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Old 02-01-2011, 03:14 PM   #1
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Moving to a JK.

I am currently in the market for a used unlimited rubicon and have a couple question for y'all JK owners. Is there any problem spots for the 4 door I should check that the TJs didn't have? I'm also considering lifting it a month or so after the purchase (if it does not void the warranty) I'm considering either 35s or 37s what is the minimum lift needed with each tire size?

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Old 02-01-2011, 03:15 PM   #2
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be careful, i hear the jku has extra doors....

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Old 02-01-2011, 03:17 PM   #3
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Haha yea I may get in the wrong one before I realize hey you got extra doors ::duh::
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:26 PM   #4
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You can fit 35's with as little as 2.5" of lift. Here's a good article that I read that you may find useful. Fatal Angle Tom Woods JK Wrangler Driveshafts - Jp Magazine
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:59 PM   #5
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Thanks Daggo. Is there any lift that y'all recommend over others? If I go 35s thinking ome and 37s thinking clayton with all 8 arms. Is there any spots to be concerned about rust or any problems with the jk specifically I should be aware of?
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:02 PM   #6
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Some manuals have had issue with JOG (jump out of gear). There is a TSB out for it. Automatics have a bad habit of overheating in sand. The rest is just normal Jeep stuff that you already know, like if you open the door of a soft top during a rain storm the water will run directly down the back of your neck.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:06 PM   #7
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::haha:: yea the one I'm going to look at Friday if I hear back from the dealer is a manual. Thanks for the information about the rain I always wondered why it dripped into my crack.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:05 PM   #8
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some aftermarket fenders permit you to run up to 37" tires with stock suspension.....a lot of people run 35's on a 2" spacer lift. you may want to reinforce the "C's" on the outside of the front axle as they will bend over time on TJ's and JK's with larger than 33's. I would recommend sleeving the front axle for anything over 33 on jk's and tj's(the axle tubes are a weak point and can shear after or during abuse.....just my 2 cents
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:38 PM   #9
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That includes the rubicon?
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:07 PM   #10
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yes....the DANA 30 & 44 axles have issues if you do hard wheeling/crawling with oversized tires....my tubes and gussets should arrive tomorrow and it's no easy task, but I say better safe than sorry! you have to remove brake assembly, axle shaft, etc... drill holes in the axle tube, slide sleeve in, plug weld the holes, and reassemble then weld the gussets on the "C's". it's a lot of work like I said, but it's a lot cheaper in the long run than a new Dana 44 front axle. I have a 2007 rubi that will have a complete poison spyder build plus offroad evolution control arm skids, 44mag sleeves, and C gussets. I plan on running 37's and I'm making darn sure to do my research for a proper build to avoid future issues. it's expensive, time consuming, but well worth it in the long run to build it right the first time!
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:38 PM   #11
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Well I'm kind of in a rut now. The black rubicon I found online is 2.5 hours away and the dealership that has it has not answered their phone or my emails and there is a very clean white unlimited 15 minutes away and I think I made my mind up to go with 35s instead of 37s and I would prefer to run Detroit lockers front and rear. I also don't mind not having the push button sway bar stuff so i think I'll be happy with the D30 and D44 of a nonrubicon model. Now just to find the exact one I'm looking for will be the fun part.
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:26 PM   #12
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you'll also have to trim the pinch seam on the front of your rear wheel well.....no biggee, just a minor cut and some clear spray paint....it'll take 10 minutes max

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