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Old 11-06-2010, 01:09 PM   #1
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Planning on a regear

Well I think the time has come to bite the bullet and regear. I have a 2010 sport with a Teraflex 2.5" coil lift sporting 35" BFG KOs. From everything I have read it looks like I should go with 4.88s. I am currently running 3.21s and they are fine for town and running forest service roads but as soon as the terrain gets steep and gnarly 4Hi pretty much becomes useless. Me thinks it is definitely time for a regear.

I am not babying this bad boy as I already have some nice custom pin stripes from exploring Narnia!!!

What are the 4.88s like for everyday driving? Will it be like a tractor in town? Will I get back power going up long steep hills on the highway?

Could I live with 4.10s? From what I understand from the dealer if I go beyond 4.10s my warranty is done on that part of the drivetrain. I'm really not too worried about the warranty I want to install what is going to be the most functional.

Just some background info for you all. I have about 1500km on it now and at least 1100 are off road! I bought this baby instead of a quad.

Cheers. And thanks for all the info in advance.

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Old 11-06-2010, 01:33 PM   #2
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Don't know about the 3.21 gears, cause that's pretty HIGH gear'd

My JKU Rubi has 4.10 gears and I've got BIG 33" tires and an auto, but

Rather than regear I've used my AEV Procal Module to fool the tranny into thinking that I've got 5.13 gears and the performance is very adequate, but

With 3.21 gears, I think you should change-don't know about 4.88, cause your gonna have to get a programmer to correct your speeedo-anyway !!

Decision-decision-decision !!

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Old 11-06-2010, 01:37 PM   #3
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I've got a 6spd and I did pick up the AEV procal after I put the new tires on. Amazing how fast that handy little tool works.

If it was a mall crawler I would be good to go, but this bad boy tries to avoid all malls. Lol
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Old 11-06-2010, 01:53 PM   #4
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I have 4.88's and 35" mud terrains on my 6-speed. Highway over 70MPH is a bit loud (3K+ RPM's), and mileage isn't great (16ish), but I wheel it hard, so they're worth it- Mark W.
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Old 11-06-2010, 03:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003
I have 4.88's and 35" mud terrains on my 6-speed. Highway over 70MPH is a bit loud (3K+ RPM's), and mileage isn't great (16ish), but I wheel it hard, so they're worth it- Mark W.
I have the same setup. Do you think it's bad to run your RPMs at 3k for an extended time? I don't drive on the interstate much, so I'm usually at 55-60mph going up north. Haven't taken her very far yet.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:39 PM   #6
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Not sure about Jeeps as this is my first one.

I can tell you that on my single cylinder KLR650 I could do 5000+ RPM for a very long time with no issues. I think redline was around 6500-7000. Estimated lifetime on those engines are around 80,000km.
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:39 PM   #7
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Running ANY engine at high RPM for a long time will have negative effects on that engine's internals. Heat builds up much more rapidly at higher RPM's due to combustion, friction, etc. That's part of why you get worse fuel economy at high RPM's.
The lower your highway RPM's (within reason), the better your fuel economy SHOULD be. There are, of course, other factors, like wind resistance/drag, tire rolling resistance, and inclines to consider- Mark W.
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:53 PM   #8
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one other factor to keep in mind the lower the gears the smaller the parts.. dana 30 pinion is already small. Have you thought about a 4:1 t-case gearing?
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:06 PM   #9
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By the way, just read the whole post over: the warranty thing is a load of crap- they're trying to get you to buy OEM 4.10's and have them install them. ANY re-gear will void your warranty on MOST, if not all, axle parts.

As for swapping t-cases vs. re-gearing, while it's an option for a dedicated off-roader, it doesn't make much sense for a driven rig. Being undergeared is killing the OP's fuel economy and power on-road, which wouldn't be changed one bit by a deeper t-case gearset- Mark W.
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:15 PM   #10
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Since you have a Sport and 35" tires, 4.88s for a 6 speed and 5.13s for an automatic will give you the best performance and RPM range. Do it once and do it right.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by river2c
Since you have a Sport and 35" tires, 4.88s for a 6 speed and 5.13s for an automatic will give you the best performance and RPM range. Do it once and do it right.
You think 5.13s fir an auto is a bit much?!?
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopro269

You think 5.13s fir an auto is a bit much?!?
I think its wayyyyy to much. Maybe if you were thinking about running 4+ inches of lift and 37s you would need that gearing.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:59 AM   #13
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^ Amount of lift has NOTHING to do with gearing. As for 5.13's, that would be the proper gearing for 35's in the auto. They'd be too much for a 6-speed and 35's, but the auto needs lower gearing to compensate for wider gear ratio spread- Mark W.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:04 AM   #14
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Heh Heh, I was gonna say the same thing Duke, but


Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003 View Post
^ Amount of lift has NOTHING to do with gearing. As for 5.13's, that would be the proper gearing for 35's in the auto. They'd be too much for a 6-speed and 35's, but the auto needs lower gearing to compensate for wider gear ratio spread- Mark W.
Not near as pleasant as you did !!

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Old 11-08-2010, 08:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003
^ Amount of lift has NOTHING to do with gearing. As for 5.13's, that would be the proper gearing for 35's in the auto. They'd be too much for a 6-speed and 35's, but the auto needs lower gearing to compensate for wider gear ratio spread- Mark W.
When you jack a vehicle up in the air that already has awful aerodynamics, you make it even worse. Everything you do performance and weight wise affects the engine and transmission in one way or another.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:21 AM   #16
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But re-gearing is NOT the way to compensate for height. Re-gearing is used to compensate for larger tires, as tires act as the last set of gears in the drivetrain. You can lift a vehicle 40 feet, and changing the gear ratio will only change your torque band. Adding power to compensate for lift height, ok, but gearing merely shifts the torque band- it doesn't give you any additional power- Mark W.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:33 PM   #17
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Ok so it's looking like 4.88s are the way to go. What about 4.56s? Less torque up the hills but lower RPM on the highway (plus better fuel mileage)? I'm not too worried about the fuel economy after I have a badass jeep that I can take anywhere.

Your right regarding the 4.10s. That is the highest that they will install on the lot. Probably because that is the highest gear that mopar manufactures. I'm definitely not even considering 4.10s.

If I'm going to do this I wanna do it right.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:55 PM   #18
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4:56 is what I've been told to go with...
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:00 PM   #19
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Did you install 4.56s?
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:21 PM   #20
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4.56 is good for a mall crawler, and an on-roader, but for rocks, mud, or sand, you want 4.88's. The speed and RPM difference isn't huge (2-300 RPM's on the highway), but the payoff off-road is. Either way, you won't be too badly off, but the extra (well, more quickly delivered ) torque of the 4.88's will also help in traffic at low speeds- Mark W.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:51 AM   #21
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Cool. Thanks very much for the info Mark. I appreciate it.

Looks like 4.88 is the way I'm going to go. Now to make some calls and get some price quotes.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:21 AM   #22
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No problem. I found gears and rebuild kits cheapest on 4ws.com Also, look into swapping in any lockers or LSD's you're thinking about during the re-gear, as you have the carrier out anyway- Mark W.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:26 AM   #23
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I was thinking of an Eaton e-locker. Any suggestions/recommendations on whether i could run one in just the front or rear or both?

Is the LSD running full time or is it selectable?
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:44 AM   #24
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LSD's are full-time. They provide great on-road traction for all weather conditions. The E-locker, and other selectable lockers, are open in normal use (except for the Auburn ECTED), and locked at the flick of a switch. They're completely transparent day-to-day, which is great for a daily driver, but offer no traction aid in bad weather (you do NOT want a locked axle in snow/heavy rain).
If your budget permits, lockers front and rear is great. There's a HUGE debate as to which to do, front or rear, if you can only do one. I run Auburn ECTED's in both ends, and I won't recommend them. The weak LSD when un-locked is nice out back, but when you combine them front and rear, you get some push, which is a headache. I plan to replace the front when I upgrade to a Dana 44 front with an E-locker or take-off Rubicon locker- Mark W.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:02 AM   #25
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I'm running a D30 in the front now and am thinking longer term that I want to upgrade so I'm leaning to only doing the gear swap up front and running the elocker in the rear to avoid buying hardware for the D30.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:18 PM   #26
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Just got some pricing in. For just the gear swap using factory bearings which are still like brand new I'm looking around $1700 installed. These are Yukon rings and pinions. From what I have read on this forum that seems like a reasonable price.

I'm having them look into lockers for the D44 as well.

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"Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. After that who cares?... He's a mile away and you've got his shoes!"
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