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Old 05-01-2013, 06:17 PM   #1
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Planning to install lift by myself....

Hello everybody....

I'm planning on installing the Teraflex 2.5" coil lift and shocks next Tuesday.

I'm still gathering all of the equipment and tools that I'll need.
I've been reading a lot about lift installs on here and elsewhere and have watched a few install vids on YouTube.

While I know it won't be easy, I feel I'm capable enough to go for it....though, a little nervous at the same time!!

In addition to the tools recommended by TF, anything additional I should have around?
Anything the instructions don't say that would be helpful to know?

Any words of wisdom for this first timer would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:22 PM   #2
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When doing the fronts most instructions say detach the brake line bracket from the frame. When I installed spacers on two '13's, disconnecting this bracket did nothing for helping extend the brake line. Instead, I had to detach a different brake line bracket that is located on the axle/hub area. It's a single 10mm bolt. This really threw me off and cost valuable time and it might be something different on 13's? I don't know.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:25 PM   #3
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Pneumatic tools will make you life easier on the install. There was a list of every tool needed for this install somewhere on the net. I made sure I had all of them before I started. Made life much easier.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legitposter View Post
When doing the fronts most instructions say detach the brake line bracket from the frame. When I installed spacers on two '13's, disconnecting this bracket did nothing for helping extend the brake line. Instead, I had to detach a different brake line bracket that is located on the axle/hub area. It's a single 10mm bolt. This really threw me off and cost valuable time and it might be something different on 13's? I don't know.
ok, good to know...maybe it is different for the 13's, I'll find out soon enough.

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Pneumatic tools will make you life easier on the install. There was a list of every tool needed for this install somewhere on the net. I made sure I had all of them before I started. Made life much easier.
Unfortunately I don't own or have access to pneumatic tools....
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legitposter View Post
When doing the fronts most instructions say detach the brake line bracket from the frame. When I installed spacers on two '13's, disconnecting this bracket did nothing for helping extend the brake line. Instead, I had to detach a different brake line bracket that is located on the axle/hub area. It's a single 10mm bolt. This really threw me off and cost valuable time and it might be something different on 13's? I don't know.
THIS! And make sure you put i back on BEFORE putting shocks back on!
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:43 PM   #6
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don't know if TF listed these items, but they are very helpful to have: breaker bar, 6 ton jack stands, a floor jack, a bottle or scissor jack, pb blaster.

Make sure to loosen all the control arm bolts and track bar bolts so they don't bind as you're installing the springs and do not retorque them until the jeep is back on level ground at ride height.

Also, pull the breather hose from the diff. in addition to the brake lines, it can get fairly taut when drooping the axle.

Don't forget to have fun
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:49 PM   #7
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ok, good to know...maybe it is different for the 13's, I'll find out soon enough.


Unfortunately I don't own or have access to pneumatic tools....
GO RENT an electric one from Autozone, etc. I beat the crap outta myself trying to get off certain bolts with the breaker bar. If I would of gotten the pneumatic tool (electric), done about 2 hours shorter than I did. It took me about 9 hours, over 2 different days (night shift workers have a hard time getting to bed and getting up early)
Find a friend too. Definitely would have been easier and less time. Especially trying to get the front coils on. Getting enough distance to get them in. I was sitting on the brake rotor and pushing it down, while trying to get the coil in. Not the safest thing to do!
With the front coils "twisting" them is is also helpful, using the spring as it's own expander. And don't forget to get the coils seated in their original position.
YES! FLOOR JACK!! Scissor jacks and hydraulic jack very time consuming!
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:07 PM   #8
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1. The 2013 suspension is the same as the 2007-2012 suspensions.

2. Do one axle at a time. Complete it, then move on to the next one.

3. Make sure you have the rear ABS lines unhooked from the frame before you drop the rear axle.

3. Disconnect the front drive shaft to allow the axle to drop far enough, it's only four bolts. But first, make an index mark on the front of the drive shaft where it attaches to the axle so you can put it back in the same place.

4. The front passenger top shock mount is a very tight fit. Some people have resorted to cutting the plastic from the battery box to make finger room. I used tape on an open end wrench to hold the nut in place, then threaded the shock up through the hole, the bushing, and finally into the nut. Turn the shock body, while holding the nut with the wrench taped to it until it is snug.

5. Recenter your steering wheel before you do a test drive.

6. Take your time and relax. If you do the rear axle first, and run out of time, you can drive it for a day or two with just the rear lifted. I had to do this on mine for a day. It looks funny, but it won't hurt anything. Don't forget to retighten the control arm bolts if you need to do this.


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Old 05-01-2013, 07:30 PM   #9
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I just installed a AEV 2.5 spring lift a couple weeks ago for the first time ever and it was a easy/fun job.

The instructions said to loosen all the bars which I did when doing the rear but decided to skip the step when doing the front and it worked out just fine.

It also said to remove the front drive line which I also skipped and it worked out just fine.

The nice thing about doing it yourself is you know everything gets re-tightened as your doing it and not being rushed by some boss.

BTW, when centering the steering wheel it only takes a 1/2 of turn on the drag link.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:34 PM   #10
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A spring compressor helps a lot. You can buy a set at Harbor Freight for $20 or rent one from Autozone.

Centering your steering wheel keeps the jeep from thinking hat you are in a skid. Otherwise, the jeep is traveling straight with the steering wheel off to one direction and the computer thinks its time to activate ESP.

If you have the adjustable track bar in your kit, be sure to center your front axle before you recenter your steering wheel or you will have to do it twice.

I needed to install the exhaust spacer kit with my Metalcloak 3.5 lift or the drive shaft would hit the exhaust crossover pipe, so order it ahead of time if neede be.

Measure your caster before your lift, with the jeep flat and level as a reference. I think you are aiming for 4 degrees, if I remember right. There is a whole write up about death wobble and caster on ProjectJK.com.....check it out
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:50 PM   #11
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How much knowledge of the oily bits do you need to have to install a lift? I'd love to do it myself as I find that doing stuff is a good way to learn things, but reading these threads concerns me. I couldn't tell a sway bar from a Klondike Bar if I put my head underneath a Jeep - are the instructions good enough to overcome my ignorance, or should I take on some slightly less complex projects first? I'm pretty handy, I just haven't ever worked underneath a vehicle before.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:56 PM   #12
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I had never worked on a vehicle before I got this jeep. I started with a spring swap, then shocks, and then started replacing control arms and track bars. Anywhere that the instructions lack, you can always jump on here and search or ask questions, that's what I did. You can do it!
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:48 PM   #13
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I did my lesser roughcountry 2.5" coil lift in about 4 hrs. It was my first lift and on my 13 JKUR. I had some trouble with geometry since it suggested disconnecting the upper control arms. After fighting for about 20 minutes I used a ratchet strap and a jack to get the front axle linned up.
On the rear I unhung the emergency brake lines in order to get a full droop. Took only an hour for the rear due to the simplicity vs the front.
I wish I had air tools but a good socket set and box wrenches worked fine. Also picked up a torque wrench at Sears on sale. A must have. As long as you are mechanically inclined then no worries.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:58 PM   #14
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where in NY are you?
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:59 PM   #15
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I already have a compressor, impact wrench and sockets etc, and I never pass up an opportunity to buy more tools. If you think that a mechanically inclined novice like me can do it, I'm going to trust you all. Just be prepared for lots of stupid questions.
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:08 PM   #16
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The only stupid questions are the ones that you don't ask and you end up getting yourself in a bind. Good luck. Its not that bad.
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:18 PM   #17
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Great advice above. I put on the same lift and it was pretty straight forward. The only tip I can add is the bump stop extenders on the front were a pain in the rear to get on. I tried doing it after I had the springs in. I would add them prior. I used simple green to lubricate the pieces. I also used a board and an extra jack to push them together. Oddly enough, this was the most frustrating part. Everything else went easy.

I would take a bunch of pictures prior so you can refer to them for orientation and to figure out how something goes if you get confused. You might want to take a measurement of bumper height prior so you can see actual lift height when you are done.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:23 AM   #18
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Don't worry about disconnecting the drive shaft or getting a coil spring compresser. Just get (if you don't already have) a small bottle jack and after a full droop set it between the axel and frame and jack it down further to remove and install springs.
If you don't have access to a compressor for air tools a 1/2 inch drive electric impact with metric sockets will speed things up. The main thing is to be careful and use jack stands for safety.
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:27 AM   #19
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this is a good time to replace as much stock hardware as possible.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/the...ts-128154.html
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:50 AM   #20
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Wow! Thanks everyone for all of this great advice/help!!

I will definitely be renting a pneumatic wrench....

Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaV8JK View Post
Don't worry about disconnecting the drive shaft or getting a coil spring compresser. Just get (if you don't already have) a small bottle jack and after a full droop set it between the axel and frame and jack it down further to remove and install springs.
If you don't have access to a compressor for air tools a 1/2 inch drive electric impact with metric sockets will speed things up. The main thing is to be careful and use jack stands for safety.
I'm not sure I understand the need for a bottle jack? Is this in addition to a floor jack? Or are you saying to use a bottle jack instead of a floor jack to support and lower the axle?
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where in NY are you?
Yonkers, but I'll be doing the install up in Rockland County...
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:55 AM   #21
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floor jacks are so much more useful.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by wrangler0 View Post
I'm not sure I understand the need for a bottle jack? Is this in addition to a floor jack? Or are you saying to use a bottle jack instead of a floor jack to support and lower the axle?
The bottle jack is used to create even more drop on the axle. You use it where you can to push the axle further down to get the springs in/out.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler0
Wow! Thanks everyone for all of this great advice/help!!

I will definitely be renting a pneumatic wrench....

I'm not sure I understand the need for a bottle jack? Is this in addition to a floor jack? Or are you saying to use a bottle jack instead of a floor jack to support and lower the axle?

Yonkers, but I'll be doing the install up in Rockland County...
I believe he means in addition to a floor jack. Hell, if you want, use two floor jacks. Having more than one is just helpful, gives you more flexibility.
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Old 05-02-2013, 05:58 AM   #24
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With no prior experience working on suspensions (or anything else), I did my leveling kit with Kurtz265. Took us 6 hours lol. We met Matador and did Kurtz's RK 2.5 and now know a decent thing about the JK suspension. Until I got my Jeep I never did any of my own service or maintenance and was always at the mercy of the mechanic. Having a few friends to help and learn from is a plus
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:47 AM   #25
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I'm always up for another mod day.

wrangler0, we are on Long Island, if your willing to drive out to us, we'll always be happy to help you out with the install.
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:21 AM   #26
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Ok, i have to ask, what does the 2.5 lift cost.. I want to put 31'' on, I saw a picture of a jeep with 31 and stock, it doesnt look like there is enough room for the tire? I went with 31 on my toy 4x4 with no issues.. now im thinking this will be very expensive to replace the tires lol
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:26 AM   #27
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The bottle jack is used to create even more drop on the axle. You use it where you can to push the axle further down to get the springs in/out.
Between the vehicle body and the axle?
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:10 AM   #28
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Ok, i have to ask, what does the 2.5 lift cost.. I want to put 31'' on, I saw a picture of a jeep with 31 and stock, it doesnt look like there is enough room for the tire? I went with 31 on my toy 4x4 with no issues.. now im thinking this will be very expensive to replace the tires lol
If you have a JK (2007-2013), they come with 255's which are equivalent to 32's. You can actually fit 33's under there without lifting, although you will rub at some points. Lifts vary in price depending on the quality and the components in that particular kit. For 2.5", you can spend anywhere from $400 up to $1700 on the kit.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:19 AM   #29
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Here are a couple of things I figured out.

1. If you take a hacksaw blade and cut into the factory front bump stop about 1/4 inch, it twists out a little easier.

2. Using a pair of floor jacks - one on the axle tube & one on the frame behind the LCA mount allows you to use the body weight to help compress the front coil.

3. The coil spring compressors I used were basically threaded rods with clamps on the end. If you unload the springs first - tire off, sway bar links out - so that they are uncompressed, the compressors fit between the coils easier. Then use the Jeeps weight (lower the rear floor jack) to compress the springs hand tightening the compressors as you slowly lower the body, you can get the coils out easier without turning and turning and turning the compressors when you let the Jeep's weight do it for you.

4. Obvious one until you do it: Put the bumpstops into the coil before you put the new spring on. Trust me you feel like a dumba$$ after decompressing the new spring & realize that the new stop wont go in.

5. The rear shock top mounts are A LOT easier to install with an impact wrench. Install the top 2 bolts first before you release the shock.

6. Go ahead and take off a bit of the plastic on the battery tray before trying to get the ex. nut off the right front shock. It's not worth trying to save.

7. When you disconnect the end links, push the sway bar all the way up so it's out of the way.

I did not disconnect my drive line or the breather tubes but I only did a 2" lift not 2.5 so you may have to do that. The breathers did max out during my install.

My sway bar disconnects had to be extended from 5" to about 7" for the reinstall.

It's a great feeling when you're done
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:27 AM   #30
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one more thing, disconnect both sides of your swaybar, not just one at a time. That should be obvious too but easy to miss.

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