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Old 10-25-2011, 02:22 AM   #1
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need front diff help asap in middle of project

i blew my front dif on an 07 wrangler sport.

i got a replacment dif and removed old dif from housing and now i am having trouble getting the new dif back in.

it has splints and everytime i get the dif into the housing all the way its way to tight to turn

anyone have any ideas on a way to make it go in easier?

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Old 10-25-2011, 05:46 AM   #2
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how did you ruin your old one?

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Old 10-25-2011, 05:53 AM   #3
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Okay are you saying the ring and pinion blew up? Or the carrier or spider gears? Need some details of what your trying to replace.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:56 AM   #4
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I originaly stripped all the spider gears out but I got a full dif from a mate so it was just a matter of pulling old dif.center out of housing which was real easy
And putting the new one back in which is not been easy at all.

As soon as I put the shims on properly the whole dif is to tight to turn
And the only place I can get it done before this weekend is going to charge me 300 just to fit the dif center back into the housing on the car
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Arb Winch Bullbar with 9500lb Winch(dynamo rope)
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:57 AM   #5
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And I did the dif in on a mudhill with big ruts from 37's and heaps of tree roots lol
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3 Inch Lift-Synergy Springs, Fox Shocks, Teraflex Lower Control Arms, Fox steering dampener
Arb Winch Bullbar with 9500lb Winch(dynamo rope)
Synergy chromolly tie rod and panhard rod
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:18 AM   #6
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Okay, so you removed the old ring gear from the carrier, then installed a New carrier with new spider gears and put the old ring gear back on right? I am thinking you will need to have the backlash adjusted between the ring gear and the pinion. Special tools are needed for that. If its not done right it will eat everything again.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:43 AM   #7
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As I understand it, this is a special "pros only" kind of job--special tools, know-how, etc. Are you up to snuff on all that? PM member "Oilwell1415" to make sure he's seen this thread, as he's done R&P replacements before and can--perhaps--provide some input.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:56 AM   #8
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several things come to mind,, what axle are you using, what axle did the gears come out of, remove all the shims and see if it turns, and add as needed. aLSO REMEMBER gears out of a D44 wont work in a D30. really not enough info given, we need more.
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:04 AM   #9
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Even if all the parts are the same the manufactured tolerances are not perfectly identical. This means the system needs set up properly with dial indicators and shimmed to spec. You unfortunately cannot just pull a part out and put a new one in. If you are simply using the same shims from the old unit it does not mean it is the same amount of shimming for the new one. That is likely why it is too tight. Your pinion gear depth will likely need reset too.
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:04 AM   #10
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Here I come to save the day......or ruin it. Whatever.

You should have just changed the spider gears from the new unit to the old. That would have by far been the easier way to do the job without even removing the carrier from the housing. That said, 90% of the time when you change a carrier you can just take out the old one and put in the new one and it's fine because you are using the same gears and haven't changed the pinion depth. However, if you don't know what the backlash was before you took the old carrier out you will never be able to confirm that you put it back exactly as you found it at this point anyway.

You did make sure to keep the shims in their original location, right? If so, it should be OK. The bearings require some preload during assembly, so it will be tough to turn when assembled. Most pinoin bearings require 10-15 in-lbs to turn when assembled new and carrier bearings bring the total up to about 40-60 in-lbs. Those are measured on the pinion nut, so it will seem much tighter if you are trying to move it using the ring gear. It isn't uncommon to need some king of cheater bar to move the ring gear once it's installed. If it's assembled using used bearings all of those numbers drop by about half.

Do you have a dial indicator w/magnetic base? If so, you can verify that the backlash is at least within spec even if it's not the same as it was before. I'm not going to try to explain it in writing. Youtube is your friend. Look for measuring ring gear backlash.

There is a table on the Randy's Ring and Pinion website with all of the specs for any axle you are ever likely to work on. There may also be some "How to" videos there that will help you out.
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Old 10-25-2011, 04:36 PM   #11
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Thanks for the great info everyone... Special thanks to oil with his very detailed summary. So looks like I'm going to have to pay out the 300 just so the guy can put different shims in and stuff lol.

I figured it was a bit much to over take by myself but ya never kno till ya give it a go lol

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33x12.5x16 Mickey Thompson MTZ
3 Inch Lift-Synergy Springs, Fox Shocks, Teraflex Lower Control Arms, Fox steering dampener
Arb Winch Bullbar with 9500lb Winch(dynamo rope)
Synergy chromolly tie rod and panhard rod
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