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Old 08-16-2012, 12:49 AM   #1
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Rear ds on 2dr jk

Can you use adjustable upper and lower control arms on the rear to get more life out of stock ds at 3 inches of lift!

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Old 08-16-2012, 12:55 AM   #2
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Would adding a little length like half inch or so to the length of the rear to move the rear axle more toward the rear end of the jeep and adj the acle roll to where the shaft is more set up like a aftermarket one help take some of the stress off the stock axle and maybe get a couple thousand more miles out of it before it goes.

Then I'll have everything ready for the Double Cardon shaft and then haut adj for it

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Old 08-16-2012, 05:34 AM   #3
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Well, i was under the assumption yes.
But if you think about it. Uppers will lessen the angle at the diff but not the TC. That's the whole purpose of a double cardon style u-joint with a new DS.
What Pluke said made sense.
My thoughts uppers will at least take some of the angle off the TC Zeppa joint.

Uppers and lowers would push the whole axle back. Im seeing some people doing this without replacing the DS, still
Makes little sense to me

I have uppers on order so will see. I will post pics after install.

Pretty sure I'm going to need a rear DS as well. But keep in mind, I am now almost 4" with the new springs. My front shaft is at a steep angle and not going to last that much longer.

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Old 08-16-2012, 05:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BossierCity_WranglerJK
Can you use adjustable upper and lower control arms on the rear to get more life out of stock ds at 3 inches of lift!
Ok with my experience on a 2 dr JK and three inch lift is you should have front lower control arms to throw about 6 deg castor and put on a front adjustable Trackbar
On the rear you should have spring wedges or like I have is a spring relocate bracket to angle your coils forward
You should have some sort of rear Trackbar drop bracket as well
As for rear control arms I was fine with just rear uppers to help realign my angle. If your thinking of going 8 arm, some companies require longer rear uppers control arms if you do both rear upper and lower so you should decide before just buying uppers because they will be 1 inch shorter than the 8 arm setup.
My rear driveshaft started to fail or make noise after 10,000 miles before I replaced it with a double cardian.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopro269

Ok with my experience on a 2 dr JK and three inch lift is you should have front lower control arms to throw about 6 deg castor and put on a front adjustable Trackbar
On the rear you should have spring wedges or like I have is a spring relocate bracket to angle your coils forward
You should have some sort of rear Trackbar drop bracket as well
As for rear control arms I was fine with just rear uppers to help realign my angle. If your thinking of going 8 arm, some companies require longer rear uppers control arms if you do both rear upper and lower so you should decide before just buying uppers because they will be 1 inch shorter than the 8 arm setup.
My rear driveshaft started to fail or make noise after 10,000 miles before I replaced it with a double cardian.
1" shorter than the 8 arm setup

Though all arms are the same and adjustable. Short arm is a short arm ?

Whole point of doing both is to get the wheel base back.

I just ordered RK uppers and was asked if I wanted lowers to. I should be fine with just uppers for the time being.
When that time comes, the uppers will be longer but shorter than the lowers to align for pinion and wheelbase.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:32 AM   #6
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okkk........

if you get lower rear and upper rear and move the axle back you will make the arms flatter to the ground and that will relieve some of the stress on that joint. rear uppers alone won't help reduce the angle at the xer case.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10

1" shorter than the 8 arm setup

Though all arms are the same and adjustable. Short arm is a short arm ?

Whole point of doing both is to get the wheel base back.

I just ordered RK uppers and was asked if I wanted lowers to. I should be fine with just uppers for the time being.
When that time comes, the uppers will be longer but shorter than the lowers to align for pinion and wheelbase.
I meant 1 inch longer damn fat fingers typing this AM
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2
okkk........

if you get lower rear and upper rear and move the axle back you will make the arms flatter to the ground and that will relieve some of the stress on that joint. rear uppers alone won't help reduce the angle at the xer case.
Just don't get to crazy pushing the axle back to far
The company I used has different lengths shortarms
I know this for a fact and you will open up a can of worms
If the manufacter don't use different arm lengths then the most I would move the lower rear Control arm is 1 inch, if you move it much more than that there's things you'll have to change
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopro269 View Post
Just don't get to crazy pushing the axle back to far
The company I used has different lengths shortarms
I know this for a fact and you will open up a can of worms
If the manufacter don't use different arm lengths then the most I would move the lower rear Control arm is 1 inch, if you move it much more than that there's things you'll have to change
yeah, like drilling new holes for the sway bar links, right? i haven't even thrown on my rear lowers or front uppers yet. but i'm looking to press out with the short arm atleast 2" which i know is going to be an issue with some of the things you have in mind. . .
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2

yeah, like drilling new holes for the sway bar links, right? i haven't even thrown on my rear lowers or front uppers yet. but i'm looking to press out with the short arm atleast 2" which i know is going to be an issue with some of the things you have in mind. . .
Also rear Trackbar bracket relocate on frame, cutting it off and welding a new one farther back
Upper spring perch relocates when you push past the 2 inch mark moving backwards
Rear Driveshaft lengthening "again"
Bumpstop upper relocates
Upper rear shock relocating
I've had some experience I guess !!! Lol
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopro269

Just don't get to crazy pushing the axle back to far
The company I used has different lengths shortarms
I know this for a fact and you will open up a can of worms
If the manufacter don't use different arm lengths then the most I would move the lower rear Control arm is 1 inch, if you move it much more than that there's things you'll have to change
Oh ok..

What company btw?
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2
okkk........

if you get lower rear and upper rear and move the axle back you will make the arms flatter to the ground and that will relieve some of the stress on that joint. rear uppers alone won't help reduce the angle at the xer case.
That's what I said you said
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopro269

Also rear Trackbar bracket relocate on frame, cutting it off and welding a new one farther back
Upper spring perch relocates when you push past the 2 inch mark moving backwards
Rear Driveshaft lengthening "again"
Bumpstop upper relocates
Upper rear shock relocating
I've had some experience I guess !!! Lol
Streeeetch
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:47 AM   #14
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So I am assuming that uppers will help just the ds angle at the diff. so moving the acle back 1/2 - 1 inch want do anything to hell the angle at the tcase
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BossierCity_WranglerJK
So I am assuming that uppers will help just the ds angle at the diff. so moving the acle back 1/2 - 1 inch want do anything to hell the angle at the tcase
Moving it back would more.

This is why a JKU can get away with more height in the back.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10

Oh ok..

What company btw?
The company called do-it-yourself short arm for now and decide on a LongArm stretch later kit
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10

Moving it back would more.

This is why a JKU can get away with more height in the back.
Yeah a two door I would say try to stick 3 inch or under on a short-arm kit
LongArm is good until you get into above 5 inch
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2
okkk........

if you get lower rear and upper rear and move the axle back you will make the arms flatter to the ground and that will relieve some of the stress on that joint. rear uppers alone won't help reduce the angle at the xer case.
So me moving it back about a inch will take some stress off at the tcase on the rear and I can use the upper to relieve the zippy joint by transfer
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10

Moving it back would more.

This is why a JKU can get away with more height in the back.
So that extra inch I push it back might help it last a little longer then, when it starts to leak grease smash the order on new rear ds and front

I know for the rear I need upper control arms! Do I need anything for the front?
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BossierCity_WranglerJK

So that extra inch I push it back might help it last a little longer then, when it starts to leak grease smash the order on new rear ds and front

I know for the rear I need upper control arms! Do I need anything for the front?
I think when you go 3 inches or more a set of lower controls are great so you can set your castor around 6 degrees and a front adjustable Trackbar
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopro269

I think when you go 3 inches or more a set of lower controls are great so you can set your castor around 6 degrees and a front adjustable Trackbar
I am getting a front adj trac bar, rear uppers, and front lowers

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