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Old 04-25-2011, 10:09 AM   #1
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New Lift!

Folks,

Installed a ~2.5" lift on my JKU this weekend and thought I’d offer a write-up.

Out of the gate though, I need to give a huge thanks to our fellow forum member ESP123 who drove all the way out to my house to spend the day Saturday helping me out. That extra set of hands and eyes was a great help.

Now . . . .

Materials. This isn’t any particular lift. Instead, it’s an assemblage of (1) Mopar heavy duty coils from here, (2) DayStar 3/4" coil spacers, and (3) front and rear Old Man Emu Nitrocharger gas shocks for 0-2” of lift.

Install. Technically easy, physically tough.
Technical – jack front axles and insert jack stands; remove wheels; jack front of frame and insert jack stands; undo the brake lines and sway bar links and remove stock shocks; support front axle with jack and remove stands; droop front axle slowly using jack until stock coils can be easily removed; insert DayStar spacers and new coils; jack up front axle again and support with stands; install new shocks; reattach brake lines and sway bar links. Torque everything to spec. Then repeat on the rear axle.

Physical - Learned a valuable lesson about having the right tools and location for the job. We did the front end on my not perfectly level gravel driveway with a bottle jack and the factory scissor jack. This proved to be tortuously painstaking, dangerous, and ultimately added A LOT of time. Looking back, it was also stupid. We actually ended up bending the crappy stock scissor jack and had we not been being so careful with the use of jack stands that could've resulted in jeep dropping--wheeless--to the driveway. I went to Lowes the next day and got this floor jack and finished up the rear axle on my own. Much, much easier and safer.
Results. Before and after pics are attached. I got about 2.5” all the way around and think it looks great. Further, the ride is fantastic—far superior to stock. Much less bouncy, which makes it clear to me that the stock hydro shocks were actually underdampening my factory coils. The current coils are even stiffer, but well within the OME shocks’ tolerances. As a result, the ride is both stiffer and smoother. Almost hard to describe. Huge improvement. My steering may be a touch left of center, but I’m not sure if it was always like that and I’m only noticing it now. I’ll fix that next weekend.

Cost. Including taxes and shipping, Mopar HD coils ($160), DayStar spacers ($50), and OME shocks ($340), for a to-my-door total of $550. That doesn’t include a few new tools I had to pick up (such as the floor jack), but I would have needed those no matter what lift I bought and of course get to keep them for the future, so I’m happy with that.

Any concerns? Only that it will settle too much. I like it right where it is, so I'm hoping it won't lose too much height over the next few weeks. I think I've got a chance of that if the the HD coils in fact don't have much settle in them. Of course, I could always replace the DayStar spacers with bigger ones or swap in some bigger coils . . . .

Recommended? So far, yes. It's a reasonable self-install and is pretty inexpensive when you consider that you're getting gas shocks and heavy duty coils. You're actually improving your suspension, not just boosting it. For comparison, here's OME's official 2" lift kit, which appears to come with the same shocks and I would expect would be close to $800 once you added taxes and shipping. Of course, that kit includes a track bar bracket, but that's only $85 and so far doesn't appear to be necessary for the 2.5" boost I've gotten.
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2010 JKU "Mountain" Edition
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:20 AM   #2
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Nice Job. Similar to what I did and love how mine turned out too. Well other then I paid someone to do mine

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Old 04-25-2011, 10:31 AM   #3
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Nice job MTH, I use that Lowes 2˝ ton jack in Nevada ALL the time-

Of course, you remembered the "isolators"-or did Daystar say to leavem off ""

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Old 04-25-2011, 10:36 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
Of course, you remembered the "isolators"-or did Daystar say to leavem off
Nope, you're right--they stay on and the DayStars go right over the top of them.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:48 AM   #5
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Awesome!!!!!!
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:57 AM   #6
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Looks really good!
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:00 AM   #7
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I'm particularly liking the yellow OME shocks under the blue Mountain. Congrats on getting everything done and yes...a floor jack would have made it easier but given us less time to talk Jeeps during the install.
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:18 AM   #8
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Looks GREAT!. I want my lift now
thanks for the write-up
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:51 AM   #9
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Looks great ! New tires soon ?
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:58 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by repoman100 View Post
Looks great ! New tires soon ?
Thanks.

Yep, new tires would be nice. I'll be heading to 33s next. But . . . .

To do 33s, I'll want a ProCal and a regear (I'm only on 3.21s now). And if I do a regear, I'll want to put a Detroit TrueTrac in each differential at the same time. That's $2k before I even get the tires.

So I'm going to let the BFGs run their course, and hopefully get to do the regear/LSDs before new tires become absolutely necessary.
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:00 PM   #11
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Looks great, and nice write up!! How many beers did it take to do the job??
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:03 PM   #12
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Looks great MTH. Thanks for the detailed write up. Do you happen to have the part number of the springs?
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:08 PM   #13
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Looks great, and nice write up!! How many beers did it take to do the job??
ZERO. Go ahead and try doing this with the el-crappo factory scissor jack on a slightly unlevel gravel driveway. Tell me how many beers you want during this process.

Now afterwards is a different story . . . .

Quote:
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Looks great MTH. Thanks for the detailed write up. Do you happen to have the part number of the springs?
Yep.

Front = 52126319AB
Rear = 68004460AA

You need two each, obviously.
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:54 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Thanks.

Yep, new tires would be nice. I'll be heading to 33s next. But . . . .

To do 33s, I'll want a ProCal and a regear (I'm only on 3.21s now). And if I do a regear, I'll want to put a Detroit TrueTrac in each differential at the same time. That's $2k before I even get the tires.

So I'm going to let the BFGs run their course, and hopefully get to do the regear/LSDs before new tires become absolutely necessary.

I have 3.21s as well and wasn't planning on getting new tires right away but was able to sell my 32s bfgs for a great price and shifted to 33s. Power loss is noticeable but I got used to it now plus I'm getting better highway mileage.
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:08 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by repoman100 View Post
I have 3.21s as well and wasn't planning on getting new tires right away but was able to sell my 32s bfgs for a great price and shifted to 33s. Power loss is noticeable but I got used to it now plus I'm getting better highway mileage.
I might end up swapping the tires before the diffs, but remember my 4 door is probably a good 500 pounds heavier than your 2 door. Losing acceleration would not be cool. How is it that you're getting better mileage with 33s by the way? That'd be nice . . . .
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:10 PM   #16
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How is it that you're getting better mileage with 33s by the way? That'd be nice . . . .
My comparison is based on a setup with 265/70/17 winter tires, stock suspension height.

Don't know if it has anything to do with this but before,

my engine was at 2000-2200 RPM at 110-120 kmph (70/75 mph).

Now, same speed, my engine's RPM is at 1700-1900.

I have a drop in MPG in the city though...

So many factors may be involved here such as rubber compounds of winter vs Mt tires and outdoor temperatures but I remember having similar MPG as this winter with my 255/75/17 BFGs last summer.
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:56 PM   #17
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Looks great MTH. I couldn't imagine trying to do that without a hydraulic jack. Guess I'm lucky enough to live on a farm where we already have all the tools I need. I think you'll definitely be more than happy with your jack purchase. Now I just need the lift to put on with the tools we have. Haha
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP123
I'm particularly liking the yellow OME shocks under the blue Mountain. Congrats on getting everything done and yes...a floor jack would have made it easier but given us less time to talk Jeeps during the install.
True true--there was much opportunity for talking Jeeps. BUT, you got to admit that watching that Jeep "lilt" ever so slightly on that scissor jack was fairly unnerving! Word to the wise folks: Don't try it. Floor jack all the way.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repoman100 View Post
My comparison is based on a setup with 265/70/17 winter tires, stock suspension height.

Don't know if it has anything to do with this but before,

my engine was at 2000-2200 RPM at 110-120 kmph (70/75 mph).

Now, same speed, my engine's RPM is at 1700-1900.

I have a drop in MPG in the city though...

So many factors may be involved here such as rubber compounds of winter vs Mt tires and outdoor temperatures but I remember having similar MPG as this winter with my 255/75/17 BFGs last summer.
Say, i don't want to doubt your numbers but i've been doing some online research into lifts and tire changes and one site that have used as a reference calculates tire diameters based off the tire specs. Plugging your before and after specs in it looks like your present tires are actually 1" less in diameter than the before tires? Do they appear that way to you? I know the "70" in the after spec is the ratio of side wall height to tire width a lower number here would seem to make sense in a smaller diameter even though the after tire is a wider tread.

I am really interested in what people's experiences have been when changing to larger diameter tires without changing diff ratios. Especially in acceleration. I have a 2008 4dr with auto tran and 4.11(i think). Presently it has the 255/75/17 on it. I am looking at going to 285/70/17. Per this website Tire Diameter Calculator I'll be adding about 3/4" diameter. Will this make enough difference in acceleration to warrant changing diff gearing?

Thx
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:36 PM   #20
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great job and excellent write up.
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:14 PM   #21
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This question was asked in the related "JK Lift Review" thread post for this lift, so I'm answering here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenman View Post
This is just the kind of review I was looking for. How does it feel at highway speeds? When cornering? Any wobble or shimmy?
I expect the boost beyond the top end of "stock" is much too small (~3/4") to have any of the wobbling, shimmying, or other handling issues that can arise with larger lifts.

The fact is the suspension is simply better. Better coils. Better shocks. I'm better sprung and better dampened, so the handling is all around better. My coils are stiffer, so I don't "roll" in corners like I used to, and when they compress (e.g., pot holes, rough terrain) they do so less than before and then pop back out more quickly. That would've resulted in a more jarring ride, but my shocks are so much better that the additional bounce is promptly dampened much better than my prior shocks did on my weaker coils.

Everything is better. Nothing is worse.
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:23 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajalco View Post
Say, i don't want to doubt your numbers but i've been doing some online research into lifts and tire changes and one site that have used as a reference calculates tire diameters based off the tire specs. Plugging your before and after specs in it looks like your present tires are actually 1" less in diameter than the before tires? Do they appear that way to you? I know the "70" in the after spec is the ratio of side wall height to tire width a lower number here would seem to make sense in a smaller diameter even though the after tire is a wider tread.

I am really interested in what people's experiences have been when changing to larger diameter tires without changing diff ratios. Especially in acceleration. I have a 2008 4dr with auto tran and 4.11(i think). Presently it has the 255/75/17 on it. I am looking at going to 285/70/17. Per this website Tire Diameter Calculator I'll be adding about 3/4" diameter. Will this make enough difference in acceleration to warrant changing diff gearing?

Thx


I was comparing my winter setup 265/70/17 with my current setup 285/70/17.

I had the 255/75/17 last year before my winter setup.

swapping from a 32 inch to a 33 inch made a difference for me in acceleration because I have the lowest gear ratio (3.21). Thankfully I drive a manual transmission and own a 2 door which helps in the power loss.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:44 PM   #23
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Great job. Awesome!... and the Jeep looks sweet. Jealousy consumes me ATM...

Noob question here... do you have to do anything to the wheels or tires after changing the suspension... for example alignment?
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by j33pZ View Post

Great job. Awesome!... and the Jeep looks sweet. Jealousy consumes me ATM...

Noob question here... do you have to do anything to the wheels or tires after changing the suspension... for example alignment?
Thanks!

Technically: Yes. Practically, for this lift: Nah.

As I understand it, any change will have repercussions throughout the system. A larger lift almost always requires an alignment, steering adjustments, etc. And indeed, my steering wheel might be a touch off center, though that may have always been the case. The alignment appears to have not changed.

Remember--the HD coils are actually a stock item. Therefore, I'm really only 3/4" outside of stock parameters. That's almost a factory setting.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:00 PM   #25
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looks good!!
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:53 PM   #26
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Nice work, it looks great. This kind of thing is so satisfying, and really motivating.

I've been thinking about sourcing coils and shocks and putting together my own "kit" too, but was worried about the unknown factor - how did you know how much height this setup would get you?
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:07 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by chrisojk
I've been thinking about sourcing coils and shocks and putting together my own "kit" too, but was worried about the unknown factor - how did you know how much height this setup would get you?
I didn't.

The pucks are obviously 3/4", but the coils were a guess. Plenty of two doors have gotten 2"+ from upgrading to Mopar HD coils, but 2 doors weigh less and generally start from weaker coils to begin with. Ultimately, my goal was to significantly improve my suspension while getting a noticeable--albeit modest--lift. I added the pucks to "guarantee" at least some lift and figured whatever the coils added would be a bonus.
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Old 05-07-2011, 01:37 PM   #28
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is that the comfort ride lift by daystar ?
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:22 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Chris4
is that the comfort ride lift by daystar ?
chris
Yes, as to the coil spacer portion of the lift (I go some lift from the new coils as well). I linked to the lift in the first post, so you'll see exactly which one if you click on it.

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