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Old 02-07-2011, 11:31 AM   #1
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MY Head Unit/Speaker Install

Okay, I've been posting a lot in the other stereo thread but I wanted to create a thread based on my own experience because I feel like I encoutered unique scenarios that may help people with their own installs.

I guess I'll go ahead and start with the head unit, which is what I installed first. I went ahead and installed a double din unit in a JK w/the non-infinity system. Taking the center dash panels off is a breeze as long as you are following along with the Crutchfield Master Sheet. Don't make the mistake I (i.e. my brother) did and pry too hard with a screw driver to pop the middle panel off, other wise you will ding up the soft plastic along the edges. I now have a few ding marks that are noticeable, but hardly the end of the world.

Anyways, once you have the entire front section of the dash popped off and the old head unit pulled out you have to remove the metal mounting bracket in the back of the dash. This is the hardest part of the install. Keep in mind you may not have to remove this bracket if you are installing a single din unit.

I went ahead and followed the directions according to crutchfield and unbolted it, but CF's master sheet forgot to inform me there are 3 large plastic screws that must be yanked out of the bottom of the bracket with some pliers. Even after the bracket was completely free in the dash cavity, it would not come straight out. I had to cut it in half with a sawzall and then mangle it up by bending the edges down with a pair of pliers. My hands were busted up pretty good the next day from this.

Once the bracket is out, you can go ahead and install the new stereo. Make sure you have all the wires correctly crimped/soldered with the two harnesses you are using. It is an extremely tight fit to jam everything back there with a double din unit. Push all the wires to the left as much as possible and push the antenna wire to the right and start jamming the unit back there.

Keep in mind , the dash kit for my head unit didn't come with screws, so when i used my own screws the first time, the heads were too large on them that head unit became too wide to fit in the stereo cavity. So I recommend using flat headed screws for maximum clearance so you don't have to make a last minute run to home depot.

Once you get everything jammed in there, you can start bolting everything back up. Make sure the head unit is nice and flush with the dash. This can require some tightening/loosing of bolts to make it look right.

Lastly, you need to add the top dash panel (with the compass attached underneath). Well go figure, my head unit was just tall enough that the the top dash panel wouldn't snap back in place. I was pissed off because i thought i was going to have to disconnect and remove the compass alltogether to make the top panel fit. If you run into this problem, simply unscrew the compass from the bottom of the panel and you will notice some plastic tabs on the bottom of the top panel that can be broken off/filed down. Once you position the compass on the left portion of the head unit and file down one of these plastic tabs, you are able to get the top dash piece to fit back on.

This should have been a relatively simple process, but because of that metal bracket and a couple other snafus, my installation became an all day event.

Here are some pics of the final installation:

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As far as the speakers go, the drivers side dash are a royal PITA to install. I suggest starting here, as this speaker can take several hours to replace.

Once you have everything taken apart according to CF's master sheet (which includes removing many hard to reach bolts in tight places), you have to wiggle the speaker box out of the dash cavity. This is a royal pain. Its easiest if you depress the clutch and brake pedal once you have worked the speaker box out of the cavity. It should pop out of the bottom by the pedals if done properly. Putting it back in is a bit easier once you have the hang of it.

The passengers side took all of 20 minutes and is 100x easier to install than the drivers side. You literally remove two pieces of trim and the glove box and have extremely easy access to remove the speaker box making this install very easy.

The speaker bar install is very easy as well. These should only take an hour or so to install both. You just unbolt the speaker grill, remove the old speaker, connect new speaker, and bolt up new speaker.

I recommend buying speaker adapters for the speaker bar because most speakers are not a direct fit and it would be a pain to not have some sort of adapter.

Once everything is all hooked up, you will notice an amazing difference in sound compared to the stock speakers/head unit. I recommend stuffing the speaker bar and speaker pods with polyfil (thanks mr. sinister) as it makes the speakers operate like they are in a bigger box than they are.

I did my complete install for $350 and the results are awesome.

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Old 02-07-2011, 11:34 AM   #2
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Looks real good BM, thanks for the tips

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Old 02-07-2011, 11:40 AM   #3
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if anyone has questions about the problems i encountered, send me a PM. its kind of hard to describe these things without visualization

oh yea, sorry for the crap cell phone pics
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:26 PM   #4
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How much did you stuff the speaker boxes with the polyfil? I was thinking about doing that to mine as well.
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:45 PM   #5
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Very nice looking install.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbaru View Post
How much did you stuff the speaker boxes with the polyfil? I was thinking about doing that to mine as well.
I packed it loosely. I read if you pack it tight, it does the opposite of its intended purpose.

so i filled the speaker boxes full, but it was packed in there very loosely and wasn't really dense
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Old 02-08-2011, 04:07 PM   #7
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I did my complete install for $350 and the results are awesome.[/QUOTE]

Can you give me a parts list from CF.
I want to install the exact same setup.
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:37 PM   #8
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JVC XR810 - Head Unit
Kenwood C1739ie - Front Dash Speakers
Boston Acoustics S65RC - Sound Bar Speakers
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:49 PM   #9
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Thanks. Will you be installing the infinity basslink as well? I just ordered your setup and the basslink. Should plug and play well with that new hu
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Old 02-08-2011, 09:45 PM   #10
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i want to get the basslink, but i want my back seat to be fully operational and mount the basslink like the infinity sub is mounted (against the side) and i'm not sure if its possible

did you get the jvc head unit i got as well?
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMountain View Post
i want to get the basslink, but i want my back seat to be fully operational and mount the basslink like the infinity sub is mounted (against the side) and i'm not sure if its possible

did you get the jvc head unit i got as well?
Yea ordered the same HU. I have a 4door so I will mount the baselink at the right rear seat back and still have room for stuff. I will probably try different positions of the basslink cause it has an active and passive woofer to see which sounds the best. I seen one mounted where the Infinity sub was in person and the basslink is HUGE.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:19 AM   #12
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really? its that big huh? probably why i won't get a basslink b/c I have a 2 door and want my backseat to still be operational while not losing cargo space.

what is the difference between active and passive woofer?
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:27 AM   #13
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From what I understand active means that it is power driven and passive means that it takes the air from the powered sub to make it move and produce nice clean lows.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:43 AM   #14
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which one is better?
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:24 PM   #15
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BM
Both are included in the basslink as well as some others that are all-in-one amp-sub unit but my guess is that an active would be the best if in a standalone box.
So are you happy now that you got it all in and how does your blue tooth work with the top off driving? Does it mute the radio when a call comes in and when call is done continue to play where you left off?
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:30 PM   #16
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yea i'm really happy with the setup except one of the kenwoods i received was defective. i'm installing the new one tomorrow.

i haven't taken the top off to try the blue tooth out (its butt cold here) but it works great with the hard top on. yes, it mutes the radio and flashes when you have an incoming call. it even alerts you when you get a text message. once you are finished with your call it picks up right where you left off. its a really nice head unit. only 1 quirky thing i have found so far but overall i'm very happy with it especially since it ran me $140
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:36 PM   #17
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Good stuff to hear. Thanks for buying and trying and your post. DVD screens are nice and GPS but since I have 2 DVD players in the rear headrest and a nice GPS all I needed was to get rid of that stock radio for better outputs. Gonna add a backup camera as well. This HU just fits and looks like a fantastic job you did. I may just pay 75 bucks and let the experts bleed on the install.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:38 PM   #18
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honestly, its probably worth the $75 (if thats what they are charging you) to let the experts do it, because removing that metal bracket is truly a PITA.

i wanted to learn how to do a radio and speaker install so i was determined to do it myself

i love the way the head unit looks in the dash. it looks stock and clean, but also has that attention getting appeal. i have it set up so it displays one color during the day and then switches at 6pm to another color at night when the dimmer kicks on. its a really neat feature
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:46 PM   #19
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Downloaded the manual and reading that feature as I type. Yea local car stereo guy I was talking to has a jeep with the 16'' training wheels and I upgraded my wheels so I told him I will trade my old wheels for the infinity baselink and 75 bucks to install HU, XM portable player, Speakers, Basslink and backup camera and wire up the rear DVD players so I can hear them thru the speakers and basslink. Sometimes owning a Jeep gets you great deals and info.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:49 PM   #20
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now thats how you do business
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:49 PM   #21
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nice install BM i'm in the process of doing my own upgrade and your inputs help alot thanks dude now i know what else to look forward to.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:59 PM   #22
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wow...looks awesome!! good job, and thanks for sharing.....I have a 2010 2door Rubicon, and it has the stock radio( not the fancy one i dont think) with sirius, I would like some better sound, can I get any better results with just changing the speakers in the sound bar, and the other speakers or do I have to do the head unit as well? Im not looking for navigation or anything like that, just CD, sattelite, maybe HD radio not sure, I dont have a blue tooth setup now, but might get it just in case.....I would probably look around to have it installed, live in a small town so might be S.O.L.... anyway, nice job..looks awesome
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:22 PM   #23
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I have the stock radio as well and I have a thread called upgrade stock radio on a budget. I first ordered 77kick10 6.5 65 bucks a pair which are made by kicker mopar and replaced the sound bar speakers fiirst.. Noticed right away better sound than stock. Added two front speakers and the sound was even better with actual base. Took out rear speakers and installed stock and left the fronts still quality sound. Since I had 4 speakers I put them back in the rears. If you replace just the 2 fronts that is a 90 precent sound improvement and the rears 10 percent but the stock speakers are crap. Ordered bm setup and will try the head unit first with the kickers. Then I will add the new speakers to see If I want to keep
them or stay with the kickers. Saw a video youtube on a guy that removed the jk center stack in 3 minutes and had the stock radio out and unplugged.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:12 AM   #24
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replacing the speaker without the head unit may give you slightly better sound, but the factory head unit doesn't give the same power to the sound bar speakers as it does to the dash speakers.

in my case, i couldn't even hear my sound bar speakers with the factory head unit installed.

once i installed my new head unit it brought the stock speakers to life! i could hear the sound bar speakers and got more power to all the speakers in general. however, i wasn't getting the clarity that I am now with my new speakers in.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:11 AM   #25
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thank you guys.....hopefully this summer I can do all of it....kinda nervous about taking the stock radio out...some say its a nightmare, others say it wasnt bad???? lol probably go with Crutchfield because I live in a small town, no stereo shops, except for Best Buy an hour away...... Crutchfield seems to have a good selection, not looking for a $1500 sound system, just something better than stock, no dvd or anything like that...
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:12 AM   #26
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Nice install BM. It looks clean and neat. I think the Infinity Basslink will complete your system. It's already amplified so all you have to do is run the power and ground cables, hook it up to your head unit, and you will have a nice, well rounded system that you did yourself. One thing though. If you do get the Basslink, I've read that pointing towards the back will give you better/louder bass. Try both ways and see which one is louder. I made a box and put it in the rear of my 2door JK and it is about the same size(maybe a little bigger) as the Basslink. There is still plenty of room.
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:23 AM   #27
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that looks nice shiner. thats how i had my sub in my old jeep, facing that tailgate that is. when i go to wire my sub, what will i have to run through the firewall? is it a wire that has to hook up to the battery or something?
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:52 AM   #28
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This may seem daunting, hooking up a powered sub or amp/sub, but it's pretty easy. You can usually buy a wiring kit which includes everything you need (power cable, ground cable, rca cable, etc). Separate amps or powered subs require a power cable connected to the battery (gauge or thickness depends on the power of the amplified sub or amp/ an Infinity Basslink can use 8 or 10 gauge, higher wattages require 4 or less I run 4). Because it has power you need to ground it (negative equivalent of positive power cable, same gauge). After that you just need to connect the amp/ amplified sub to the head unit via RCA cables or speaker wire line input. I have some pics of mine I will post
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:57 AM   #29
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Here is a pic of my power cable connected to battery ( you can also see that i have an in line fuse, not necessary unless you have a higher powered system). all you need is the power cable and an eyelit to connect to the battery positive terminal.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-19-2011, 04:00 AM   #30
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zip tie the power cable (blue) along the top.......Attachment 38574

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