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Old 01-05-2012, 08:33 AM   #1
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Exclamation regearing 3.73 auto 4 door jk sahara r18

hi,

i am looking to regear my jeep since i read a lot of good things on it on this forum. my questions are

1) does it worth regearing if i keep the stock wheels and tires ?

2) what gearing ratio should i use knowing 1) ?

thanks !

pat

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Old 01-05-2012, 08:51 AM   #2
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What year is your jeep. If it is prior to a 12 model like my 11 sahara 2 door I would go 5.13 and that will work great with stock tires and even a little bigger also. That is about as low as you can go in a Dana 30, but right where you need to be even with stock tires. What year is your rig anyway? It's probably not a 12, as a 12 with 3.73 and stock tires would be ok and you wouldn't be thinking regear!

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Old 01-05-2012, 08:55 AM   #3
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Need to know year and whether you have an auto or manual transmission.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:12 AM   #4
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refer here
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #5
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my rig is a 2011. i want the 2012 so bad but cant afford the trading cost.. so i was looking to regear to obtain decent highway behaviour

also will regearing affect the shift points and addressthe poor eco mod downshifting
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:08 AM   #6
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also does regearing have a similar effect as driving with o/d off ?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickp View Post
so i was looking to regear to obtain decent highway behaviour
A regear will do that.

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Originally Posted by patrickp View Post
also will regearing affect the shift points and addressthe poor eco mod downshifting
You'll also want to get an AEV ProCal to "tell" the jeep about your new gears. That will adjust the shift points.

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also does regearing have a similar effect as driving with o/d off ?
Sort of. But you'll regear in such a way (by, for example, getting 5.13s) that you'd never be able to "duplicate" by merely turning off the OD.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:31 AM   #8
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refer here
Any chance that chart is available for the 12 with the 3.6?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #9
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Any chance that chart is available for the 12 with the 3.6?
Quite possibly. Indeed, it could be saved in a folder on my computer's desktop . . . .
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #10
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:39 AM   #11
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Thanks for the info
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:54 AM   #12
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thanks for all the info !!! i might regear my auto to 5.13 . .. last question .... will regearing void the tranny warranty ?
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #13
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thanks for all the info !!! i might regear my auto to 5.13 . .. last question .... will regearing void the tranny warranty ?
Nothing but odometer tampering really "voids" any part of your warranty, the issue is whether your warranty would "cover" a given transmission or other problem that arises after the regearing.

That's going to be a mixed factual question (what happened and what went wrong) and legal question (how your warranty coverage applies). So really all anyone can do up front is form educated opinions.

For a discussion of that with regard to regearing, check here: (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/reg...ty-127442.html)
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:28 AM   #14
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Am I correct that the charts above only apply to 2WD or 4WD-HI? For example I'm in the yellow with a 2012 JKUR with 35s and 3.73 gears. The chart's "mild trail use at low elevation" suggestion wouldn't apply when I throw my Rubi into 4WD-LO---dropping my gearing by a factor of four, right?
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:37 AM   #15
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Am I correct that the charts above only apply to 2WD or 4WD-HI? For example I'm in the yellow with a 2012 JKUR with 35s and 3.73 gears. The chart's "mild trail use at low elevation" suggestion wouldn't apply when I throw my Rubi into 4WD-LO---dropping my gearing by a factor of four, right?
The numbers show the RPMs at (I believe) 65 mph. That would of course be in 2wd on the highway or other high speed roadway.

The color coding provides guidance to help you choose gear ratios based on your use of the Jeep--i.e., under performing gearing, moderate gearing, and high performance gearing.

However, the truth of the matter is that for the 3.8 engine (which would obviously have different numbers in the RPM calculations) you would always want to regear yourself into the high performance area. The 3.6 has a more power and more room for error, so I could see rationalizing deliberately gearing yourself into the moderate area.

That said, if I was going to bother regearing either the 3.8 or the 3.6, I'd put it in the high performance zone.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:58 PM   #16
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The numbers show the RPMs at (I believe) 65 mph. That would of course be in 2wd on the highway or other high speed roadway.

The color coding provides guidance to help you choose gear ratios based on your use of the Jeep--i.e., under performing gearing, moderate gearing, and high performance gearing.

However, the truth of the matter is that for the 3.8 engine (which would obviously have different numbers in the RPM calculations) you would always want to regear yourself into the high performance area. The 3.6 has a more power and more room for error, so I could see rationalizing deliberately gearing yourself into the moderate area.

That said, if I was going to bother regearing either the 3.8 or the 3.6, I'd put it in the high performance zone.
Right (except the RPM numbers are for 70MPH, but you got the right idea). All makes sense. I just don't want to spend $2K or whatever unless I absolutely need to do so. My logic may be off, but the characterization of the yellow for my situation---"mild trail use at low elevation"--seems to be an overstatement or oversimplification.

IMO, unless I'm missing something, if the chart was to have anything to do with operating in low range at any elevation (which is the mode in which you always do rock crawling), it, at minimum would need to have different color codes for Rubis versus non-Rubis--if I am correct that the non-Rubi's 4WL transfer case drops the ratio only by a factor of 2.72.

Also, since the difference in 3.73 to 4.10 gears is 9.9%, another way to look at it, if I am correct, is that my 3.73 dropping into low range would operate the same as a Jeep with the same tires and 4.10 rear gears that had a 3.64:1 4WL transfer case gear ratio. (4.10/3.73 = 0.91 = 4.0/3.64). That's still much better than most vehicles, including the Saharas and Sports, which have a 2.72:1 4WL ratio. The FJ only has a 2.57:1 ratio.

Also, I can't find the numbers, but didn't the new 5-speed auto tranny lower the first-gear ratio? If so, that would make a difference in the off-roading gearing, as you're mainly worried about being low enough in first gear I think.

Another way to look at it is that the crawl ratio for a Rubi in 4WL with 4.10 rear gears and the auto tranny is 58.8:1 (if my calculations are right). So, for A Rubi with 3.73 gears, it still is a very-low 53.6:1, which ought to be adequate for just about anything I could do anyway. By comparison, the FJ has a crawl ratio of 33.8:1 (with auto tranny), and has a less-powerful engine.

I was really worried when I put my 35s on, that my Jeep would be sluggish, but it just ain't. I think maybe that the 4.10s and the 32s maybe are just a little too low for me. For example, when I first started driving my Jeep with the 3.73 gears and stock tires, I would, unintentionally spin my tires from a start when trying to merge onto a highway with fast traffic near my house, which caused the traction control to kick in. Now, with the 35s, that never happens, essentially giving me better traction on the street from the start. It might be partly because the new tires grip better, but I think it's mostly because of the higher "gearing" with the 35s. If I went to 4.10s or even lower, I might be back to spinning my tires when I barely hit the Pentastar.

Anyway, others' valid preferences could be far off from mine, but my '12 JKUR with 3.73 gears and 35" tires seems about perfect for city and highway driving. And I can't imagine the 53.6:1 crawl ratio will let me down with that set-up. I'll find out next week after I get my replacement drive shaft put on and head out to the hills.

Anyone feel free to correct me, if, as is possible, I'm missing something important.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:43 PM   #17
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Also, is the chart based of an avg? because my stock tires, 29" im running approximately 2700 rpms at 70 mph.. which puts me in the 4.10 gear range, but i have a 3.73 gear
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:49 PM   #18
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Also, is the chart based of an avg? because my stock tires, 29" im running approximately 2700 rpms at 70 mph.. which puts me in the 4.10 gear range, but i have a 3.73 gear
Chart might be for 65 mph . . . I don't have a 2012, so I can't be sure. Your speedo could also be off. And of course make sure you're looking at the right trans.
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:42 PM   #19
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Also, is the chart based of an avg? because my stock tires, 29" im running approximately 2700 rpms at 70 mph.. which puts me in the 4.10 gear range, but i have a 3.73 gear
That's curious. Do you have auto or manual?

The 2012 chart seems to be a 2012 analog to the pre-2012 chart (post # 4), which specifically says "70 MPH Range." The 2012 chart seems to hit me (35s, auto, & 3.73) right on the money at 70 mph. It says 2,081 RPM. My tachometer reads roughly 2,100 (it's just a needle) when my speedometer says 64-65 mph (but my tires are 10% larger, so I'm really going about 70 mph). So, I think it's a 70 mph standard.

I'm not trying to be critical of the charts, but it is based on 6th-gear manual and 5th-gear auto gear ratios at 70 mph.

It has nothing to do with the fact that, in 6th-gear, the manual is higher than the auto in 5th-gear, but in 1st-gear, the manual is (to the contrary) lower than the auto; or that the Sahara/Sport have 2.73:1 4WL gearing; while the Rubi has 4:1 4WL gearing.

In short, I think the chart can give you some idea of what's good for fast highway speeds. (For me, with the 285 HP, my 3.73 at appx. 2,081 rpm does great, and can downshift to 4th when necessary, but rarely needs to).

In any event, to really distiniguish between capabilities to do "mild trail use at low elevation" and "rock crawling at higher elevation" (claimed in chart at post #4), I think you'd need a chart that actually looked at actual crawl ratios in 4WL.

Can a 285 HP engine with a crawl ratio of 54:1 do rock crawling at 12,000 ft above see level. I have done so with less than that. But, regardless, the chart does not really address that even though it says it does.

Just my $0.02.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:14 AM   #20
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Here is an updated chart that I found for the 2012. It has a legend on it to help identify the type of driving that you want to do. The tire size listed in the chart is the actual tire diameter, not the advertised diameter that is stamped on the side of the tire. I have 35x12.50R17 tires, but they measure 34" in diameter mounted on the Jeep. For people that don't have their tach running close to the chart numbers, consider your actual tire diameter. With my tires and 4.10 gears, my tach is running pretty close to the chart at 70 mph.

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Old 01-10-2012, 11:40 AM   #21
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I have an auto.. i usedmy gps and on my speedo it says 70 as well as my gps.. im clearly running 200 more rpms more than that chart posted.. thats going to drive me crazy lol

if the chart was for 65mph then the numbers would be dead on for me..
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:45 AM   #22
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I have an auto.. i usedmy gps and on my speedo it says 70 as well as my gps.. im clearly running 200 more rpms more than that chart posted.. thats going to drive me crazy lol

if the chart was for 65mph then the numbers would be dead on for me..
That chart is for 2012s. Your profile says you have a 2011. You should be using this chart.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:46 AM   #23
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no i have a 2012. 3.6 auto. and i see where it says 2012 in my profile.. where are u seeing 2011? and with the 2011 chart i should be running a 4.88 which would be way off. my actual messurement of the tires are 29.4 "
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:55 AM   #24
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no i have a 2012. 3.6.. and i see wher it says 2012 in my profile.. where are u seeing 2011?
When I click on "Jeep Profile" under your post count, I see a pic of your Jeep and the text "2011."

Regardless, that's certainly an interesting variance with your tachometer. The 3.8 chart is dead on for my Jeep at 70 mph. I have no idea whether this 2012 chart has proven to be as accurate.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:59 AM   #25
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Set it to 2012, but doesnt look like it wants to take effect..
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:18 PM   #26
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I am regearing my 2011 JKU , automatic this winter. I have spoken to the people at my 4x4 shop as well as several other mechanics. they suggested time and time again to go with 4.88s do to the fact that I will have nothing but problems with the dana 30 front axle. I was told that 5.13s will have less tooth contact there for when under extreme loads as in offroading they tend to break. chart or no chart im going with experiance. just my two cents. The same thing was said as far as the lockers I am going to install a true locker would be to much for the 30, so its a tru trac for the front 30 and a arb air for the 44 in the rear.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:35 PM   #27
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I am regearing my 2011 JKU , automatic this winter. I have spoken to the people at my 4x4 shop as well as several other mechanics. they suggested time and time again to go with 4.88s do to the fact that I will have nothing but problems with the dana 30 front axle. I was told that 5.13s will have less tooth contact there for when under extreme loads as in offroading they tend to break. chart or no chart im going with experiance. just my two cents.
By that logic, you should stay with your 3.73s.

But yes, my understanding is that the pinion gets smaller and smaller the higher the number goes. That said, I doubt very much you will have "nothing but problems" with 5.13s--it's a very popular size. Particularly over on that "other forum" where I think regearing is more popular. You'll find dozens and dozens of folks running 5.13s with D30 fronts and having no problems. And many wheel their jeeps pretty hard. Though it is also true that sometimes R&Ps fail.

The question I think is whether you really expect to be under "extreme loads." If I was building a trail rig with the 3.8 and the old auto trans along with 35s that I expected to spend large amounts of time crawling over rocks, I might go with 4.88s or even 4.56s simply because I'll almost always have it in 4L anyway. Since that'll rev my RPMs way up as a result of the t-case, I might as well get numerically lower gearing just to have the extra durability in my R&P for when I'm tip toeing around with wheels in the air and so on.

But for a daily driver and sometimes wheeler, I can't imagine picking 4.88s over 5.13s for an auto trans 3.8 because of the greater failure potential under "extreme loads." My jeep needs to get me to work and run around in some dirt five or six times a year--I don't do "extreme loads." How many miles are on your jeep? How many of them were earned offroad?

Be honest with yourself about how you use your vehicle. Because 4.88s on 35s with the 3.8 and the old auto trans puts you at like 2200 RPMs. Certainly an improvement over the 3.73s you have now, but you're leaving a lot of performance on the table if your jeep spends the vast majority of its time on the pavement.

For the sake of perspective: A stock manual transmission 3.8 Rubi runs about 2500 RPMs at 70 mph. In order to spin that many RPMs with 35s in an auto trans 3.8 you'd need 5.38s. In other words, you'll need to regear to 5.38s just to recreate the RPMs that come STOCK on a pre-2012 manual Rubi.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:44 PM   #28
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2200 rpm's? I was just relaying the info that was told to me by several experianced mech. and offroaders. and that 5.13s would suck on the interstate. right know im 75-80 mph at 1500-2200 rpms. so your also saying that between my 3.73s I have now and the 4.88s there will be no diffrence I find that hard to believe
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:00 PM   #29
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If you are keeping your stock tires on your 3.8L with 3:73 gearing I wouldn't switch not worth it.

If you go to 35's or bigger & much heavier tire then look at 5:13's.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:09 PM   #30
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2200 rpm's? I was just relaying the info that was told to me by several experianced mech. and offroaders. and that 5.13s would suck on the interstate. right know im 75-80 mph at 1500-2200 rpms. so your also saying that between my 3.73s I have now and the 4.88s there will be no diffrence I find that hard to believe
I cruise at 70 mph with my '08 JKUR/auto/5.38s and turn right at 2600 rpm/w avg mileage on level freeways--=17mpg !and my JKUR weighs over 5000lbs -

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