I heard body lifts mess with shift/steering linkage. I remember asking about a 2.5 to 3 inch suspension lift with a 1.5" body lift back when I first joined the site and I was advised not too because of this. Anyone here have any experience with this?
Unless you want to keep your stock fenders, a flat fender would give you more tire clearance than a body lift.
The Teraflex video makes the body lift sound like an easy option, but there are other things that need to be taken into account. Will the lift impact your steering shaft or make the steering wheel set closer to the dash? Will the transmission and transfer case shift selectors still move to the proper shifting locations without interference? Will your swing out tire carrier that is tied to the tailgate and to the bumper, which is tied to the frame, still work correctly or will there be some needed adjustments? Any electrical wiring that was run to the winch, custom lights mounted on the frame or bumper, etc... might require longer wires or rerouting. Just some things to think about with a body lift.
2012 Unlimited Rubicon
Deep Cherry Red Crystal Pearl
Did you add the tailgate supports for the extra weight? I know this is a touchy subject but some have seen the sheet metal tear/warp. I'm in the same boat except I'm doing 35x1250-r15's on my JKU.
I did not. I went with the spare tire extension, but I don't think it's necessary. Looks like there is plenty of room for the 35's without it. Eventually I'll get a new gate for the spare, but I'm spent for now.