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Old 07-12-2013, 03:29 PM   #31
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How much did the finished door end up weighing? I'm just curious. If I remember correctly mine weigh in at 33 lbs each. Which is considerably less than a stock door,yet probably offers twice as much protection.

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Old 07-12-2013, 05:01 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olsen185
Do you have any close ups of the latch? Where did you find the latch?

Last pick is what I bought at ACE hardware, looks flimsy, but actually not, hammered out of 1/4" steel rod, I cut it off, and TIG welded it to a 1/2" nut. Then welded a 3/8" x 1.5 inch bolt to tube/pipe. Slipped welded nut over bolt and double jam nutted with lock washed between nuts.
I also put a three inch strip of 3/8" thick armaflex (rubber pipe insulation) and glued with contact cement to tube riser. That eliminated rattles and keeps latch snug. It is VERY SECURE.

I am putting small pins thru door hinge pins, god forbid I do a roll over I don't want them things falling off and coming in at me!

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Old 07-12-2013, 05:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igivup
How much did the finished door end up weighing? I'm just curious. If I remember correctly mine weigh in at 33 lbs each. Which is considerably less than a stock door,yet probably offers twice as much protection.
Mine are 35 lbs. very stout. I am surprised theirs were not heavier, I used 1" pipe for horizontals, they use 1.25..

Do you know what became of them?

If I can find a new place with a decent 1k plus shop, I am considering making custom bumpers, doors, hood louvers, etc. a second business.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:24 PM   #34
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I'm not really sure, but it was just the one guy doing the manufacturing, Todd. So I think it was more of a side line that was demanding more and more of his time, and rather than keep people waiting, or hurry through the process, and end up with an inferior product, he simply decided it was time to set it aside, at least for now. Jeri, the gal that did the other side of the business, sales,etc., and Todd both are some of the nicest people you could ever deal with. I feel very fortunate to have been able to get a set of their doors built and shipped to my remote location, and that was all due to the great customer service they offered. I know at the time I bought mine I was their first Canadian customer, so shipping could have been a nightmare, but they worked hard to accommodate me, and keep my costs down by sharing the cost themselves, and that is not something many businesses do.
I would be interested to know if any other Canadians ended up purchasing a set from them if anyone has any idea.
By the looks of your doors, I don't think you will have any trouble selling them if you decide to go into production. I know that Roughshod used actual oem door pins, so the stock nuts could still be used when running them. Keeps them from being stolen quickly when sitting in a busy parking lot unattended!
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:25 AM   #35
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These doors look awesome! It's amazing you were able to do this using a $99 harbor freight pipe bender and you didn't use an actual pipe bender. Really fantastic work.

What did you use for a hinge? What size was the pin you used and where did you get them from?

I plan on doing something very similar to this soon.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:34 PM   #36
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I'm in for a set �� . Nice work with plenty of protection, great for rear doors with kids too.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:44 PM   #37
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I went to HF today and picked up their last bender. The box it was in was trashed so the manager offered me 40% off

Repauli,
How did you determine your bends? Did you just eyeball it, or did you make a template out of coat hanger or something? For the rear, i turned my door upside down and tried to use it as a template. One of my bends was about 1 inch too short and I think I'm gonna do it over.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:17 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olsen185
I went to HF today and picked up their last bender. The box it was in was trashed so the manager offered me 40% off

Repauli,
How did you determine your bends? Did you just eyeball it, or did you make a template out of coat hanger or something? For the rear, i turned my door upside down and tried to use it as a template. One of my bends was about 1 inch too short and I think I'm gonna do it over.
I sat in front of the door opening and took a pair of scissors and cut out a cardboard template to fit, laid it on bench and bent to match. When doing the 90 deg bends use the 2 nd from top position on pins.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:20 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olsen185
I went to HF today and picked up their last bender. The box it was in was trashed so the manager offered me 40% off

Repauli,
How did you determine your bends? Did you just eyeball it, or did you make a template out of coat hanger or something? For the rear, i turned my door upside down and tried to use it as a template. One of my bends was about 1 inch too short and I think I'm gonna do it over.
Good deal on $60 deal! Also don't try a one piece, make two or three, over sized, cut, bevel edge of pipe and butt weld, clamp sections with two clamps and angle iron to straighten and keep them parallel
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:28 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fkranich23
These doors look awesome! It's amazing you were able to do this using a $99 harbor freight pipe bender and you didn't use an actual pipe bender. Really fantastic work.

What did you use for a hinge? What size was the pin you used and where did you get them from?

I plan on doing something very similar to this soon.

Thanks for your help.
Thanks, I used a 3/8" steel rod, inserted into a 1/2" steel tube ( shorter than rod) then welded the rod to top of tube. I then welded these to a 1" wide x 4" long 3/16" flat bar.. Then I held door in place with welding magnets, with a 3/16 spacer on bottom of door opening ( taped on) and then inserted hinge to mark weld locations on pipe. Eyeballed angle the removed, tacked, refitted to check, then did final weld. I left enough pin stick out to drill a hole and insert a spring pin to retain door from bouncing up and out.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:34 PM   #41
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Check out these latches. For $9 they are a deal.
Door Latches | Trail Tubes
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:08 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by repauli1 View Post
Thanks, I used a 3/8" steel rod, inserted into a 1/2" steel tube ( shorter than rod) then welded the rod to top of tube. I then welded these to a 1" wide x 4" long 3/16" flat bar.. Then I held door in place with welding magnets, with a 3/16 spacer on bottom of door opening ( taped on) and then inserted hinge to mark weld locations on pipe. Eyeballed angle the removed, tacked, refitted to check, then did final weld. I left enough pin stick out to drill a hole and insert a spring pin to retain door from bouncing up and out.
thanks! Simple but brillent!
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:26 PM   #43
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This where I am at so far:



After making a template I was able to make it from two pieces, the bottom with the bends and the strait top. I am planning on at least one center bar, but possibly two
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:19 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olsen185
This where I am at so far:

After making a template I was able to make it from two pieces, the bottom with the bends and the strait top. I am planning on at least one center bar, but possibly two
Very nice you using one inch pipe?
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:22 PM   #45
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Broken in good at Badlands







They don't keep water out of tub :-(
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:21 PM   #46
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Broken in good at Badlands







They don't keep water out of tub :-(
I guess not huh. Haha

I wanted to start with a smaller sized tube, this is my first time with this kind of project.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:26 PM   #47
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This where I am at so far:

After making a template I was able to make it from two pieces, the bottom with the bends and the strait top. I am planning on at least one center bar, but possibly two
Progress report?
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:45 PM   #48
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Progress report?
I was gonna ask you the same. I have the doors welded and the hinges on. I came up with a design for a latch and will hopefully get it done tomorrow. Then sand and bedline.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:31 AM   #49
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I was gonna ask you the same. I have the doors welded and the hinges on. I came up with a design for a latch and will hopefully get it done tomorrow. Then sand and bedline.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.
All done and broken in, I don't think I am doing rears, I just wanted the fronts so I could see better trailing... Functionality versus looks.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:26 PM   #50
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I'm done with the rears. I probably have about $125 invested in them (including the price of the bender-$60). I'm not sure I'm gonna do front doors. These were mainly to keep my kids in. This was my first welding project so I'm pretty excited with the results.





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