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Old 04-23-2012, 11:30 AM   #1
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Problems with 35 inch tires?

I could not find a thread specifically devoted to the subject of problems encountered AFTER one has put 35's on their JK's; though there are problems listed within MANY other threads. I hope this thread doesn't upset the "redundancy police". (kidding, truly!!!)

The obvious problems are fenders rubbing, possible need to re-gear, backspacing needing to be changed, ball joints prematurely failing.

What am I missing? What other problems have you experienced, or heard about, when going to 35's on the JK? Are any other components wearing abnormally, or are there any other "rubs" that need correcting?

Thanks. And Cheers!!!

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Old 04-23-2012, 12:57 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Renaissance_Redneck View Post
I could not find a thread specifically devoted to the subject of problems encountered AFTER one has put 35's on their JK's; though there are problems listed within MANY other threads. I hope this thread doesn't upset the "redundancy police". (kidding, truly!!!)

The obvious problems are fenders rubbing, possible need to re-gear, backspacing needing to be changed, ball joints prematurely failing.

What am I missing? What other problems have you experienced, or heard about, when going to 35's on the JK? Are any other components wearing abnormally, or are there any other "rubs" that need correcting?

Thanks. And Cheers!!!
This is what I'd be concerned with:

1. Rubbing...fixed by a lift, proper wheel backspacing, flat fenders, etc.

2. Gearing...comprises multiple threads in itself, and is largely subjective. My opinion in a nutshell: If you've got 4.10 gears in a '12, you're fine. Any other combo will need to regear (and even the '12 with 4.10's, if you feel you're underpowered).

3. D30 front axle...my feeling is, if you wheel your Jeep hard, you'll want either a sleeve/gusset kit or a HD chromoly axle to keep from bending the D30 while running heavy 35" tires.

4. Mileage...a lightweight tire/wheel combo will help. Regearing will help, if done right.

5. Ball joints...the stock ball joints aren't great. My plan is to run em till they're toast, then swap in some synergy ball joints.

6. Spare tire carrier...more subjectivity. I just bought the new TF HD hinged tire carrier for my 35's. That said, in the next few minutes someone will post that they've been lugging a 37 on their stock tinfoil carrier for the last 42 years, and the carrier is now actually STRONGER than it was on day one.

C'est la vie.

And, if you don't already have wheels with backspacing of 4.5" or less, you'll need them to run the wider versions of 33" and 35" tires.

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Old 04-23-2012, 03:36 PM   #3
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This is what I'd be concerned with:

1. Rubbing...fixed by a lift, proper wheel backspacing, flat fenders, etc.

2. Gearing...comprises multiple threads in itself, and is largely subjective. My opinion in a nutshell: If you've got 4.10 gears in a '12, you're fine. Any other combo will need to regear (and even the '12 with 4.10's, if you feel you're underpowered).

3. D30 front axle...my feeling is, if you wheel your Jeep hard, you'll want either a sleeve/gusset kit or a HD chromoly axle to keep from bending the D30 while running heavy 35" tires.

4. Mileage...a lightweight tire/wheel combo will help. Regearing will help, if done right.

5. Ball joints...the stock ball joints aren't great. My plan is to run em till they're toast, then swap in some synergy ball joints.

6. Spare tire carrier...more subjectivity. I just bought the new TF HD hinged tire carrier for my 35's. That said, in the next few minutes someone will post that they've been lugging a 37 on their stock tinfoil carrier for the last 42 years, and the carrier is now actually STRONGER than it was on day one.

C'est la vie.

And, if you don't already have wheels with backspacing of 4.5" or less, you'll need them to run the wider versions of 33" and 35" tires.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
This is what I'd be concerned with:

1. Rubbing...fixed by a lift, proper wheel backspacing, flat fenders, etc.

2. Gearing...comprises multiple threads in itself, and is largely subjective. My opinion in a nutshell: If you've got 4.10 gears in a '12, you're fine. Any other combo will need to regear (and even the '12 with 4.10's, if you feel you're underpowered).

3. D30 front axle...my feeling is, if you wheel your Jeep hard, you'll want either a sleeve/gusset kit or a HD chromoly axle to keep from bending the D30 while running heavy 35" tires.

4. Mileage...a lightweight tire/wheel combo will help. Regearing will help, if done right.

5. Ball joints...the stock ball joints aren't great. My plan is to run em till they're toast, then swap in some synergy ball joints.

6. Spare tire carrier...more subjectivity. I just bought the new TF HD hinged tire carrier for my 35's. That said, in the next few minutes someone will post that they've been lugging a 37 on their stock tinfoil carrier for the last 42 years, and the carrier is now actually STRONGER than it was on day one.

C'est la vie.

And, if you don't already have wheels with backspacing of 4.5" or less, you'll need them to run the wider versions of 33" and 35" tires.
OP has a Rubi - i.e., D44.

I agree with most of what KBW says. I would lift it. How high is an endless debate specific to your personal needs and wants. Mine is for wheeling fairly hard even though it is my DD. So, for me, 4" lift with 35s, reinforced axle housing, tons of skids, etc ... For others something different is probably better.

My one minority view held by few others is that the gearing/regearing issue to me (as far as the '12 3.6L) is way overblown. It's just my opinion. But my 3.6L/35"/3.73 combo has more accelleration than I need on the road (and it easily downshifts on the highway for lower gearing). And I really don't want lower gears for that. For my own personal tastes, it would be geared too low with anything lower than 4.10s (like 4.56s on down). I've offroaded mine modrerately in 4WL, and there's no way I would benefit from lower gears for doing difficult (not extreme) stuff, like I will be doing beginning this weekend. To need lower gears for off-roading (even if that's possible), I would have to turn my rig into some crazy non-street-legal roll-caged monster, and I'm not going to do that.

I would lift it and I think you'll love the 35s (only if you lift it correctly), and not even think about gears until you drive it afterward (super-especially if you have 4.10s).
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:59 PM   #5
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Hey MarineHawk.

How does yours handle as a DD..Eg like Body role into corners on the highway and steering sway, any problems you had once you lifted it with 35s that you can think of.

I have the JKUR 4.10 Auto On order, im looking at TF 2.5 lift coil bilstien shocks.
I like the 33s on 16s but Iam really like the 35s just want to know all the info i can get my hands on before i purchase. with 35s compared to 33s i no the MPG will suffer and ill need a new tire carrier...some say ill be fine with the stock carrier.

Is there any real problem or more money ill have to sink into the jeep to run 35s vs 33s

Thx
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:09 PM   #6
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MH... Do you have an auto or manual?
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:33 PM   #7
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1. Trimming your pinch seam:

It's a good idea with 35s if you find yourself disconnecting your sway bar links. Under extreme articulation and low tire psi you will get rub-a-dub.

2. Adding a tranny auxiliary cooler pre 12'

Self explanatory
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MarineHawk View Post
OP has a Rubi - i.e., D44.


I know. Figured other peeps might read this, though...
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:15 PM   #9
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I would not call it problems when going to 35's. I would call it things that need to change. My jeep is a JKUR 2011
Ball joints: As said before the stock ones are not that good
Rubbing: There are plenty of people here who think a 2.5" lift is plenty for 35's
Me, I think it's to low, and does not look right, maybe a 3''-4'' But that's just me. Like MH I'm running a 4''
Back spacing: You can use the stock wheels with spacer or other wheels with a 3.75 back spacing.
Gearing: Down here in Florida, ( flat ) 4:10 & 35's is ok. I can down shift when I need to pass. Up in Cal. you might want to re-gear.
The pinch seem is a thing to do. Also and if nothing more some c- gussets on the front.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:25 PM   #10
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we got a troll!!!!!
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:20 PM   #11
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we got a troll!!!!!
Indeed. That guy just needed more attention from his Mommy.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:58 PM   #12
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I just picked up my 35's from the store today actually so the pics i took for my deployed hubby might be useful for you. Didn't plan on this use for em, but since you have a Rubi like me, nothing better than a visual. These are 35x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZ's. Those are the stock BFG MT's installed that the Rubi comes with.

As you can see, while I think it might be POSSIBLE to make em fit, I'm not even gonna try it till the lift comes in. And yes I am going down to a 15" wheel too. Talked to plenty of people that have done the same, and especially considering I hardly ever see mud around here, I seriously doubt I have any kind of packing issues on these dry trails. I also noticed on the back I might need to trim the Rock slider to avoid rubbing issues once I installed. It sticks out a bit but it's close enough I can't tell for sure yet if that's going to be necessary. Guess I'll see when I put em on.

And I keep seeing people recommend the flat style fender flares. I had Bushwacker Pocket flares on my old TJ, but I only ran 33's so rubbing was a non issue. Are you guys saying the flat style one is better if you run a 35 for rubbing issues? I'd hate to drop the money on the pocket ones only to find out I shoulda went with flat style.



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Old 04-24-2012, 08:00 AM   #13
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I know. Figured other peeps might read this, though...
Sorry KB; I missread your post.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:33 AM   #14
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Sorry KB; I missread your post.
Not at all, dude. I'm glad you pointed it out, cuz I didn't say anything about the D44, which I should've.

It's like Rubis don't exist for me!
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:25 AM   #15
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I'm more concerned with "problems WITHOUT 35's"

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Old 04-24-2012, 09:40 AM   #16
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I have run 35's since I got my Jeep 4 years ago. I did regear, upgrade the ball joints, trim the pinch seam, upgrade the drive shaft ....yada yada yada, but they were things I wanted to do anyway. Putting 35's on for around here is a good idea so I was happy to do it & never have regretted it. If you aren't willing to pour a few thousand $ into upgrades then leave it stock.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:14 AM   #17
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Balancing issues
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:18 AM   #18
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Balancing issues
???
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:22 AM   #19
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???
Some shops either won't balance or say some bullshit like "we don't think we can balance such a BIG and knobby tire" :faceplam:

Or try and fail <------ trust me
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:25 AM   #20
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Is it still going to be necessary to sleeve and gusset the Rubi D44 or is that just with the D30?
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:32 AM   #21
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Is it still going to be necessary to sleeve and gusset the Rubi D44 or is that just with the D30?
If you wheel the jeep hard... Yes I would think so
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:36 PM   #22
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Ive wheeled the death out of my old TJ with a d30 and 35's. Never broke a thing. Unless you rock crawl, or saw the wheel hard while mudding, I dont see alot of issues with the d30 and 35's. Locking the d30 could create catastrophic stress with 35's. I just cant imagine people doing wheeling anymore then my redneck snowmobile trail riding and skidder trail riding that would kill a d30. Just saying. I know it happens but seriously? Ive yet to bust my JKU d30 either. And it gets abused like my ole TJ did, not to mention its alot heavier. Although im only running 285/75r16's.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:36 PM   #23
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Indeed. That guy just needed more attention from his Mommy.

If your talking about me, tell me how I'm a troll when all I did was try to answer your question.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:01 PM   #24
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Ive wheeled the death out of my old TJ with a d30 and 35's. Never broke a thing. Unless you rock crawl, or saw the wheel hard while mudding, I dont see alot of issues with the d30 and 35's. Locking the d30 could create catastrophic stress with 35's. I just cant imagine people doing wheeling anymore then my redneck snowmobile trail riding and skidder trail riding that would kill a d30. Just saying. I know it happens but seriously? Ive yet to bust my JKU d30 either. And it gets abused like my ole TJ did, not to mention its alot heavier. Although im only running 285/75r16's.
See, now I actually did rock crawling on 35" tires with several D30 fronts. Usually locked.

And I never had any issues, even on the type of trails where winches and lockers and at least 33" tires are required and you expect to get body damage every time you run.

I am just wondering why these newer axles are so prone to failure when with the D30's from the mid and late 90's, you wouldn't even think about sleeving, gusseting, etc. The front D44 is one of the main reasons I chose a Rubicon and now I am basically hearing it's no different than running a newer D30. I do understand that a lot of the axles' parts are the same size, but I just can't figure out why the newer axles are so weak.

Is this strictly a power/weight thing? As in the new JK's have more weight and more power? Because one of the vehicles I used to wheel was a heavy ZJ 5.9L with lots or armor and close to 300 modified HP as well.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:05 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Wharfrat

See, now I actually did rock crawling on 35" tires with several D30 fronts. Usually locked.

And I never had any issues, even on the type of trails where winches and lockers and at least 33" tires are required and you expect to get body damage every time you run.

I am just wondering why these newer axles are so prone to failure when with the D30's from the mid and late 90's, you wouldn't even think about sleeving, gusseting, etc. The front D44 is one of the main reasons I chose a Rubicon and now I am basically hearing it's no different than running a newer D30. I do understand that a lot of the axles' parts are the same size, but I just can't figure out why the newer axles are so weak.

Is this strictly a power/weight thing? As in the new JK's have more weight and more power? Because one of the vehicles I used to wheel was a heavy ZJ 5.9L with lots or armor and close to 300 modified HP as well.
Or is it just Internet info passed on with no real experiences?

Good ?
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:31 PM   #26
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Or is it just Internet info passed on with no real experiences?

Good ?
Very good, and a definite possibility. That's one of the things I have been trying to figure out.

I mean rock crawling is one thing, but people are talking about bending D44's hitting potholes these days.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:11 PM   #27
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The only issue I can even speculate is the smaller ujoints, but If there properly maintained and replaced as needed with preventitive maintenence in mind, I still dont see d30's self destructing. I wanna ride shotgun with the crazy Jeeper who can destroy the d30, it sounds scary and fun. My white knuckle driving has yet to do it. Even JP magazine and Petersons 4wd seem to only grenade the d30 when they pair high horse motors And tank like gearing to a project while running at hells or rubicon. Im not a d30 lover, and I would love to have some pro rock d60's with ox lockers and a hemi, but until my setup blows up, im not replacing anything : )
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:46 PM   #28
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If your talking about me, tell me how I'm a troll when all I did was try to answer your question.
No man, not you. You were helpful, thanks.

The troll post was deleted, probably my an admin.

The guy was saying that only pussies use 35's, and that we all need 42's.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:43 PM   #29
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No man, not you. You were helpful, thanks.

The troll post was deleted, probably my an admin.

The guy was saying that only pussies use 35's, and that we all need 42's.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.

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