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Old 02-23-2012, 11:47 AM   #1
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Need 2011 jku guidance

The lack of throttle response on my 2011 kills me on the highway (yes, it has to be a DD...), but everything else about my 2011 is great.

New interior rocks (perfect fit for my 6'5" frame), I can carry dogs, bikes, camping gear, people...etc.

I do not believe this is a power problem, I believe it is a throttle response/transmission gearing problem. A +/- 200 HP engine with 3.73 should not feel this unresponsive at highway speed even with only 120-130 at the wheels. I have no issues around town - only really noticeable at highway speed.

I have been delaying doing mods because it is so bad, and I'd been toying with the idea of moving to a 2012 JKUR instead, but the local dealers are being tools and not talking to me about an order using the affiliate program, and don't have an R the way I like it in stock.

I have a 2011 JKUS with auto and 3.73 and based on what I've read online, chips can give a better throttle response, but I haven't seen them for 2011 (example - Superchips Flashpaq only goes to '10...) Any insight as to a programmer for 2011? This would be my simplest fix.

The Sprintbooster product says it will accomplish the throttle reprogramming, but at $300 I'd rather have a device which does more than that...

My intent to to rig this to flat tow behind my RV, it is my DD and I will be using it for firetrails in the National forest and such - no rock crawling or stump jumping (at least, until much later...).


Already have (but not installed):
Bushwhacker hood/Tailgate protector
Front splashguards (gotta keep the dirt of the business clothes...)

Will do:
Rallylights Headlight updgrade
Northridge JK hardware kit (replace stock bolts)


Want to do:
ARB front Bumper (Roadmaster tow fits under, already have towbar)
Roadmaster Tow brackets
Brakes (for being towed - required in WA by weight)
rear bumper - undecided, I like the toys in the AEV...
Heated Seats (would be on a JKUR)
Remote start (would be on a JKUR)
M/T KOs (would be on a JKUR - otherwise, looking for take-offs online)

I really want to get to work - but the throttle is SO BAD I don't want to put effort in if I need to switch vehicles to solve it. The new bumper and rigging to tow is not cheap - I don't want to do this until this is solved.

Opinions?

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Old 02-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #2
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There are no performance tuners out for the '11+. None of the companies (Superchips, Hypertech, etc) have been able to get past the rolling codes Chrysler started using with the '11 MY.

And even with a good performance tuner, your Jeep's not gonna see a whopping increase in high end power.

Gearing is pretty much your best option, if you decide to do some or all of the mods you have listed.

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Old 02-23-2012, 02:25 PM   #3
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Regear to 5.13s, use a ProCal to let your computer know, and add a sprintbooster. You'll be good.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:15 PM   #4
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Regear to 5.13s, use a ProCal to let your computer know, and add a sprintbooster. You'll be good.
Do you have 5.13 in your jeep
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:04 PM   #5
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So far, I'm not sure sprintbooster works on an auto 2011. Quadratec show 2011 as non-supported, but sprint's site looks like it is ok.

Without a flash tuner, may be my only option.

Not at the re-gear point - I want to save that for about 5 years down the road when I have a different daily driver - and can add 37's. (then this will become my zombie outbreak survival jeep...)
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay-1

Do you have 5.13 in your jeep
He doesn't no..

I can vouch for the Sprintbooster.
Do not have to stand on the gas to go.


To bad it $300+

Man/auto does not matter. They changed the pigtail on it to fit the 11's. (I think)
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:26 PM   #7
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In the meantime, don't mash the throttle. Push down more slowly. On my 2011, it seems like the throttle responds better.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefDan
So far, I'm not sure sprintbooster works on an auto 2011. Quadratec show 2011 as non-supported, but sprint's site looks like it is ok.

Without a flash tuner, may be my only option.

Not at the re-gear point - I want to save that for about 5 years down the road when I have a different daily driver - and can add 37's. (then this will become my zombie outbreak survival jeep...)
I have sprintbooster on my 2011 auto and it works very well.

That said, if I had to do it again, I'd regear first and likely wouldn't need the sprintbooster.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRubi
In the meantime, don't mash the throttle. Push down more slowly. On my 2011, it seems like the throttle responds better.
That is very true. This is a great quote I found way back and saved

"now throttle response is something completely different that the dyno charts do not show. The 3.8L is known for poor throttle response and significant lag in the programming which makes the engine seem weaker. Compounding this problem is the fact that if the throttle is mashed too hard too quickly the safety programming of the computer takes over and you actually accelerate slower. This has lead to some people like myself to develop a better technique for launch that prevents that from happening"
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRubi
In the meantime, don't mash the throttle. Push down more slowly. On my 2011, it seems like the throttle responds better.
I have the same problem and this is what I've learned to do.
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:46 AM   #11
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That is very true. This is a great quote I found way back and saved

"now throttle response is something completely different that the dyno charts do not show. The 3.8L is known for poor throttle response and significant lag in the programming which makes the engine seem weaker. Compounding this problem is the fact that if the throttle is mashed too hard too quickly the safety programming of the computer takes over and you actually accelerate slower. This has lead to some people like myself to develop a better technique for launch that prevents that from happening"
Now there's a phrase that should NEVER be used in conjunction with a description of the Wrangler.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:47 AM   #12
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Do you have 5.13 in your jeep
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:55 AM   #13
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Sorry UNBELIEVERS--

My JKUR throttle is as quick as any vehicle I've owned and that includes "Muscle cars"-

It's like showing a group of people a cave to take sheltwer in and some won't enter, cause they're afraid of the DARK !

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Old 02-24-2012, 10:54 AM   #14
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Unfortunately you don't see 120-130hp at the wheel unless you are revving the motor to 5000rpms. You are only getting 55 hp at 1900rpm which is about 70mph in o/d with 3.73 gears and 32" tires (~31" actually for charts sake)

So 55 hp isn't a great amount of horse to push a heavy JKU.

Regearing really is the only way to get more hwy speed power. Going to 4.88 will get you 2500 rpms at 70mph with all else the same and will be at 75hp or a 20 hp gain. You get a 40% hp gains with a regear to just 4.88 and more to 5.13's at around 50% increase.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:01 AM   #15
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If you regear to a more beneficial diff. ratio--there is no throttle "LAG", cause the ECU/Engine are in a "comfy" zone and it's a "No questioned asked" throttle reaction-

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Old 05-06-2012, 11:54 AM   #16
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Unfortunately you don't see 120-130hp at the wheel unless you are revving the motor to 5000rpms. You are only getting 55 hp at 1900rpm which is about 70mph in o/d with 3.73 gears and 32" tires (~31" actually for charts sake)

So 55 hp isn't a great amount of horse to push a heavy JKU.

Regearing really is the only way to get more hwy speed power. Going to 4.88 will get you 2500 rpms at 70mph with all else the same and will be at 75hp or a 20 hp gain. You get a 40% hp gains with a regear to just 4.88 and more to 5.13's at around 50% increase.
If your just looking for highway gain, what is the difference in 5.13's and just turning off overdrive and running in 3rd gear?
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:29 PM   #17
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I'm interested if someone could answer the question above about driving without overdrive in the higher rpm. Does this put extra or a damaging strain on the trans? Obviously would be temporary till regear. What is the difference between getting it in the correct rpms?

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