or they could use gate-type hinges that would extend across the shelf.

I think what you did, though, will give you plenty of strength. How much weight are people comfortable putting on the open tailgate? Has anyone stretched their hinges using the open tailgate as a table?
Yes, if I was to mount it to the tailgate with sheet metal screws it would be quite a bit stronger. However, I'm now a bit hesitant for the metal to metal contact (ie. rust) and am kinda digging the ease of the zipties. You could attach a larger hinge/bracket or even metal brackets that fold and lock when extended: however, I like a quiet ride, so the less metal I could use the better. At this point, I would be comfortable putting about 10#-15# on the shelf.
 
#8 ·
Excellent work. I love seeing ingenuity at work. Mine is usually motivated by my... sense of value as well.

Once you get those hinges screwed in, I bet that would hold pretty much weight. If someone wanted even more, they could attach some sort of metal cleat to the bottom, like a piece of the shelving rails, then run the para cord through that, or they could use gate-type hinges that would extend across the shelf.

I think what you did, though, will give you plenty of strength. How much weight are people comfortable putting on the open tailgate? Has anyone stretched their hinges using the open tailgate as a table?
 
#11 ·
Great idea! A full length hinge would be quite strong.

I want to see pics of everyone's work once you get done with yours! :)
 
#14 ·
Looks great! I like the shelving rack idea and the modularity!

Very impressive! My gears are turning! :happyyes:
Get to it!! But post your mock-ups or final product!
 
#13 ·
Wave to All!

I have been going back and forth on getting a Smittybilt GEAR Tailgate holder, but also wanted a table for my tailgate. However, spending $65 on the GEAR system and another $100+ for a table setup is beyond my financial capacity...and I'm cheap. So...I built my own.

Many times, when my family and I go on trails, in the snow, or camping, the kids climb in the back to hang out/eat and I'm left standing at the back. Too many times, I've had a size 3 in my samich and I'm tired of it!! So, my angst led me to this solution.

I built the "Mikeybilt Tailgate Module" out of everyday parts I got from local stores. Overall cost was around $25-$30 depending on what you have a

lready.

What I got for the build was:
1) 11.8" x 23.8" black shelf ($6 at Home Depot, black)
2) Magnetic strip ($5 at Harbor Freight)
3) 2 hinges ($3 at Harbor Freight)
4) #8 finishing washers and screws ($8 at Orchard, 3 washer bags of 8=24 total)
5) 9' of 2" webbing ($5 at REI)
And I had the velcro, 550 paracord, zipties, and patches

Everything together ( I did not use the Neodymium magnets after all):


Shelf:


Magnetic Strip:


Washers:


First, I mounted the hinges to the bottom of the shelf on equal sides to make it horizontal. Then, I drilled two holes on both sides for the 550 paracord to go through. I used zipties to mount the hinges to the topmost vent slit on the tailgate. I want to make sure this will be usefull before I actually drill holes in my tailgate. The zipties are quite strong and they do not rattle once tight. I tied the paracord to the bottom side of the shelf equally on both sides and affixed it under the black plastic cover on the tailgate.


Next, I centered and attached the magnetic strip on the top of the shelf. I put velcro on the magnetic strip to help with rattling and ease of getting it off the tailgate (it's quite strong).


The magnetic strip contacts the tailgate metal just above the black plastic molding. This holds quite strong and the table rests a bit on the black plastic...perfect!


Then, I got my 2" black webbing and cut three equal pieces and burned the ends.


I then drilled equal holes on both sides of the board starting at 4.5", to 9.5" from the tailgate side of the table. This is where the screws/washers will go to hold down the webbing:


Then, I doubled up on the webbing and drilled the screws/washers through the webbing into the pilot holes. Two screws per webbing an inch apart.


Next, I fastened a few more washers to the front/bottom of the table to add more stability, tautness and support.


After this, I attached some molle pouches, a strip of velcro for my patches (we don' need no stink'in patches!)


It is very sturdy and strong and does not rattle at all. I'm pretty stoked with my $25 ingeniuty!

If you want more pics, please ask!
:iamhappy:


Very impressive! My gears are turning! :happyyes:
 
#15 ·
Atta Boy Mike !!! I been also been thinking of one of these units. I have 5 grandkids so when we are out in the boondocks Seems like it's always about the FOOD grandma packs !

One thought... If your using a heat source ,you might want to swap out the Para Cord for Sash chain ( Ace Iz Tha Place or Home Depot ) thats all ya need is to be heating the weenies and have one of the Para Cords melt in two... Just an idea.
Great Job !! "BH"
 
#19 ·
Nice, good work. I had my wife sew me something similar up for my safe door.
Velcro on back


1 inch molle webbing


mounted on door


Installed


Might have to take on another project for the tailgate when I order my HRR
:happyyes:
 
#20 ·
Nice, good work. I had my wife sew me something similar up for my safe door.
Installed


Might have to take on another project for the tailgate when I order my HRR
:happyyes:
That...is...awesome! Great job you....and Great job Wife! :worthy:
 
#22 ·
FYI, If you scroll further down this post, I redid the original links to add the pictures and descriptions back.

Thanks,
Mike
 
#26 ·
I used the holes that are already under the cover, looped the paracord through tied it then burned it a little to make sure it wouldn't come loose. Then I notched out the bottom of the cover to allow the cord to straighten without popping the cover off.
I attached the brackets tot he tailgate with steel reinforced zip ties I had that are rated at 40lbs, it's pretty sturdy. I didn't want to permanently drill into the tailgate.
 
#27 ·
the stainless steel zip ties are a good idea for this. I am starting to brainstorm ways to make something similar...I don't want to pay $200 for a springtail or $120ish for the alanjk one on eBay. Plus I like DIY projects. This is going on my spring time list for sure. My first order of business is to look for a similar shelf panel that may be more lightweight...if all else fails the black wood panel will work fine
 
#28 ·
@lwclancers, the shelf isn't that heavy.

The steel zipties is a great idea too. My plastic ones are holding strong even after several years. In fact, this weekend I camped in the snow and used my shelf to stage gear and hold my Heater Buddy. I still love this addition to my Jeep!
 
#33 ·
Finally got around to finishing my version of the table with the inspiration of you all. I used the same shelf table and tool magnet from HF to start with. Instead of strap for the molle attachments I decided to try something more rigid and used 1" x .25" aluminum rods, cut to length with some nylon spacers (harder to find then you'd think). The bars are 2" apart on center to fit standard molle attachments. I also used 3/4" aluminum rods to protect the sides of the shelf top from chipping. On the top when folded down I had an old 1/4" thick roll of recycled rubber laying around and cut that to fit and glued down. Should prevent any rolling of items. I also cut out small patches for the side of the hinges against the jeep. For finishing touches used finishing washers and plastidipped everything (not sure how well it will hold up).

For attaching to the door I used normal 1/8" wall toggle bolts through the hinges. and into the vent opening on the tailgate. I did have to shave a little metal down to make them fit. But I liked how secure they are.
NOTE: I went this route because I used hinges with off center holes and the hinges themselves werent "wide" or tall enough so I had to mount higher on the gate so the magnet would clear the plastic cover, so zip ties wouldnt work for me. I'd highly suggest a hinge with aligned holes.

I decided to go ahead and drill some small holes and use rubber grommets to run the paracord under the cover. The stopper knot and spring clasp allows me to tighten down and adjust if the paracord stretches a little.
 

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#34 ·
Great Work! Sorry I didn't get back to your message in time. I like your refinements to the table/support!
 
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