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Old 07-19-2013, 01:34 PM
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Poison Spyder Diff Cover

Waiting for the paint to dry...
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:25 PM   #2
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Nice, you gonna clear coat it?

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Old 07-19-2013, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tlminh View Post
Nice, you gonna clear coat it?
Yes. I have to let the wrinkle paint cure all the way to hard, so the clear won't lift it. I figure about a week in the AZ sun should do it.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:47 PM   #4
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Nice , I just did mine

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Old 07-20-2013, 12:06 AM   #5
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Awesome cant wait to get mine in. Just hope they fit right with the rear trackbar :/
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:11 AM   #6
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Here is mine. I like the distinction in both of yours.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tab22092 View Post
Awesome cant wait to get mine in. Just hope they fit right with the rear trackbar :/
That's a wait and see for me too. It looks like in Jaker's picture he is using the stock rear track bar. One of the things I've noticed with that bar is the bend that goes around the diff is stamped flat on the top and bottom. When that was done it made a bump at the beginning of the bend on the inside, right where the clearance is the tightest. I plan on grinding that bump down. Not enough to weaken the bar but it should give it a little more space to pass over the spot on the drivers side where it is close.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:52 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Marc W View Post

That's a wait and see for me too. It looks like in Jaker's picture he is using the stock rear track bar. One of the things I've noticed with that bar is the bend that goes around the diff is stamped flat on the top and bottom. When that was done it made a bump at the beginning of the bend on the inside, right where the clearance is the tightest. I plan on grinding that bump down. Not enough to weaken the bar but it should give it a little more space to pass over the spot on the drivers side where it is close.
I was honestly giving this a thought as well. Dosent seem like enough to hurt the bar in any way
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:38 AM   #9
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great paint jobs.

I tried and didnt do so good. Then we hit them with sledge hammers.

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Old 07-20-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PieFace View Post
great paint jobs.

I tried and didnt do so good. Then we hit them with sledge hammers.


Saw that some time ago and it was a factor when deciding... As far as the fancy paint goes... I know there's not much point if your going to bang it on rocks (which is what it was built for). But... I'm putting it on the rear where the biggest problem is just simply dragging the diff over a rock will tweek the edge of the stock cover and brake the seal. Then of course all the oil drains out and you're screwed.
I'm not planning on backing into any bolders so maybe she'll look good for a while. With the stock muffler gone, the diff is visable from the rear so this should look good.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:53 AM   #11
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Here is mine. I like the distinction in both of yours.
Nice, I see the Hellbent guys did yours. How are the welds on the artec truss? Mine was meh . . .
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ak49 View Post
Here is mine. I like the distinction in both of yours.
Hey, mine look just like yours. Lol

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Old 07-26-2013, 01:57 PM
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Done!

With a little grinding on the track bar just to make sure, it looks like clearance won't be a problem.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:19 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Marc W View Post
With a little grinding on the track bar just to make sure, it looks like clearance won't be a problem.
Just got mine in! How much did you wind up grinding?
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:27 PM
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I'd be just guessing maybe 1/8" all the way around the inside of the bend, plus enough (a little more) to get rid of the bumps on the inside of stamped flat area. Where the bend starts and the stamped flat area begins on the driver side is where it's the tightest. If it's going to hit, it will be there. That's really the only spot that needs grinding but I didn't want to have just a spot ground out because that would weaken the bar at that point. It's smooth all the way around the inside of the bend now. After painting, you can't tell anything was done.
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Marc W View Post
I'd be just guessing maybe 1/8" all the way around the inside of the bend, plus enough (a little more) to get rid of the bumps on the inside of stamped flat area. Where the bend starts and the stamped flat area begins on the driver side is where it's the tightest. If it's going to hit, it will be there. That's really the only spot that needs grinding but I didn't want to have just a spot ground out because that would weaken the bar at that point. It's smooth all the way around the inside of the bend now. After painting, you can't tell anything was done.
I know its probably a huge pita bc its on now and tight but if you could maybe take some pics that would be huge. Like up close pics. And then ill post some pics of mine for a comparison so everyone can see
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:40 PM
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No... changing the cover and grinding the track bar was the huge pita. Taking pictures is the easy part.

The right side of the picture is the driver side. You can see how much was taken off by comparing the edge of the flat area on the inside compared to the outside. This should be more than enough room for the bar to move over the cover under all circumstances.
Note.... I do not have a lift. It's a stock '13 Rubicon
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:46 PM   #18
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Effin a that thing is close. Ok thank you so much. Its late here so i will take some pics when i go to throw them on hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:35 PM   #19
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Those are all so cool!!
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:53 PM   #20
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I still prefer the old style these ones are so blingy

Just kidding guys they look great. Don't worry though that paint job won't be pretty for long!
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:43 AM   #21
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Alright so here it is. Definitely beefy and definitely tight but it fits. Ive yet to flex it out but i will be doing that today to see if it rubs
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:31 PM   #22
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Man that's close!
I would definitely be pulling the springs and checking it at full bump if I were you.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:50 PM   #23
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Man that's close!
I would definitely be pulling the springs and checking it at full bump if I were you.
I tested it at full bump the ol' fashioned way lol bottomed it out and didnt seem to rub. So far so good. If it does rub its barely doing it. My next purchase is gonna be front and rear trackbars anyways so i should be alright till then. Also the perfect amount of diff fluid for this concurs with the pinky test. Rear dana 44 fill with 2.3 quarts, stick pinky all the way in, touches most of pinky nail. Front dana 30, 1.3 quarts. Touches most of pinky nail. Easy peezy. Only complaint is the amount of rtv they give you. Man its on the button lol
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:04 PM
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Did you grind on the bar Like I did or decide to try it without? I can't tell from the pics.

And you're right on the RTV. I laughed too. They couldn't have figured out that tube size any closer. If you get a little too liberal starting out, you'll be taking it back with your finger to finish
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:07 PM   #25
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Did you grind on the bar Like I did or decide to try it without? I can't tell from the pics.

And you're right on the RTV. I laughed too. They couldn't have figured out that tube size any closer. If you get a little too liberal starting out, you'll be taking it back with your finger to finish
I wound up not grinding it. And yea i couldnt really get a pic showing how close that bar actually is. Were talking paper tolerances here lol
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:34 PM   #26
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Just checking, what type of paint did y'all use on this? Trying to make sure i don't have to re-paint it too often, haha
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:32 PM   #27
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Did mine in dirt
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:41 PM   #28
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Just checking, what type of paint did y'all use on this? Trying to make sure i don't have to re-paint it too often, haha
I got a little crazy with mine, because I decided to match the paint to the factory Firecracker Red color code.

I went to the local Sherwin Williams Automotive, and had them mix a quart of automotive paint to the color code. Also got a pint of hardener.

The price was WAY more than I budgeted (I had no idea how expensive automotive paint was), but I figured at least I'll have plenty of leftover just in case I paint other parts.

I got my PS covers black powdercoated, and used a Dremel with a sanding disc to sand off the spider part, taped up the non-spider parts with blue painter's tape, and then applied three coats of the red paint about a day or two apart.

What I didn't count on was when I removed the tape, some of the red paint had seeped underneath the edges, so I went back and painted over the seepage with some black oil-based Rust-Oleum paint.

I think they turned out decent. I wish the sides of the spider were a little cleaner. I'm not sure how some other people got very straight even edges on theirs. They probably taped better than I did, or used a better tape that helped prevent the paint seeping. But I'm pleased with them. Once they're on, they're going to get beat and scratched up anyway.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:06 AM   #29
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Once they're on, they're going to get beat and scratched up anyway.
Then what was the point of painting them?
IMO nothing screams mall cruiser more than painted diff covers. Lol
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:40 PM   #30
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Thanks! I'll try that out!

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