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Old 06-25-2012, 12:58 AM   #1
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Pro comp 4" lift thoughts

Hey everyone. I don't have much money for a money dump, so I'm going kinda cheap on the lift. I have a 2010 2 door JK and was looking at this lift: Pro Comp Suspension Part K3089B - 4" Stage I Lift Kit with ES9000 Shocks

I've heard the term "to install costs about as much as the lift", but has anyone bought, and had the lift professionally installed? I know a guy who could install, but I'd like to know how much it is professionally. Also, any other opinions would help! Thanks!

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Old 06-25-2012, 01:05 AM   #2
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We had a stage two installed in our TJ and we LOVE it. We had it professionally installed and the total was somewhere between 1500-2000! No problems with it and 33s fit with no problem.

The ride is nearly as good as stock.

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Old 06-25-2012, 01:08 AM   #3
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Do NOT cheap on your lift. Think about it. It's your s u s p e n s i o n - you know... the bones that support the body... You'll be forever sorry down the road... Do it right. Do it once. And if you want it professionally installed - buy the lift from the installer. Otherwise he won't warranty it.
Lots of other things to go on the cheap with - just not your lift.
Pro Comp - no personal experience here - just lots of not so good reviews....

btw - my ride with a Full Traction lift is WAY better than stock...
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:30 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by cg3
do not cheap on your lift. Think about it. It's your s u s p e n s i o n - you know... The bones that support the body... You'll be forever sorry down the road... Do it right. Do it once. And if you want it professionally installed - buy the lift from the installer. Otherwise he won't warranty it.
Lots of other things to go on the cheap with - just not your lift.
Pro comp - no personal experience here - just lots of not so good reviews....

Btw - my ride with a full traction lift is way better than stock...
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:53 AM   #5
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I have a pro comp lift on my suburban, I don't like it. It is poor quality (had it maybe 4 years, springs and shocks are rusted beyond recognition.
The ride is extremely stiff. (paid $1200). I second what the other guy and gal said, this is one place not to be cheap. Keep it stock until you can afford the right lift.
You can learn a lot from reading the posts here, or even better, join a group, go wheeling with them. Best way to get a lift and be satisfied with it. Don't make the same mistake I did, (buy a lift based on price).
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:02 AM   #6
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First off, if you go up 4”, you are gong to have to put a new front driveshaft on before too long, and in my opinion, you should do it from the start.

In late December, I had a 4” PC Stage-II installed on my 10-day old Jeep along with a Rancho Steering Stabilizer.

Unless the Stage-I lift is counter-intuitively better than the Sage-II lift, I definitely would not do it.

I did not realize how bad the lift was until I finished swapping out most of its components.

When I first bought my JKUR stock, I loved the way it rode on the stock suspension. I was pretty disappointed in the way the PCS2 lift rode after it was installed. I didn’t really understand the suspension or its geometry back then. I heard that some lifts are better than others, but didn’t really understand why. And “better” is pretty subjective, so I wasn’t really certain whether upgrading my lift components was worth the cost. It was. In spades.

With the PCS2 lift, the best my installers (who are very good) could get the caster was about 2 degrees. When driving over any bump on the highway I would bob-and-weave all over the place. I had to fight the vehicle to keep it on course. Interestingly, the traction control thingy would activate often when I would go over a bump or around a ramp at 50+mph.

Then, I started swapping out suspension parts.

I started out installing:

J.E. Reel 1350 Front DS (not really for suspension purposes, but just because it was needed for other reasons);
Synergy Suspension Adjustable Front Track Bar; and
Synergy Suspension F911 Hardware Kit.

This made it somewhat better. But, based on some advice and my own logic, when I was having skids and other stuff put on, I had the following installed:

Synergy Suspension Front Track Bar Bracket.

This, in isolation, did not help (but probably does help in combination with the subsequent mods).

Then, I went all in, and installed the following:

Synergy Suspension Chromoly Tie Rod;
Synergy Suspension High Steer Drag Link (flipped); and
Synergy Suspension Adjustable Front Lower Control Arms.

The guys at High Tech installed that stuff and realigned the Jeep, getting the caster at about 5.25 degrees.

Unbelievable! It does drive better than stock now. It just glides over bumps at highway speeds, and my TC has not ever again gone off at highway speeds (in four months). It drives like a Lincoln Town Car. I’m not kidding. It even handles much more fluidly (better) at slow speeds, including when making sharp turns.

As far as suspension goes, at the same time, I also added Synergy Suspension Heavy Duty Front Ball Joints (for efficiency’s sake because I had my axle apart when intalling axle sleeves and c-gusset braces), but I don’t think changed the handling, but just added to the durability.

Just to finish things out, I more recently added:

Synergy Suspension Adjustable High Clearance Rear Lower Control Arms;
Synergy Suspension Adjustable Rear Track Bar; and
Synergy Suspension Rear Track Bar Brace.

I did this just because the Synergy suspension components are adjustable (without even removing them), so that I can get new springs/spacers when I go to 37” tires and adjust EVERYTHING to make it work correctly. Those components didn’t really effect the way it drove before (i.e., perfect).

As of now, I think only the following components are remaining from my PC lift: shocks; springs; bump-stops; and upper control arms (front and back).

I wish I would have just bought a Synergy lift from the beginning. I would have saved a lot of money. I know there are others that are similarly-good as the Synergy stuff (though I don’t know how many lifts have components that are adjustable without removing them), and I don’t know what’s the best deal out there. But I would recommend getting something good. If you get a cheap 4” lift, you will regret it and then either live with driving something that feels like driving a 1948 Willys Jeep or end up spending a bunch more money.

And I'm not even really upset with PC. I bought a cheap lift. I should have known better.

Note, based on JeepinDad’s comments, the PC lifts may be better on the TJs, since they have a different suspension. I don’t know.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:48 AM   #7
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Holy hell that's a huge reply, no PC for me ! So. . . I'm assuming synergy is an ok brand? I know going cheap is bad, but from what I've read, PC is trash, even for mall bogging.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:55 AM   #8
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What about teraflex, rancho and rugged ridge? Excluding long arm/short arm kits (I can live without the arms for a little), what is a good lift within a $1500 range?, that includes just about everything (brake lines, and stuff)
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:23 AM   #9
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Let me reiterate on my previous questions, with some additions: what parts do i need in a lift kit, besides the springs, shocks, sway bars and brake lines, and what items are recommended, but not necessary to operate the vehicle without flipping it? i.e. are long arms really necessary to operate it, or no? I don't plan on going on limit-pushing offroad trails, but I do plan on taking it out for a spin. I'm really in the dark about these things, and there's a whole lot on the internet, with tons of mixed opinions. I talked to the guy at the dealership once, and, after what I've been through with them, I wouldn't trust him if he said my tires are round.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:36 AM   #10
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Let me reiterate on my previous questions, with some additions: what parts do i need in a lift kit, besides the springs, shocks, sway bars and brake lines, and what items are recommended, but not necessary to operate the vehicle without flipping it? i.e. are long arms really necessary to operate it, or no? I don't plan on going on limit-pushing offroad trails, but I do plan on taking it out for a spin. I'm really in the dark about these things, and there's a whole lot on the internet, with tons of mixed opinions. I talked to the guy at the dealership once, and, after what I've been through with them, I wouldn't trust him if he said my tires are round.
If your not planing on going on intense limit pushing trails why are you wanting a 4" lift??. just asking as if you just do a 2-2.5" lift it will suit a everyday compfy ride plus some Clarence for trails more then enough for most off road fun with mates and camping ect . Just put on some rock rails ,after market under protection and a snorkel and your set
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armin View Post
What about teraflex, rancho and rugged ridge? Excluding long arm/short arm kits (I can live without the arms for a little), what is a good lift within a $1500 range?, that includes just about everything (brake lines, and stuff)
Full Traction 3" Premium Lift Kits for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door

Rock Krawler Max Travel 2.5" System for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK

Both are quality kits for around that price. Both give you about the same in the kit. You will need to buy shocks with either one.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:05 AM   #12
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If your not planing on going on intense limit pushing trails why are you wanting a 4" lift??. just asking as if you just do a 2-2.5" lift it will suit a everyday compfy ride plus some Clarence for trails more then enough for most off road fun with mates and camping ect . Just put on some rock rails ,after market under protection and a snorkel and your set
I agree with IronPat. I know of no way I would want to lift my Jeep 4" that costs less than about $4K (+ labor, if you can't do it yourself). This includes a good aftermarket driveshaft, but that is a relatively-small component of the cost, which includes adjustable LCAs, UCAs, trackbars, and drag link, and a steering stabilizer. There may be quality kits that have all that (including front DS) for less than $4K, but I'm not aware of which one.

Regardless of the specific price, it's going to be many $thousands in parts unless you inadvisably cut corners somewhere (which is what I did for about a few weeks until I realized that it was unacceptable). In any event, there just is not any way to lift a JK 4" without messing up all of the geometry (and thus handling) unless you spend a lot, and that's if you don't need to pay someone else to install it properly and align the thing, in which case, it will cost a brobdingnagian amount. That's just the way it is I think.

Apparentlly, you can up up-to 2.5" for a whole lot less because you do not need to replace nearly as many components with longer or adjustable components (just going off what I read here). I personally got the adjustable components on my lift because I now can change my lift height/tire size by just swapping out the springs and readjusting the suspension components and keepinig ideal caster angle, etc... So, I can lift mine another 1" or2", allign everything, and throw 37s on when I wear out my 35s. Or I can stay with 4"

If you want to go up 4" eventually, but can't afford it all at once, I have no experience with this, but I think you could go up 2.5" and then, incrementally, start adding stuff like this (Synergy Suspension*::*Jeep JK*::*Control Arms (Standard & Long Arm)) and this (J. E. Reel : Front 1350 C.V. Heavy Duty Drive Line - Jeep Wrangler JK 2007) over time. When you have the right components on, you can, I think, just swap the springs out, readjust everything, and go up to 4" or even 6". If so, the adjustable components probably would allow you to moderately improve the allignment potential even with the 2.5" lift (but I have no experience with that).

However, if you don't want to spend a lot of money now or ever on this, and don't want to run 37s or 35s while doing some fairly-serious sway-bar-disconnected wheeling, you're probably wasting your money and time even thinking about a 4" lift.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:58 PM   #13
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The place i go to, I'd need a 4 inch lift . I guess I could go progressive!
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:38 PM   #14
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What about;
Rancho Part R1320R9B - 4 inch Lift Kit with Shocks
I've seen good reviews for it? Ill get a drive shaft right when i get it, and I could buy short arms later? Otherwise, I'll probably get something that i can upgrade later on, like the synergy 3 inch or the full traction.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armin
What about;
Rancho Part R1320R9B - 4 inch Lift Kit with Shocks
I've seen good reviews for it? Ill get a drive shaft right when i get it, and I could buy short arms later? Otherwise, I'll probably get something that i can upgrade later on, like the synergy 3 inch or the full traction.
No way.

If you are set on 3-4" do a lift with atleast front lowers and rear uppers to correct pinion angles. Can do the driveshafts now or later. Check out Adams driveshafts
Also front and rear adj track bars to center the axles.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:00 PM   #16
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Why are you dead set on a high lift? I know your Jeep and everything but you can rock crawl with an OME 2” lift. The arms aren’t there as a bonus, at a certain height you NEED control arms and 3-4” is around the height you NEED them. Also 3.5-4” you SHOULD address the drive shafts. There is no “cheaping out” on a 4” lift.

You can always do this:

Rock Krawler 2.5” Max Travel. Same lift as their 3.5” mid flex BUT with 2.5” coils instead of 3.5”. Comes with arms and you don’t need to address the drive shafts right away. Then save your pennies for drive shafts, the other arms and get the 3.5” coils at a later time. This way the only thing you will be buying twice is the springs, which face it a lot of us do that anyway.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=339

Essentially the same kit with different coil height.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=117

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Old 06-26-2012, 03:05 PM   #17
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:48 AM   #18
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I like the 3.5 rock krawler, I think that's what I'll go with. Thanks everyone! Dan, did you cut your own flares?
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:01 AM   #19
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What they all said, don't cheap out on the lift. You get what you pay for!

I have the RK 2.5" max travel and LOVE it! I have 33's now, but like that when I move up to 35" or 37", I can just swap out the springs and add whatever else is needed as opposed to tossing it all and going with a different lift.

Also keep in mind that when you say you need 4", many will give you more in the front to level out. So with my 2.5" lift, I ended up with 4" front, 2" rear.
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:22 AM   #20
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Yeah i really like that they include control arms, for a fair price, all i need is 4 shocks. How will i know though, what shocks i need, if the lift will end up being like that? I guess i'll call them?
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:27 AM   #21
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Yeah i really like that they include control arms, for a fair price, all i need is 4 shocks. How will i know though, what shocks i need, if the lift will end up being like that? I guess i'll call them?
Most lift manufacturers will suggest which shocks you should get. If you look at the RK lifts linked above, at the bottom they mention specific model numbers for a variety of shocks.

I went with the Bilsteins and love them on and off road.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:32 AM   #22
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Yeah, i plan on getting the Bilsteins, but the SKUs dont match, and if what you said is right, the lift will not be 3.5" on both sides. Should i get front and rear shocks that are both 3.5"? or just call them?
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:34 AM   #23
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I like the 3.5 rock krawler, I think that's what I'll go with. Thanks everyone! Dan, did you cut your own flares?
Yes I did cut them myself

Quote:
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Yeah, i plan on getting the Bilsteins, but the SKUs dont match, and if what you said is right, the lift will not be 3.5" on both sides. Should i get front and rear shocks that are both 3.5"? or just call them?
Call them, they will answer any questions you have or call one of the vendors here that sells RK stuff like Jason @ Krawl Off-Road.

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Old 06-27-2012, 09:37 AM   #24
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Yeah i really like that they include control arms, for a fair price, all i need is 4 shocks. How will i know though, what shocks i need, if the lift will end up being like that? I guess i'll call them?
and bumpstops!
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:14 AM   #25
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Thanks everyone, glad you saved me from the nightmare that is pro comp!
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:43 PM   #26
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Thanks everyone, glad you saved me from the nightmare that is pro comp!
Just to clarify, at least from my perspective, ProComp makes great tires (from experience) and wheels (I hear). I just think they shouldn't be seling a cheap lift with cheap control arms.

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