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Old 12-01-2011, 05:44 PM   #1
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My Bedlined Door Hinges

Seeing as how there's been some threads lately about door hinges, I figured I'd post my bedlining experience.

I had no problems with my factory hinges, but just figured the they'd look better in black. So I picked up some of these Rugged Ridge hinges from Q-tec, which turned out to be a rust-tastic disaster. Don't buy those . . . ever.

Having already removed my factory hinges, I decided to bedline them before putting them back. (If you're just doing this for aesthetics, I'd recommend NOT removing the hinges. Taking them off--as noted below--generates work related to re-sealing them and so on. You'd be better served to just tape them off and then sand, prime, and bedline. But since mine were already off, I had more to do if I wanted it not to let water in behind the hinges.)

For those considering this, there are at least three issues I expect many folks don't think of when they actually pull off their hinges. (Again, if you don't actually pull them off, this is all moot.)

First, the bolts that go through the hinges and into the door are held on with thread locker, so you'll want to get some to reattach the bolts. It took about 50 ft/lbs to get each one off.

Second, the hinges are sealed onto your door at the factory both by being painted over with the factory paint and by some kind of bonding compound that you can see on the back of the hinge once you pop it off. Therefore, you need a silicon sealant of some kind when you reattach the hinges unless you want water to get behind them.

Third, the area on the door that sits behind the hinge is not painted. Once you crack the seal with the hinge, it's just bare metal under there. So you'll want to hit that area with some kind of paint, primer, or something just to seal it in.

Other than that, you just undo the bolts, pop them off, and go to work. After sanding, I used Rustoleum self-etching primer (2 coats) and Rustoleum truck bedliner (3 coats). I didn't bedline the back side of the hinges as the bedliner has a "texture" and I wanted them to sit as flat against the door as they could.

Next step was taping off the door to spray the bare metal with Rust Reformer, and then putting a bead of silicon sealant in an upside down "U" shape on the back top and sides of the hinges. Then I just attached it to the door and wiped the silicon overage that emerged once it was tightened down the same way you'd do with caulk.

After that, I used a little touch up paint to go along the top of the hinge. In retrospect, that was probably unecessary and you can see the line from that crappy paint job (look carefully at the top photo below). Wish I'd skipped that part.

Finally, keep in mind that the two bolts holding on each hinge are going to stay the color of your factory paint unless you paint them separately. I pondered this, but ultimately think they look cool in the factory color.

It turned out like this:



And from a distance:



Overall, I'm definitely pleased. I'm open to questions or comments.

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Old 12-01-2011, 05:47 PM   #2
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Looks good MTH. I like them better that way too, but I just haven't convinced myself to do it. haha

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Old 12-01-2011, 05:48 PM   #3
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Great job and looks great. I did this to my rims, grille guards and more on my other vehicles. I think it also looks really good on the wranglers door hinges looking black instead of color matching. I used the brand Duplicolor and it has held up great, even on the rims while going off road.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:29 PM   #4
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very cool..should come as an option.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:45 PM   #5
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Nice MTH!

I agree w/ the probs involved if you remove them. That being said, I can see myself going w/ this approach if/when I run into rust issue.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:55 PM   #6
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The close up shot didn't do so much for me but the second shot looks great. That looks really good. Nice job.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:14 PM   #7
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Thanks all. I'm really pleased with it, like the look much better than stock, and feel confident the silicon sealant will keep out any water.

My only concern is simply that if my hinges ever do rust/pit during my warranty period, I'm confident Chrysler would blame my bedlining rather than faulty hinges (and for all I know, they might be right). But I don't really care. I could just refinish them any way like I've already done.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:33 PM   #8
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Looks great.

Have you thought about taping off and bedlining the bottom part of the hinge? maybe the bolts too? Well maybe a little flat paint on the bolt head.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:17 AM   #9
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Impressive
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:10 AM   #10
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I want to do mine in black. When you say sand, did you just rough the clear coat or did you get down to bare metal? Like the color of your hinges!
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:20 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Badkarma8 View Post
When you say sand, did you just rough the clear coat or did you get down to bare metal?
Roughed the clear coat and the paint. Saw a little bare metal, but not all bare metal.

Now, that of course doesn't mean I shouldn't have gone all the way down to the bare metal, I just didn't. If it starts to peal in the future, I'm sure some paint expert will tell me I should've gotten all the way down. That said, if the self-etching primer adheres to the scuffed up factory paint (and some bare metal) and in turn adheres to the bedliner, I should be good. Looks great so far--and that counts for a month of NC's wild hot/cold/rainy/sunny weather and even a drive-thru carwash.

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Have you thought about taping off and bedlining the bottom part of the hinge? maybe the bolts too? Well maybe a little flat paint on the bolt head.
I have thought about doing the lower part of the hinge. Ideally, I'd like to do the entire lower part of the hinge, which if you open your door you can see is a separate piece of metal that bolts into the body. The problem though is that that'd require my doors to be off for an extended period of time, I have no garage, and it's December. Still . . . it's on my extended to-do list.

I pondered going over the bolt heads. The easiest thing to do would be to cover up most of the hinge and just swipe a line of bedliner across them. That was actually the original plan, but then I decided I kind of like the blue bolts. I dunno . . . I might keep them that way long term or maybe not.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:28 AM   #12
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Is there anything you can do to prevent them rusting in the first place? I mean, from new...

Maybe the silicon sealant you did on yours, MTH, but without the full bedline treatment?

Or are they doomed.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:47 AM   #13
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Looks nice...
Are you wheels bed-lined...or are those Mojaves?
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:12 AM   #14
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Is there anything you can do to prevent them rusting in the first place? I mean, from new...

Maybe the silicon sealant you did on yours, MTH, but without the full bedline treatment?

Or are they doomed.
You know, I've heard about the hinges rusting/pitting, but mine never did. And I've had the Jeep since July 2010, so it's been nearly a year and a half with no signs of any problems. I just liked the look of black hinges.

However, if I hadn't removed my stockers to try to put on the awful Rugged Ridge junkers, I would never have taken my stockers off in the first place. Like I mentioned, if you're just doing this for looks (as I was), I would just take the doors off and tape, sand, prime, and bedline with the hinges still attached to the door so as to keep the factory seal and alignment in place.

But I had no rust problems. Hopefully, that'll continue to be the case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
Looks nice...
Are you wheels bed-lined...or are those Mojaves?
Those are Mountain Edition wheels, which was offered in 2010 as the first special edition to use those mineral grey wheels. You can see one here. My Jeep is a 4 door Mountain Edition.

Folks really liked the way those wheels looked, so Jeep reused them in 2011 for the Mojave and Call of Duty Editions, not the other way around.

I actually bought new wheels/tires earlier this week though, so they'll be occupying my shed shortly . . . .
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:11 PM   #15
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Thanks MTH, I'm flaking off huge chunks of paint from my hinges, gotta do this soon.
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:43 PM   #16
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I have bed lined the windshield wiper arms hood latches gas cap door and grill inserts love the look... I am thinking about taking the bumpers running boards and fender flares to the lineX dealer and have them to spray them . 400.00$ is the price they quoted me . what do you guys think.....
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvomike
I have bed lined the windshield wiper arms hood latches gas cap door and grill inserts love the look... I am thinking about taking the bumpers running boards and fender flares to the lineX dealer and have them to spray them . 400.00$ is the price they quoted me . what do you guys think.....
"thinking" huh... that's not a bad deal.
I mean-- to have it professionally done.
Do they coat the parts on the jeep or will they have to remove them?

Might look into something like this.
My door hinges are shot and looking at my
Hood, they are starting to bubble also
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:14 PM   #18
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"thinking" huh... that's not a bad deal.
I mean-- to have it professionally done.
Do they coat the parts on the jeep or will they have to remove them?

Might look into something like this.
My door hinges are shot and looking at my
Hood, they are starting to bubble also
I have to remove and replace the parts
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:16 PM   #19
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I did mine this summer. Took the hinges off of the body (could not get doors off) Pounded lower part of hinge off. Taped off, sanded and sprayed.



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Old 12-06-2011, 10:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANIMAL
I did mine this summer. Took the hinges off of the body (could not get doors off) Pounded lower part of hinge off. Taped off, sanded and sprayed.


How are they holding up? Any fading or flaking?
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:45 PM   #21
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Plasti dip =D if you're unsure about if you'd like the look use that stuff if you dont like it it'll peel right off with no damage and if you do like it it should stay on for quite awhile i just recent did mine and it looks great on my silver rubi flat black accents do wonders
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:03 PM   #22
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How are they holding up? Any fading or flaking?
No. No fading or flaking. I did prime them after sanding and before spraying on the bedliner. Some of my hinges were peeling. This was the worst one, before sanding. I figured that it was easier to bedline them then try to match the silver.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:59 PM   #23
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I dig that.
DANIMAL did what I would have done, by bedlining the lower hinge as well, but minus removing them. I've put a few scratches in my lower hinges with the door pin while reinstalling the doors. Up until now, I had been using touch up paint, but that looks so good, I think I might just do it also.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:25 PM   #24
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Yep. Come summer I'll be looking at those lower hinges.
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Old 12-08-2011, 12:41 AM   #25
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Hey here's another DYI driveway mod that you can do better with mine the second time around!


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Old 12-08-2011, 09:42 AM   #26
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Black hinges should definitely be a factory option. I think when mine comes, I will try the black plasti-dip method to check it out.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:58 AM   #27
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Definately on my list for after Christmas.
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:56 AM   #28
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Hey here's another DYI driveway mod that you can do better with mine the second time around!


That's true!! (Sort of like your lift install . . . . )

Unless you have a compelling reason, we'd leave your hinges on the doors and just take the doors off.

Then we'd tape off the area around the hinges (including the rod that actually holds the door on) and hand sand them. Hit them with one or two coats of primer letting it dry after each coat, and then hit them with two or three coats of bedliner and let that dry after each coat. You'd have to decide if you wanted to do something similar with the lower part of the hinge.

The challenge would be letting everything dry--it'd take 45 minutes between each coat at the very least. The better practice would probably be to wait 24 hours between each coat.

That's the problem with doing this in December. Having the doors off for a few days in December is probably not as much fun as it should be.
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:06 PM   #29
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Unless you have a compelling reason, we'd leave your hinges on the doors and just take the doors off.

I actually had a good reason to take the hinges off of the body. Spring of 2010 I had my doors off and decided to put anti-sieze on the pins. The doors came off several times during the summer with no problems. I did not have an opprotunity to take the doors off until late this summer. They would not come off. The anti-sieze actually hardened and would not let the doors lift off. I had a very hard time taking the lower hinge off of the door once off. I sanded the pins down to the metal and now they work great. I am using white lithium grease now on my hinges.
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANIMAL View Post
I actually had a good reason to take the hinges off of the body. Spring of 2010 I had my doors off and decided to put anti-sieze on the pins. The doors came off several times during the summer with no problems. I did not have an opprotunity to take the doors off until late this summer. They would not come off. The anti-sieze actually hardened and would not let the doors lift off. I had a very hard time taking the lower hinge off of the door once off. I sanded the pins down to the metal and now they work great. I am using white lithium grease now on my hinges.
Sounds like a good reason to me.

I don't think ESP is in the same situation. Having taken the hinges off, would you agree with me that somebody desiring bedlined hinges out to leave the hinges attached to the door if possible?

It seems to me that popping them off runs the risk of changing the alignment and it definitely breaks a factory seal. As noted above, I ended up using a silicon sealant and thread locker I never would've had to have bothered with if I had just left the hinges in place.

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