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Old 07-02-2013, 02:18 PM   #1
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Newbie/Future JKU owner, need wheel/lift advice

Hey all,

I’ve been lurking on these forums for a little, and this is my first ( and certainly not last) post. Just a little background:
I currently live in Miami. I’ve driven a Scion tC, Honda Civic, and now currently drive a Hyundai Genesis coupe. It seems that every young guy in this city drives the typical BMW, Audi, or Mercedes and they all say the same thing- absolutely nothing. I love the smaller, quicker cars, but I feel like I’ve matured out of that phase and now I want something big. Something I can make my own. Something I can have fun with.

Let me say right off that I don’t, at THIS point, plan on off-roading it. I love the fact that should I choose to get into that down the line, I’ll have the perfect jeep to do it in. But for now, I plan to make my jeep a badass mall crawler. Cruise around and have fun, take the top and doors off and take down to the Keys on the weekends. So now on to the point of this thread….
Hate all you want, but I very much like the look of a black on black jeep, lifted with some 20” Rockstars on it. I think I like a little more wheel than tire (flame suit on). As a college student on a budget, I want this look (EXACTLY like the pics below), and want to know just how much I should have to budget for it. I think 35’s and a 3” lift would be perfect with it, but I’ve been seeing threads on here about leveling kits and stabilizers, etc. which Im sure can add up to some serious $$$ quick. Would I need all of that, considering I don’t plan on offroading it at this time? What WIDTH of tire should I go for? Regearing it to maintain some somewhat decent MPGs? Sorry if all this stuff has been asked already but I just want some concrete answers. Any input is greatly appreciated!










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Old 07-02-2013, 02:33 PM   #2
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dubs and 35's = mall crawler. do not expect to go offroading w/out scratching those expensive wheel of yours. were not hating on the decision...its just more practical to go with a cheaper/lighter setup. 15's - 17's are the go getters. 18's pushing it...and dubs...mall crawl.

2.5 lifts will net u more than 2.5 so you will be safe. it won't alter the geometry as much and your driveline will still be ok. if you plan on going offroad and plan on articulation, front lca, and rear upper ca is all u need. rear trackbar brackbar bracket and you'll be fine. steering stabilizer is not needed...drive it first. levelers?

now back to dubs and 35's. with the weight of the tires, you may want to consider getting a rear tire carrier since it will add too much stress on the stock tailgate, gusset ur axle c's for strength too, and possibly sleeve ur axle's since you plan to go offroad. regear is probably optional but not mandatory, but you'll want em if you do go offroad.

be advised that this is a hypothetical answer to your 20's and 35's to play safe.

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Old 07-02-2013, 02:33 PM   #3
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For no wheeling, I'd got with an AEV 2.5 - 3.5" lift. AEV is known for better road handling, though not as good for wheeling. 2.5" would probably be preferable because it won't require a front driveshaft and steering correction. 3.5" would require those which would add around $1000 to the parts/labor list.

For width, you'd be fine with 12.5", but 11.5" would give you a better turning radius. Though I'm not sure what widths will be available in a 20".

Many will tell you not to do 20's. It's your Jeep! Since you're not planning to wheel it, 20's will be fine.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dawhitesJKU View Post
dubs and 35's = mall crawler. do not expect to go offroading w/out scratching those expensive wheel of yours. were not hating on the decision...its just more practical to go with a cheaper/lighter setup. 15's - 17's are the go getters. 18's pushing it...and dubs...mall crawl.

2.5 lifts will net u more than 2.5 so you will be safe. it won't alter the geometry as much and your driveline will still be ok. if you plan on going offroad and plan on articulation, front lca, and rear upper ca is all u need. rear trackbar brackbar bracket and you'll be fine. steering stabilizer is not needed...drive it first. levelers?

now back to dubs and 35's. with the weight of the tires, you may want to consider getting a rear tire carrier since it will add too much stress on the stock tailgate, gusset ur axle c's for strength too, and possibly sleeve ur axle's since you plan to go offroad. regear is probably optional but not mandatory, but you'll want em if you do go offroad.

be advised that this is a hypothetical answer to your 20's and 35's to play safe.
i meant level kit. so you're saying I'd be ok with 35's on a 2.5" lift (regardless of the wheel size i go with)? or would you recommend something smaller like 33's?

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For no wheeling, I'd got with an AEV 2.5 - 3.5" lift. AEV is known for better road handling, though not as good for wheeling. 2.5" would probably be preferable because it won't require a front driveshaft and steering correction. 3.5" would require those which would add around $1000 to the parts/labor list.

For width, you'd be fine with 12.5", but 11.5" would give you a better turning radius. Though I'm not sure what widths will be available in a 20".

Many will tell you not to do 20's. It's your Jeep! Since you're not planning to wheel it, 20's will be fine.
I just feel like the rockstars look good when larger, but i'll definitely look into a smaller size.

Thanks for the quick responses guys I appreciate it!
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #5
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Ugh, rockstars are horrible and "overplayed".
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:47 PM   #6
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you'll be ok w/ 35's on a 2.5 lift. if you have the stock fenders, get some bumpstops to limit travel.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:52 PM   #7
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Ugh, rockstars are horrible and "overplayed".
agreed on their "common-ness," but i do enjoy the look nonetheless. I'm certainly keeping an eye out for different styles as well

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you'll be ok w/ 35's on a 2.5 lift. if you have the stock fenders, get some bumpstops to limit travel.
great, thanks for the tips! not sure if you saw my last edit to your response but would you recommend 33's instead?
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:53 PM   #8
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i meant level kit. so you're saying I'd be ok with 35's on a 2.5" lift (regardless of the wheel size i go with)? or would you recommend something smaller like 33's?



I just feel like the rockstars look good when larger, but i'll definitely look into a smaller size.

Thanks for the quick responses guys I appreciate it!
Even 18's would be better imo. Plus, the smaller the wheels are, the less expensive the tires will be. I would never go larger than 17" wheels with 35's, but that's because I wheel it. I have 15" wheels on 35's.
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:03 PM   #9
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budget will be the limiting factor as large wheels and the tires that go on them cost quite a bit of money.

some of those photos have a little more than 1K spent on wheels and about the same on the tires that wrap them.

Just look up the prices and see for yourself. I figure 2K easy to get the mall-ready look. To complete it, plan on another 5-600 bucks on various doo-dads or add-ons here and there. Much more if you do the ICE stuff the young 'uns like for tunes.

35" is the break over point for a serious look at your gear ratio, even in the flat expanses of south Florida. Factory 4.10 gearing with a 315 metric tire or a 35" tire may be a little sluggish, but you'd want to reflash the computer with an AEV procal to compensate for shift points on an automatic transmission.

Getting into taller than factory 4.10 gears is going to eat into your budget too, so you may want to make sure you get that factory option when you order. (Caveat: I know the MT Rubicons come with 4.10, I haven't followed the options on the 2014 models at all, so check that.)
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:26 PM   #10
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budget will be the limiting factor as large wheels and the tires that go on them cost quite a bit of money.

some of those photos have a little more than 1K spent on wheels and about the same on the tires that wrap them.

Just look up the prices and see for yourself. I figure 2K easy to get the mall-ready look. To complete it, plan on another 5-600 bucks on various doo-dads or add-ons here and there. Much more if you do the ICE stuff the young 'uns like for tunes.

35" is the break over point for a serious look at your gear ratio, even in the flat expanses of south Florida. Factory 4.10 gearing with a 315 metric tire or a 35" tire may be a little sluggish, but you'd want to reflash the computer with an AEV procal to compensate for shift points on an automatic transmission.

Getting into taller than factory 4.10 gears is going to eat into your budget too, so you may want to make sure you get that factory option when you order. (Caveat: I know the MT Rubicons come with 4.10, I haven't followed the options on the 2014 models at all, so check that.)
true. now that you guys mention the costs associated with the larger wheels/tires, as well as the MPGs id lose, and the need to upgrade the spare wheel carrier, I'm starting to think 33's would be more suitable (at least right now). I'll make sure to look in to the 4.10's.

Any suggestions as to tire width?
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:55 PM   #11
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true. now that you guys mention the costs associated with the larger wheels/tires, as well as the MPGs id lose, and the need to upgrade the spare wheel carrier, I'm starting to think 33's would be more suitable (at least right now). I'll make sure to look in to the 4.10's.

Any suggestions as to tire width?
Beware: quite a few folks that went with 33's regret it and wish they went 35's. I'd go 35's the first time and be done with it. You'll love the look.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #12
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Beware: quite a few folks that went with 33's regret it and wish they went 35's. I'd go 35's the first time and be done with it. You'll love the look.
Yea ive noticed a lot of that. Might just sit tight and keep an eye out for any JKs for sale that already have a nice setup, who knows. Thanks for the advice guys!
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:44 PM   #13
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Beware: quite a few folks that went with 33's regret it and wish they went 35's. I'd go 35's the first time and be done with it. You'll love the look.
Guilty!

I had 33's for about 9 months before biting the bullet and buying 35's. You take quite a loss by doing it that way.

Now I've had my 35's for about a year and want 37's. I'm hoping to be able to hold out a couple years.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:49 PM   #14
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Guilty!

I had 33's for about 9 months before biting the bullet and buying 35's. You take quite a loss by doing it that way.

Now I've had my 35's for about a year and want 37's. I'm hoping to be able to hold out a couple years.
Lol, 37's look best for sure on a JKU. I can't be using it as my DD though with 37's, so 35's is where I'm going to have to settle unless I get a second vehicle for work.
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:03 AM   #15
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Lol, 37's look best for sure on a JKU. I can't be using it as my DD though with 37's, so 35's is where I'm going to have to settle unless I get a second vehicle for work.
True, 37's aren't very practical for a DD. I'm pushing my wife to get a full size truck for a DD and family vehicle. Will probably have to wait until I can pull it off to move to 37's.

It's all subjective, and I wheel with guys that have 37's and one now has 40's. To me, 33's look too small for a JKU. 35's look 'right'.
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:11 AM   #16
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True, 37's aren't very practical for a DD. I'm pushing my wife to get a full size truck for a DD and family vehicle. Will probably have to wait until I can pull it off to move to 37's.

It's all subjective, and I wheel with guys that have 37's and one now has 40's. To me, 33's look too small for a JKU. 35's look 'right'.
Yep, 35's can certainly look good if it's as close to a true 35 as you can get. I'll be doing Toyo or Nitto when I make the jump.

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