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Old 02-27-2010, 12:36 PM   #1
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My buildup- FINALLY moving ahead

Okay. So I'm finally ready to post this, since Quadratec finally got their shit together and got me all of my parts (after no fewer than NINE screw-ups on their part- see my "F Quadratec" thread).

Here's the lowdown:
Rock Krawler:
3.5" coils front and rear (Duh! )- to get this sucka up!
Front and rear lower control arms- so I can adjust caster, and don't break stuff
Rear upper control arms- so I can adjust pinion angle
Front and rear stainless steel braided brake lines- for a firmer pedal, and to avoid tearing a stock rubber piece
Rear track bar bracket, rear heim-jointed end links (for adjustability and tighter response), rear spring wedges and front spring clips

Teraflex:
Front swaybar disconnects (for flex, damnit! )

Bilstein:
5100-series shocks (174, 175 PN's)- because Jeremy said so...

Auburn Gear:
Rear Dana 44 3.73 and down (because that's all that'll fit in a JK- thanks very little, Q-tec!) ECTED e-locker

Superior Gear:
Front Dana 30, and rear Dana 44 4.88 ring & pinion gears, overhaul kits

Yukon Gear:
Front Dana 30 open carrier (for now) with hardened gears

BFGoodrich:
35X12.5X15 M/T KM2's

Cragar:
15X8 (4" Backspacing) Black Soft 8's (calipers may need a bit of a shave for these)

River Raider:
Dana 30 and Dana 44 diff covers



For right now, the gearing, ECTED, and diff covers are all that's in line. Thanks to Quadratec, that all was delayed a couple weeks, but SHOULD be done by Sunday night.

After that, I have the shocks, 35's, 4/5 Soft 8's (I have one here already), and some of the RK bits on order, and I'm playing the waiting game. Pics to follow as stuff arrives and gets done! Woo hoo!
Tune in soon for more exciting bitties Mark W.

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Old 02-27-2010, 02:43 PM   #2
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Wow! Sounds like quite the treasure trove. If I may be so bold..... What did this list of items run you?

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Old 02-27-2010, 02:50 PM   #3
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Well, some of it I had already. As for the Rock Krawler stuff, they "made me a deal I couldn't refuse." I plan on talking to them about vinyling up my JK to represent them, as they've been very good to me, and their stuff is top notch. I do a cash-and-carry deal with them, so they hook me up

The River Raider diff covers were ~$315 shipped.
The Bilsteins were $300 shipped from Shock Warehouse
The Cragar's were $39.99 each plus shipping from Jegs
The KM2's were $188 each from Tire Rack, and I'm picking those up to save shipping
The Yukon D30 open carrier was about $130 from 4WS
The ECTED was $650 (with free shipping due to their mistakes- DO NOT BUY...) from Quadratec
The Superior gears were about $300, and the overhaul kits were about $350 for both.

Overall, pretty damn spendy, but I've had good hook-ups on some stuff, and a loving fiancee who helped me survive dealing with Quadratec (see my "F Quadratec" thread for more on that!), and a great set of locals (RK, Kevin who does my gearing) who kept me from buying crap I don't need in the build.

Again, I HIGHLY recommend Rock Krawler (I know I sound like a broken record here)- Jeremy both took great care of me, kept me from buying THEIR OWN PRODUCTS if I didn't need them, and gave solid advice every step of the way. Sadly, I didn't confer with him before buying from Q-tec.
Anyways, pics soon to follow Mark W.
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:57 PM   #4
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Hmmmm....... Rolling close to 3g's. Sounds pretty good since the wheels and tires I'm looking at are over 2 by themselves.
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Old 02-27-2010, 03:00 PM   #5
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DANG! What are you looking at? And what are you looking to do with it? I shop CONSTANTLY (not necessarily buying, but always looking), and I may help you find a better price, or a better part- Mark W.
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Old 02-27-2010, 03:51 PM   #6
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17X9 Liquid Metal Gatlin = 5 (matching spare)
P255/75R-17 Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 = 5

Wheels ~ $675.00
Tires ~ $800.00
Wheel installation kit ~ $45.00
TPMS rebuild kit ~ $45.00
Tire Certificates ~ $150.00 (free replacement warranty)
Tax ~ $161.57
Drive Out price ~ $1,908.27


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Old 02-27-2010, 07:16 PM   #7
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I have that tire on my pick-up. Its been a good tire. I wouldn't put it on my Jeep though. It a very non-aggressive tire.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:44 PM   #8
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I have that tire on my pick-up. Its been a good tire. I wouldn't put it on my Jeep though. It a very non-aggressive tire.
My Jeep is a daily driver, and only sees pretty much dirt and gravel during offroad sessions. Don't do big ruts, rockclimbing, etc. so I thought they would look more aggressive than the factory Goodyears, and still be a suitable all around tire.

I am open to suggestions, and hearing about any tire experiences......
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:03 AM   #9
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I'll be following your ECTED experiences closely.
I had never heard anybody say bad things about them until Jerry; curious to see how it holds up in a different climate.
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:40 AM   #10
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As for the wheel/tire combo, why do you need A. a wheel installation kit, B. A TPMS rebuild kit? Just wondering... Mark W.
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Old 02-28-2010, 01:06 PM   #11
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As for the wheel/tire combo, why do you need A. a wheel installation kit, B. A TPMS rebuild kit? Just wondering... Mark W.
Good question. I'll have to ask.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:44 AM   #12
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I think the "wheel installation kit" is a set of Gorilla lugnuts.
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:11 PM   #13
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Hmm- I'd definitely find out about that. As for the TPMS rebuild, as long as the shop that tears down your wheels knows what the funk they're doing, you shouldn't need it- Mark W.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:23 AM   #14
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Update on the build:
Bilsteins showed up Saturday- they are BEEFY

Soft 8's are due in tomorrow, picking up the rest of the RK stuff either Friday or Monday.

Got an ETA on the 35's- next Friday Hopefully they'll be pick-up-able then. Either way, weekend after next, the lift is going in Mark W.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:56 PM   #15
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The KM2's were $188 each from Tire Rack, and I'm picking those up to save shipping
Super price on the KM2s!. I often price them and $245 to $270 seems to be the best I can do for 315/75/16s (35s). gona check out the Tire Rack.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:33 AM   #16
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Good question. I'll have to ask.
Wheel installation kit ~ $45.00 ~

This is Lug Nuts that match the wheels, including Lock Lugs.


TPMS rebuild kit ~ $45.00 ~

Warranties them for the life of the tire.

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Old 03-08-2010, 07:49 PM   #17
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Sweet! Just got the call- the 35's are in! Going to pick them up on Wednesday morning! Can't wait! Mark W.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:03 AM   #18
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Hmm- I'd definitely find out about that. As for the TPMS rebuild, as long as the shop that tears down your wheels knows what the funk they're doing, you shouldn't need it- Mark W.
Thank you for answering my question before I asked. I was wondering if I needed to buy a tpms rebuild kit,if I put new tires on my Rubicon.But you just answered that,thanks Mark.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:16 AM   #19
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wheres that "This Thread Is Useless Without Pictures" icon/pic?? hmmm....

hows the progress coming
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:58 AM   #20
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Hah. Just picked up the 35's this morning. Getting mounted on Saturday.
Picking up the rest of the gear tonight from Rock Krawler.

Starting the teardown Friday afternoon, through Saturday. HOPEFULLY will be done by Sunday evening, then an alignment Monday or Tuesday, and I'll be on my way Mark W.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:39 PM   #21
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sweet dude.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:46 PM   #22
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dont forget to get progress pics... before/after, detail pics, etc.

oh and if you feel like having a little fun with the camera, put the lift on the rear first, put the new tires and wheel on the rear and pull it out and get pics of it in DRAG RACE MODE!!!

of course if you do that you might want to take front driveshaft out so you dont screw up the tcase (not sure if it would or not but i would er on the side of caution), and 15 extra mins to do that BUT the pictures last a life time hehe (or you can just not drive it but let it sit on its own weight and take garage pics of like that )
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:00 PM   #23
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Thank you for answering my question before I asked. I was wondering if I needed to buy a tpms rebuild kit,if I put new tires on my Rubicon.But you just answered that,thanks Mark.
Actually the TPMS should be "rebuilt" about every 50K miles or any time you pull the sensor off the rim. It has to do mainly with the black rubber gasket that seals the sensor to the rim. The kits also (most cars) include a new collar and valve core. If you don't replace that each time, you can get a very annoying leak that's next to impossible to find. Even putting it back in the same rim can cause a leak after it's pulled, hence why they offer the kits. Switching rims would be a definite bad idea. I'm sure some have done it, but it's not worth the potential problems IMHO.

You don't have to buy it from QT though, just about any tire retailer or parts store have them. They're $5.00 to $6.99 each at Sears depending on the vehicle. Autozone, NAPA, O'Riley, Advanced, KOI, etc. all should have them too. Dill is the manufacturer of most (as with valve stems.) Save yourself the hassle and do it when mounting the tires. Most shops will do it then for free or a very small labor charge ($5,) vs. later they'll generally charge that same rebuild labor plus a rebalance and mount fee ($20.)
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:05 AM   #24
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Actually the TPMS should be "rebuilt" about every 50K miles or any time you pull the sensor off the rim. It has to do mainly with the black rubber gasket that seals the sensor to the rim. The kits also (most cars) include a new collar and valve core. If you don't replace that each time, you can get a very annoying leak that's next to impossible to find. Even putting it back in the same rim can cause a leak after it's pulled, hence why they offer the kits. Switching rims would be a definite bad idea. I'm sure some have done it, but it's not worth the potential problems IMHO.

You don't have to buy it from QT though, just about any tire retailer or parts store have them. They're $5.00 to $6.99 each at Sears depending on the vehicle. Autozone, NAPA, O'Riley, Advanced, KOI, etc. all should have them too. Dill is the manufacturer of most (as with valve stems.) Save yourself the hassle and do it when mounting the tires. Most shops will do it then for free or a very small labor charge ($5,) vs. later they'll generally charge that same rebuild labor plus a rebalance and mount fee ($20.)
Good point,I'll just buy the rebuild kits.I don't want the hassle later . Thanks for the info
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:42 PM   #25
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So oww... got the front done tonight- 4 hours, plus an hour of setup and pictures, which, sadly, are not that great, as our digicam (again) has crapped out. So I got SOME pics, which I'll post soon, some of which are off my cell.
So the front is NOSE HIGH! Wow. BUT, the 35's are on, and look BEASTLY, although the "3.5"" lift looks to be closer to 5"! Yowza! Hoping it'll settle down a fair bit, as it's looking pretty beast right now- not really my style- I prefer a bit more low-key.
Anyway, everything went pretty much the same as every other time. I have to say- I heart my cheap ACDelco electric (corded) impact gun- paid for itself on this job alone (~$50 from Summit)- getting the track bar and LCA's on and off with it was a BREEZE. So much nicer than a breaker bar
So sit tight, be patient, and we'll see how it goes!

P.S. grinding for the 15's took maybe an hour including set up. I also probably ground a bit more than I had to, but so it goes Mark W.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:00 AM   #26
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So in another 4 hours today (solo), got the rear apart, the new track bar bracket drilled and buttoned up, new upper and lower control arms in, the track bar in, springs and rear wedges in, and started on relocating the rear sway bar.
Looks like my total will be 10 hours from start to finish, assuming max 2 hours tomorrow to finish reinstalling the sway bar and end links, installing the shocks, and putting the wheels back on. Sounds reasonable, na?
Since I'm rolling solo, sadly I won't be installing the brake lines myself. Gonna get that done on Monday when I go for an alignment. If not, they can wait. Not going wheeling until next weekend (Maybe), so I'll be good for now without. Otherwise, I have to say, the RK kit has gone in rather easily.
ONE HUGE TIP: If you are doing this yourself, install one rear upper control arm, then do the lower on the other side, then that upper, and then the other lower. This way you SHOULD be able to do this without any ratchet straps (mine are hiding, apparently) or a helper. Figuring this out took me a bit of trial and error. Also, the instructions don't mention it, but to get the new rear springs in, you NEED to disconnect the 10mm bolts that hold on the brake lines on the body, and snip off some of the plastic pieces that hold on the ESP/ABS wires, otherwise you won't be able to drop the axle enough to get it in. Hope this helps somebody
Anyway, bedtime- should be finished tomorrow. HOPEFULLY pics by Monday- no promises Mark W.
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:08 PM   #27
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SO- I am 95% done. Everything is back on BUT the brake lines are not. I am rolling solo, again, and need a pardner to bleed the brakes. Also, the OEM rear brake lines will NOT line up without major strain at rest, so I'm working on a set of brackets for the time being until I install the new lines. Otherwise, I must say:
THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL THAT IS ONLY 3.5"!!! Hah- it came out to closer to 4.5" front, 4.25" rear. Giggity The thing barely fits into and out of the garage now Test drive in a bit Mark W.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:56 PM   #28
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good to hear things are coming along... i was a bit disappointed when i scrolled down and ... no pics!!!! got me all excited and bam... no pics. hope it finishes out well.
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:28 PM   #29
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Hah- I KNOW! Hopefully they'll be up Tuesday- tomorrow is an alignment, brake lines (hopefully), and a check up at Rock Krawler. We shall see if I have time to upload tomorrow night.
Digicam is totally dead at this point. Also, anyone have a good upload setup or posting site? I am kinda lost at all this- if so, PM me your e-mail and I'll shoot you the pics- thanks! Mark W.
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:13 PM   #30
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Ok- she is DONE! Got the alignment yesterday at the dealership, then headed up to Rock Krawler. Picked up their front swaybar disco's, and installed the extended brake lines (front and rear- thanks, Justin!).
So, finally, pics: (note: originally, this was going to be a walkthrough, but as stated, my digicam crapped out mid-lift- not cool!)

Pre-lift, 35's on:


Front end off the ground:


Front LCA's out:


Kit with shocks: (the bottom right is a reflection off the shocks, and yes, I know the springs are reversed! )


Front spring clips installed:


And finally, the finished product:


Again, apologies for the wait, crappy image quality, and lack of a middle to the story. I did my best

Overall impressions so far:
Ride quality is better than stock. The shocks are simply epic in motion control. It also handles better, with less squat, dive, pitch, and yaw. The axles don't judder as much over bumps. The KM2's don't track very well, but nothing awful.
Mud impressions to follow soon, I hope Mark W.

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