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Old 12-13-2011, 07:31 PM   #1
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RC 3.5" lift do I need new drive shafts

Im looking at the 3.5" RC lift on my 2012 JKU I have read all the threads about having to move the exhaust but will I need to replace the drive shafts too? Has anyone installed this kit on the 4 door if so will I need anything thats not included in the kit?

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Old 12-13-2011, 07:33 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ncbmx64 View Post
Im looking at the 3.5" RC lift on my 2012 JKU I have read all the threads about having to move the exhaust but will I need to replace the drive shafts too? Has anyone installed this kit on the 4 door if so will I need anything thats not included in the kit?
from Raleigh. Why do you need 3.5?

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Old 12-13-2011, 07:36 PM   #3
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you may need a new front drive shaft
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:39 PM   #4
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From what I understand anything over 3 inches on a JKU you will need a new front drive shaft.. if not imediatly then soon enough
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:43 PM   #5
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from Raleigh. Why do you need 3.5?
WHY NOT? ahaha no real reason besides I like the look of a bigger lift I know I prob only need the 2.5
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #6
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Yup. What XJKnight said. I bought a FT 3" kit and a JE Reel front ds at the same time. Between the lift and shocks necessary for the lift (in this case 27.5" Bilsteins) you're stock ds will be at a fairly severe angle.

There are also issues with the exhaust pipe crossover on the '12's. Any shock 27.5" or more and you'll run into problems at full articulation.

You can get around this with a Teraflex exhaust spacer or an AFE Y-pipe, but at the height you mentioned you'll still need a front ds.
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #7
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WHY NOT? ahaha no real reason besides I like the look of a bigger lift I know I prob only need the 2.5
Drive shafts, ball joints, gussets, UCA, LCA, track bars....
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP

Drive shafts, ball joints, gussets, UCA, LCA, track bars....
Answered that question
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ESP View Post
Drive shafts, ball joints, gussets, UCA, LCA, track bars....
Bam!
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:51 PM   #10
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Maybe I will have to stick to the 2.5 lift then
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:56 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ncbmx64
Maybe I will have to stick to the 2.5 lift then
Hell yes....

I'm still deciding on either the TF 2.5 or RK 2.5.
From what I been reading and seeing are very good lifts.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #12
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Hell yes....

I'm still deciding on either the TF 2.5 or RK 2.5.
From what I been reading and seeing are very good lifts.
Absolutely. And plenty of room for big tires.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:08 PM   #13
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Running 3.5" RE lift here. '07 JKU. Arms/driveshafts are stock. No issues. Wheel it regular. Going on 2 years with this setup.



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Old 12-13-2011, 08:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ncbmx64 View Post
Maybe I will have to stick to the 2.5 lift then
Also, might wanna look at one of the lifts kjeeper mentioned. The RC has a tendency to sag, and I don't think it comes with everything you'd need to do the lift properly. Just what I've heard.

The lift is one place you definitely DON'T wanna cut corners. It can, and often will, cost you a lot more $$ down the road if you go half-assed on it (whether intentionally, or not).

All that said, it's still your choice. It's your Jeep. You want a 3.5" lift, go for it. But I'd read through the forum for awhile before you make that decision. There are many folks here who came in thinking just like you, and have since changed their minds, and most of them are happier (and better off financially) because of it.

My 2 cents.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by nwbronco View Post
Running 3.5" RE lift here. '07 JKU. Arms/driveshafts are stock. No issues. Wheel it regular. Going on 2 years with this setup.



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Have you checked the seal on both shafts recently? You cannot adjust your castor or pinion angles with stock arms. Without doing this the lift is putting more wear on all of these parts.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:15 PM   #16
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Yep. Checking stuff after every run. Still just like it came off of the factory floor. And I've got my numbers. I am not too bad off of stock. If I find them I will post them.


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Old 12-13-2011, 08:16 PM   #17
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Running 3.5" RE lift here. '07 JKU. Arms/driveshafts are stock. No issues. Wheel it regular. Going on 2 years with this setup.
Bob K.
A lot of folks do just what you're talking about, but without adjustable ca's you can't adjust caster/pinion, and you're front ds is at a very severe angle.

It's not a matter of if, but when.

Personally, I'd rather wheel not having to wonder when I'm gonna have to walk out.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:19 PM   #18
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I don't want to cut corners I am just looking to not break the bank. The kit I was looking at is

Jeep JK Wrangler Suspension Lift

I appreciate all the info and help. I got my jeep last month and trying to do research to make sure I get what I want and will not cause me more problems late down the road.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:20 PM   #19
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A lot of folks do just what you're talking about, but without adjustable ca's you can't adjust caster/pinion, and you're front ds is at a very severe angle.

It's not a matter of if, but when.
Agreed. Your shaft is turning at to steep of an angle for the long run and the more you continue to wheel it this way without at least front LCA and rear UCA you will break the seal before you know it. Once this happens
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:40 PM   #20
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The caster is adjustable with the stock control arms using the cam bolts that are included with many lift kits.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf

Also, might wanna look at one of the lifts kjeeper mentioned. The RC has a tendency to sag, and I don't think it comes with everything you'd need to do the lift properly. Just what I've heard.

The lift is one place you definitely DON'T wanna cut corners. It can, and often will, cost you a lot more $$ down the road if you go half-assed on it (whether intentionally, or not).

All that said, it's still your choice. It's your Jeep. You want a 3.5" lift, go for it. But I'd read through the forum for awhile before you make that decision. There are many folks here who came in thinking just like you, and have since changed their minds, and most of them are happier (and better off financially) because of it.

My 2 cents.
RK (Rock Krawler)

Not RC.... Rough Country << sagging issues.

Disregard ^^ op was looking at RC.
I thought you were responding to my post.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:46 PM   #22
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The caster is adjustable with the stock control arms using the cam bolts that are included with many lift kits.
But he will not be able to adjust them enough to restore the correct angles not to mention, he cannot adjust pinion. The stock arms are not a good idea with 3.5" or higher lifts.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ncbmx64 View Post
I don't want to cut corners I am just looking to not break the bank. The kit I was looking at is

Jeep JK Wrangler Suspension Lift

I appreciate all the info and help. I got my jeep last month and trying to do research to make sure I get what I want and will not cause me more problems late down the road.
Just looked it over, and here are some potential problems I see. The control arms are not adjustable, so there's no way to correct your caster / pinion which, as stated before, will make your handling feel flighty and / or cause unnecessary wear on your Jeep's other parts. The kit also lacks adjustable track bars, which for me, anyway, would be a necessity for a lift that big.

Then there was this part, in kinda small print below the stuff included in the kit:

• 2012 models require exhaust modification to clear front driveshaft.

Followed a little later by this:

On Automatic equipped vehicles; due to use of an oversize driveshaft from the factory and inadequate factory clearance it may be possible for the front driveshaft to come in contact with the automatic transmission pan tearing the factory boot and rubbing on the shaft. Generally this occurs during heavy articulation when front sway bar links are disconnected and longer shocks are installed. If this is found to occur, the proper procedure would be to replace the oversize factory shaft with an aftermarket smaller diameter shaft to increase clearance between the transmission and front driveshaft. Rough Country does offer this driveshaft if needed.

I tried looking up how long their N2.0 Series shocks are, and couldn't find anything. But for a 3.5" lift, I guarantee they're at least 27.5" Hence, you WILL need a new front ds. You can buy this and wheel your Jeep till the boot on your stock ds tears and THEN buy a new ds; or you can buy the new ds when you buy the kit.

In my judgment, this kit's gonna cost you a lot more $$ down the road.

Again, though, it's your decision.


One thing I should add: Saving $$ on your lift means only that you've bought a cheap lift. But the Jeep will not be denied. It'll take the money you saved outta your wallet, sure as a shady pickpocket, one way or the other.

Might as well do it right the first time.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:12 PM   #24
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But he will not be able to adjust them enough to restore the correct angles not to mention, he cannot adjust pinion. The stock arms are not a good idea with 3.5" or higher lifts.
You will never get it back to stock but you don't want the stock angle with the 3.5 lift. I don't know what you mean by not being able to adjust the pinion.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:29 PM   #25
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You will never get it back to stock but you don't want the stock angle with the 3.5 lift. I don't know what you mean by not being able to adjust the pinion.
I did not mention returning the caster angle to stock. Everything else you just stated is in agreeance with what I said.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:44 PM   #26
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:26 PM   #27
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A lot of folks do just what you're talking about, but without adjustable ca's you can't adjust caster/pinion, and you're front ds is at a very severe angle.

It's not a matter of if, but when.

Personally, I'd rather wheel not having to wonder when I'm gonna have to walk out.

I will take a pic of my front DS to show that the pinion is not at a severe angle. The JK arms are more of a mid arm when compared to TJ's. And I did not use the cam bolts on the lowers, as my diff is within 1 or 2 degrees of pointing at the T-case. I have no steering issues at all. Suspension is a bit stiffer, but tracks down the road as true as the non-lifted '11 we have.

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Old 12-15-2011, 08:58 PM   #28
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I will take a pic of my front DS to show that the pinion is not at a severe angle. The JK arms are more of a mid arm when compared to TJ's. And I did not use the cam bolts on the lowers, as my diff is within 1 or 2 degrees of pointing at the T-case. I have no steering issues at all. Suspension is a bit stiffer, but tracks down the road as true as the non-lifted '11 we have.

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Old 01-08-2012, 04:03 PM   #29
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I have been looking at this kit also for my 07 JKU Rubicon. It comes with new front lower control arms. I don't know if they are longer than the stock ones, but there has to be some reason that they included them.

I will be lifting my Rubi before Memorial Day weekend (hopefully) so I have a lot of time to decide on a lift. Cost is more of an issue than function, although it has to function well off-road.

I really just want to lift it and then save for tires and not have to buy a new drive shaft also. Are new driveshafts necessary for all JKUs? or are Rubicons exempt from this?
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:03 AM   #30
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Rubicons are not exempt on this.. for the JKU if you go over 3in you will if not right away then soon enough need a new driveshaft. Stick with a 2.5in lift so you are in the clear on the drive shaft. 2.5 inches on your JKU will let you run up to 35's

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