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Old 12-17-2012, 06:35 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Con Artist
Nearly 10,000 miles on mine and the gas pedal is pretty firm. Not to mention, I simply can NOT get off to a smooth start, no matter what (manual transmission). I've been driving manuals for nearly 12 years and haven't had any problems with any of my manual vehicles until this one. It's impossible to feather the gas and I feel like I always have to rev the engine to about 2,000 RPMs to keep the damned thing from stalling.

...Maybe it's the electronic throttle?
Same here but with 35,000 miles. My pedal is light though. I was used to my TJ where I had to apply pressure to the gas pedal and the friction point on the clutch was much lower. In the JK, it's a pain because the friction point is WAY higher and the gas pedal shoots my RPM to 2,000 just by thinking about it. Gas is a lot more sensitive than I want it to be.

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Old 12-17-2012, 07:58 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Con Artist View Post
Sounds like I may wanna try removing it. How do I remove the spring?
It's worth a shot, you can always go back. There are instructions on page 1 of this thread

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Old 12-17-2012, 08:16 AM   #63
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sprintbooster

That is always another option.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:22 AM   #64
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It's worth a shot, you can always go back. There are instructions on page 1 of this thread
Guess I missed'em!
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:28 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by crypple View Post
Yes, mine is auto and I would hope this wasn't an issue on the manuals. I agree about the spring fatigue. I think the happy medium is between the removal of one spring and the fatigue of the stock system. I'm going to purchase a replacement pedal and shorten & stretch the small spring. It's slightly too soft right now but I think I can get it ideal that way.
With the manuals, it seems like it's "all or nothing." Initial depression of the gas pedal is stiff, but once there's some "fuel response," it's smooth sailing. It's just that you really have to give it a good mash off the get-go.

It's near impossible to start off smoothly, and what I find myself doing is having to depress the gas pedal, then feather out the clutch, keeping the revs at about 1,500-2,000 RPMs or so.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:51 PM   #66
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I did the spring yesterday just for the hell of it. Removed the smaller OEM spring and substituted one I had laying around the garage. Same diameter and length but finer wire. I vote Win Win for this mod!
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:12 AM   #67
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It shouldn't move around as it's inside the larger spring just like the original spring was.
Not sure about the diameter and length, but the picture I posted gives you some idea. I bought the spring at Home Depot in a package with a few other compression springs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSport View Post
What's to stop your new inside spring from flopping around?

BTW what diameter and length was the new spring before you modded it?
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:29 AM   #68
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This is a useful discussion. I test drove two new Unlimiteds yesterday (one auto, one manual) and this was my biggest concern. I almost thought I COULDNT get a new Jeep.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by SilverSport View Post
I did the spring yesterday just for the hell of it. Removed the smaller OEM spring and substituted one I had laying around the garage. Same diameter and length but finer wire. I vote Win Win for this mod!
I wish you would have taken some photos. I was gonna look into it but I dunno which panels to remove, how to remove them, etc.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:53 AM   #70
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I wish you would have taken some photos. I was gonna look into it but I dunno which panels to remove, how to remove them, etc.
go to my post #51 in this thread,, it shows what panels to remove and at what angle you need to get your ratchet extension swivel at ,,, remember 10mm socket 1\4 drive 18 inch extension,,, oh and put swivel between the socket and extension,
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:04 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by GREEN-MACHINE View Post
go to my post #51 in this thread,, it shows what panels to remove and at what angle you need to get your ratchet extension swivel at ,,, remember 10mm socket 1\4 drive 18 inch extension,,, oh and put swivel between the socket and extension,
Will do! Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:59 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Con Artist

It's near impossible to start off smoothly, and what I find myself doing is having to depress the gas pedal, then feather out the clutch, keeping the revs at about 1,500-2,000 RPMs or so.
:shocked face:

Do you smell burning clutch?!
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:08 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Con Artist View Post
I wish you would have taken some photos. I was gonna look into it but I dunno which panels to remove, how to remove them, etc.
I didn't have time to take photos; I was busy polishing walnuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GREEN-MACHINE View Post
go to my post #51 in this thread,, it shows what panels to remove and at what angle you need to get your ratchet extension swivel at ,,, remember 10mm socket 1\4 drive 18 inch extension,,, oh and put swivel between the socket and extension,
The only thing I did different was go in thru the opening where the panels were removed to access the top nut. Still used the u joint on the extension.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:54 PM   #74
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Did mine tonight, much better taking off with the 6 speed now. Feels like my old YJ I used to have. Props to SDSKPA on the 30 minute install. I was about an hour and a half. Gotta lose some weight, trying to get my fat ass under the dash was a pain!
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:10 PM   #75
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Awesome write-up! This just fixed the one thing I hated about my JK vs my TJ. That has now been rectified. Only took me less than an hour, start to finish.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:08 PM   #76
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I've had it a month and just cracked 500. Yeah, I gotta get out more...
I think I hit 500 in a week lol. I went on drives late at night just because I enjoyed driving it.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:39 PM   #77
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I had the same issue with my girlfriends Ford Fusion. Jumped in it after my Jeep and dumped an iced tea on her lap from the soft pedal leading to rabbit launch. LOL
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:58 AM   #78
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I know it has been a few months back since anyone posted in this thread but I figured I'd chime in.

Someone mentioned a sprintbooster earlier but that doesn't exactly fix this problem. I have a flashpack installed on my 09 jk along with a sprintbooster. The jeep responds a lot better with both installed but it doesn't solve the stiff pedal. The sprintbooster tricks the computer into thinking you have pushed the pedal down farther than what you actually did. Even at that its still a pain to drive around town.

I'm thinking about pulling the spring out tonight because mine is still driving me nuts. Maybe I won't have but one extra part when I get finished lol.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:07 AM   #79
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My 2 cents? For all the postulating about leaving the pedal stock, I've had mine on a single spring system for almost 12 months now and it's awesome. Drives so much smoother and there's no problems whatsoever offroad. Why people think that almost everything on the Jeep is able to be modified except a gas pedal is beyond me. Pull the inner spring out, you'll enjoy the difference.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:03 AM   #80
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With me it's the clutch.
My cobalt Clutch has alot more resistance then my JK Clutch
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:33 PM   #81
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Anyone done this on a 2014?
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:48 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by crypple View Post
I did this this afternoon on my JK 2012. I'd clocked 1800miles and was still very unhappy with the gas pedal, it did not release or get easier so it was time to take it apart. Here's a few tips that may help you a little. Sorry there are no pics but hopefully this is descriptive enough.

(BTW, if you do this PLEASE take a photo of the internals of the gas pedal spring assembly. I can't figure out how one part goes back in... it works fine, but still, I feel like a dumbass )

PEDAL ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Put the steering wheel up and push the drivers seat back
2. Remove the plastic panel below the steering wheel. It is held in place by 4 clips, just pull out from the bottom to release.
3. Behind that you will find a metal plate with 2 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and slide the metal plate up and out to remove.
4. You will likely see an electrical box immediately behind the plate. I'm not sure what it's for, but unplug the two loom plugs and move them out of the way.
5. At this point you should be able to shine a light through the opening and see the gas pedal assembly. Reach under the dash and locate the drive-by-wire plug on top of the assembly, unplug and move it to the side.
6. The gas pedal is held in place by two 10mm nuts. The lower one is easily seen by looking under the dash. Get to it with a socket and remove.
7. The top one is harder to reach. I used an 18" socket extender with a flexible extension tip to make the turn at the very end. Insert the extension through the opening created by removing the metal plate. Simultaneously reach under the dash to the top of the pedal. With some maneuvering you should be able to get the socket on the nut and remove.
8. Lift the pedal assembly out

PEDAL DIS-ASSEMBLY
1. Use two Flathead screwdrivers to carefully (it's fragile) lift the clips holding the clam-shell of the spring casing together. The clips grab from both sides so it takes some finessing but be careful and it's pretty straight forward
2. CAREFULLY separate the clamshell to expose the internals of the spring assembly
3. STOP - Take a picture of the spring assembly and note the two white plastic parts and their exact location. I neglected to do this and wasted 45mins figuring out how they went back in. PLEASE attach that photo to this post so I can make sure I did it right
4. Carefully remove the springs. There are 2 springs nested within each other. You can remove the whole pedal but it's probably easier to just pull out the springs so you don't have to muck around with putting all the parts back in place
5. Remove the smaller, inner spring leaving the large spring in place. By testing both I decided this was more stable then removing the larger spring as the small one looks like it could pop out of place if it was in there alone.
6. Replace the larger spring, check the pedal for operation. The white plastic piece that controls the acceleration should run smoothly back and forth in the channel at the back of the assembly.
7. Snap closed the clamshell

Reverse the first steps to put the pedal back in place. Start her up and test it.

After doing this mod I now am so much happier with the driving experience. Before this city driving was a PITA as I had to fight the gas pedal for every incremental movement and smooth, finite operation was near impossible. I understand why the tension is so strong for bumpy offroading... but I much prefer it smooth and silky like it is now.

I'm very happy with it. Hopefully this has been helpful for someone with the same issues.
I just took the small spring out like you said, it was very easy to do and i am very happy with how the petal feels now. Thanks
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:58 AM   #83
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I know this topic a bit old but I have to ask. I drive a 2012 4 door JK.

I find when the gas is low in the jeep, the pedal needs more force to get moving. But as soon as I fill the jeep up to the max, the pedal becomes like air, no force behind it at all when pushed.

Is this only me ?
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:24 AM   #84
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At first my Jeep felt stiff, but after about 1500 miles, she's loosened up considerably, especially the motor and throttle response.

My other car is a GTI and it's a polar opposite of the Jeep. Precision shift / gearing, "brap" throttle response and fast vs. vague shifter, mushy controls and you ain't goin' anywhere in a hurry.
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:34 PM   #85
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I had a heck of a time coming from the '14 Cherokee. My wife was thinking I wasn't noticing the light turned green! After 2,000 miles I don't even think about it. Ultimately I actually prefer it to being too soft.

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