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Old 07-30-2012, 11:00 AM   #1
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New driveshaft with 3.5 inch lift??

looking to add a 3.5 inch lift kit to my 2010 jku sport. looking at short arm kits (either rubicon express or rock krawler). will i need to replace any of the driveshafts? if so i will try to find a 2.5 or 3 inch lift that wont require it. trying to keep budget in mind. does anybody recommend the one brand over the other? thanks for your insights!

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Old 07-30-2012, 11:13 AM   #2
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Short answer yes. Even at 3” of lift, you are pushing it. Especially going off road and flexing out. Since you are a JKU, your rear will be more forgiving since it is longer than a 2 door’s. The front on yours would be the one you need first.

As for which lift, Rock Krawler hands down over Rubicon Express. Not even a close on there. 2.5” of lift you will avoid the driveshaft debacle, usually. Sometimes you have bad luck and need one anyway. My suggestion is the Rock Krawler 2.5” Max Travel. Comes with the control arms you need to correct pinion angle and caster.

As for driveshafts. Adams 1310 front and rear can be had for $625 delivered from a number of vendors here and elsewhere. That is by far the cheapest and they are just as good.

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Old 07-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #3
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Dan is right. And I agree.

One thing i'd like to add is drive shafts start getting "Iffy" at 3" of net lift.

I've seen a RK 2.5" kit give 4" of net lift. I've seen 2 different occasions where the stock drive shaft was lost. But with a 2.5" kit i've seen thousands run them successfully with stock drive shafts.

Adam's Driveshafts, i've heard good stuff. Good customer support.

I am not a fan of their flange replacement at the differential side. It just seems to be the weak point. And that's probably why they're cheaper then most of the big name companies.

JE Reel, Coast, Tom Woods, these guys all replace the yoke at the differential side where Adam's do not. This is a pro for DIYers where you can play it safely and not have to mess around with the pinion nut at the diff. And it's probably a CON for the hardcore guys.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:09 PM   #4
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Can you name some vendors on best deal for Adam's?
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #5
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Adam's is a vendor I believe and you can go directly to them.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:13 PM   #6
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Sorry I didn't answer the question, really...

Yes you will need to buy a drive shaft with 3.5" of lift. Over time they both will fail. And depending on how much you off road and the style of your off roading, the drive shafts will only last a lesser time.

Where four doors are better on rear drive shafts, if you want to get a 3.5" kit I would get the front first (assuming you have a jku) and don't worry about the rear for a while.

On my two door I ran stock front and rear shafts for 22K miles before my rear gave out first and my front gave out right/soon after at 23K miles. 95%dd 5% off road.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:13 PM   #7
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Can you name some vendors on best deal for Adam's?
Adams JK Front and Rear Drive Shaft

$625 to your door for both front and rear.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:14 PM   #8
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Our four door is on 5" of lift on the rear and still has an OEM shaft. Yes the middle boot is gone but that isn't much of an issue.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:31 PM   #9
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thanks for the input guys. probably lean towards the rk 2.5 max travel just to ensure no driveshaft problems. if i plan on running 35x12.50s should i get a 1 inch body lift to ensure theres no rubbing? or will the 2.5 inch allow for no rubbing issues?
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:42 PM   #10
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thanks for the input guys. probably lean towards the rk 2.5 max travel just to ensure no driveshaft problems. if i plan on running 35x12.50s should i get a 1 inch body lift to ensure theres no rubbing? or will the 2.5 inch allow for no rubbing issues?
honestly, i'd put in 1" spacers over the body lift. Body lifts are not recommended.

There are plenty of people who run 2.5" of lift with no rubbing. but that was definitely not the case for me.

You will need to buy wheel spacers if you plan on using OEM wheels. Back spacing of 4.5" or less required.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:02 PM   #11
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im new to the whole jeep scene so pardon my ignorance. when u say 1inch spacers, do u mean coil spacers or are u strictly talking about wheel spacers?
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:19 PM   #12
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im new to the whole jeep scene so pardon my ignorance. when u say 1inch spacers, do u mean coil spacers or are u strictly talking about wheel spacers?
1" coil spacers. they got on top of the coil and guide on the inside.

you still need 1.5" wheel spacers as well / regardless. (if youre using factory wheels)
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:39 PM   #13
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More than likely will not need additional clearance for 35’s on a 2.5” lift, but if need be I agree with the 1” coil spacer or even ¾” spacer addition. However, keep in mind adding a coil spacer will now net your lift to around 3.25 or 3.5”, essentially negating why you went with 2.5” of lift anyway (keeping OEM driveshaft).

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Old 07-30-2012, 05:16 PM   #14
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im new to the whole jeep scene so pardon my ignorance. when u say 1inch spacers, do u mean coil spacers or are u strictly talking about wheel spacers?
I am pretty new to the modding jeep scene too but from everything I have read skip the wheel spacers and buy some new wheels. If your investing in a lift and new tires spend the few extra bucks and get the wheels. There are so many options that look much better thank the stocks any ways!
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:30 PM   #15
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^^ dont skip the wheels if you plan on trashing them though. then youre gonna kick yourself in the butt for buying expensive things that end up getting used anyway.



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Old 07-30-2012, 07:32 PM   #16
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yeah i would most likely get some cheaper rims. plus i dont think the stock sport wheels can fit 35 x 12.50s
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:48 PM   #17
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thanks for the input guys. probably lean towards the rk 2.5 max travel just to ensure no driveshaft problems. if i plan on running 35x12.50s should i get a 1 inch body lift to ensure theres no rubbing? or will the 2.5 inch allow for no rubbing issues?
I have a 2.5 suspension lift and I put on the RC 1.25 body lift and I can't seem to find a con to it. I wanted a bit more lift w/o fubaring my drive shafts or having to add adjustable LCAs and tracbars to correct possible handeling issues brought about by a lift over 3 inches.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:58 AM   #18
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yeah i am just worried about possible rubbing during extreme articulation if i change out my bumpers and add a winch (sagging). i know body lifts arent the best solution but may be my only option given my budget and fact i want only a 2.5 inch suspension lift and want to steer clear from replacing my driveahafts

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