Rock Krawler Front LCA Install Questions - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 12-14-2011, 04:54 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Rock Krawler Front LCA Install Questions

Just received my front LCA's from Rock Krawler. I plan to put them in over the next day or so. Does anyone have any helpful hints on getting these in? They look straight forward, as I set the recommended length, lactate the jam nut, and install. Do I need to have the vehicle jacked up in order to install, or can I get in just as easy without? I plan to get an alignment at Goodyear once I have these completed. Will they check the control arms during the alignment or is that something they don't usually mess with?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks.

__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 06:40 PM   #2
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
From a JKF thread:

You can do the install with your jeep on the ground:


1. place a floor jack under the pinion of your front axle - raise it up so that it's just holding it up.
2. starting on the driver side, remove control arm nut at the axle using a 21mm socket and wrench.
3. if the bolt does not slide out by hand with ease, slowly raise your jack just a bit until the bind is released. if you go too far, you will need to lower it back down. when you have it just right, the bolt will come out easily.
4. remove the control arm nut and bolt at the frame end using a 21mm socket and wrench.
5. leaving your jack exactly where it is, repeat steps 1-4 on the passenger side. again, raise and or lower your jack as needed to pull the bolt out from your axle mount.
6. set both your new adjustable control arms to 23" eye to eye. The 23" measurement should be straight across. factory is 22-5/8" and so you're just making your new arms about 3/8" longer.
7. loosely install your new driver side control arm onto the frame mount using the factory hardware
8. lower your jack as needed until you can align the mounting hole with that of your new lower control arm. secure it in place with the factory hardware.
9. repeat steps 7-8
10. tighten all your nuts and bolts to 125-130 ft. lbs. of torque.



After all this is done you'll need an alignment...

__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 06:43 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
From a JKF thread:

You can do the install with your jeep on the ground:


1. place a floor jack under the pinion of your front axle - raise it up so that it's just holding it up.
2. starting on the driver side, remove control arm nut at the axle using a 21mm socket and wrench.
3. if the bolt does not slide out by hand with ease, slowly raise your jack just a bit until the bind is released. if you go too far, you will need to lower it back down. when you have it just right, the bolt will come out easily.
4. remove the control arm nut and bolt at the frame end using a 21mm socket and wrench.
5. leaving your jack exactly where it is, repeat steps 1-4 on the passenger side. again, raise and or lower your jack as needed to pull the bolt out from your axle mount.
6. set both your new adjustable control arms to 23" eye to eye. The 23" measurement should be straight across. factory is 22-5/8" and so you're just making your new arms about 3/8" longer.
7. loosely install your new driver side control arm onto the frame mount using the factory hardware
8. lower your jack as needed until you can align the mounting hole with that of your new lower control arm. secure it in place with the factory hardware.
9. repeat steps 7-8
10. tighten all your nuts and bolts to 125-130 ft. lbs. of torque.



After all this is done you'll need an alignment...
You are the man kbw! Exactly what I needed. Thanks a million.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 06:48 PM   #4
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
You are the man kbw! Exactly what I needed. Thanks a million.

Be aware...there may be subtle differences. I'm finding that out since I started installing my lift this a.m. Full Traction directions, including pics, have not meshed with the reality a couple of times on my '12.

But what I sent you shouldn't have changed all that much from what you'll encounter. Forgot to check your profile...you in a '12?


EDIT: Never mind, just checked. You got an '11, so the 23" ca measurement is good. Have fun.
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 07:56 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Thanks again. One other question. When I'm setting the proper length on one of the arms, 23" from eye to eye, one side is not completely aligned properly to go into the control arm bracket, as its about 1/4-1/2 a turn off. If I have to turn it 1/4 turn to line up, is that going to have an effect on anything, as it will not be perfectly 23 inches.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 08:00 PM   #6
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
I don't think it'll hurt anything...Ideally, though, they should match as closely as possible. Try screwing the one that needs the 1/4 turn all the way closed, then unscrewing again and see if it lines up better. If you haven't already.

If that doesn't work, try screwing both closed, and starting over. After that, if you gotta live w/a quarter turn, I really don't think it's gonna hurt anything too badly. I'm just anal that way.
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 08:04 PM   #7
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
On second thought: If you can't get them to match, install them for now, then call TF customer support in the a.m. and ask em how much it really matters. I've heard they're cust supt is pretty awesome...
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 08:42 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Thanks. I did speak to them today, and they said to do a trial run, put them in without bolting up, and adjusting as necessary. They also said that if the alignment comes back 'out of spec', to give them a call and they would tell me how much to adjust. I'd rather not deal with it when already bolted and torqued, as you can't really get to the jam nuts that easily while mounted.

I haven't tried screwing them back together and starting over again, but will. Seems odd that they don't completely line up together, but it might just be the way I did it the first time around.

By the way, when you are jacking up under the pinion, I'm assuming you mean the area just behind the front differential correct?
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 09:00 PM   #9
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
Thanks. I did speak to them today, and they said to do a trial run, put them in without bolting up, and adjusting as necessary. They also said that if the alignment comes back 'out of spec', to give them a call and they would tell me how much to adjust. I'd rather not deal with it when already bolted and torqued, as you can't really get to the jam nuts that easily while mounted.

I haven't tried screwing them back together and starting over again, but will. Seems odd that they don't completely line up together, but it might just be the way I did it the first time around.

By the way, when you are jacking up under the pinion, I'm assuming you mean the area just behind the front differential correct?
It does seem strange that they wouldn't line up pretty close to perfectly. That's why I added the post about calling the guys @ TF. Just to be safe.

And yes, the pinion is the area behind the front diff that joins with the ds. If you look under your Jeep you'll see about a...8-inch?...area that you can jack on before you reach the ds. You don't really wanna jack it up like you're changing a tire. Just get it to where the jack is holding it's weight, more or less, then adjust as necessary to get the bolts outta the ca's. It won't HURT anything to go a little high, but it's easier to start low, and jack up...make sense?
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 09:35 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
It does seem strange that they wouldn't line up pretty close to perfectly. That's why I added the post about calling the guys @ TF. Just to be safe.

And yes, the pinion is the area behind the front diff that joins with the ds. If you look under your Jeep you'll see about a...8-inch?...area that you can jack on before you reach the ds. You don't really wanna jack it up like you're changing a tire. Just get it to where the jack is holding it's weight, more or less, then adjust as necessary to get the bolts outta the ca's. It won't HURT anything to go a little high, but it's easier to start low, and jack up...make sense?
Yep, makes perfect sense. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes. Just curious, what is the likely outcome if someone tries to change out the control arms without axle support from the jack? Could the axle simply drop out or would the holes simply not line up, or all the above?
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-14-2011, 10:31 PM   #11
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
Yep, makes perfect sense. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes. Just curious, what is the likely outcome if someone tries to change out the control arms without axle support from the jack? Could the axle simply drop out or would the holes simply not line up, or all the above?
There's other stuff attached...trackbar, shocks, etc. But I bet it'd be a beast getting the bolts outta the ca's, and getting the new ones in would probably be worse.

Here's the way I left mine this evening...

Attachment 83253
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-15-2011, 08:44 AM   #12
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
That lift would sure come in handy installed in my garage!!
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-15-2011, 09:21 AM   #13
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
No doubt! Mine too...lack of snow here has really slowed things up for the tire shop, so they're letting me do my lift there. Pretty sweet!
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 06:42 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
That is very sweet. Definitely makes an install much easier. One last question. When you were adjusting your control arms and locking down the jam nut, how did you hold the control arm to get the most torque on the nut. I was thinking about getting my work table out and going to work on it there, as I had to do somewhat of the same thing on my Harley forks, but was curious to see how you did it. Thanks again.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 08:06 AM   #15
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Hit a little bit of a snag yesterday, so I haven't gotten to that point, yet. I've already installed the ca's, front and rear, but won't torque everything till I get the ds in, etc.

Since I'm using a friend's garage, I've got the benefit of impact wrenches, etc. Of course, once the Jeep's back on the ground I'll tighten the trackbar and torque everything up by hand. My ca's aren't pre-set to a certain length; I'll have to adjust them to get the proper caster once I'm done with the entire lift install.
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 10:11 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
I was able to screw the LCA's back down and out again to get the perfect adjusted length, and they are both facing the correct direction. I plan to do a trial run on the arms before securing to ensure that they fit correctly, but i don't believe that the jam nut will be easily accessible once installed, so it will have to be adjusted and torqued with loctite correctly before the final installation. I guess there is no torque spec on the nut because you have to use an adjustable to get to it.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 10:19 AM   #17
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,916
I didn't set my adj nut till after install. and I don't use loctite anyway-


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
I was able to screw the LCA's back down and out again to get the perfect adjusted length, and they are both facing the correct direction. I plan to do a trial run on the arms before securing to ensure that they fit correctly, but i don't believe that the jam nut will be easily accessible once installed, so it will have to be adjusted and torqued with loctite correctly before the final installation. I guess there is no torque spec on the nut because you have to use an adjustable to get to it.
You may have to, if your LCAs aren't greasable, but mine are and they are so free, that there's no stress on the locknut, so-it's moot !

If they do have ZIRKs, make sure that they are positioned at 12.00 O'clock, for safety !

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 10:37 AM   #18
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: s/e texas
Posts: 87
for reference sake i installed my rk LCAs this past week. both measured up right on when adjusting them for my lift's specs.
damon.l is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 10:56 AM   #19
MTH
Jeeper
 
MTH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 8,553
Query: How do you know how long to set the LCAs? It obviously must vary on lift height. Is there a chart or something that I'm unaware of?
__________________
Mike
2010 JKU "Mountain" Edition
TeraFlex 2.5" Coil Lift : Old Man Emu Nitrocharger Shocks : 33x12.5R15 Goodyear DuraTracs : 15x8 Black Rock 909s : Other Stuff . . .
MTH is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 11:07 AM   #20
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,916
The generally accepted LCA length for lifted (2.5") or less--is 23" from bolt ctr/ctr and that USUALLY results in 5/6°+ caster--


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Query: How do you know how long to set the LCAs? It obviously must vary on lift height. Is there a chart or something that I'm unaware of?
Mine is 6°+ caster and the steering/handling is 100% better than it was with the STOCK LCAs !!

Smokemifyougotem

JIMBO
__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 02:39 PM   #21
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Took mine out for a test drive an hour ago, and the steering feels MUCH better than stock. Still got some minor adjusting to do, but wow...
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 03:38 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Query: How do you know how long to set the LCAs? It obviously must vary on lift height. Is there a chart or something that I'm unaware of?
RK instructions say 23 1/8". I bought a new adjustable today so I could get started and it's not big enough... My LCA's are not greasable, and say to use the loctite on the jam nut, which makes it a little tricky as that stuff sets in 10 minutes.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 03:39 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by damon.l View Post
for reference sake i installed my rk LCAs this past week. both measured up right on when adjusting them for my lift's specs.
Were you able to fine tune and wrench the jam nut after you had them loosely bolted in?
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 03:41 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
Took mine out for a test drive an hour ago, and the steering feels MUCH better than stock. Still got some minor adjusting to do, but wow...
Did you use loctite on your jam nuts?
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 04:43 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: s/e texas
Posts: 87
i didnt have a big enough crecent wrench to tighten them once installed, and after looking at them once installed its gonna be a booger i think. i had to use a pipe wrench and my bare hands to get it tight before i installed them. next week when im home from work im going to go find a good crecent and tighten everything down. and i didnt use any locktite as i knew i was going to have to retighten anyways.
damon.l is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 05:57 PM   #26
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
Did you use loctite on your jam nuts?
Nope. Just anti-seize so they won't lock up...no loctite for me. Some people use it, but I'd rather just check the torque settings on my stuff every so often. If something is coming loose regularly, I might use some of the blue loctite.

I'm not really sure why your install would call for the red. Seems like that kinda defeats the purpose of an ADJUSTABLE control arm.

I would perhaps put a call into RK, or shoot them an e-mail, asking if you really need to use red loctite.
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 09:01 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
Nope. Just anti-seize so they won't lock up...no loctite for me. Some people use it, but I'd rather just check the torque settings on my stuff every so often. If something is coming loose regularly, I might use some of the blue loctite.

I'm not really sure why your install would call for the red. Seems like that kinda defeats the purpose of an ADJUSTABLE control arm.

I would perhaps put a call into RK, or shoot them an e-mail, asking if you really need to use red loctite.
They ask for red loctite on the jam nut of their adjustable track bar as well. My guess is that its supposed to be adjustable to the correct length, then you don't want it to move. A little heat will break up the red, so not a big deal, but gives a little piece of mind. Spidertrax also provides the red loctite for its lugs. I use blue all the time on my Harley, but have little use for the red.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 09:22 PM   #28
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
They ask for red loctite on the jam nut of their adjustable track bar as well. My guess is that its supposed to be adjustable to the correct length, then you don't want it to move. A little heat will break up the red, so not a big deal, but gives a little piece of mind. Spidertrax also provides the red loctite for its lugs. I use blue all the time on my Harley, but have little use for the red.
I guess they have a reason for wanting you to use the red loctite. Personally, I would not. The adj tb's only real function over the stock tb is it's ability to center your axle. The adj ca's are for setting caster after you add a lift.

Not all Jeeps (even of the same model year) are gonna be exactly alike. One might drive well at +6 caster, another at +4.

It seems to me that if you put red loctite on your ca's and tb's, you may not be able to both install em and then adjust em the way you want before they freeze up. I would just torque em down to 125 ft-lbs.

However, if you want to use the red loctite, then install them, set your caster with the LCA's, center your axle with the tb, mark the threads with a sharpie, pull em out and back the nuts off to expose some thread, apply the red loctite, re-install and then lock em down to 125 again.

Seems kinda needlessly redundant, but that's how I'd do it if I was gonna use the red stuff...just to make certain that I had everything adjusted the way I wanted it before locking it all down.

I can understand the red loctite for the Spidertrax wheel spacers...
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 09:59 PM   #29
Jeeper
 
Cv2065's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
I guess they have a reason for wanting you to use the red loctite. Personally, I would not. The adj tb's only real function over the stock tb is it's ability to center your axle. The adj ca's are for setting caster after you add a lift.

Not all Jeeps (even of the same model year) are gonna be exactly alike. One might drive well at +6 caster, another at +4.

It seems to me that if you put red loctite on your ca's and tb's, you may not be able to both install em and then adjust em the way you want before they freeze up. I would just torque em down to 125 ft-lbs.

However, if you want to use the red loctite, then install them, set your caster with the LCA's, center your axle with the tb, mark the threads with a sharpie, pull em out and back the nuts off to expose some thread, apply the red loctite, re-install and then lock em down to 125 again.

Seems kinda needlessly redundant, but that's how I'd do it if I was gonna use the red stuff...just to make certain that I had everything adjusted the way I wanted it before locking it all down.

I can understand the red loctite for the Spidertrax wheel spacers...

The TB was done a couple of weeks ago, and it's virtually perfect, about 1/8" off at the most. i was going to take the old ones off, and fit the new ones while loosely bolting on. I've got both set at a perfect 23 1/8" as RK suggests in their manual. Once I've got the axle adjusted to where the OEM hardware easily bolts them in, I'll take off, use the red loctite, wrench the jam nut, bolt back on and torque down. The only issue when the CA's are on, is that you can't really get to the jam nut, so the final lockdown on the jam nut has to be done before I bolt it on.

Two final questions. How did you end up wrenching your jam nut to get it tight? Also, my RK CA's have a pivotal joint on one end where it bolts onto the axle. One side of the pivot is longer than the other. How do I know which side goes to which side? RK does not say in the manual unfortunately.
__________________
RK 2.5 Stock Mod with LCAs - Bilstein 5100's - Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 - Spidertracs 1.5 - AEV Premium Bumper and Hood - Amp Research Power Steps
Cv2065 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-16-2011, 10:22 PM   #30
Jeeper
 
JIMBOX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9,916
I used a BFH Cresent Wrench to lock them after install !!


Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
The generally accepted LCA length for lifted (2.5") or less--is 23" from bolt ctr/ctr and that USUALLY results in 5/6°+ caster--




Mine is 6°+ caster and the steering/handling is 100% better than it was with the STOCK LCAs !!

Smokemifyougotem

JIMBO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cv2065 View Post
The TB was done a couple of weeks ago, and it's virtually perfect, about 1/8" off at the most. i was going to take the old ones off, and fit the new ones while loosely bolting on. I've got both set at a perfect 23 1/8" as RK suggests in their manual. Once I've got the axle adjusted to where the OEM hardware easily bolts them in, I'll take off, use the red loctite, wrench the jam nut, bolt back on and torque down. The only issue when the CA's are on, is that you can't really get to the jam nut, so the final lockdown on the jam nut has to be done before I bolt it on.

Two final questions. How did you end up wrenching your jam nut to get it tight? Also, my RK CA's have a pivotal joint on one end where it bolts onto the axle. One side of the pivot is longer than the other. How do I know which side goes to which side? RK does not say in the manual unfortunately.
No locktite, I have greasable spherical joints, so there's no pressure on the jam-nut !!

JIMBO

__________________
"ya gotta have class"
JIMBOX is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
front and rear 4.88 gears w/ install kits Trad YJ Tech Forum 2 09-27-2011 12:47 PM
NJ: JK 2dr Pro Comp 2.5" Lift MX-6, ProComp Steering Stabilizer, Rock Krawler Track Bar ndrugby Classifieds Archive 3 08-29-2011 01:03 PM
Rebel Offroad: Rock Krawler 3.5 Max w/ Rock Hard skids on Jeep JK 2-door REBEL OFF ROAD JK General Discussion Forum 2 06-28-2011 10:02 AM
Lift Install Questions Adventurous TJ General Discussion Forum 14 03-27-2007 05:54 AM



» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:34 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC