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Old 05-08-2011, 10:39 PM   #1
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Re-Gear Questions

Looking at having my Jeep re-geared.

What is the difference between "standard" gears - ie- 5.13 and "Yukon" gears 5.13?

Where is the least expensive place to order gear sets at?

Anyone know any good shops in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area?

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Old 05-08-2011, 11:29 PM   #2
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It has been said that all gear sets are made at the same place - it does seem to be some kind of a “secret”. The shop that did my gears said he had the best luck installing Yukon Gears - easiest to install, no noise after install. He said he tried Superior, but did not have the same results. He also said the if I wanted to have him do the install he had to order all of the parts - which was fine with me. He also said that even though my differential was relatively new he always installs the Master Install kit along with the gears - again I wanted the same thing.

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Old 05-09-2011, 09:21 AM   #3
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I'm with joe-YUKON gears are just about the best and are made/shop honed, before release and have very strict warranty requirements-thats why they're more expensive--you have to use all new bearings,washers/shims and follow their tolerance requirements-

Doesn't mean the Superior/USA gears aren't as good, but

--------------------I choose YUKON------------

The cost will depend on where you are, how big the shop is/ how "special" the shop is and what their hourly rate is--it varies TREMENDOUSLY !!

Good luck-

Don't try it yourself-especially with the 4.88/5,13/5.38 gears

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Old 05-09-2011, 09:56 AM   #4
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I was told Yukon would be quiet like factory while the others wouldn't. Said the others were quality as far as holding up but noisy and I wouldn't like them.
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:01 AM   #5
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Yea, thats also the difference, between the new 4wds and the oldones-


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Originally Posted by rics1997 View Post
I was told Yukon would be quiet like factory while the others wouldn't. Said the others were quality as far as holding up but noisy and I wouldn't like them.
Both diffs operate ALL the TIME now and my YUKONS, still on "breakin" are whisper quiet, I think joes are also quiet after a bunch of miles--

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Old 05-13-2011, 11:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
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...I think joes are also quiet after a bunch of miles--
Sorry been away for a while - yeah, still quiet after 10k miles.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:17 AM   #7
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Good to hear from you joe-


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Originally Posted by joe002 View Post
Sorry been away for a while - yeah, still quiet after 10k miles.
Also, my pinion case avg temp, now is running about a quiet-150° !!

I replaced the breakin oil, with Valvoline 75w-140 and I had run the last 10 miles of breakin in 4wd-4hi/4lo--

Everythings COPASETIC !!

Chao

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Old 05-13-2011, 11:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
...Also, my pinion case avg temp, now is running about a quiet-150° !!

I replaced the breakin oil, with Valvoline 75w-140 and I had run the last 10 miles of breakin in 4wd-4hi/4lo--

Everythings COPASETIC !!...
Cool, it looks like you got through the break-in period well! How black was your break-in oil? My rear was really black, the front not at much. When are you going the try out your trailer?
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:25 AM   #9
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:29 AM   #10
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Heh Heh, my breakin oil was kinda dark gray and the front, even after some light hills in 4lo (thats a trip) was still pretty clear-


Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002 View Post
Cool, it looks like you got through the break-in period well! How black was your break-in oil? My rear was really black, the front not at much. When are you going the try out your trailer?
I'm gonna do some hiwy runs Monday, with the trailer and check diff temps-then probably tuesday/Wed, I'll do some off road/hill climbs with the trailer-

I'll try to take some videos to show the angle of the dangle/exhaust sound and RPM/speed-should be interesting !!

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Old 05-13-2011, 11:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
...my breakin oil was kinda dark gray...
I just went back and looked, and dark gray is a better description...



Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
...I'm gonna do some hiwy runs Monday, with the trailer and check diff temps-then probably tuesday/Wed, I'll do some off road/hill climbs with the trailer-

I'll try to take some videos to show the angle of the dangle/exhaust sound and RPM/speed-should be interesting !!

Sounds good. I seem to remember that the first time you haul the trailer you are supposed to pull it for a short period and let the gears cool then go ahead.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:55 AM   #12
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My break in came at a good time. I'm having my gear oil changed at 2pm today. I bought a new trailer a few weeks back and they suppose to have it ready for pick up Monday or Tuesday. Can't wait to see how it handles the new 7X12 trailer

Have to say that I love the gears and have got used to the higher rpm's now at higher speeds. Took over the mountain yesterday to look at a close off road park. It took a lot not to try out the park while I was there. But it handled to steep curvy road real well. Might in the long run even wish I went to 5.13 instead of 4.88. We will see the first time I pull my trailer to the camp site.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
I'm with joe-YUKON gears are just about the best and are made/shop honed, before release and have very strict warranty requirements-thats why they're more expensive--you have to use all new bearings,washers/shims and follow their tolerance requirements-

Doesn't mean the Superior/USA gears aren't as good, but

--------------------I choose YUKON------------

The cost will depend on where you are, how big the shop is/ how "special" the shop is and what their hourly rate is--it varies TREMENDOUSLY !!

Good luck-

Don't try it yourself-especially with the 4.88/5,13/5.38 gears

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My local shop who I put a lot of trust in because I have seen their work says USA gears are great. I have talked to people he has re geared and they have no noise issues. I plan on running those when I do my swap. They are made by the same original shop as Yukons but arent double lapped, so no noise warranty. From what I have read/heard it comes down to install, if you use someone who takes their time and knows what they are doing you wont have noise either way.
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:10 PM   #14
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Here's another teaser-

I just drove 30 miles to PATRICK, Nv to the shop that did my re-gear (Off-Road-Innovations) (ORI) and did some talking and dropped of a case of BL for the mechanic-

The manager had just recently put in 5.38 YUKONS in his Grand Cheeroke and was happy-I was happy and these guys are, top drawer-they go to all the OR races and support the vehicles entered- !!


Anyway check this out, after driving 30 miles at 60 mph, with O/D SOLID and no downshifting-



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Old 05-14-2011, 08:07 AM   #15
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Here's another little teaser and joe002, may be able to gps this, but

In 4lo, at 5mph the rpm is--------3900-"DAMN", talk about a crawler--

It's ok 2nd/3rd-make it cruisable-

Heh Heh, the manager at ORI (great people) tells me that with his 5.38s (GC) with 7spd auto--and while in 4lo, open door, get out, goto bathroom and get back in while leaving his GC IN GEAR !!()

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Old 05-14-2011, 08:59 AM   #16
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The local shop that I trust recommend getting the USA Standard gears. He said that they have had better luck setting the pinion depth with USA over Yukon and that the USA is cheaper but without the "no noise" guarantee. However he said that he has heard no complaints of noise and he hasn't heard any. He said that he definitely wouldn't stop me from getting Yukons but he wouldn't be pushing the USA unless he ran them and trusted them himself. I have had no issues so far and am ~100mi away from finishing the break in period.

When I change my different fluid in ~100mi, what kind of sealant and gear lube do you guys recommend for the TJ D30 front and D44 rear w/factory LSD?
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:07 AM   #17
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I've heard good things about the USA gears also, but


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The local shop that I trust recommend getting the USA Standard gears. He said that they have had better luck setting the pinion depth with USA over Yukon and that the USA is cheaper but without the "no noise" guarantee. However he said that he has heard no complaints of noise and he hasn't heard any. He said that he definitely wouldn't stop me from getting Yukons but he wouldn't be pushing the USA unless he ran them and trusted them himself. I have had no issues so far and am ~100mi away from finishing the break in period.

When I change my different fluid in ~100mi, what kind of sealant and gear lube do you guys recommend for the TJ D30 front and D44 rear w/factory LSD?
My shop recommends Valvoline synthetic and after my Breakin, I put in Valvoline 75w-140 syn--this is what my shop (ORI) uses and recommends-no sealer and no additive after the breakin !!

Yukon warranty is valid ONLY if you use top name lube SYNTHETIC-ie--Valvoline/Amsoil/purple stuff !!

Good luck

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Old 05-14-2011, 10:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
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I've heard good things about the USA gears also, but

My shop recommends Valvoline synthetic and after my Breakin, I put in Valvoline 75w-140 syn--this is what my shop (ORI) uses and recommends-no sealer and no additive after the breakin !!

Yukon warranty is valid ONLY if you use top name lube SYNTHETIC-ie--Valvoline/Amsoil/purple stuff !!

Good luck

JIMBO
I know I need something special for the limited slip, which kind should I use for the rear. Also by sealant I meant around the diff cover. Any specific brand of RTV that's the best? Finally about how many quarts of gear lube will I need to do both diffs?

Man I was going to go to ORI for my regear, but they quoted me $1600. About $400 steeper than how I hot it done locally.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:33 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Here's another little teaser and joe002, may be able to gps this, but

In 4lo, at 5mph the rpm is--------3900-"DAMN", talk about a crawler--

It's ok 2nd/3rd-make it cruisable...
I will have to verify my spreadsheet when I take the Jeep out, but with my 35s it says I'm at 3300 in 4lo, 1st, 5 MPH. With 32s it says about 3600. I verified O/D On and in the High range, but never verified the Low range.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:33 AM   #20
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I don't know about the other diff. lubes, but


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I know I need something special for the limited slip, which kind should I use for the rear. Also by sealant I meant around the diff cover. Any specific brand of RTV that's the best? Finally about how many quarts of gear lube will I need to do both diffs?

Man I was going to go to ORI for my regear, but they quoted me $1600. About $400 steeper than how I hot it done locally.


The Valvoline 75w-140, meets all the GL-5 requirements and also has the "limited slip" diff-additive already, but

If you don't use the Valvoline, check the Amsoil and purple and see if they are compliant with the "limited slip"--

A suggestion, my pinion case temps are now avg 150°, so the breakin was successiful and when you get ready to change out the lube, drive somewhere for 15 minutes and then do your swap--that makes sure the "OLD" lube is nice and hot/flows good--

Oh, I don't use RTV, I use "Lubelocker" gaskets, they can be used a bunch of times !!

Good luck

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Old 05-14-2011, 10:50 AM   #21
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Quote:
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...When I change my different fluid in ~100mi, what kind of sealant and gear lube do you guys recommend for the TJ D30 front and D44 rear w/factory LSD?
What weight oil does Chrysler recommend for the TJ axles?

If you aren’t towing then for our JKs Chrysler recommends an APL GL-5 oil with 80w90 F/R and 80w90 front and 75w140 rear if you tow. Jim does tow so he uses 75w140 F/R. I don’t tow so I use 75w90 F/R. Valvoline Synthetic 75w90 says it meets or exceeds API GL-5, and API MT-1, and is approved for performance level SAE J2360. Valvoline says that the addition of a supplemental friction modifier (Ford M2C-118-A, Chrysler MS-5630, or GM 1052358) is not required.

The JK diffs have a drain plug, so I don’t take the cover off for each refill, but I did put on Riddler covers and used their sealer - Permatex Ultra Black OEM Hi-Temp RTV Silicone.
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:03 PM   #22
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Good day all!

I sell Sierra Gear R&Ps. I have run these my self and have sold numerous sets. They are made in Korea, where all the major manufactures of quality sets are getting them from. They have a two year warranty, 8620 heat treated alloy, extra lapping to run quiet.

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Old 05-14-2011, 04:41 PM   #23
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What would be the best set of gears to get for a Auto JKU running 35's?

JKU is a DD with some highway driving. Off-road use is mostly trails/mud etc, no rocks.

4.88's or 5.13's??
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:56 PM   #24
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5.13's. I did 4.88 with 285/70/17 which are a little under 33's and they are great so far. 35's will for sure need 5.13's though
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:19 PM   #25
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Absolutely 5.13s. You will not like putting out the money and still being under geared with 4.88s.

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Old 05-14-2011, 05:38 PM   #26
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Thats what I was assuming...thank you for the quick replies!

5.13's it is!
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:52 PM   #27
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It does drop down in a manual tranny though....

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Old 05-14-2011, 11:00 PM   #28
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It does drop down in a manual tranny though...
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:50 AM   #29
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Up? Down? It's like the fret board on a guitar.

Anways...

The 'upper' end of 'acceptable' (the green band in the chart) for 35's on an automatic is 5.38. ... RPM @ 70mph is 2495

For a manual, it's the same upper end on the green band calls for 4.56. ... RPM @ 70mph is 2575

It seems to me that the chart's color band allows you choose based on your application (rock crawling, trails, elevation, etc).

Being in Michigan where we are somewhat flat in terms of elevation and not alot to do in terms of rocks, I would be inclined to base my regearing off of the green band.

However, if I lived in Utah or didn't plan to use the jeep at a DD...well, you get the idea.

When the 3.6L comes out this summer, I wonder how much this chart will change.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:46 AM   #30
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The 3.6L motor won't make any difference. It is the new transmission that may make the chart change. If they use the same 6 speed manual then the chart for it will be the same but we know the automatic is going to a 5 speed. The chart above matches the transmissions final gearing in O/D at 70 mph. If the final ratio remains the same then the chart will remain the same. I sort of doubt it will though.

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