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Old 06-06-2014, 10:10 AM   #1
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Removal of doors

New to site. I have a 13 JK and want to remove the doors. Just found out it needs a T 50 Torx for removal but not sure if the doors have the "security" type Torx nut? Not sure what the difference is between the non s type and s type. Do the a type bits fit non s type ?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Don't want to buy two sets of Torx bits if not needed.
Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:16 AM   #2
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I don't remember the size, but normal Torx heads worked on the doors and everything else I've removed so far.

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Old 06-06-2014, 10:17 AM   #3
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normal torx bit. no security features.
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile Hi City View Post
New to site. I have a 13 JK and want to remove the doors. Just found out it needs a T 50 Torx for removal but not sure if the doors have the "security" type Torx nut? Not sure what the difference is between the non s type and s type. Do the a type bits fit non s type ?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Don't want to buy two sets of Torx bits if not needed.
Thanks!
The security torx will look like this:



From the factory it should have come with standard torx. They should T50 I believe. Good Luck!

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Old 06-06-2014, 10:28 AM   #5
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Thanks for the help with that.
Another question, has anyone replaced their shift know for a custom one and would you know the thread size and pitch on the shifter? Ie 3/8 24 or 10mm x 1.50. Not sure it it's metric or not and can't find a dealership that can tell me, they say they don't get access to that kind of info?! Amazing.
Anyway also trying to figure out if it twists off as it on there really right or ir it's montes a certain way that requires a tool or some other knowledge to get the factory one off.
I have a 13 rubicon jk.
Thanks for any responses!
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:42 AM   #6
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As has been said the door bolts are standard T50 Torx. A security Torx bit will fit into a standard bolt but not vice versa due to the security pin which fits into the hole in the security Torx bit.

As far as the shift knob, not sure if it's changed but on my '08 JK the dealer had to pull it off to drop my trans for a synchro recall and they told me that it might break because they have to be pulled off and they can be a real PITA. Never done it personally, but that's what I was told.
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:43 AM   #7
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T50 is correct!

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Old 06-06-2014, 11:04 AM   #8
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Yep, T50. Anyone know if a 3/8" drive socket will have enough room for removal? Or will I need a smaller head?
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:07 AM   #9
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3/8" is fine, but find a thin magnet (or tape up some paper) to protect the paint. I like using a "wobbler" when I am removing those Torxs.

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Originally Posted by mxsix View Post
Yep, T50. Anyone know if a 3/8" drive socket will have enough room for removal? Or will I need a smaller head?
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:11 AM   #10
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Another tip is to place a large refrigerator magnet (sheet style, like a calendar or business card) at the position where the socket would hit the paint while you're using the socket wrench. That way if you get over zealous and smack it back into the jeep you won't ding your paint.
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #11
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Thanks Rancho and Star!
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile Hi City View Post
Thanks for the help with that.
Another question, has anyone replaced their shift know for a custom one and would you know the thread size and pitch on the shifter? Ie 3/8 24 or 10mm x 1.50. Not sure it it's metric or not and can't find a dealership that can tell me, they say they don't get access to that kind of info?! Amazing.
Anyway also trying to figure out if it twists off as it on there really right or ir it's montes a certain way that requires a tool or some other knowledge to get the factory one off.
I have a 13 rubicon jk.
Thanks for any responses!
replaced the shifter on my 14 stick - there are no threads
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:26 AM   #13
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I use a 3/8 by hand and just put my finger between it and the paint, works fine and you can unscrew at a pretty large slant because it's not torqued very tight
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarBrite View Post
Another tip is to place a large refrigerator magnet (sheet style, like a calendar or business card) at the position where the socket would hit the paint while you're using the socket wrench. That way if you get over zealous and smack it back into the jeep you won't ding your paint.
All those rockauto magnets they send out work great for this.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
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All those rockauto magnets they send out work great for this.
LOL, that's exactly what I use too!
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:22 PM   #16
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Also - just a note - I just took all 4 of my doors off last night for the first time - the fronts popped off with no problems - but the rears wouldn't budge - ended up using a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift the door and help break the rear pins free - when they go back in I'll make sure to grease them up better so they don't stick....
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile Hi City View Post
Thanks for the help with that.
Another question, has anyone replaced their shift know for a custom one and would you know the thread size and pitch on the shifter? Ie 3/8 24 or 10mm x 1.50. Not sure it it's metric or not and can't find a dealership that can tell me, they say they don't get access to that kind of info?! Amazing.
Anyway also trying to figure out if it twists off as it on there really right or ir it's montes a certain way that requires a tool or some other knowledge to get the factory one off.
I have a 13 rubicon jk.
Thanks for any responses!
The Install Instructions for a new shift knob don't give you a ton of info on removing your old one, but take a look! Let us know how it goes!

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Old 06-06-2014, 01:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argent View Post
Also - just a note - I just took all 4 of my doors off last night for the first time - the fronts popped off with no problems - but the rears wouldn't budge - ended up using a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift the door and help break the rear pins free - when they go back in I'll make sure to grease them up better so they don't stick....
I had the same problem, white lithium grease does the trick

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