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Old 03-15-2012, 11:16 PM   #1
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Pushing that gas pedal

My '12 JK gas pedal has a LOT of resistance. It was easy to get used to it but when I jump in the wife's car I damn near do a wheelie cause her's doesn't have any resistance at all.
Anyone know if the pedal resistence on the JK is adjustable? Need to lighten that bugger up a bit.

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Old 03-15-2012, 11:23 PM   #2
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How many miles on yours? Not that it is great but after 1000 miles mine got better but I totally know what you mean I jump around a TT and a Juke and have a hard time adjusting back.

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Old 03-15-2012, 11:24 PM   #3
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How many miles on yours? Not that it is great but after 1000 miles mine got better but I totally know what you mean I jump around a TT and a Juke and have a hard time adjusting back.
I've had it a month and just cracked 500. Yeah, I gotta get out more...
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:29 PM   #4
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Believe it or not the second you hit 1000 miles the jeep comes alive. It's hard to explain but you are in for a surprise and a pleasant one at that. Seems like they have some kind of breakin procedure pre programmed.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:31 PM   #5
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I haven't noticed a difference but the 3.6L runs on unicorn tears so you must take it easy

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Believe it or not the second you hit 1000 miles the jeep comes alive. It's hard to explain but you are in for a surprise and a pleasant one at that. Seems like they have some kind of breakin procedure pre programmed.
I'm at 600 miles so I hope so, but I'm already more impressed than what my 09 did.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:39 PM   #6
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I do a lot of short sub-2 mile driving with my Jeep and find myself feathering the gas pedal because I'm worried that I haven't sufficiently warmed up the engine.

Coming from a 190k mile Jeep that I used to just used to stomp the gas on right out of the garage, I have no reference point.

Long story short, I'm worried that I'm doing too much babying.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:45 PM   #7
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Believe it or not the second you hit 1000 miles the jeep comes alive. It's hard to explain but you are in for a surprise and a pleasant one at that. Seems like they have some kind of breakin procedure pre programmed.
BIG TIME!
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:00 AM   #8
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I am very intuned to the way mine runs and I can tell you it has adjusted at 600miles, and 850 miles. IM at 920 now so I cant wait for 1000. At 600 is switched my computer back to read F and i had to switch back to C and it had more power at 800 the sat radio updated and it hadmore power. Stay tuned for 1000. There is deff a break in programmed in.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:17 AM   #9
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I also feel that is has a bit too much resistance. I have over 2000 miles on mine and it hasn't loosened up a bit.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:22 AM   #10
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you can remove the gas pedal ( 2-10 mm screws ) take the assembly apart, you will see 2 springs inside, one small one large, remove the large spring.
gas pedal is now nice and squishy.. like dog poop on a hot summers day after a T-storm.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:24 AM   #11
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you can remove the gas pedal ( 2-10 mm screws ) take the assembly apart, you will see 2 springs inside, one small one large, remove the large spring.
gas pedal is now nice and squishy.. like dog poop on a hot summers day after a T-storm.
I know what I'm doing this afternoon

Thanks!
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:36 AM   #12
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I know what I'm doing this afternoon

Thanks!
have fun getting the top nut off,,,, fyi,,, get the smallest 10mm you can find and use an allen key,,or a 10mm offset ignition wrench.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:54 AM   #13
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I never really noticed it until I got into my sisters car and made a fool of myself. I looked like a teenager driving a standard for the first time!
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREEN-MACHINE View Post
you can remove the gas pedal ( 2-10 mm screws ) take the assembly apart, you will see 2 springs inside, one small one large, remove the large spring.
gas pedal is now nice and squishy.. like dog poop on a hot summers day after a T-storm.
Seems I'm not the only one with a lead foot while changing cars. Thanks for the fix
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:57 PM   #15
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Is it possible they are making it stronger springs so that if you are bouncing around offroad your are less likely to accidentally accellerate?
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:41 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by GREEN-MACHINE View Post
have fun getting the top nut off,,,, fyi,,, get the smallest 10mm you can find and use an allen key,,or a 10mm offset ignition wrench.
I looked under there yesterday and couldn't even see the top nut! I'll look for it again today.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:49 AM   #17
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I looked under there yesterday and couldn't even see the top nut! I'll look for it again today.
unplug the the wiring harness and move it up and out of the way,,, forgot to mention you have to take some of the trim panels off ( D'OH ) .. pull the 2 panels off under the steering wheel and also the metal cover thats held on by 2 13mm bolts. then you can see (barely) the top nut.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:50 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by ronrad
Is it possible they are making it stronger springs so that if you are bouncing around offroad your are less likely to accidentally accellerate?
^ This.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:55 PM   #19
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Anyone have any luck with this fix? Or a good detailed write up?
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREEN-MACHINE View Post
you can remove the gas pedal ( 2-10 mm screws ) take the assembly apart, you will see 2 springs inside, one small one large, remove the large spring.
gas pedal is now nice and squishy.. like dog poop on a hot summers day after a T-storm.

(Applause to the instructions...eeewwwwhhhh to the description).
Me too. Hate the gas pedal. Putting this on the "to do list".
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:23 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by GREEN-MACHINE View Post
unplug the the wiring harness and move it up and out of the way,,, forgot to mention you have to take some of the trim panels off ( D'OH ) .. pull the 2 panels off under the steering wheel and also the metal cover thats held on by 2 13mm bolts. then you can see (barely) the top nut.
Wondering how your experience has been after several months of working with the large spring removed? I'm in need of this adjustment as city driving in wearing out my shins, but I want to make sure this is a good mod. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:08 PM   #22
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I did this this afternoon on my JK 2012. I'd clocked 1800miles and was still very unhappy with the gas pedal, it did not release or get easier so it was time to take it apart. Here's a few tips that may help you a little. Sorry there are no pics but hopefully this is descriptive enough.

(BTW, if you do this PLEASE take a photo of the internals of the gas pedal spring assembly. I can't figure out how one part goes back in... it works fine, but still, I feel like a dumbass )

PEDAL ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Put the steering wheel up and push the drivers seat back
2. Remove the plastic panel below the steering wheel. It is held in place by 4 clips, just pull out from the bottom to release.
3. Behind that you will find a metal plate with 2 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and slide the metal plate up and out to remove.
4. You will likely see an electrical box immediately behind the plate. I'm not sure what it's for, but unplug the two loom plugs and move them out of the way.
5. At this point you should be able to shine a light through the opening and see the gas pedal assembly. Reach under the dash and locate the drive-by-wire plug on top of the assembly, unplug and move it to the side.
6. The gas pedal is held in place by two 10mm nuts. The lower one is easily seen by looking under the dash. Get to it with a socket and remove.
7. The top one is harder to reach. I used an 18" socket extender with a flexible extension tip to make the turn at the very end. Insert the extension through the opening created by removing the metal plate. Simultaneously reach under the dash to the top of the pedal. With some maneuvering you should be able to get the socket on the nut and remove.
8. Lift the pedal assembly out

PEDAL DIS-ASSEMBLY
1. Use two Flathead screwdrivers to carefully (it's fragile) lift the clips holding the clam-shell of the spring casing together. The clips grab from both sides so it takes some finessing but be careful and it's pretty straight forward
2. CAREFULLY separate the clamshell to expose the internals of the spring assembly
3. STOP - Take a picture of the spring assembly and note the two white plastic parts and their exact location. I neglected to do this and wasted 45mins figuring out how they went back in. PLEASE attach that photo to this post so I can make sure I did it right
4. Carefully remove the springs. There are 2 springs nested within each other. You can remove the whole pedal but it's probably easier to just pull out the springs so you don't have to muck around with putting all the parts back in place
5. Remove the smaller, inner spring leaving the large spring in place. By testing both I decided this was more stable then removing the larger spring as the small one looks like it could pop out of place if it was in there alone.
6. Replace the larger spring, check the pedal for operation. The white plastic piece that controls the acceleration should run smoothly back and forth in the channel at the back of the assembly.
7. Snap closed the clamshell

Reverse the first steps to put the pedal back in place. Start her up and test it.

After doing this mod I now am so much happier with the driving experience. Before this city driving was a PITA as I had to fight the gas pedal for every incremental movement and smooth, finite operation was near impossible. I understand why the tension is so strong for bumpy offroading... but I much prefer it smooth and silky like it is now.

I'm very happy with it. Hopefully this has been helpful for someone with the same issues.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:01 PM   #23
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On my '11 this was one of my #1 complaints. It seems to only be an issue on the automatics. The manuals I test drove (including the '12 I'm in now) didn't have this problem. But...after about 15,000 miles it losened up on my '11. I thought about removing a spring...but if you think about it, it's naturally going to fatigue over time and then you're going to want that spring back in there. So my advice is just let time run it's course and it'll feel great to you this time next year.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:13 PM   #24
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Is it possible they are making it stronger springs so that if you are bouncing around offroad your are less likely to accidentally accellerate?
Thats a good point and makes real sense.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:23 PM   #25
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So my advice is just let time run it's course and it'll feel great to you this time next year.
Yes, mine is auto and I would hope this wasn't an issue on the manuals. I agree about the spring fatigue. I think the happy medium is between the removal of one spring and the fatigue of the stock system. I'm going to purchase a replacement pedal and shorten & stretch the small spring. It's slightly too soft right now but I think I can get it ideal that way.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:23 PM   #26
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never have driven an automatic [pentastar]... my pedal is fine, wouldn't want it different either way.. but certainly not easier to puch. i need a little resistance. perhaps someone who shares a US size 14 shoe designed the pedal... if so.. thanks! perfecto!
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:37 PM   #27
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Gas pedal hard to push, man card rejected.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:41 PM   #28
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I have a size 13 and the pedal is horrible the clutch pedal is a lot softer I guess im used to stiffer clutches but the gas pedal is Deff really stiff for zone reason
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:47 PM   #29
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I have the 6 speed. While the pedal has more resistance than the one in my pickup, I don't have to use excessive force. But I also drive with most of my foot on the pedal. Perhaps pushing on just the bottom section of the pedal makes a difference?
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:07 PM   #30
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I actually prefer a firm gas pedal on a off-road vehicle. It's too easy to gallop a off-road vehicle with a soft pedal. Like my YJ for instance, a deck of cards will hold the gas pedal down.

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