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Old 04-23-2013, 06:50 PM   #301
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Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
If I do go with the flex kit, I'll likely pop in the springs and set her on the ground just to check everything out. Worst case I can roll my changes back if anything seems amiss.
once you get a taste of the new lift, you will not roll anything back. buckle up, and we will see how fast that flex turns into an X-Factor.

Good Luck!

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Old 04-23-2013, 07:22 PM   #302
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once you get a taste of the new lift, you will not roll anything back. buckle up, and we will see how fast that flex turns into an X-Factor.

Good Luck!
Small steps Daniel-son. LOL

today was vac pump relocation day. Had relocated to under the hood when I installed my winch but recently realized that's where my spod will go. So now it's mounted above the sway bar via the EVO kit.

Very close to pulling the trigger in a rear bumper/tire carrier for the 35s. Leaning towards the rampage. Don't know about front yet.

Man, I need a raise.

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Old 07-20-2014, 12:05 AM   #303
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Here is an out take.

You can see us drop the cross member. (im not driving)

There are two factors when it comes to getting from A to B, - a)driver's wisdom, b) vehicle's capability. One can make a tank get stuck. There is no wisdom in that.

There should be a competition where a driver with a least number and magnitude of modifications able to take a vehicle from A to B wins.
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:36 AM   #304
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Had my max travel installed the other day....very impressed!

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Old 02-17-2015, 12:20 PM   #305
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I guess i should have asked this on here:

what bump stops and sizes did you use with your 2.5 x factor. I just had a 2.5 x factor installed and used the rock krawler 3" front and 3" back that their site recommended as well as the bilsteins they recommended and they almost seem like they are too long and too up travel limiting. Do you get any lower control arm rubbing when turning your steering full right when going a couple MPH? Some say add the 3/8 washers but i think a complete kit like this shouldn't rub with 315/70/17. RK says the ones they have done dont rub.
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:40 PM   #306
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I just purchased RK 2.5 max travel along with grade 8 bolts. does the front RK lowers and front RK trackbars need to be drilled out to fit the grade 8 bolts?
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:30 AM   #307
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Added 1 x 3/8" washer to each steering stop. Now it barely touches full right steer moving forward. I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have to do this. Going to get a second opinion.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:37 AM   #308
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Added 1 x 3/8" washer to each steering stop. Now it barely touches full right steer moving forward. I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have to do this. Going to get a second opinion.
How wide are your tires and what is wheel backspace? It is not a problem with the kit - it is a function of the wheels and tires you put on it. How hard are you turning? If you just are grazing the sticker off at absolute hardest lock this isn't a huge issue.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:06 AM   #309
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Originally Posted by mommymallcrawler View Post
How wide are your tires and what is wheel backspace? It is not a problem with the kit - it is a function of the wheels and tires you put on it. How hard are you turning? If you just are grazing the sticker off at absolute hardest lock this isn't a huge issue.
Note always the wheels. If ur axle is not centered, you'll rub a tire too. Had this happen on one side to me. Adjusted the trackbar to center the axle and tire rub gone.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:07 AM   #310
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I just purchased RK 2.5 max travel along with grade 8 bolts. does the front RK lowers and front RK trackbars need to be drilled out to fit the grade 8 bolts?
U don't need to drill for the grade 8 bolts.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:24 AM   #311
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Note always the wheels. If ur axle is not centered, you'll rub a tire too. Had this happen on one side to me. Adjusted the trackbar to center the axle and tire rub gone.
Makes sense.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:36 AM   #312
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Originally Posted by jasunto View Post
I guess i should have asked this on here:

what bump stops and sizes did you use with your 2.5 x factor. I just had a 2.5 x factor installed and used the rock krawler 3" front and 3" back that their site recommended as well as the bilsteins they recommended and they almost seem like they are too long and too up travel limiting. Do you get any lower control arm rubbing when turning your steering full right when going a couple MPH? Some say add the 3/8 washers but i think a complete kit like this shouldn't rub with 315/70/17. RK says the ones they have done dont rub.
If you follow the specifications we have listed under each kit on the the website as far as wheel backspacing and tire size's you should not have any rubbing. You can always adjust the steering stops as you stated or replace them with longer steering stop bolts.

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Old 02-24-2015, 08:46 AM   #313
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I just purchased RK 2.5 max travel along with grade 8 bolts. does the front RK lowers and front RK trackbars need to be drilled out to fit the grade 8 bolts?
The holes in the joints should already accept 9/16" hardware if you choose to run it. You may have to run a drill bit through the sleeves of the bushing ends because the zinc coating can build up a little and make a shouldered 9/16" bold hard to pass through. You also don't need to run larger bolts like that to ensure that you have a well put together jeep. Most of peoples problems come from not having hardware tight enough or worn out factory mechanical locking nuts that don't hold their torque anymore.

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Old 02-24-2015, 10:55 AM   #314
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thanks guys. I can't wait for it. I called RK yesterday and was told that my kit should ship early March. Hopefully I get it by March 7 since I already made an appointment for install while I go out on vacation.
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:34 AM   #315
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Originally Posted by mommymallcrawler View Post
How wide are your tires and what is wheel backspace? It is not a problem with the kit - it is a function of the wheels and tires you put on it. How hard are you turning? If you just are grazing the sticker off at absolute hardest lock this isn't a huge issue.
I did what the manufacturer and many said for wheels/tires:

17x9 wheel 4.5" backspace
315/70/17 Goodyear Duratrac

When i turn the wheel i dont slam it against the stop, i just turn it and a hair before it would stop it just rubbing and can see it on the LCA and feel as each tire bump goes over it.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:57 AM   #316
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You have to be turning awful hard in circles to go "full into" the control arm and feel "bumps". If it is just grazing the sticker off, that is nothing - but you wouldnt feel a bump. But it sounds like you are actually putting the tire into the arm if you are "feeling" it? Did you install the lift or have it done by a shop?

Are you sure the tire isnt rubbing the air dam instead? Did you trim back the plastic air dam underneath in front since that is a 12.4 wide tire? You would definitely feel the tire hitting the air dam if it wasnt trimmed.

Maybe it would be helpful if you put a picture up at full lock where you are hitting?

Did adjusting the steering stop help?
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Old 02-25-2015, 07:38 AM   #317
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I did what the manufacturer and many said for wheels/tires: 17x9 wheel 4.5" backspace 315/70/17 Goodyear Duratrac When i turn the wheel i dont slam it against the stop, i just turn it and a hair before it would stop it just rubbing and can see it on the LCA and feel as each tire bump goes over it.
Hitting the lower control arm is what happened too me. If it's just on one side that u rub, check if the axle is centered. Mine wasn't and they didn't center as part of an alignment. After I centered the axle, the rubbing stopped.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:07 PM   #318
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They said it was dead center when the shop did a follow up bolt check visit and I mentioned it. One washer lightened the run a little. It's not banging, just each piece of tire tread goes by while rubbing and makes vibration depending on speed, usually very slow turning into driveway since road curves up to it. There is a small mark on the LCA I can send a pic of when I get home where it rubs.
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:47 PM   #319
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Front right LCA
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:45 PM   #320
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I just purchased RK 2.5 max travel along with grade 8 bolts. does the front RK lowers and front RK trackbars need to be drilled out to fit the grade 8 bolts?
No, drilling is not required for the 9/16" bolt upgrade.
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:49 PM   #321
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No, drilling is not required for the 9/16" bolt upgrade.
I just received my x factor kit and the 9/16" bolt kit only fits nicely in the Krawler joints. The bushing sleeves the do not and would need drilled out
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:16 AM   #322
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They said it was dead center when the shop did a follow up bolt check visit and I mentioned it. One washer lightened the run a little. It's not banging, just each piece of tire tread goes by while rubbing and makes vibration depending on speed, usually very slow turning into driveway since road curves up to it. There is a small mark on the LCA I can send a pic of when I get home where it rubs.
Check yourself. Mine was off 1/2 an inch and that was enough to cause the rubbing. Just take a level, hold against the fender and the tire. Measure the distance to the edge of the tire. Both sides should be the same distance.
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:13 AM   #323
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Check yourself. Mine was off 1/2 an inch and that was enough to cause the rubbing. Just take a level, hold against the fender and the tire. Measure the distance to the edge of the tire. Both sides should be the same distance.
The body is a poor place to measure axle center.
Measure from the coil perch to a mold line or tread path on the tire.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:06 AM   #324
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The body is a poor place to measure axle center.
Measure from the coil perch to a mold line or tread path on the tire.
Good point!

But yes, if you are rubbing on what arm and not the other, then your front axle is not centered.

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Old 02-26-2015, 04:17 PM   #325
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If I can determine this and adjust myself, will a new alignment need to be done?
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:31 PM   #326
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If I can determine this and adjust myself, will a new alignment need to be done?
Nope, no alignment needed. If it's off center the side the tire is rubbing on should be the biggest distance.
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:36 PM   #327
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awesome, if i can fix this over the weekend myself, and not need to align or adjust anything else, that will hold me off until i can have a shop recheck it all. Sucks that shops only work m-f, they are open Saturday but don't do any service. I travel M-F almost every week so its hard. Definitely get it all checked out before jeep beach.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:55 PM   #328
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What's the size of the jam nut on the front trackbar adjustment? Bracket side. I'm going to have to go get a very large wrench this weekend. Should a giant crescent suffice or do I need an extra large open ended wench? Are these the 200-300 ft/lb ones suggested in the manual?
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:09 AM   #329
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What's the size of the jam nut on the front trackbar adjustment? Bracket side. I'm going to have to go get a very large wrench this weekend. Should a giant crescent suffice or do I need an extra large open ended wench? Are these the 200-300 ft/lb ones suggested in the manual?
I have a set of wrenches that I originally installed my lift with when I added the draglink I needed an even bigger one. Found this at Harbor freight.

24" Adjustable Wrench

This is the original set I bought for doing my lift. Forget which two I used.

TEKTON 1955 Jumbo Combination Wrench Set, 4-Piece - Craftsman Jumbo Wrenches - Amazon.com
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:07 AM   #330
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1 more question, i swear. I measured from the same spot on the inside of both tires to the top of the spring perch. Passenger side is 3 1/4" and the drivers is about 4". So much for it being "dead center" I am going to go pick up that 24" adjustable from harbor freight. I know you said no alignment is needed. How about steering, will it still be dead center and have the wheel centered? I just want to make sure the trackbar is the only think i have to adjust and then be done with it. Thanks.

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