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New to me! And a few questions....one looks bad!!!

4K views 46 replies 27 participants last post by  cdw54321 
#1 ·
Yesterday bought a 2012 JK sport. Really enjoying it and feel I got a good price at 22k with 50k miles. From the jeep dealer here in my town. Was not certified.

Seems to drive right. A few small trim items were missing, but wanting to tinker with it, I made the "take 500 more off the price and I'll fix the issues myself" argument.

We drove around about 50 miles yesterday...top down...nice day!

Then I pulled into the driveway with the check engine light on! P0304 4th cylinder misfire!!!

I took a picture of my code reader and cleared the code only to have it back on in another 20 miles...cleared it again with photo documentation.

The carfax was clean but did mention an oil cooler line service last year at 37k miles, same dealer. I am planning to have them show me the full service history they have, I didn't do that yesterday.

Obviously, the jeep needs a new left cylinder head based on the code. The build date is 3/12. Should I just let them do the work...or have I been taken a little here?

I liked all the guys I dealt with in the dealer. They immediately came off a 24.9k web price to 22.9k without asking before I ever even started to haggle. I have 3 days to give the jeep back for a refund...was this a known issue, hence the discount?

Also, I am missing a few of the bolts/washers that hold up the soundbar. What part number are they?

These other missing trim parts are minor...(seat belt covers, dash blank, some other soundbar blank I think.

Before I really fix any other things or begin any mods I have to make a call on the cylinder head!

Fix it...walk away and find another...or return it and make them deal with me on a new order...please help!

Great forum here!

Jason
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to the forum

Ohh man, if possible i would drop and extra 3 or 4k and get a 2015. It sounds like they are trying to get rid of a problem to make money later.

Where are you located?
 
#14 · (Edited)
Tire nitrogen? Paint protection?

I'd run away!

(FYI, cars come with paint protection - it's called clear coat and wax. And tires are just fine with air from the hose - it's worked pretty well for 150 years so far. So I guess my point is that if your dealer is going to so blatantly try these scams, what else is he doing?)
 
#27 ·
Thank you, Could not pass it up when I seen it. Its a "base" Willy's. No power options on the inside. Only thing I had put in was the Bluetooth connectivity. Gotta have my pandora radio. Out the door was 26,800. Started at 31,900 on the sticker. Got it March 4th...

Hope you find a good deal without problems..
 
#10 ·
Here's my two cents. While bolts and seat belt covers are minor, I'd seriously question what else the previous owner didn't take care of. If they can't keep seat belt covers on they were probably too lazy to do anything else. The oil line issue was a recall if I remember as I had on my '12.

Regarding prep fees…I walked away from the deal as I refused to pay the prep fee and the other tacked on fees the dealer had. I just got out the door and the sales guy came back and said they'll remove the fees…bought it.

While I had looked at used back in 2012, I ended up buying new since it was only a few thousand more. It's hit or miss with any new vehicle regardless of make these days. I've had more problems with wife's honda minivan than my jeep.
 
#12 ·
I would take it back and get a new one. Sounds like the prior owner did some mods and put the oem equipment back on when he traded. Could be an off lease vehicle as well. Then you have the cylinder issue.
Go new. No sense having a jeep with 50k miles when a new one can be bought for a few bucks more
 
#15 ·
Sounds like the prior owner did some mods and put the oem equipment back on when he traded. Could be an off lease vehicle as well.
Exactly what I was thinking. Careful and don't be in a rush... see if the dealer will come down a bit more AND do the head work. But yeah like the other guys say... you are already close a new base wrangler price as it is. I'd rather new with a few less creature comforts than an optioned out one already starting to show problems. Good luck. ;)
 
#16 · (Edited)
I'd return that Jeep and find another dealer!

Dealers doing "market adjustment" stickers and adding fake charges like "nitrogen fills" belong to the pre-Internet era! Seriously, unless you are buying a 2015 Hellcat or a 2016 Ford GT, where market demand truly outstrips supply, no dealer should be marking up anything.

The moment a dealer tries to get away with that kind of stuff it is assuming that I, and every other buyer, are all idiots, plain and simple, and doesn't deserve my business.

Worse comes to worse, there now are buying services like TrueCar, or those offered through AAA, Costco, and every single Credit Union that will get you up-front, pre-negotiated prices on new-vehicles, even on brisk-selling Wranglers.

Aldo
 
#17 ·
I'd return that Jeep and find another dealer! Dealers doing "market adjustment" stickers and adding fake charges like "nitrogen fills" belong to the pre-Internet era! Seriously, unless you are buying a 2015 Hellcat or a 2016 Ford GT, where market demand truly outstrips supply, no dealer should be marking up anything. The moment a dealer tries to get away with that kind of stuff it is assuming that I, and every other buyer, are all idiots, plain and simple, and doesn't deserve my business. Worse comes to worse, there now are buying services like TrueCar, or those offered through AAA, Costco, and every single Credit Union that will get you pre-negotiated new-vehicle prices, even on brisk-selling Wranglers. Aldo
This.
 
#18 ·
My local dealer puts a side sticker on all his vehicles. The top line is a "Price Adjustment" of $995, next is the pinstripe $69, wheel locks $84 and tag bracket $41.18. My 2015 JKU Sahara was fifth vehicle I have purchased from them and the previous one was a used 2003 TJ Rubicon with 112K on it. The current sales manager sold me all the vehicles up to the Rubi and his half brother sold me the last two. Almost before I got set down, he took the $995 off. (As they have on all the previous purchases, even the Rubicon). Pinstripe - yeah it's there and subtle as it a black pinstripe on Anvil. He puts wheel locks on all their vehicles with alloy wheels. A little high, but saved me the hassle of ordering them and putting them on myself. I figured the tag bracket was in the pile of goodies in the back (freedom top bag, grab handles, hanger brackets, tool kit, etc) but it was not. I went back and asked them about it and the salesman said it should be on, took it back to service and about 20 minutes later came back red faced. They no longer have a front tag bracket for a Jeep Wrangler, if you have a front tag (Georgia does not, but I have a personal front plate) there are two dimples where you use two of the six screws provided in the goodie bag to attach the plate. They then cut me a refund check of $49.

Some feel that nitrogen in the tires is better (but more expensive) than air as it runs cooler. Waste of money in my opinion in a Jeep because if you are a serious off roader you are going to be airing the tires up and down. Plus the vehicle is light enough that it would be hard to get a load in one heavy enough to stress the tire weight limit and I would not want to be in a Jeep that exceeded the speed rating.

The price/value adjustment on the side sticker is simply a negotiating tool. Those who know that get it taken off right away. If you are trading in a vehicle, the bottom line difference is what is important. Know the value of what you are trading in and the value of what you are buying. Remember they make a little on a new car sale, and usually make more on the used vehicles. I met the original owner of my Rubicon at a Scouting event (he recognized the vehicle quickly and it has a snorkle on it) and we talked. He told me what he had gotten in trade for his new vehicle (not a Jeep). I was shocked as he got about half of the TI book on it. But I also got 4 pages of what they had done to the vehicle before it hit the lot.

Before you make the final decision, go out, put the top up and put as much water on it as you can to check for leaks. If that is the original top, it is now about three years old and getting close to the time they go bad. My top did not leak when I first got the Rubi but it was real bad about buffeting on the highway. When I got to three leaks after six months I invested in a Bestop twill replacement with tinted windows. Best $520 I ever spent as I no longer have any leaks and no buffeting. My leaks were found the old fashioned way - wet spots after a heavy rain, but you need to check it out now.
 
#19 ·
Get rid of that thing before it's too late. I paid $23k for a brand new one with AC, 3.73s, premium top and Sirius. No way would I pay $22k for one with 50k miles and problems. Sorry, that's a bad buy.
 
#20 ·
"The price/value adjustment on the side sticker is simply a negotiating tool. Those who know that get it taken off right away."

The problem with this is that instead of negotiating with a *starting point* of manufacturer's list price, you're starting from a point almost $1500 higher. So you're spending some of your "negotiating capital" and energy just to get to where most people start.

"Hey, we came down $1500, now you have to come up $1500" is the scam.
 
#21 ·
It's hard to say if the price is good or bad based on the info...depending on options 2 door Sports can get over 30k which is crazy to me. My biggest pet peeve is dealers that throw factory 17" wheels/tires on a base base model used Jeep and try to sell it for more than it cost when it was new. I've seen that so many times.

As far as the cylinder head issue, it is covered under warranty so if you can deal with that hassle its not too bad. Some people think an extra 3-4k for a new Jeep is no big deal, but for me that is a lot of money. Only you can look at your finances and figure out what you need to do. Good luck.
 
#23 ·
Planning to take it in tomorrow. There is no return clause in my sales paperwork, some dealers do a 3 day no questions deal. I will see how they respond and update you guys. From what I can tell with this one, it was originally about 30k..a/c, auto, premium sound, 17" wheels (new tires), feels like 3.73:1..I will ask for a build sheet. Thx for all input
 
#25 ·
Jeep Wranglers and pickup trucks are the last vehicles I would buy used. These vehicles are subject to abuse. I rather buy new have a warranty and break it myself. Maybe if I was a crackerjack mechanic and had the room and would do the work myself I would buy used.
I really do hate all the games dealerships pull the squeeze every bleeping dime out of you.
 
#28 ·
Your first real drive and the check engine light turns on. What else is lurking to happen?

Priced a fully loaded 2015 JK Sport at $32K on the jeep website. You should be able to knock that down a few $K. Not just a few dollars more unfortunately.

There are other benefits to the 2015 than just the warranty to consider. If you keep your vehicles for long the added cost could be worth it. Add in the Mopar Lifetime Warranty and you could be a happy camper for a long time.
 
#29 ·
My son has a meticulously pampered '12 JKU with head code repeating despite 2 warranty replacements. He says the only way to tell 'something is wrong' is by the code display, as he notices no performance changes.

re: " No way would I pay $22k for one with 50k miles and problems. Sorry, that's a bad buy. " I agree with this sentiment.
 
#33 ·
I got my JKU just before the cold winter with those nitrogen filled tires and I still got a TPMS light the first day it went below -1. Nitrogen is useless. I have an electric air pump from Canadian tire that works just fine!
 
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