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Old 02-20-2011, 06:44 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31
I have had the Speakers at -40c and they work fine. I have driven down the highway with them at -42 doing 120kmh (75-80mph) no issues. They do look different in a heavy snowstorm, I don't have the glare blasting back at me, and they seem to punch threw better.
That is a good thing. I get some flickering on the vision x LEDs at startup when they have been sitting out in -35 or colder.

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Old 02-20-2011, 06:49 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by Hilldweller
Same as yours but we have a thing called "the Sun" down here...

*

Going out in a few minutes to take some pics; the Sun is setting.
A big thank-you to Stumpy, Mrs Stumpy, baby Stumpette, and Stumpy's Garage for the right tool to put these dang things in. His cutting bit ate through the composite material in about a minute. We did like Bear and shaved the buckets, turned the sensors to 45 degrees, and tightened it all up.

Again, disclaimer --- these are mods that are done at your own risk. I would never suggest that anyone alter safety devices in their or anyone else's Jeep. Stay in school, say "no" to drugs, wear a condom, don't run with scissors, etc.
What did he use? I used a dremel to smooth out a few things on the same type of composite just over the radiator to make room for the led mounting brackets and wiring. Cut it like butter.

We have the sun up here. It only comes out in the summer too. Then the damn thing stays up all night like a teenager.

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Old 02-20-2011, 07:03 PM   #153
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I don't know what Hilldweller and Stumpy used but Bear used a flapwheel in a die grinder.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:06 PM   #154
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I will trade you the 3 feet of snow and -20 temps for sun.... i would even through in a case of Canadian Beer.......
If you had added some peameal bacon, maybe.

*

Some numbers for the JW Speaker model 8700 7" round LEDs:

Ambient temperature 55 degrees F; lens temperature 69 degrees F

Lowbeam value in blue, high in red.

LUX at 25 feet, sensor moved to highest output spot. 630/1139

25 yards Right: 48/86 * Left: 16/17

50 yards Right: 6/30 * Left: 1/5

75 yards Right: 1/9 * Left: 1/3

They were the brightest in the center of the road so far. Their distance and side illumination fall short of the Z-Beams though ----- but they're LED...
Foreground illumination to the sides is nil for 30 feet or so; strange artifacts in that area too, especially on highbeam.

But it all seems to work when you drive; I never got annoyed by any of it at all.

I like'em enough to keep them in and continue to shake them down for a while. I'll hit a few deer-infested dirt roads tomorrow early.

Pics:

Lowbeam


Highbeam


and the first Lowbeam plus stock fogs
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:22 PM   #155
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Did you aim them to the specs Speaker wanted?
I got way more depth once I aimed them to John's specs.
He told me to measure to the center of the low beam projector, mark a wall 2.5 inches below that measurement and when parked on a level surface 25 feet away from said wall, aim the center of the beam at the tape line. The depth I have now is unreal. These things light up those reflective roads sign from about a klick and a half away.
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:44 PM   #156
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....standing by with rapt attention....

continued interest in more upgrades for my headlights....just have the Xtremes +80 which make me feel like I *can* go out after dark if necessary....
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:51 AM   #157
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Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
Did you aim them to the specs Speaker wanted?
I got way more depth once I aimed them to John's specs.
He told me to measure to the center of the low beam projector, mark a wall 2.5 inches below that measurement and when parked on a level surface 25 feet away from said wall, aim the center of the beam at the tape line. The depth I have now is unreal. These things light up those reflective roads sign from about a klick and a half away.
I always start with a 2.5" drop.

I have the camera set to remove light below a certain threshold; that keeps all the pictures consistent and gets rid of stray light from the moon, etc. All the light above 1 lux basically; that's why you can see more artifacts.

Remember, I'm a geek with the motto, "you can't fool meters". I'll tweak the aim after the drive to work today. If I aim up though, the close-range side illumination will get even worse; that's the lights' weak point.

Stumpy used a cutting drum for sheetmetal work. We literally did the passenger side in 12 seconds or so. My grinder at home melted the plastic and gummed-up every time; wrong tool for the job indeed.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:18 AM   #158
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I always start with a 2.5" drop.
...which I measured from the bottom LED instead of the top; I readjusted after my drive to work.

And a fun ride to work it was.

I left earlier than usual so I could hit some podunk dirt roads.
And, right on cue, I had a big deer jump a fence and land smack in the middle of the road in front of me. I saw it as made its leap and hit the brakes hard; got myself a little sideways and missed the beast by a good 15 feet.

I'd say the lights passed the test....

Should look even better tomorrow morning.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:34 AM   #159
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Other than aiming away from oncoming traffic, what is the rationale for the marked differences L/R lux readings, and just how is this accomplished?
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:19 PM   #160
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Other than aiming away from oncoming traffic, what is the rationale for the marked differences L/R lux readings, and just how is this accomplished?
I set my cones at intervals on the right and left side and measured the LUX at the exact same height each time. The reason being that straight-line illumination is a given at maximum intensity; every light brags about that. Fine.
But I want to see the dog/deer/kid before they're in front of me if I can. A good amount of light off to the sides can be the difference between "whoa, that was close" and "hello, State Farm?".
These Speakers were great for picking out road signs too.

Speaker and Truck-Lite also make oodles of supplemental & marker lights as well. I'm very curious about something that comes on fast to run with my highbeams; my HIDs take too long to warm up to be practical. And floods are always nice offroad when you want to find a campsite at night.

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Old 03-13-2011, 08:41 AM   #161
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Some numbers for the Delta Blue H4 "Xenon" bulbs in a Hella H4 reflector; bulbs are harnessed/relayed for optimal power.

Lowbeam value in blue, high in red.

LUX at 25 feet, sensor moved to highest output spot. 339/653

25 yards Right: 20/33 * Left: 1/2

50 yards Right: 2/20 * Left: 1/2

75 yards Right: 1/9 * Left: 1/2



Pics:

Lowbeam


Highbeam


These bulbs yielded a very white light --- but not much of it. They also hurt our eyes when we did the "walk toward the Jeep" test, no matter if they were high or lowbeam.
Nobody wanted to take them home...
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:42 AM   #162
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Some numbers for the Phillips Xtreme +80 H4 bulbs in a Hella H4 reflector; bulbs are harnessed/relayed for optimal power.

Lowbeam value in blue, high in red.

LUX at 25 feet, sensor moved to highest output spot. 695/1619
Holy crap.

25 yards Right: 66/45 * Left: 2/2

50 yards Right: 10/30 * Left: 3/3

75 yards Right: 3/16 * Left: 2/2

And we measured 6 LUX dead center at 125 yards, unassisted by any supplemental driving lights. The Hella reflectors have a tremendous middle-of-the-road hot-spot, a little too much foreground light, and not enough off to the sides. But with a pair of supplemental lights to provide some light to the sides, they'd give you the most total light so far. The highbeams are a little too high as well ---- but a remarkable focus...



Pics:

Lowbeam


Highbeam


The lights lit up the rooftops in the neighborhood past the woods. You could see our shadows on the houses; about a quarter mile as the crow flies...
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:13 PM   #163
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Hilldweller: Please clarify your final, or at least current, "best" headlight combo package. I appreciate immensely your detailed photos & meter readings.

So far I reallyReally like the +80s you suggested. I'm not sure whether I need to further upgrade to upscale reflectors.

What is your final "best most economical choice" and cost if you don't mind posting?

So far I've left the stock 08 fog lights alone. Usually Jan/Feb this area has heavy monster fog regularly over a period of weeks but this season seems to have only the standard non-pervasive version that dissolves normally. The standard bulbs seem to work well enough for my purposes in that use.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:13 AM   #164
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Hey I was wondering,since our rules (Canadian) for lighting refer back to yours; what is the legal limit for wattage for headlight bulbs? I assumed it is 55/65 as these seem to be the wattage of all stock replacements. So does anyone know what light bulbs are really legal?
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:46 AM   #165
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Hey I was wondering,since our rules (Canadian) for lighting refer back to yours; what is the legal limit for wattage for headlight bulbs? I assumed it is 55/65 as these seem to be the wattage of all stock replacements. So does anyone know what light bulbs are really legal?
Since H4s were initially only legal for motorcycles, there were bulbs put on the market specifically for them --- like the Osram Rallye 70/65.
And since it was legal then, it's still legal. Technically.
But if a Mountie gets in your face, you know how it goes.


Best combo Jake? That's hard to nail down.
If I lived in Florida or other flatland state, I guess I'd want the long-range blast from the Hella with either the Osram or Phillips bulb. I'd pair them with supplemental lighting too.
If I lived where I live, in the mountains, I'd pick Cibies or JW Speaker.
If I was a dedicated wheeler and thrashing my Jeep more, those Trucklites would be my pick for their ruggedness.
And if I liked the light from HID, I'd score the Valeo/Sylvania lights.

It's not really a one size fits all thing.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:14 AM   #166
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This is something I meant to upload and post a long time ago.

Before I installed the LEDs, I was curious about the PWM circuit and scoped it. This is a small slice of the spectrum analysis I did; it helped me figure out what's doing what in there, whys some things work better than others, etc.
Enjoy.

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Old 09-29-2011, 10:53 AM   #167
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To rebump this thread, those JW speaker lights look awesome; is the only way to get them installed to do some drastic alterations to your jeep that you wouldnt recommend, or have they been changed at all to be more plug and play friendly?
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:25 AM   #168
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To rebump this thread, those JW speaker lights look awesome; is the only way to get them installed to do some drastic alterations to your jeep that you wouldnt recommend, or have they been changed at all to be more plug and play friendly?
No.
It's actually gotten worse, sorta.

The '12s have the airbag sensor mounted more tamper-proof and you'd have to hump-up an additional mounting ring to shim the lights out. This mitigates much of the trimming that was previously needed; you only have to trim that outer ring. But you have to buy the ring, trim it, mount it, etc.

As for power, since a nominal 9v is all that's needed for full power, all you need is a set of pigtails with diodes and capicitors wired in. You don't need a full harness ---- just a short version. Rallylights could build it easily.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:40 AM   #169
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Ah I have a '11. As sexy as those look, I'd be hesitant to take a dremal to the mounting bracket. Does the modification to get the lights to fit have any bad side-effects? And does JW tell you exactly what to cut out, or do I have to look for posts like this thread to find approx the right thing to grind?

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