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Old 06-02-2012, 08:51 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Silverton34 View Post
Never use the invoice supplied by the dealer to calculate price. They manipulate invoice with co-op advertising often in hundreds of dollars. The only number the dealer cannot manipulate is the sticker price or msrp on the Monroney label "window sticker". Do your homework and calculate the invoice price from the msrp. Remember they have holdback Of an additional 3% below invoice and this time of year have volume incentives. These incentives are set according to past sales volume for each dealer so the larger dealers do not have an advantage.
The Chrysler factory invoice does not contain any "fudging." It also reveals the Affiliate or Friends and Family price and Employee price. With the Chrysler Affiliate Rewards program, the dealer is required to show you the factory invoice, and can charge no more than the exact "PP" price listed.

Here's an example of a factory invoice:

Click image for larger version

Name:	Factory Invoice.jpg
Views:	1367
Size:	148.0 KB
ID:	128411

MDH = Manufacturer Dealer Holdback
EP = Employee Price
PP = Affiliate Rewards Program Price


So, always use the Chrysler factory invoice to calculate price, but never some dealer created phoney invoice.

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Old 06-02-2012, 09:18 PM   #32
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dealer was asking 38,000 i got it for 29,900...albuquerque new mexico..drove allt he way fro amarillo.....if you have a chance go there super nice folks...mark's casa jeep!!!!

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Old 06-02-2012, 10:05 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
The Chrysler factory invoice does not contain any "fudging." It also reveals the Affiliate or Friends and Family price and Employee price. With the Chrysler Affiliate Rewards program, the dealer is required to show you the factory invoice, and can charge no more than the exact "PP" price listed.

Here's an example of a factory invoice:

Attachment 128411

MDH = Manufacturer Dealer Holdback
EP = Employee Price
PP = Affiliate Rewards Program Price


So, always use the Chrysler factory invoice to calculate price, but never some dealer created phoney invoice.
Thats good information UHB, would you mind explaining it a little more for a noob? So the PP or affiliates price is their top dollar they are allowed to charge, as you stated that they are not allowed to charge more than the PP listed. I am asking because i am in the boat where I hope to be buying in the next day or two. Also if thats the top dollar they can sell for I am assuming as stated earlier we should be offering no more than 1% below invoice as our last stand, is that listed on the invoice and I dont see it or do we just whip out our calculator and get to adding up those figures on the right column? Thanks for the information.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:10 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
The Chrysler factory invoice does not contain any "fudging." It also reveals the Affiliate or Friends and Family price and Employee price. With the Chrysler Affiliate Rewards program, the dealer is required to show you the factory invoice, and can charge no more than the exact "PP" price listed.

Here's an example of a factory invoice:

Attachment 128411

MDH = Manufacturer Dealer Holdback
EP = Employee Price
PP = Affiliate Rewards Program Price


So, always use the Chrysler factory invoice to calculate price, but never some dealer created phoney invoice.
Watch out for the ADV line added to invoices for dealers co-op ad group. It does not change the PP price but does the total invoice price. It became popular several years ago to negotiate from invoice total so we had Chrysler build in ad dollars to pad the invoice amount. Nice legal Chrysler invoice with an increased invoice cost guaranteeing us more profit. Worked really well on the customers who thought invoice dollar amounts were always set by Chrysler.

Always negotiate from msrp using known discount percentages unless you qualify for package pricing. The msrp and PP numbers are about the only numbers that cannot be manipulated by the dealer.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:26 PM   #35
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Thats good information UHB, would you mind explaining it a little more for a noob? So the PP or affiliates price is their top dollar they are allowed to charge, as you stated that they are not allowed to charge more than the PP listed. I am asking because i am in the boat where I hope to be buying in the next day or two. Also if thats the top dollar they can sell for I am assuming as stated earlier we should be offering no more than 1% below invoice as our last stand, is that listed on the invoice and I dont see it or do we just whip out our calculator and get to adding up those figures on the right column? Thanks for the information.
The PP price is the maximum price that can be charged for the subject vehicle under the Chrysler Affiliate Rewards program. You may be eligible for the program through your employer, or, you can join Tread Lightly (3 yrs. for $60) and become eligible.

Tread Lightly - Individual Memberships

You then use your employer's or Tread Lightly's "company code," which you will receive in a membership letter in about a week, to obtain a Chrysler "control number."

https://www.chrysleraffiliates.com/l...tPricingLayout

Ask your dealer if they participate in the Chrysler Affiliate program - almost all do. They will follow the program rules, guaranteed by Chrysler.

Among the rules are that they may not add on any extra charges, including regional advertising.

You will get the vehicle for no more than 99% of invoice + $75 + limited DOC fees, state taxes, tags, registration. NOTHING else! You cannot be required to buy any extras you don't want - like extended warranties, undercoating, paint protection, or any of those total rip-offs. All current incentives also apply to reduce that price, like military discount, etc.

The catch for you is that you are supposed to be a member of TL for at least 30 days before you use your control number, although no one has ever reported that being enforced. It's a good deal for the dealer, too. He gets an extra 2% of invoice back from Chrysler on top of holdback and any other dealer incentives.

Without the program, the dealer can charge whatever they please, if you agree to pay it!
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:35 PM   #36
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Ahh ok I see, sounds like joining TL is the way to go. I work for the government and seems the G doesnt seem to be listed on that affiliates group list. Ill have to look into the mil discount to see if its current active mil only or if vets apply as well. That would sure be great. Again thank you.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:39 PM   #37
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... Ill have to look into the mil discount to see if its current active mil only or if vets apply as well. That would sure be great. Again thank you.

The program will probably save you thousands of $, and a whole lot of aggravation.

Military $500 discount is for active and retired military.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:04 AM   #38
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Hmmm not retired but I am a vet.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:03 PM   #39
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Hmmm not retired but I am a vet.
Me too. But, not eligible.

Here's who the Jeep website says qualify:

"Active, Active Reserved, Retired Military or Retire Military Reserve"
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:48 PM   #40
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Bummer. Oh well thanks for the info.

So I looked at a sport unlimited today. It had the automatic 24c package, soft top (I wanted a hard top but all the hard tops had a ton of added features I didn't want driving the price up), connectivity group, and trailer tow group. Was stickered at 28ish. I asked about the tread lightly and nobody I talked to knew what I was talking about. I explained it and they said they'd give it to me plus mil discount but I definitely got the feeling they were blowing smoke. Gonna go back and negotiate on price after I drop the wife and kids off. Any advice on what I should be trying to get for price on this set up? No power windows or locks etc.
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:51 PM   #41
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... I asked about the tread lightly and nobody I talked to knew what I was talking about. ...
Ask if they participate in the Chrysler Affiliate Rewards program. No reason they should know that Tread Lightly membership is one of about 1200 ways you can qualify for it.

Have you thought about waiting and ordering a 2013 with just exactly what you want instead of picking a pig-in-a-poke off the lot?
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:01 PM   #42
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Bummer. Oh well thanks for the info.

So I looked at a sport unlimited today. It had the automatic 24c package, soft top (I wanted a hard top but all the hard tops had a ton of added features I didn't want driving the price up), connectivity group, and trailer tow group. Was stickered at 28ish. I asked about the tread lightly and nobody I talked to knew what I was talking about. I explained it and they said they'd give it to me plus mil discount but I definitely got the feeling they were blowing smoke. Gonna go back and negotiate on price after I drop the wife and kids off. Any advice on what I should be trying to get for price on this set up? No power windows or locks etc.
When I told my the salesman on phone I had TL membership if I could get a discount (they adverised 12% off sticker, i.e. about 8% off invoice), he didn't have clue what that is. He came back after asking the sales manager and was told they had a discount better than the TL membersip (Of course I knew, but I was hoping they could discount that 2% dealer would get from TL into my price which didn't happen).

I did have the TL membership but ended up I didn't need that.

Anyway, depends on your location (I couldn't figure out your location "Southern CA, IE"?), if the dealer is a volume seller, shoot for 10%-14$ off stickers as some people had mentioned.
Or just wait for the 2013 to order exactly you want (I would do so if I hadn't have found the exact 2012 I wanted and got a good price)
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:38 PM   #43
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Are they actually offering you those discounts or are they just "available" discounts. My dealer told me they use those to bait you in but ypu wont qualify for most of them. Like others have said. Start at invoice. Go to Edmunds.com and put in the exact vehicle you are looking at. It will give you MSRP, Invoice, and what they think you should pay. Which will be lower than invoice. Then negotiate down from there
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:12 PM   #44
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When I told my the salesman on phone I had TL membership if I could get a discount (they adverised 12% off sticker, i.e. about 8% off invoice), he didn't have clue what that is. He came back after asking the sales manager and was told they had a discount better than the TL membersip (Of course I knew, but I was hoping they could discount that 2% dealer would get from TL into my price which didn't happen).

I did have the TL membership but ended up I didn't need that.

Anyway, depends on your location (I couldn't figure out your location "Southern CA, IE"?), if the dealer is a volume seller, shoot for 10%-14$ off stickers as some people had mentioned.
Or just wait for the 2013 to order exactly you want (I would do so if I hadn't have found the exact 2012 I wanted and got a good price)
I live in corona, ca. I went to the dealership in riverside (moss bros, I believe). Probably not a good choice as they had an additional Paper with the window sticker stating $1900 dealer mark up. So I doubt they are gonna offer me much other than what I can come up with to get out of them.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:30 AM   #45
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I live in corona, ca. I went to the dealership in riverside (moss bros, I believe). Probably not a good choice as they had an additional Paper with the window sticker stating $1900 dealer mark up. So I doubt they are gonna offer me much other than what I can come up with to get out of them.
Dealer mark up? what they are thinking?
Depends on how far you can go, check the Downey (Champion) Jeep dealer's web site, they posted discounted price and I got below their posted price without ANY incentive. I know it's farther away but just see if they have anything you want. You might also check Huntington Beach.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:31 AM   #46
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Are they actually offering you those discounts or are they just "available" discounts. My dealer told me they use those to bait you in but ypu wont qualify for most of them. Like others have said. Start at invoice. Go to Edmunds.com and put in the exact vehicle you are looking at. It will give you MSRP, Invoice, and what they think you should pay. Which will be lower than invoice. Then negotiate down from there
The first thing I talked to the salesman was "this is the only Wrangler I wanted, I'm not qualified for any incentives, not military, not disabled, not just graduated, and my offer is...". Got it below their discounted price.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:18 AM   #47
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I talked to a salesman here at the "largest volume Jeep dealer in WA" (they actually are). He showed me the PP and said that was pretty much it.

I'll be ordering a 2013, but I don't want to pay just PP. I still want more discounts. I'm going to get a pretty well fully loaded Rubicon, so I think he should help me out a bit, especially as I'll be ordering sight unseen. <insert crazy emoticon here... lol>

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