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Old 04-30-2014, 08:50 PM   #1
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Preparing for 37s?

I have been looking for a thread that could point me in the right direction in what i can do to prepare my jeep for a future 37 upgrade and i have yet to find it.

I have a 14 JKU, 2.5 RK max travel lift, 35 nittos, flat fenders (on the way), no regear, nothing special. I am wondering what can I do to prepare for 37s? i live in florida, so no crazy wheeling (Ocala would be the only wheeling i would do),but i do want to run 37s safely. This is also my daily driver that will see 17k+ miles a year. I would really appreciate the help and I'm sure many others are wondering the same question I am. Thanks!

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Old 04-30-2014, 10:57 PM   #2
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You can make the stock axles work but depends on the wheeling you're going to be doing. If you want to drive fast offroad and do some rock crawling, you're going to break/bend something in your axle or the axle itself. If Florida is really as flat as people say it is, then I think you would be fine with the stock axles. However, at the minimum, get some C gussets.

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Old 04-30-2014, 11:10 PM   #3
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I have been on 37's with stock axles for almost a year, it takes work to keep a jeep on 37's going.

balljoints are a must

I would highly suggest the full artec truss/LCA skid/gusset kit

brakes wont last very long

now I do wheel pretty dang hard and it has held together but I do feel a bit of the wear and tear on it has come from rough poorly maintained city streets.
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Old 05-01-2014, 04:25 AM   #4
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I have almost the same set up and going to 37's as soon as the tires come in, Nitto Trail Grapplers.

I am not doing anything to the front 30, if it breaks I'll do something else or replace it with a 30 for a few bucks. They are all over the place.

I just installed flat fenders and it gave a bunch of clearance. Enough, don't know till my tires are on.

Just ordered adjustable bump stops form NorthRidge, MetalCloak, and will be installing them.

I don't do rocks, just trails, hills, some mud, and water.

I really don't see a problem with the 30, but we shall see.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:26 AM   #5
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You can make the stock axles work but depends on the wheeling you're going to be doing. If you want to drive fast offroad and do some rock crawling, you're going to break/bend something in your axle or the axle itself. If Florida is really as flat as people say it is, then I think you would be fine with the stock axles. However, at the minimum, get some C gussets.
Basically i would be doing light to moderate wheeling nothing major. I don't want to have to worry about something braking or bending so i could start saving up for axles. However, i have read that in my situation i really don't need to upgrade the front axles, only the back. is that true?

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I have been on 37's with stock axles for almost a year, it takes work to keep a jeep on 37's going.

balljoints are a must

I would highly suggest the full artec truss/LCA skid/gusset kit

brakes wont last very long

now I do wheel pretty dang hard and it has held together but I do feel a bit of the wear and tear on it has come from rough poorly maintained city streets.
what would you do more to make yours ideal for daily driving? sound like you want to upgrade some more as well

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Originally Posted by PapasJP View Post
I have almost the same set up and going to 37's as soon as the tires come in, Nitto Trail Grapplers.

I am not doing anything to the front 30, if it breaks I'll do something else or replace it with a 30 for a few bucks. They are all over the place.

I just installed flat fenders and it gave a bunch of clearance. Enough, don't know till my tires are on.

Just ordered adjustable bump stops form NorthRidge, MetalCloak, and will be installing them.

I don't do rocks, just trails, hills, some mud, and water.

I really don't see a problem with the 30, but we shall see.
I also have the trail grapplers. another questions should i maybe upgrade to a 3.5 lift?

i will have "saving" time before I go with the 37s i just want to slowly upgrade so when i do I'm already partly done with the process. I also do it right< i don't want to be driving down the highway and something brakes or always have it in the back of my mind something can brake. If i absolutely need and axle i will save. I have time and low expenses my only obstacle is the girlfriend haha
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:00 AM   #6
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However, i have read that in my situation i really don't need to upgrade the front axles, only the back. is that true?
the front D30 is your weak link. the rear D44 is pretty stout as is. to run 37s and have it last even on the street id recommend regearing (unless your running 4.10s which you can get by with), and at least c gussets as mentioned before. Rustys makes a really nice simple D30 truss/gusset kit for under $70 that gives you some added rigidity where its needed most. if you look into wheeling it harder down the road look into sleeves, moly axles (especially if your gonna lock the front.)
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:07 AM   #7
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:29 AM   #8
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truss, gussets, ball joints, upgrade steering, Heavy duty tie rod/ drag link/ trac bar.
Learning the hard way what DDing/weekend wheeling trips on 37's do to your jeep.
I've replaced every TRE in the front, unit bearings, brakes and it's a pain in the a** sometimes, but I wouldn't change it for nothing haha.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:24 AM   #9
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the front D30 is your weak link. the rear D44 is pretty stout as is. to run 37s and have it last even on the street id recommend regearing (unless your running 4.10s which you can get by with), and at least c gussets as mentioned before. Rustys makes a really nice simple D30 truss/gusset kit for under $70 that gives you some added rigidity where its needed most. if you look into wheeling it harder down the road look into sleeves, moly axles (especially if your gonna lock the front.)
Yeah, looks like I'm going to have to regear. What would be ideal to gear to? Also any drive shaft issues when going to 37s?
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:25 AM   #10
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truss, gussets, ball joints, upgrade steering, Heavy duty tie rod/ drag link/ trac bar. Learning the hard way what DDing/weekend wheeling trips on 37's do to your jeep. I've replaced every TRE in the front, unit bearings, brakes and it's a pain in the a** sometimes, but I wouldn't change it for nothing haha.
You gotta do it right haha. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:45 AM   #11
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You gotta do it right haha. Thanks for the info.
no prob if you're looking at gears here is this chart that's always floating around
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:36 AM   #12
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no prob if you're looking at gears here is this chart that's always floating around
I'm guessing if you have the new 3.6 it would be different?
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:09 AM   #13
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I'm guessing if you have the new 3.6 it would be different?
I have 4.10 gears on 3.6 with 37's - not a problem at all. 4.56 or 4.88 are probably the best on the 3.6 and 37's, but I am really happy with the 4.10 gears for now.

Edit - Oh and by the way, my 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers are only 4 lbs heavier per tire than your 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:18 AM   #14
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I'm guessing if you have the new 3.6 it would be different?
yea, I put the wrong one up. Thought it had the 3.6 in there
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:42 AM   #15
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what would you do more to make yours ideal for daily driving? sound like you want to upgrade some more as well
well I have this going on in my garage


but on a 30 I would do balljoints, 4.88's, truss, flipped drag link, gussets, synergy tie rod, control arms with heims at both ends, trackbar with heims at both ends.

and pray that the steering box lasts
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:19 PM   #16
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If it were me, I would try to pick up a used Dana 44 for the front. You can probably get it pretty cheap from a used JK, someones take off or from a scrap yard. Then I would C gusset and get 4.88 or 5.13 gears.

Why throw all that money into the Dana 30 when you can save some more for Dana 44?
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:23 PM   #17
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You gotta do it right haha. Thanks for the info.
Keep an eye on your drive shaft and your drive shaft boots. If you see it spitting oil than you need to get a new drive shaft. I would recommend saving for 1350 JE Reel drive shafts.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:37 PM   #18
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This is a comparison of the D30 vs D44 ring and pinion.

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Old 05-01-2014, 08:41 PM   #19
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If it were me, I would try to pick up a used Dana 44 for the front. You can probably get it pretty cheap from a used JK, someones take off or from a scrap yard. Then I would C gusset and get 4.88 or 5.13 gears. Why throw all that money into the Dana 30 when you can save some more for Dana 44?
That's what I'm leaning towards. I just don't want future problems. How much do used 44s go for? Also just rehearing and a gusset will be enough?

Should I also upgrade to a 3.5 lift rather than my 2.5 RK lift
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:42 PM   #20
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And hydro assist
Add currie axle joints with the truss. What a difference they made handling wise. Totally unexpected.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:53 PM   #21
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That's what I'm leaning towards. I just don't want future problems. How much do used 44s go for? Also just rehearing and a gusset will be enough?

Should I also upgrade to a 3.5 lift rather than my 2.5 RK lift
I honestly don't know about the price. I have a Rubi and I'm not looking to upgrade axles until much later down the road.

I'm not going to guarantee anything but as long you don't do serious rock crawling or try speeding through some whoops you should be fine. From what I've seen, I don't think a truss is necessary as it's not a fix. It's a bandaid that might fall off at anytime.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:55 PM   #22
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It's a bandaid that might fall off at anytime.
Huh?
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:03 PM   #23
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I personally wouldn't throw any more money into a D44. My plans are to go to a ProRock 60 Front and ProRock 80 rear if and when my axles fail. BTW I'm planning on a LS swap a few years from now.

Watch from 39:45 of this video

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Old 05-01-2014, 09:07 PM   #24
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I'm just saying, if you're looking for a solution than a ProRock 60 should be in your future. But with the OP's wheeling, I think he can stick with a D44.

BTW, this is all contingent on OP wanting 37" tires.
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:08 AM   #25
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I've seen, I don't think a truss is necessary as it's not a fix. It's a bandaid that might fall off at anytime.
I think you need to find a new welder.

Ill be honest, I have done some seriously stupid things on a dana 30 and 37's. we run an obstacle course every year, I saw a stock rubicon blow up all 4 tires (and finish the run), my dana 30 held together. am I pushing it way past its limits? heck yes
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:55 AM   #26
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yea I have never heard of a truss falling off?
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:09 AM   #27
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I think you need to find a new welder. Ill be honest, I have done some seriously stupid things on a dana 30 and 37's. we run an obstacle course every year, I saw a stock rubicon blow up all 4 tires (and finish the run), my dana 30 held together. am I pushing it way past its limits? heck yes
So you run 37s on a Dana 30? What's your setup? Because if I don't HAVE TO get a Dana 44 then I won't. I rarely do any off roading and if I am it will be twice a year at best. I just don't have many options in south Florida
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:36 AM   #28
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yea I have never heard of a truss falling off?
It was a metaphor. I hope a welded on truss wouldn't fall off.

You run the chance of bending your axle while installing a truss. Like i said before, its not THE solution. I just don't see the benefit of doing a truss, especially on a D30

To each their own though.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:17 AM   #29
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I thought you seen it first hand or something, just wondering
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:20 AM   #30
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I have 37's on a D30 with stock gears. No indy car, that's for sure! Regearing ASAP but it is very driveable as is. I have done some mild to medium offroad, but did destroy ball joints and have fully upgraded to Synergy steering since. If you're asking if you can drive down the road this way...yep. I used to live in FL and am very aware of what you can find offroad and deep mud will stop you with stock gearing.

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