As long as you are using Lucas motor oil and not a oil treatment would be fine. Personally, I would not bother. My previous vehicle was 2003 Toyota Tacoma with 190,000 miles when I traded it in. I had always used only synthetic oil, usually which ever was on the least expensive and i never had any problems.
I have a '12 JK and a '14 JKU. Both get the OEM filters (about the same price) and Mobil one full synthetic....IMO there is no need at this time for an oil treatment.
I also have an '04 TJ that gets either a Wix or Fram filter and Mobil one full synthetic. I started adding the Lucas oil treatment for the common "valve noise" issue...the TJ has 170K on the clock.
Bottom line your Jeep your choice...I don't think it would "hurt" but IDK if it would really help...there is also the opinion that full synthetic isn't needed in a Jeep....but that is a whole different discussion.
I've always used the cheapest oil and filter I can get my hands on and I've never had any issues. My longest running vehicle had just ticked over 450k before I hit a deer and totaled it.
I'd treat it like it was my bestest friend, truest love and give it only the finest oil money can by!
Ok, I'd stick with Castrol Edge, it's doing wonders for my daily driver, 211K and not a whiff of emissions on the last smog check (in May) runs like new. Regardless of which synthetic you prefer, Full Synthetics get the Scarlet Varlet seal of Approval.
Forget the lucas, use straight M1.
They only time I've found it's NOT cost effective to use synthetic oil, is if you're the type to change oil prematurely, or if the engine uses oil to the point of having to add a qt or more between changes.
This very question was asked on the Mobil 1 web site and this is what they said.
"Question:
Mobil 1 5W-20 and Chrysler MS-6395
Why is your Mobil 1 5W-20 not Chrysler MS-6395 spec approved? Or if it is, why is the certification not on the bottle or website?
-- Josh Eads, Cabot, AR
Answer:
Chrysler’s latest revision to the MS-6395 specification calls for a field trial spanning multiple seasons over two years. While we fully expect the exceptional performance of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to meet Chrysler’s specification requirements, at this time we are in the process of evaluating our timeline to start this testing."
So, it is not really that Mobil 1 oil is not approved by Chrysler, it just sounds like Mobil 1 has never bothered to do the required testing to show Chrysler that is meets their specs.
I'm not sure, I know it doesn't have the Chrysler designation on the back that other oils do, and that the owners manual says to look for. It's probably a political thing where Mobil 1 hasn't submitted the proper analasis and fees or something, I'm guessing I really have no idea.
The synthetic oils you are buying now have had virtually all of the zinc and phosphorus (anti-wear) removed (federal law) as they tend to shorten the life of the CCs. You can buy oil that is still fortified (i.e. Royal Purple HPS) or you can add an additive (i.e. Rislone ZDDP).
I've always run Royal Purple in my 1000hp corvette and I beat the crap out of that car and I've never had an oil related issue. I also run Royal Purple and Wix filters in my JK pentastar.
Mobil 1 isn't approved, but you can still use it with warranty intact.
Why isn't it approved? What I heard was that Mobil decided not to invest the time necessary to complete the certification. There are probably money issues involved, but don't know all those details.
For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
I use Valvoline pure Synthetic simply because they sposored Joe Amato and his top fuel team. Don't think you will even begin to approach the limits of any synthetic on the market today especially changing it every 5K miles. Unless you were maybe spinning it at 15,000 RPM in a formula car. Would not use additives of any kind, keep your synthetic pure and happy.
Snowboard.. Yeah I read your first post. This stuff has been around for decades - teflon was the big thing in the 90's.
The best approach is use good conventional or synthetic oil and change it on a routine schedule. If you're experiencing dry starts in cold climates you can drop to 0w20 during the winter months.
However, I would question if you're having dry starts. It could be the injectors making noise. Plus don't forget we have a DOHC motor, VVT and redlines at 6,500 RPM. It has rollers but my guess.. you may be hearing what could be considered normal for this engine.
The early HEMI's make a lot of drivetrain racket... modern Hemi's make noise as well.
The SRT8 engineers made recommendations for some to run 15w50...
Snowboard.. Yeah I read your first post. This stuff have been around for decades - teflon was the big thing in the 90's.
The best approach is use good conventional or synthetic oil and change it on a routine schedule. If you're experiencing dry starts in cold climates you can drop to 0w20 during the winter months.
I would question if you're having dry starts. It could be the injectors making noise. Plus don't forget we have a DOHC motor, VVT and redlines at 6,500 RPM. It has rollers but my guess.. you make be hearing what may be considered normal for this engine.
The early HEMI's make a lot of drivetrain racket... modern Hemi's make noise as well.
The SRT8 engineers made recommendations for some to run 15w50...
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