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Old 06-27-2013, 10:28 AM   #1
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Talking Prep and Paint Bare Metal Bumper

I've got a Brawler Lite bumper sitting in my garage. I'm trying to find the best method for long lasting results on a budget. Ideally I will spend less than $100. I'm going to paint with some form of rattle can paint for easy touch-ups vs powder coating. Any tips, opinions, critiques, pictures, or good links are appreciated.

JCR has a good write-up. JcrOffroad, Inc.: Painting Tutorial

PREP - Seems like everyone says this is the most important part. This is what I'm planning on doing
  • Wipe the surface with a paper towels
  • Wash with Dishwasher soap, rinse...This is to remove all the wax and gunk so it's not sanded into the surface. There are "Wax and Grease Remover" product that would be the more professional way.
  • Maybe 303 non diluted sitting on there for about 5 minutes, rinse
  • Air Compressor dry it off
  • Drill with Wire Wheel attachment over the surface. This is for a slight etch for the paint to hold on to.
  • Acetone clean it off with an old t-shirt. I keep my worn out clothes as shop rags. I'm planning on using latex gloves to keep my hand oils off.
  • Maybe 300 grit sand and acetone clean it again.
  • Tack cloth dragged one direction, not rubbed.

PAINT
I'm planning on painting one side (rear) on an upside down metal trash can. Letting that dry and then flipping it over, light sanding, and painting the other (front side). I have seen people hang the bumper. I could possibly do that. It seems like where the hanger is, it would mask the paint and create an issue.
  • 1 wet coat of Rustoleum Self-Etch Primer (NOTE: All the paint will be spray can)
  • Sand the primer with 300 grit sand paper.Then tack cloth wipe the dust.
  • Standard auto primer over that
  • Sand the primer with 300 grit sand paper. Then tack cloth wipe the dust.
  • Light coat of Rustoleum Satin, Dry
  • Then about 3 Medium coats. I'm going to pass on the clear coat because it seems like it would be harder to touch up.

SUPPLIES
Spray Paint Trigger

Tack Cloth (helps take dust off)

Self Etching Primer

Automotive Spray Can Primer

Semi-Gloss/Satin Spray Paint. I like the look of bedliner, but it's harder to clean. I sprayed my grill and it's about like 100 grit sand paper.

Latex Gloves as much for keeping hand oils off, as for keeping clean

Drill Wire Wheel

Acetone

Sandpaper 300 grit


WHAT WOULD A PRO DO- Going through threads someone mentioned using DTM Primer (Direct to Metal). It's a 2 part mix option that's about $40, and not in rattle can. It seems like the professional painters are using epoxy. They also will use self-etching primer, but in a 2 part mix that is stronger. I may call around and see how much places want to just put a good primer coat on. I'm guessing it's going to mess with my $100 budget.

BEST TYPE OF SPRAY PAINT - It appears enamels are better than lacquers for automotive applications. I'm wondering if the "Professional" kind of Rustoleum is better than the standard kind. From a quick search it seems like maybe it just has more cutter in it to dry faster. Around here rustoleum is super easy to find. I would rather not get some weird brand that I will have to special order if I get a scratch down the road.

ACETONE VS MINERAL SPIRITS VS DENATURED ALCOHOL
All have been suggested as a last step before spraying. I'm likely splitting hairs here. I have read that mineral spirits can leave a bit of a residue after it drys. I also have read that Acetone needs to be cut with something to be sold, and that can leave a slight residue. I'm wondering if I should pick up some denatured alcohol that I haven't heard anything bad about it leaving a residue.

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Old 06-27-2013, 10:38 AM   #2
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Why not just take it to a powder coater?

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Old 06-27-2013, 12:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whetstone View Post
Why not just take it to a powder coater?
Cost is one reason, though my main concern is getting a scratch. With spray paint that's cheap and easy to touch up.

It seems like it was uphillbill who on one thread said he had rust form hidden under his powder coat job. It might have just been a bad application?

I have a good amount of free time, and like doing hands on stuff also.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #4
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If the bumper is steel, I would not wash it with soap and water. Rub it down with alcohol instead.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:37 PM   #5
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2 things....

1) Clearcoat is what protects the paint. Paint is thin and just scratches super easy. Skip it and you might as well just keep the primer on.

2) Powdercoating is just barely more expensive but will withstand the light scratches from tree limbs and whatnot that paint will not. Only rock scrapes will really do damage unless its a major tree limb that you are rubbing up against hard.

If you do powdercoating, you can touch it up with black paint or bed liner. Paint you have to blend it otherwise you will notice it with each patch job. Its a major pain in the butt to deal with paint... id honestly push you to skip this idea.

Also another... get it professionally bedlined with some good/thick bedliner.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyZ View Post
2 things....

1) Clearcoat is what protects the paint. Paint is thin and just scratches super easy. Skip it and you might as well just keep the primer on.

2) Powdercoating is just barely more expensive but will withstand the light scratches from tree limbs and whatnot that paint will not. Only rock scrapes will really do damage unless its a major tree limb that you are rubbing up against hard.

If you do powdercoating, you can touch it up with black paint or bed liner. Paint you have to blend it otherwise you will notice it with each patch job. Its a major pain in the butt to deal with paint... id honestly push you to skip this idea.

Also another... get it professionally bedlined with some good/thick bedliner.
Good to know. I'm looking more into powder coating now. Is there any questions I should ask the powdercoat guys. Based off my first call, it looks like I might be able to get it powder coated for around $100. I'm going to most likely talk to the guy tomorrow and see if they have a color that will match rustoleum semi-gloss black, or some other spray paint. His wife said they usually recommend model paint or a sharpie marker for touch-ups. I questioned the sharpiee being that it wouldn't stop rust. She said, "That's just what we recommend."
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster76 View Post

Good to know. I'm looking more into powder coating now. Is there any questions I should ask the powdercoat guys. Based off my first call, it looks like I might be able to get it powder coated for around $100. I'm going to most likely talk to the guy tomorrow and see if they have a color that will match rustoleum semi-gloss black, or some other spray paint. His wife said they usually recommend model paint or a sharpie marker for touch-ups. I questioned the sharpiee being that it wouldn't stop rust. She said, "That's just what we recommend."
If you are worried about scratching, line x should cost around the same as Powdercoating.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:26 PM   #8
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Talking I'm thinking of returning my spray paint

POWDER COAT PRIMER
I talked to a guy at "Indy Powder Coating." He said that if you add a zinc rich primer that it will add extra protection against rust. The way I understand it, it's a 2 powder coat application when you add the primer. It should prevent rust from spreading under the powder coat. That was without me mentioning I heard it was an issue. To add primer there is a 50% up-charge. His quote was $150 with primer and blasting without seeing the bumper.

If I powder coat it I will need to do a test fit of the bumper. I don't want to drill out any holes later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
If you are worried about scratching, line x should cost around the same as Powdercoating.
I think I would rather have it powder coated than Line-X. It's good stuff. I just would rather have a smoother finish.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:47 PM   #9
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I powder coated rear bumper with tire carrier...for $160.00 Looks relay nice...but...
I hit some rocks and had some chipping going on. The powder coating is hard surface that don't flex and crack...paint is more flexible...so I am going to paint my front bumper today.
Thinking to use rino liner... will post some pictures after I am done...

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