Yes it will work, but be aware that the lift assembly will hang down maybe a foot from the ceiling. When the hardtop is secured to the lift you will be able to pull the front of your rig under it. You won't be able to walk under the top with out ducking though LOL. Many on here have that lift, works great and hard to beat for the money. I have mine with 10 foot ceilings and can walk under my top when it's in the air. Keep my soft top secured to the top of shelf of the hoist in the winter. HTH
9 foot ceiling and jeep has 2" level kit on 33s. Freedom panels are stacked on top of the shelf. I used pipe insulation tubes on the rack ends and ratchet straps to go under the hardtop. Works great! If I had 8 foot ceiling I probably would have moved the system back further so it was over just the hood, but then I would have to find a home for the yak.:doh:
Yes it's super easy with a cordless drill used as the motor for the lift so none of the rope and pulley BS the "big name" top hoist uses. The shelf of the Racor can be used for other things too to free up space. Try that with the Harken.
I would have to agree with you because just looking at the install of the other one with all the pulleys seems rather difficult. I'm sure it's great once installed but the Racor has the shelf and no pulleys.
I will echo the comment that once you get bigger tires/lift you might be maxed out to get the top on and off. with my 2 door it came really close to barely lifting the top off. My JKUR is a soft top only.
I wil definitely keep that in mind, I might be able to modify it a bit... the rafters in my garage are exposed so I might be able to get a few more inches
So....
As I am looking at the ceiling I noticed that the joists are running the opposite way that the Rancor is supposed to be mounted, ugh!
So should I add the 2X6 supports or just mount to the ceiling as is. (trying to get as much space as possible especially after I lift the JKU) Not real sure if I like the crank assembly in the front???
Anyone using is this way? Other suggestions?
As was said above, just add some bracing in the ceiling. If the ceiling is sturdy to begin with you really shouldn't have to brace that much. The weight of the lift and top is spread over a decent area.
I got into the attic and added bracing where I wanted it so the direction of the truss would not matter. That will save you a few inches if it is that tight.
I had the same issue with the trusses and had to add 2x4s in the attic. The crank assembly should be on the driver or passenger side of the jeep. Not facing the front or back. Otherwise, it would be a bad angle to use the crank.
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