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Old 06-09-2013, 01:24 PM   #1
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Need lift advice/help

I'm trying to decide on my lift for my 13 JKUS. The only thing I've decided on is that I want 33"s, because I don't really do crazy offroading (just beach and some trails), and it is my daily driver. I do have the 3.73s, but I've heard that even a small running 35, like a Duratrac, would kill my power (unless I regeared). I wish I could run 35s, but just don't want to be a dog, and don't plan on a regear. Anyways, I have some questions with lifts:

Will 33 duratracs look too small under a 2.5" lift? (I've been looking at the AEV and MetalCloak ones, but I hear that they would net me a lot more than 2.5 inches unless I have heavy bumpers)

Which lift would be preferable for my type of use? I do highway driving during the week, and around town and beach on the weekends. I definitely want to do the lift right, so I don't mind shelling out for the MetalCloak ARB lift if that's really a complete kit that addresses all the geometry corrections. Or could I go with the AEV because I do mostly highway, and don't need crazy lift (so the fact that the control arms are set lower with AEVs lift won't really matter that much). I want to avoid winding up with almost 3.5" of lift on 33s since I don't have bumpers though.

Also, if I go with 15" wheels on the 33s, will I get not so great of a ride than if I was on 17"s?

Thank you in advance for any answers!

John

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Old 06-09-2013, 01:35 PM   #2
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Not sure if you have the auto or manual, but the newer 3.6L engine with 3.73's should not kill your power too much. I have a 3" rancho sport lift and 35" Fierce Attitude MT's waiting at home to be installed, I can give you an update next weekend. I have read and know of people that run 33's stock, may look a little small with the 2.5" lift, but that is also in the eye of the individual viewing it. MetalCloak is a very good lift, but for your 'wheeling' I do not think you will need to spend that much. Probably a Teraflex coil and shock replacement will do just fine. I live in Louisiana, do not do any rock climbing, just mud and trails. I went with the Rancho due to the price, added the RS9000 adjustable shocks, from what I read, that is the best way to go shock wise, you are not set with one setting. Read on, but a warning to you, the more you read, the more you will change your mind, I did that for 3 months lol. Talk to people with actual experience with the lifts, do not go purely by what people 'hear'. Either way, it is your ride, and as long as you are happy that is all that matters

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Old 06-09-2013, 01:37 PM   #3
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With a jku the 33's an 2.5" lift will look borderline small. But its mainly opinion on that. As for your gearing with 3.73's an the new engine you won't have any problem moving the 33's. An it shouldn't be at all sluggish. Also if you don't plan to go bigger then 33's 15" wheels are a good choice an keep cost down as well. But I would look into a leveling kit or 2.5" from teraflex, metalcloak, aev, an rock krawler are the better brands around.
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:38 PM   #4
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I run 295 x 70 x 17 33.5 " with 2.5 lift Rough Country.
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:09 PM   #5
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I'm on 15s with 33x12.5 Duratracs. JK though, not JKU.

Check the thread with like 500 replies about 33x12.5x15 for pics of some JKUs on this combo. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/33x...deo-96568.html

I think the JKUs can pull off a good look with 33s with the taller 2.5 spring lifts. Nothing wrong with that wheel-well gap, in my opinion. But it's subjective.



I think if I had a JKU and could afford it, I would go in with some metrics, like the 315/70R17 on the AEV or RR wheels to get exactly the right backspace. While not a true 35", it's close enough to not matter. I suppose some 35"s out there vary in true height anyway once aired up and on the ground.

I don't run 3.73, so read up on what people who do are saying.

Lots about lift brands on here to read. Mine rides so smooth I'm at 70 before I know it. Only problem is that it transmits everything at lower speeds on surface roads 20-40 mph (I'm still running light). Dream on the freeway, but still a Jeep. Your JKU will ride better due to longer WB, assuming you have a decent lift of course :-). Haven't pushed it hard offroad, but it does the job. Will find out more once I have time and a few skids here and there.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:39 PM   #6
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Ok so from your original post, you have a 4 door, one of the questions is are you looking for additional wheel travel or just to clear the 33". Next you can run a 35" with the new motor and auto tranny all day long without any slights issue. I have a 2012 and the wife a 2013 both sport S autos with 35" tires and neither of us have any issues.

Ok back to question 1. If you just want to clear 33" tires then don't lift it and just do flat fenders like metal cloak or do a fender trim of the factory fenders. If you want the additional wheel travel then go with the metal cloak ARB.

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This is my wife's jeep, it has the MC ARB kit on it with 35" tires and the MC fenders.



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This was my wife's jeep before the lift and fenders. It has the factory fender trim and 35" tires. It rubbed a little so 33" would fit much better in this configuration.

Let me know if I can answer anything else for you
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:00 PM   #7
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I've got a JKU with the 3.73's and I'm on a AEV 2.5 plus Duratrac 315/70/17's. Also adjusted with Procal. I have not been disappointed with power yet. I've even managed to only lose about one mph.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:35 AM   #8
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The 33's will look find IMHO on a 2.5" lift with stock fenders. However you could go with just a leveling kit and easily clear the 33's. Also don't put down the 35 option just yet. See if someone local will let you drive their jeep so you can see how it feels. Just make sure it's the same motor, trans, and gears as what you have.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:55 AM   #9
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Thanks for the responses everybody; it's really great when people take the time out of their day to help out a stranger!

One question is still bugging me though...if I do wind up going with a 2.5" lift, and don't have heavy steel bumpers, am I going to wind up with 3-4" of lift?

John
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:22 AM   #10
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John, where in NY are you? I live on Long Island and have done several lifts on JKs with 35's. I personally run 35" tires and just have a Teraflex leveling kit until Metal Cloak puts out a 2.5" option for 2-doors. I would be happy to meet up if your in the area and help you out.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoot2 View Post
Thanks for the responses everybody; it's really great when people take the time out of their day to help out a stranger!

One question is still bugging me though...if I do wind up going with a 2.5" lift, and don't have heavy steel bumpers, am I going to wind up with 3-4" of lift?

John
it depends on whos kit you are going to use. some of them 4". I can speak to Rubicon express and MC, with the RC it would be closer 4". with the MC your looking at a TRUE 3" with out the extra weight. how ever factors to consider are
1. if you offroad it, all kits will settle a little
2. from a pure measurement factor, your "lift" height may be 2.25-3" no matter what BUT from an optical point of view you would not notice that 3/4" Difference.
3. from new tire to worn tire you will lose at least an 1" of tire height over the life of the tire.
4. you will add some additional weight to the rear when you add a 33" tire for the spare
5. NEVER rule out adding bumpers in the future! ( you could have a someone rear end you and presto new bumpers all around)

SO with those factors above it returns back to the question of A) do you want wheel travel down or B) just tire clearance for what you have
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:23 AM   #12
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With our kit without any of the bumpers or other stuff we like to add to our kit you will indeed end up with about 3" of lift. We do this so that when you add that stuff it will still sit at 2.5 inches. However, you will not need to worry about the standard stuff that you would with say a 3" lift and that is becuase a 3" lift will give you more than 4 inches. If you have any questions feel free to call, pm or email us.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:14 PM   #13
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I have the 2013 JKU manual with 3" Zone lift and 35's


1. Regearing is not necessary. If anything, on my manual, the 35s seem to work better for giving me more range on the first two gears and lower RPMs at highway. She'll still go 80+ if I need her to

2. I would think long and hard about 33's on the JKU. They look bigger on the 2 door than they do on the 4 door. Honestly my 35's look good and with a 3" lift it sits how it should but they don't look huge by any stretch and sometimes look a little small in the wrong lighting

3. As far as I can tell, and someone else said it, if you're dead set on 33's don't even mess with a lift.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:44 PM   #14
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Thats funny the 37's on my wife JKU look small sometimes in the wrong lighting too.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:54 PM   #15
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What are you gonna do. I guess the 38"x 14" tires are the only way to remove any doubt.....

Oh and I have 3.73s. I know some guys are fine with the same lift and tires on the 3.8 auto. 3.6 should have more than enough power to handle 35s with 3.73 gears.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #16
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1. What is best lift kit for a novice? Leaning Tera Flex.
2. Best cargo rack? Need something that can be used with freedom and soft tops.
3. Lights? Can anyone comment on the lower profile ones that attach to the hood hinge?
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newbie69 View Post
1. What is best lift kit for a novice? Leaning Tera Flex.
2. Best cargo rack? Need something that can be used with freedom and soft tops.
3. Lights? Can anyone comment on the lower profile ones that attach to the hood hinge?
Check out my build thread 2 below,

Metal cloak ARB edition lift
Garvin rack
Rigid dually 2's

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