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Old 09-10-2013, 02:52 PM   #1
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Questions about Quick Disconnects

Good morning professors of Off-Road 101,

I'm clearly riding the short bus around campus when it comes to replacing sway bar disconnects and I'm hoping you all can fill me in on the details.

Here's the starting point. I own a 2013 JKU Rubicon. I'm planning a 2.5"-3" lift and probably 35" tires. The lift might be done piecemeal style (coils from MC and shocks from Rancho etc etc).

1.) Is replacing the stock electronic disconnects on my Rubicon necessary for a lift this size? IE: Why do so many starting "packages" neglect to add these? (TF Coil, AEV 2.5 etc)

2.) Does replacing Rubicon quick disco's change my ability to simply push a button on my dash to disco while wheelin (noob)?

3.) Why should discos be swapped out when lifting? Pros and Cons (deep dive)

4.) If they're not swapped out completely does lifting require a bracket type extension to keep the originals?

Thanks for taking the time to school a beginner!

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Old 09-11-2013, 09:53 AM   #2
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Bump, nobody wanted to field this one? Come on now, where are all the edjucators?

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Old 09-11-2013, 10:02 AM   #3
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You want the sway bar it self to run parallel +/- 5* when installing a lift.
Some kits move the factory rears to the front because they're longer.
The button will work fine but for extreme stuff, still opt for disconnects or manually disconnect to not fold over and damage the swaybar,
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You want the sway bar it self to run parallel +/- 5* when installing a lift.
Some kits move the factory rears to the front because they're longer.
The button will work fine but for extreme stuff, still opt for disconnects or manually disconnect to not fold over and damage the swaybar,
Are you saying you can fold them over while electronically disconnected? So still a good idea to get them even with the rubicon?
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You want the sway bar it self to run parallel +/- 5* when installing a lift.
Some kits move the factory rears to the front because they're longer.
The button will work fine but for extreme stuff, still opt for disconnects or manually disconnect to not fold over and damage the swaybar,
Thanks for the response kjeeper!

So it sounds like a longer disconnect is needed after a lift whether it's a new replacement part or swapping the rear stock parts to the front.

Do the longer (replaced) quick disconnects dangle down when disco'd creating a situation where under flex it could get bent around the sway bar itself? Is this why some provide brackets to pin them up?

Just seemed interesting that most 2.5 kits leave them out of the package which leaves you with yet another 125-150 bucks of expense to complete your lift.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiNooby View Post

Thanks for the response kjeeper!

So it sounds like a longer disconnect is needed after a lift whether it's a new replacement part or swapping the rear stock parts to the front.

Do the longer (replaced) quick disconnects dangle down when disco'd creating a situation where under flex it could get bent around the sway bar itself? Is this why some provide brackets to pin them up?

Just seemed interesting that most 2.5 kits leave them out of the package which leaves you with yet another 125-150 bucks of expense to complete your lift.
Rough country disconnects come with a bracket you attach the links to after DC. Most others zip tie to the sway bar. And are more expensive but hey they look fancier!
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smud View Post

Are you saying you can fold them over while electronically disconnected? So still a good idea to get them even with the rubicon?
Yes yes !!
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:59 AM   #8
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I bought my rig used and found out the PO didn't lengthen the disconnects. Four months after I bought my rig, the steering stabilizer bracket broke off while driving down the road. Come to find out, the sway bar disconnects had flipped and caused alot of strain on the axle components. I bought some new disconnects and problem solved. I have a sport but the principal is the same.

Before and after pics.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:00 AM   #9
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Yea like mentioned, most quick disco kits provide brackets to secure them up out of the way.

The 2.5" kits usually just replace the rears and the factory rears go to the front, or .... Quick disco's.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #10
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Yes yes !!
Sorry, noob offroader here... so then it sounds like it's better to not use the electronic disconnect on the rubi at all, since, if you have to do the manual quick disconnects, that, in effect, does it for you. There is no benefit in doing both, no?
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by smud View Post

Sorry, noob offroader here... so then it sounds like it's better to not use the electronic disconnect on the rubi at all, since, if you have to do the manual quick disconnects, that, in effect, does it for you. There is no benefit in doing both, no?
Manual disco all the way. The electric likes to turn on and off on you
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smud View Post

Sorry, noob offroader here... so then it sounds like it's better to not use the electronic disconnect on the rubi at all, since, if you have to do the manual quick disconnects, that, in effect, does it for you. There is no benefit in doing both, no?
One or the other.

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